tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9506816942014098782024-03-13T03:20:03.450-07:00Travellin' OnAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-16136535315877881862016-12-28T22:45:00.000-08:002016-12-28T22:49:01.033-08:00Home Contrasts - The Final Blog<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Contrasts</span></b><br />
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A mish-mash of wedding procession with their own brass band, cars, motorbikes and pedestrians in a small street in Kathmandu</div>
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It was already dark at 5:50pm on this Friday near-winter evening in Kathmandu, as I dodged another motorbike that had parked directly in front of me. Miri and I were mid conversation, which, was immediately halted & eventually given up on. We were headed for the last time to our favourite local MoMo restaurant for our 50 rupee veg steamed momo’s with the super delicious mild chili sauce.<br />
It is dusty. Although the occasional muddy patch from the daily water truck residue squelches upwards around our sandals. <br />
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There are no footpaths and it is rush hour, so we constantly weave in and out of cars and motorbikes and other pedestrians and small shops that overflow out onto the road edges, until we emerge into the tiny Fast Food restaurant. In the corner, their son does his homework from the day. The stainless steel Momo steamer tins squelch small bursts of escaping steam in the corner while the main cook works up another batch of egg-veg chowmein in his blackened Wok. Namaste! Tik Cha? (Hello, Good?)<br />
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5 days later. <br />
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It was very light on this Thursday evening, as we biked into the Hornby Mall carpark in Christchurch. There was the smell of freshly cut grass in the air. The roads are wide, very wide. There are many, many large cars. No scooters, no bikes, no motorbikes. It's really quiet. The footpaths are empty. Conversations between us are easy. We grab our paniers bags and head inside to Pac N Save to get some dinner and breakfast supplies for the evening. We stood for a long time in the Breakfast Cereal aisle. Staring up & along it, faced with so many different options, brightly stacking the shelves.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freaking out in the cereal aisle!</td></tr>
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<u><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Quick Summary:</b></span></u><br />
- After Tansen we spent two weeks linking in with Reed Nepal & the Australian Himalayan Foundation in Kathmandu for the start of their teacher training programme<br />
- Began the journey home on the 5th of December for Bangkok, where we picked up our bikes & other cycling luggage (Thanks Preteep!!!)<br />
- Arrived home 11th of December for a few short days in CHCH before heading up to Nelson to see Andy’s family & then surprise Miri’s family for a Christmas holiday in the Sounds (they thought we were coming home mid Jan)<br />
- Next challenge - to find somewhere to live for the year in CHCH :-)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bangkok airport - en route to home and reunited with the bikes</td></tr>
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Here’s a few first impressions since we arrived back, challenges we’ve been left with from the journey and final pics from Nepal, Thailand and back in NZ. We have so much to be thankful for, so this blog wouldn’t be complete without a moment to pause & be thankful….<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />First Impressions</span></b><br />
• <b>Clean water</b> – something we often take for granted until we don’t have it anymore. Clean drinking water is non-existent in most of the world, and, if we lag into complacency it could be for us here in NZ too.<br />
• <b>Abundance</b> - perusing the supermarket shelves, we’ve had to adjust from just one type of muesli, the same across all of Nepal to about 50 different types across the shelves. Pantry’s are filled with so much variety. We have much. Others often function off far less choice.<br />
• <b>Cars</b> – We have a lot of cars in NZ compared to Asia<br />
• <b>Big, wide empty footpaths & wide streets</b> – compared to a lot of walking on the streets in Asia<br />
