Summary:
- Biked from Lake Bodensee (Konstanz) to Fussen and then
joined the Via Claudia Augusta bike path over Fern Pass into Austria.
- Passed through Innsbruck (Austria) and over Brenner Pass
into Northern Italy.
- Spent a few days in the Dolomites – a UNESCO World Heritage
Park, leaving from Brixen over Gardena Grodner Joch and Valparola passes, descending into Cortina d'Ampezzo.
- Cycled down through Belluno, Lago di Croce, Vittorio and Mogliano
- Celebrated crossing 2000kms of riding and are currently just
outside of Venice, back on the coast for the first time since the start of our
time in The Netherlands.
What a journey the last week has been! It has included our biggest
ascents and descents, some spectacular scenery, great people and of course,
good food! Whenever you see the words “CROSSING THE ALPS”, you need to imagine
these being said in a very excitable, enthusiastic, adventuresome way, which could
include feelings of exultation but also despair!
We were enjoying Germany so much we continued on through to
Fussen, a town at the foot of the Bavarian Alps, famous for two huge castles
and the best serving of “Pork Knuckle” within the Bavarian region - a delicacy
we attempted to try but the only place open on a Sunday night had none left!
Gutted! It was with much anticipation that we set off from here to CROSS THE
ALPS, following the Via Claudia Augusta, the earliest trade route through the
mountains to Austria.
|
For those who love a bit of context! |
|
Heading off from Fussen into Austria, towards Fern Pass - the first big climb. |
** A note about cycle paths – we have a love/hate
relationship with them. While offering great scenery and some time away from
traffic, they almost always detour through every village and past every church
steeple – fun for a while but not so awesome if you are trying to get from
point A to B. Roads are often graded perfectly for cycling, while cycle paths
often seem to be built by people who don’t actually ride bikes – with steep
ascents sending you frantically changing gears just to make it to the top of
every small, unnecessary rise in the path! We have sometimes given up on them
and found our way back to the road for some fast kilometres and some kinder
gradients!
The climb to Fernpass on the Via Augusta started well, then
turned steep and gravelly so we headed for the road. This worked well until we
came to a sign with a picture of a bicycle, tractor and old fashioned car. It
said something underneath – perhaps “please look out for cyclists, farmers and
old-car enthusiasts…..”, however a few km later we realised it probably
actually said “PROHIBITED!!!” as a motorcyclist zoomed past us wagging his
finger. We weren’t sure why until around the next corner the road started
descending, big walls appeared and the dark mouth of a tunnel appeared…..a good
lesson for our first day in Austria. We turned back, found the cycle path and
enjoyed the scenic tour through the Austrian countryside – a delightful mixture
of green pastures, cute houses and stunning mountain backdrops!
|
A more relaxing tunnel experience than the one mentioined! |
The last few kms were back on a steep gravel road which we
slowly chugged up (hard work on a fully loaded bike, but expected when CROSSING
THE ALPS!!!), but we were rewarded when we found a path from the top which rejoined
the road – an opportunity we took with great enthusiasm – 30km of fast, smooth
downhill in the evening light. The first of many fun descents on this mountain
crossing journey!!
|
Thank God! An old coin box to deposit your thanks to the gods for safe travel over Fern Pass! |
From Nassereith we left the Via Claudia and headed east
along the Inns valley to Telfs and Innsbruck, an awesome town surrounded by
mountains on all sides. This is serious mountain country (we are, after all,
CROSSING THE ALPS!!). Everyone here skis, climbs, goes hiking and wanders round
in outdoor gear. I was particularly impressed by one guy I saw riding his bike
in his ski boots through town, complete with ski’s and poles stashed expertly
along his frame!!
|
A bit more context...! |
From Innsbruck it was up and over Brenner Pass, the next big
push in CROSSING THE ALPS! The climb started immediately out of Innsbruck, but
we were biking on the old road, looking up at the (new?...newer) autoban which
meant we had little traffic. This is the main goods route from Italy to Austria
and the highway just seemed packed with trucks. Even the trains were pulled
carriages and carriages of trucks! 40km uphill (again, completed with
determined enthusiasm as we are CROSSING THE ALPS!) to the top of Brenner Pass –
an alpine pass, complete with a HUGE outdoor retail outlet centre. Just what
every alpine pass should have!!! (not!) ** see below for more on Brenner Pass.