• <b>Lots more glass around</b> – In Europe they have great incentives to recycle glass bottles & perhaps better drinking habits in general. Cycling in NZ – heaps of glass on the road!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to Christmas in Christchurch, NZ</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Initial reflections the journey has left for us:</span></b><br />
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We don’t feel like we’ve had much of a chance to reflect, but here’s a few initial comments/challenges…<br />
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• <b>Bike more</b> – the first few days home we haven’t had a car, so it’s been a good incentive to set up our trusty steeds again, put on the paniers & navigate CHCH by bike. Our vision is to bike wherever possible…<br />
• <b>Waste less</b> – We were amazed at the lack of packaging people used in some places of India & Nepal – leaf. <br />
• <b>Think outside the square</b> – The NZ way of doing things isn’t always the only or best way of doing things<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anakiwa with the Wood fam</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Thanks</b></span><br />
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We can’t say thankyou enough to the family & friends who have supported us, encouraged us and will continue to do so as we transition back to a more traditional working life back in NZ.<br />
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• Thanks to all our incredible official & unofficial Warm Showers hosts, some of whom took us in at a whim, some distant relatives, some friends of friends, others who responded to our online requests, old neighbours, friends of family. So, so appreciated – you made our trip!<br />
• To those who helped with logistics, transported packs to India & home from Nepal. <br />
• To those who were amazingly encouraging, who read these blogs, who chose to comment, who emailed us. You blew us away & gave us an incredible lift<br />
• To those strangers who were exceedingly generous on the road, who gave with no expectation of ever getting anything in return. Wow! Bottles of water, raisins, milk, cheese<br />
• To those people who inspired and shared their journeys with us - thank you<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sounds ... what a contrast!</td></tr>
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So, now we continue our journey here in NZ, left with the lessons, enduring images and reflections that will linger in the background, often surpassed by pressing realities. Our hope is that they will help to shape our life values, objectives and vision. We feel like we haven’t really had a chance to process things in NZ so far, being consumed by immediate needs (mostly accommodation) and people/family time.<br />
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Na reira, kia ora mo tau tautoko ki a matou hikoi nui<br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(So, thankyou for your support during our long journey)</span></i></div>
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Arohanui from Te Kainga in Queen Charlotte Sound…</div>
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Andy and Miri</div>
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Photo Supplement</h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making the most of an Outward Bound Christmas - letting go of our excuses on the high ropes course!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicky the Christmas legend sorting the tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a sail on Conquest</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer! Slacklining, food, babies and family!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aotearoa - love it!!</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-60498774740523022642016-11-24T04:31:00.001-08:002016-11-27T05:53:34.298-08:00Nepal - The Land of the Mountains<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Grand Summary:</b></div>
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<li>A few days in Kathmandu in the tourist hub of Thamel getting sorted and rearranging our transport & route (so we could work in a job interview in a place with reception in 5 days time)</li>
<li>10-11 hour jeep ride from Kathmandu to Phaplu</li>
<li>28 Days trekking from Phaplu return on the 3 Passes Circuit in the Khumbu Valley beneath incredible peaks like Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nhuptse, Cho Oyu and Everest</li>
<li>Currently relaxing in Tansen, (west of Kathmandu) staying with a friend working as a doctor in a hospital here.</li>
<li>Next: Back to Kathmandu, where Miriam will be with the Himalayan Foundation for a short time assisting with the Himalayan Trust/REED Nepal teacher training programme before we head back to NZ.</li>
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It's been a truly incredible 28 days amidst the Mighty Mountains of Nepal! </div>
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28 days of near perfect weather, every day. </div>
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28 days of expensive Dahl Baht for lunch & egg veg noodles for dinner every day.</div>
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28 days of not showering or shaving.</div>
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28 days of pulling on the boots and stinky socks and packs every morning. </div>
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28 days of attempting, but mostly failing, to avoid trains of yaks, mules and people.</div>
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28 days of experiencing and appreciating different levels of oxygen.</div>
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28 days of theoretically getting fitter, but seemingly feeling less and less fit with the increasing altitude.</div>
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28 days of trying to speak enough Nepali to be able to eat in the local teahouses (as opposed to tourist lodges), where food was better and much cheaper.</div>
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28 days of journeying through incredible beautiful, awe inspiring, places.</div>
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On our days off, as a break from walking, just for a change, we usually climbed 600m up a nearby peak for the view or to help acclimatise. Ahh, but what a real privilege being able to spend this time here coming towards the end of our journey! Hamro Nepal derri man parcha! (We really like Nepal!).</div>
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In a couple of weeks we'll aim to post another blog with some reflections on Nepal and our time here in general. But, without further ado, we'd like to share some of these Mountain spots with you. The photos really don't even come close to doing it justice. For you, though, this is a WIN! You'll save on the necessary slow days acclimatising to the high altitudes, the conscious effort required for the simple acts of breathing, and the painfully slow uphill walking with excessive amounts of stops required to do a distance that would normally be straight forward. (Yes, we learnt that altitude is definitely a force to contend with).</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photographic Journey from Kathmandu to the Khumbu</span></h2>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Kathmandu</span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0sabhCFh0hJ7U-gvEI_tog1jXAc7ed20OMaFJZgjjvhFflYqClrwy59aeG_PXAR3K3A1GKRnU1qcltRh043ySspJRadujMjCxEudiL_3xJxwxboJJAUlYsvnSJ4HVIMZJNwoQVwUpV53/s1600/IMG_3312+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0sabhCFh0hJ7U-gvEI_tog1jXAc7ed20OMaFJZgjjvhFflYqClrwy59aeG_PXAR3K3A1GKRnU1qcltRh043ySspJRadujMjCxEudiL_3xJxwxboJJAUlYsvnSJ4HVIMZJNwoQVwUpV53/s640/IMG_3312+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking over the sea of rooftops from Thamel</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bustling streets</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Journey to the Khumbu</span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The journey in.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMdXxmtLnu1phvD9q81x5mWgGgfWwiPBW7Sm4HMU4h0pHuYi330jk4E0Y_v_IFWXCklOarwNQWeN5SP3bo4JQMWUlrmlaPsqnw2NwcpeB-AfhJYgpsbGd6KbNzKvwPQlolTdfa-mhrshf/s1600/IMG_3331b+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMdXxmtLnu1phvD9q81x5mWgGgfWwiPBW7Sm4HMU4h0pHuYi330jk4E0Y_v_IFWXCklOarwNQWeN5SP3bo4JQMWUlrmlaPsqnw2NwcpeB-AfhJYgpsbGd6KbNzKvwPQlolTdfa-mhrshf/s640/IMG_3331b+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite looking low-key - 10 hours in this jeep was FAR too long for Miri!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A donkey train leaving Phaplu, loaded with supplies</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters were always impressive...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The monastery at Junbesi village - a colourful place!