From Brenner, we again had a sweet downhill (another
advantage of CROSSING THE ALPS) to Brixen, 50kms down the valley from the
border. This valley boasts a river, railway line, old road, autoban and cycle
path – often all crossing above and beneath each other, with the autoban being
almost entirely built off the ground! An impressive engineering feat – one that
is no doubt made easier by the vast numbers of people and goods which travel
along it daily.
|
This valley knows some infrastructure! |
Great to be in Italy – the first impressions was that we had
indeed CROSSED THE ALPS! It’s warmer here, people drink wine at lunchtime, there
was a jazz clarinettist in our village as well as many pizzarias and cafes.
Very cool.
Here we met Moritz and Nadja, an amazing couple who were
very generous to us – hosting us, feeding us and even setting us up with their
friends and further accommodation up the road which we so appreciated! We
really enjoyed a few days of good socialising, resting and route-planning.
|
Great fun hanging out with Moritz, Nadja and Nevis in Brixen. |
Our CROSSING THE ALPS adventure continued into the Dolomites
– a UNESCO World Heritage Site which we were anticipating with great excitement!
Sure enough, it provided a few days of FANTASTIC riding – our biggest day
ascending from 1400m to 2100m twice over as we passed through the La Gardina
area. Very cool riding, despite the second pass being covered in mist and fog,
complete with hail, rain and a wind chill temperature of well below zero
(seemingly appropriate for CROSSING THE ALPS!).
|
The first of the Dolomite mountains to appear... |
|
Biking towards Gardner Joch Pass, 2141m |
|
Ohhhhhhh, yea!!!! |
|
Heading towards Valparola Pass, 2168m |
|
Brrr. Made it. |
Our descent into warmer climes has seen us through beautiful
valleys, past mountain lakes and onto the plains of Northern Italy which are
covered in vineyards and small towns.
|
On the way to Vittorio from Lago di S.Croce |
We stopped biking 15km outside of Venice
and jumped on the train, and then a ferry to our current spot – Lido, an island
just off the coast of Venice. It has been a highlight to wander aimlessly
through the alleyways, people watch on the side of the Grand Canal and just
take in the atmosphere of such a different city!
|
Gondala boats along the Grande Canal |
|
Late afternoon - Venice |
**Brenner Pass and Refugees: Brenner Pass was (still is) the border between Austria and Italy. The only people who lived and worked here were army officials who managed the border, but as both countries opened their borders in line with the EU the town emptied out of jobs available (hence the shopping centre to bring back some income!). They are currently building a huge refugee holding centre here as from May, the border will again be controlled, the first time in 30 years. As the main “Balkans” route for refugees is closed, Italy is anticipating a huge influx of people making the treacherous crossing from Libya to Italy and then up Brenner Pass and into Austria. Austria will only accept a certain number of refugees each day so work is being undertaken to ensure there is somewhere for the overflow of refugees to stay.
I find it incredible that people will make this journey, hundreds of kilometres, by foot or however they can, with little food, money and resources available to them. It is really interesting being in this part of Europe at this time as the refugee crises is a very real part of life here. Outside most supermarkets we have seen people asking for money, which seems like a hard way to get settled and sorted in a new country (although of course, many won’t be getting settled and sorted in these places and are maybe just passing through also). I have been pondering how I should respond to them in a way which is helpful, respectful and appropriate?!
|
Our journey through Italy, up to now. From here we head east towards Slovenia and Croatia. |
Loving your blog Andy and miri!Praying for safety as you bike and for fantastic experiences. Love bron and adam
ReplyDeleteThanks Bron & Adam! A&M
DeleteLoving your blog Andy and miri!Praying for safety as you bike and for fantastic experiences. Love bron and adam
ReplyDeleteFantastic read Miri and Andy. Very interesting journey indeed.
ReplyDeleteLoving the maps, dolomites and more maps! What a great time, wow.
ReplyDeleteFantastic to read Miri & Andy. some idyllic places, made all the more beautfiul for you I'm sure because of the hard yakka of getting there. :)
ReplyDelete