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The approach to Nunthala - our second night from Phaplu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back on Kharikhola</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The terraced fields of Bupsa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancient Tibetan inscriptions along Mani walls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7wOY9w09DY1c3K4ACg9UenDMdFOVIlQOlf-JOlDAj6cTlqCRoC_0HedZQxkiJCN9fvb5lUtQTZqqcTTCyC9BZONEkzoFmFlZgowPDBG_fuuG-7WCCeQ4WnDeAWuk1Ky2MzPGF93-rToSb/s1600/IMG_3543+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7wOY9w09DY1c3K4ACg9UenDMdFOVIlQOlf-JOlDAj6cTlqCRoC_0HedZQxkiJCN9fvb5lUtQTZqqcTTCyC9BZONEkzoFmFlZgowPDBG_fuuG-7WCCeQ4WnDeAWuk1Ky2MzPGF93-rToSb/s640/IMG_3543+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old and the new - between Monjo and Namche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8rilShYjEibtK3HkkcPL989K1iL7pUU1OSBZfm_Vocc_xPpdyhEcrKr9Ji9gTEuHW9k4A0iaTGFWQIpAzZzli8Q5zuiZHsWb67SqL-0sODI0h0ZH_zcX9nBgfVqiQ05dykRE8I46iqLC/s1600/IMG_3572+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8rilShYjEibtK3HkkcPL989K1iL7pUU1OSBZfm_Vocc_xPpdyhEcrKr9Ji9gTEuHW9k4A0iaTGFWQIpAzZzli8Q5zuiZHsWb67SqL-0sODI0h0ZH_zcX9nBgfVqiQ05dykRE8I46iqLC/s640/IMG_3572+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Namche Bazaar - a bustling hub of markets, cafes, shoe repair men, movies and many, many tourists!</td></tr>
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<h3 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Khumbu Valley & Three Passes</span></h3>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i>"I look up to the mountains —</i><span class="indent-1"><span class="indent-1-breaks"><i> </i></span><span class="text Ps-121-1"><i>does my help come from there?</i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="indent-1"><span class="text Ps-121-1"></span></span><span class="text Ps-121-2" id="en-NLT-16060"><sup class="versenum"><i> </i></sup><i>My help comes from the </i><span class="small-caps" style="font-variant: small-caps;"><i>Lord</i></span><i>,</i></span><br />
<span class="indent-1"><span class="indent-1-breaks"><i> </i></span><span class="text Ps-121-2"><i>who made heaven and earth!"</i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">From a song sung by Jewish Pilgrims on the road (Psalm 121)</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4F8EWlpCGRVIHfya0FWRBL5cuclGsFNhFWVTv1txTArMI86vtZfMy4652WWfJ58suMfNK3gOGt_0QIval8qAH3Zaoi5_L3AN5gX7yvkKnUQnuYGT-HQgZTcDwbjo35wI1r5LbxUPRv50/s1600/map_khumbu_everest_trek_with_route_passes_villages_mountain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4F8EWlpCGRVIHfya0FWRBL5cuclGsFNhFWVTv1txTArMI86vtZfMy4652WWfJ58suMfNK3gOGt_0QIval8qAH3Zaoi5_L3AN5gX7yvkKnUQnuYGT-HQgZTcDwbjo35wI1r5LbxUPRv50/s640/map_khumbu_everest_trek_with_route_passes_villages_mountain.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
Our route from Namche (bottom middle). We started walking three days below Lukla, instead of the usual which is flying in.</div>
<div>
From Lukla it is a one or two day walk to Namche (depending on whether you walk or fly in for acclimatisation purposes). </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged0tCDx2U8RqyIktJAhCzX9Wha_UyzrnCYcoy9vwh4aTBLjeFdj4CKy5rjlUT_EsZDn0AwqMEH7Z6XYkpK-flQxyw2hec9HMPN80plhYSjgUSRdSsqrYWS2NGEjH7x6_tZ9exLIYWkzG3/s1600/IMG_3592+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged0tCDx2U8RqyIktJAhCzX9Wha_UyzrnCYcoy9vwh4aTBLjeFdj4CKy5rjlUT_EsZDn0AwqMEH7Z6XYkpK-flQxyw2hec9HMPN80plhYSjgUSRdSsqrYWS2NGEjH7x6_tZ9exLIYWkzG3/s640/IMG_3592+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boom! Ama Dablam comes into view.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZp637KGh3bnJyerbgwtzQAP_2k-CSqrr8NUVxTbJCWlBC1TwiT7VV9KDwkymJeUOfQPsRtphBbQ2y6YFfGp8rLIEInSfvqAdI8R35EczLvsZPULHJWmJsEu_9TZ3MWYWmdnd3zRfcZOxM/s1600/IMG_3731+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZp637KGh3bnJyerbgwtzQAP_2k-CSqrr8NUVxTbJCWlBC1TwiT7VV9KDwkymJeUOfQPsRtphBbQ2y6YFfGp8rLIEInSfvqAdI8R35EczLvsZPULHJWmJsEu_9TZ3MWYWmdnd3zRfcZOxM/s640/IMG_3731+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
An acclimatisation walk up to visit Ama Dablam base camp, which was packed with expeditions</div>
<div>
climbing! An incredible mountain, which</div>
<div>
inspired us so much we returned at the end of the trip for further exploration!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9q_XzRAUK1yZIKI7fZfC2h4r-iwVqY_WLsDhJbs164tMtrLqoNa-LmzhvWlQL9YhtC-_U7RirjmgzFM2n3DzylrWiQ7awyRFx36u0yLjr16MYONQsih6UeAmuFCGPvCh6oUtigaOJv4m/s1600/IMG_3742+Stitch+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9q_XzRAUK1yZIKI7fZfC2h4r-iwVqY_WLsDhJbs164tMtrLqoNa-LmzhvWlQL9YhtC-_U7RirjmgzFM2n3DzylrWiQ7awyRFx36u0yLjr16MYONQsih6UeAmuFCGPvCh6oUtigaOJv4m/s640/IMG_3742+Stitch+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDzt04w6rwVj3EoRJnKlAvNaGu5xlg8G8M83LaqhFDJ8d4yATn5Mn7qxhWn7flGVlat9_ZcfPjRxo66eXWNsoBQ7OYlTJ_F9_kBdbtzT9nmqXmeuwrCG5zpBPVo04ukX2GLJx6qtGNF8m/s1600/IMG_3781+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDzt04w6rwVj3EoRJnKlAvNaGu5xlg8G8M83LaqhFDJ8d4yATn5Mn7qxhWn7flGVlat9_ZcfPjRxo66eXWNsoBQ7OYlTJ_F9_kBdbtzT9nmqXmeuwrCG5zpBPVo04ukX2GLJx6qtGNF8m/s640/IMG_3781+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Windy up there! Everest is on the left at the back and Lhotse on the right.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0dydqpveYbyI-0ZmmYdZPhJxSWThW3XwobZ_uHVMNOVeVCFI57ArJp1-IG7H8GmPXm5ad6XXH-RVHv7WjxXhCTCQtF_V8jFXmdHOU3RBZEwsqLyNFG7s_mTSD2IcIpB2gvUaPIYkU1n8/s1600/IMG_3798+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0dydqpveYbyI-0ZmmYdZPhJxSWThW3XwobZ_uHVMNOVeVCFI57ArJp1-IG7H8GmPXm5ad6XXH-RVHv7WjxXhCTCQtF_V8jFXmdHOU3RBZEwsqLyNFG7s_mTSD2IcIpB2gvUaPIYkU1n8/s640/IMG_3798+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wandering up a hill on a rest day - Cholatse behind</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC3Md3CztsMmJuFdEhfpKM_7VfayZbqM3FM_Rcvi-3w1As3Z4bENTdf6lvIXvymzbjYpitmr3ZW03jMxUIV2GG7MWEyvkg31rJNReVa8Fr1bUAGPs1eyER1XHMrrJ2mkUBjRrdw-hJzHdP/s1600/IMG_3853+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC3Md3CztsMmJuFdEhfpKM_7VfayZbqM3FM_Rcvi-3w1As3Z4bENTdf6lvIXvymzbjYpitmr3ZW03jMxUIV2GG7MWEyvkg31rJNReVa8Fr1bUAGPs1eyER1XHMrrJ2mkUBjRrdw-hJzHdP/s640/IMG_3853+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above Dingboche, with Ama Dablam in the background, 5083m</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXJeKB_5MRJlpchreHK-wjCoqyK0nU9abpdt6dPVq4efRh6YKTt4fUQeQ_PCIXqoImLebw1-QUSjrsm0-huMYGrBQiynqM9M6_3LjDAlcJox1K01NEIZKMeKmigjodZ8H19N2rWoUHRVM/s1600/IMG_3876+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXJeKB_5MRJlpchreHK-wjCoqyK0nU9abpdt6dPVq4efRh6YKTt4fUQeQ_PCIXqoImLebw1-QUSjrsm0-huMYGrBQiynqM9M6_3LjDAlcJox1K01NEIZKMeKmigjodZ8H19N2rWoUHRVM/s640/IMG_3876+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
On our way to Chhkung Ri, an acclimatisation day with the impressive Lhotse Face. Chhkung Ri is 5550m so</div>
<div>
helpful for the following Kongma La Pass which was also 5550m.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MkEjJ_JjRpgravZbUxdWjnfXMAmL-GCOcTErJ0wHpDA9fZnIULsj81pc5xqZMO1UlMe34uBHzsSffihgldxN47oITgNrkQcKXuPkLpWdlenb5ZgIdXv7PuvT1N2DdZ9uzkZWIIna3Wmv/s1600/IMG_3883+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MkEjJ_JjRpgravZbUxdWjnfXMAmL-GCOcTErJ0wHpDA9fZnIULsj81pc5xqZMO1UlMe34uBHzsSffihgldxN47oITgNrkQcKXuPkLpWdlenb5ZgIdXv7PuvT1N2DdZ9uzkZWIIna3Wmv/s640/IMG_3883+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards Island Peak (left) and where the Amphu Lampsta crossing comes in on the right.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZznGmkvGih6KZF5WfkVOHuKyMTYTqJjHUTX7dTIhXipjQ2yJO_axJMeTKIsQIYv4wCF31G5ME26q-CA9XX_9HSzJgssahfOMMARDwOpe4RTtDyUTzI-2XZrHbK_YVT3TAac96ctiC2Ffv/s1600/IMG_3902+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZznGmkvGih6KZF5WfkVOHuKyMTYTqJjHUTX7dTIhXipjQ2yJO_axJMeTKIsQIYv4wCF31G5ME26q-CA9XX_9HSzJgssahfOMMARDwOpe4RTtDyUTzI-2XZrHbK_YVT3TAac96ctiC2Ffv/s640/IMG_3902+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhkung Ri: Despite being dwarfed by the Lhotse face we felt like we'd made a summit!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTiuUYBL3qUrEmKgEtlsepkVp5uv92p7_AMe1jm9jK4ZQVjCFlH7kkUjcBhYYiSF4ZFy5vEf-eBf4CcfozgW8Rhp-kAkFjzJzM2zH70t3wPzaqs820AcQAjryTaObCG766D20L7i00SRj/s1600/IMG_3910+Stitch+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="96" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTiuUYBL3qUrEmKgEtlsepkVp5uv92p7_AMe1jm9jK4ZQVjCFlH7kkUjcBhYYiSF4ZFy5vEf-eBf4CcfozgW8Rhp-kAkFjzJzM2zH70t3wPzaqs820AcQAjryTaObCG766D20L7i00SRj/s640/IMG_3910+Stitch+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up Chhkung Ri. From left: Lhotse Face, Island Peak, Ama Dablam (centre) and down the main Khumbu valley</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiTbQMKHTShIA7l4c6Fx9u7L3-Uvq9yqJf3H6VA5MNuifpxquTBhSlBpyL8s5JBUFwHPZcVRsAPi7XHQl5O4eVEz8s54Ff8mPNUwpjQ28lVgANVkJLP_-bbMqoqG5lhyphenhyphenbnN-z4PygJuBg/s1600/IMG_4080+Stitch+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiTbQMKHTShIA7l4c6Fx9u7L3-Uvq9yqJf3H6VA5MNuifpxquTBhSlBpyL8s5JBUFwHPZcVRsAPi7XHQl5O4eVEz8s54Ff8mPNUwpjQ28lVgANVkJLP_-bbMqoqG5lhyphenhyphenbnN-z4PygJuBg/s640/IMG_4080+Stitch+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Kongma La (first pass) - 5550m. Stunning!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1ONEh7cjAu3oDtwWFlaOdabp55SxGLPLebmu3TGW042nvotEeE64pbSgwRSChlIxsj8X12UcU3WoXYwVP2AhjSZ1CQfvyVcFf0DbYYMc-IQtiJ_DIkTeUqkcx6ouCQ8wfJ-Rg_jDcrBy/s1600/IMG_4091+Stitch+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1ONEh7cjAu3oDtwWFlaOdabp55SxGLPLebmu3TGW042nvotEeE64pbSgwRSChlIxsj8X12UcU3WoXYwVP2AhjSZ1CQfvyVcFf0DbYYMc-IQtiJ_DIkTeUqkcx6ouCQ8wfJ-Rg_jDcrBy/s640/IMG_4091+Stitch+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Kongma La looking west towards Lobuche (the main valley leading to Everest).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOKIjc3zSN8-mTkPJzQaAaGK9rJ6-t6Im509nWUL-KlyGK4CIt4GoQ_HjcCwuiBO8xi900iHFlneBHNyCQiAjYc-t5q6nMygiFzdVP7cYZPa9IiiC_bdDlXrq054iKLXFouG8Qa-rynb-S/s1600/IMG_4189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOKIjc3zSN8-mTkPJzQaAaGK9rJ6-t6Im509nWUL-KlyGK4CIt4GoQ_HjcCwuiBO8xi900iHFlneBHNyCQiAjYc-t5q6nMygiFzdVP7cYZPa9IiiC_bdDlXrq054iKLXFouG8Qa-rynb-S/s640/IMG_4189.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kala Pattar, 5550m. A sunset mission to see Everest and then a night adventure back to our lodge in Lobuche.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXgQJtnQD7R8T1qOx_6x8J6_euCRNVAR20KFmRP4J0oN9dQLN1wooi7-DElW91x1UYeAT7U8wdt1XYNXRNEgIx068CaNM_Y9H1hduELLdcbE9nk_3aw_WVAjOjiKLIcIqlS1QkxqeT8cp/s1600/IMG_4183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXgQJtnQD7R8T1qOx_6x8J6_euCRNVAR20KFmRP4J0oN9dQLN1wooi7-DElW91x1UYeAT7U8wdt1XYNXRNEgIx068CaNM_Y9H1hduELLdcbE9nk_3aw_WVAjOjiKLIcIqlS1QkxqeT8cp/s640/IMG_4183.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest with the Khumbu Glacier and the start of the Khumbu icefall. The route up to the South Col (the obvious saddle<br />
to the right of Everest) cuts sharply back behind the ridge in the foreground, up the Western CWM. Base Camp is at<br />
the bottom of the sweeping corner on the icefall (left side of the glacier)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ama Dablam and the locals</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towards Cho La (second pass), 5400m</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
We crossed two glaciers like this - the Khumbu and the Ngozumba en route to Gokyo. HUGE walls of gravel and ice. </div>
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It was both impressive and daunting.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Gokyo Ri, 5550m with the afternoon fog rolling in. Looking down on Gokyo village.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gokyo Ri - an amazing spot to watch the sun set</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest and Nuptse.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03dPnGaoLx-OAfMklt79lHc3FbCX33aoP9xOziMIXNkdoNccKcJ3k9iDBLp80r1yB2WpMt5CxzirCo3ihSNNwvvYQDXsb1vqWAPaGYjo4WBYBNovRv97N_C81s3TNpxNkpeKie5k0f0tk/s1600/IMG_4632+Stitch+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03dPnGaoLx-OAfMklt79lHc3FbCX33aoP9xOziMIXNkdoNccKcJ3k9iDBLp80r1yB2WpMt5CxzirCo3ihSNNwvvYQDXsb1vqWAPaGYjo4WBYBNovRv97N_C81s3TNpxNkpeKie5k0f0tk/s640/IMG_4632+Stitch+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From further up the Gokyo valley and the Ngozumbu glacier. This is the longest glacier in the Himalaya's (36km long)</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPfQX9muf8gIA2dBocS4AbenElmH9jUTOhjAEMa15XaiJlib-6r1ZeTHitjO8e8DmoUbHAlU6W7HTwWXMBgr1T7mJaAYKL73EG0hwGqubaXqtxj-YdBfiFOZdibwGocq9lN4jDC_ieKt3/s1600/IMG_4713+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPfQX9muf8gIA2dBocS4AbenElmH9jUTOhjAEMa15XaiJlib-6r1ZeTHitjO8e8DmoUbHAlU6W7HTwWXMBgr1T7mJaAYKL73EG0hwGqubaXqtxj-YdBfiFOZdibwGocq9lN4jDC_ieKt3/s640/IMG_4713+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Video from a peak above the Ngozumbu glacier</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Renjo La (3rd pass) looking back at Gokyo and Everest</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite being fit, altitude got the better of me this day which made for some slow hill climbing!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnJC1hAedYiaS37GK89Us2O9XhE3noWT-ByTe8sTsweSa-YlmSuBE_8NTgJqXNjBgQBEk_KdSLxQopMbOA8NGDFZvaln5JwDk1rQKVC14ygncHMIlWf77WiBmQVrxhb7GX4LycI6w5fqM/s1600/IMG_4815+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnJC1hAedYiaS37GK89Us2O9XhE3noWT-ByTe8sTsweSa-YlmSuBE_8NTgJqXNjBgQBEk_KdSLxQopMbOA8NGDFZvaln5JwDk1rQKVC14ygncHMIlWf77WiBmQVrxhb7GX4LycI6w5fqM/s640/IMG_4815+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Renjo La, 5300m</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrying everything....INCLUDING the kitchen sink!!! Awesome. (leaving Ama Dablam base camp)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on Ama Dablam - our favourite mountain</td></tr>
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Looking towards High Camp 5100m (right side of scree) and Camp 1 5800m (top left of ridge) on our Ama Dablam</div>
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exploration day. We came back here at the end of our trek once we'd become sufficiently acclimatised...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqaBWF44XoFyb9b4dzGgDB4alnPvoau2VbVJx5kh3auW38JfMeSK2FnXz14yrdnlZSO2r0CJMnzKSf5cgsgFZitvvBCYoOgpRDw0dzwoYT0W4TqmM3R5z8Y0Y3P9EABEt63d3etpkgyUt/s1600/IMG_5064+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqaBWF44XoFyb9b4dzGgDB4alnPvoau2VbVJx5kh3auW38JfMeSK2FnXz14yrdnlZSO2r0CJMnzKSf5cgsgFZitvvBCYoOgpRDw0dzwoYT0W4TqmM3R5z8Y0Y3P9EABEt63d3etpkgyUt/s640/IMG_5064+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woohoo! Camp 1, 5800m</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGT-uhW7_-2ig1j4nvcgAbqiI43u6hKpebM-pLw3-_1-zUYnRYfZMXfKs9lRjNRTjPwNNU1fPvv_kPlaPu6dk_kVbHY41_6KOA5o5Vw8f1_HIYgaD_jeinbXyoDZyBzkWA-heJpKEIV7G6/s1600/IMG_5070+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGT-uhW7_-2ig1j4nvcgAbqiI43u6hKpebM-pLw3-_1-zUYnRYfZMXfKs9lRjNRTjPwNNU1fPvv_kPlaPu6dk_kVbHY41_6KOA5o5Vw8f1_HIYgaD_jeinbXyoDZyBzkWA-heJpKEIV7G6/s640/IMG_5070+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
Camp One and the summit! There was a team of Austrians summiting when we were here, like a trail of tiny ants...</div>
<div>
This was our highest point of the journey.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LPUHiI9YFgr_xq3rsuAZz-A-0XXtW-BDAeC1QW_9zE7NBSxRWrXQn-p1HeYBk9MEgHla-Wedq3h1KA5iA13frzw0D2qJyA4AxSmRCx7CGrO03rbZTeKiCOVo-rpf07vYG3jUuAGQ3vWi/s1600/IMG_5072+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LPUHiI9YFgr_xq3rsuAZz-A-0XXtW-BDAeC1QW_9zE7NBSxRWrXQn-p1HeYBk9MEgHla-Wedq3h1KA5iA13frzw0D2qJyA4AxSmRCx7CGrO03rbZTeKiCOVo-rpf07vYG3jUuAGQ3vWi/s640/IMG_5072+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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Camp Three is below the large hanging glacier....obviously prone to avalanches!</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/56KQD_P947g/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/56KQD_P947g?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<b>Video view from Ama Dablam Camp 1 at 5800m</b></div>
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We'd also like to thank Reagan & Rachel, friends from CHCH, who we gave our packs to 9 months ago back in NZ for them to bring to India for us! Legends!</div>
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<div>
We're now starting to really look forward to returning to NZ, seeing friends and whanau in person, catching up and getting stuck into life!</div>
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Arohanui & Namaste</div>
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Andy & Miriam</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Poetry for the Hard Outs!!</span></h2>
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<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wings of the Mountains </span></b></div>
<div>
<i>Arthur Guiterman (1871-1943)<br /> </i></div>
<div>
Before there were clouds in the heavens,<br />
Before there were summers and springs,<br />
Afar in the fathomless ages<br />
The mountains, the mountains had wings.<br />
For, first of the works of creation<br />
Are they of the towering crests,<br />
And great was their grandeur and glory,<br />
And greater the pride in their breasts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
They soared to the starry pavilions;<br />
Prodigious in power and girth,<br />
They darkened the world with their shadows.<br />
Yea, truly, unstable was Earth!<br />
For madly they challenged each other,<br />
Till, rising in menacing flight,<br />
They sundered the peace of the ages;<br />
In battle they measured their might.</div>
<div>
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<div>
Then, rolling together, the ranges<br />
In thunderous conflict were hurled;<br />
The crags of the helmeted summits<br />
Were scattered abroad through the world;<br />
Till He that created the mountains,<br />
Who stayeth the sea with His hand,<br />
Dissevered the wings from their shoulders<br />
And rooted the hills where they stand.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So, marshaled in order of battle<br />
The rolling sierras are seen;<br />
But calm are the helmeted summits,<br />
And calm are the valleys between.<br />
The snows of the æons have softened<br />
The pride of the towering crests,<br />
And sunk are the passionate fires<br />
That burned in the cavernous breasts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
And still in the quiet of the evening<br />
The clouds of the heavens enfold<br />
The bulk of the great, shraggy shoulders<br />
In ivory, crimson, and gold;<br />
For these are the wings of the mountains,<br />
Though clouds to the vision of men,<br />
And thus, by the mercy of Heaven,<br />
They come to the mountains again. </div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-72800579618653104372016-10-13T20:36:00.000-07:002016-11-24T04:57:02.091-08:00Kolkata, India: Vibrant Streets, Hard Stuff, Freedom Businesses<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Summary and Highlights:</h2>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">2 weeks spent mostly in Kolkata visiting some friends from Christchurch, NZ who shifted there to study & start some "freedom businesses"</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">A few days in Darjeeling, a town at about 2200m near the Nepalese border, which is famous for its' tea & cooler climate</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Volunteering at the Nirmal Hriday Home for the Destitute and Dying setup by Mother Theresa</span></li>
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</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Learning about and seeing freedom businesses & organisations in action: Freeset, SariBari, Kolkata Arts and Loyal Workshop</span></li>
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</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Next stop - Kathmandu Nepal, with a months trekking near Everest and briefly assisting with the Himalayan Foundation Nepali teacher training programme before heading home...</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Vibrant Streets Assaulting the Senses - The Morning Walk</h2>
It's 7:30am on a Sunday morning near Sudder Street in Kolkata, India. We're just stepping out of Hotel Galaxy, our guesthouse, onto the asphalt lane to walk to the Metro Station. On our left, we pass the 5 or 6 bright yellow 1960's style taxi cabs that always line the street early in the morning. There's colourful graffiti on the walls behind them. <br />
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The smell of urine wafts up from the walls and open urinals on the side of the road against the building to the right. Up ahead, there's already of crowd, mostly guys, eating breakfast & drinking cha (spiced milk tea). We join them for our daily order of a couple of chappata breads and amazing spiced bean broth, perching on planks setup on the side of the lane. You need to put aside all your western manners, as you share a plate and delve into it with only your right hand which is soon covered in curry. The chapati is still toasty hot, after being cooked over the coals within the top of their small, round upright cooker. Incredible to watch & delicious to eat!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrumOCG47cc2t58QiXJSMoW7c_JrUDgJeQEx7mfdVRqC6Ae8ldhddnCn9pr9QE3QQqvhU4hUSP2rpOwh0Q48ihv7SqDrgdutaVTIZfyviUcvf8PbrvIbxuHFvgYD7mnG-A5ek3DojpIDY/s1600/IMG_3308+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrumOCG47cc2t58QiXJSMoW7c_JrUDgJeQEx7mfdVRqC6Ae8ldhddnCn9pr9QE3QQqvhU4hUSP2rpOwh0Q48ihv7SqDrgdutaVTIZfyviUcvf8PbrvIbxuHFvgYD7mnG-A5ek3DojpIDY/s640/IMG_3308+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our lane, with the street urinals on the right, quite a step up from the usual against the wall pee!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWH1HJXGzO-8Oj3mdJOtSrR7f4eyCa_oCEd8g1pl_2iV9_u_d5st4VHfyq65fsy7R7nDf42qg-BDsAAfnbnt-tQl7ZgGdyFCKxFpHL-lyJegMf6viS1FZi_agpL2Eatgt-CleDI5efx_s/s1600/IMG_3310+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWH1HJXGzO-8Oj3mdJOtSrR7f4eyCa_oCEd8g1pl_2iV9_u_d5st4VHfyq65fsy7R7nDf42qg-BDsAAfnbnt-tQl7ZgGdyFCKxFpHL-lyJegMf6viS1FZi_agpL2Eatgt-CleDI5efx_s/s640/IMG_3310+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The corner cha walah (milk tea guy) on the left, with the morning chapati with bean/potato curry guy on the right...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfFK6ENAQBIpA8qfFAUoHAzAzfsyBC8Ek0NANprwPl8VEF6yh50FrHJ4Mr4cCnIi4FqnpbnKuUbxR_ZgYOjM8IHQUGLLfJQhU8lQShNsW9Rj4hYpEmLeb7r1FnX_lWNTznu_ZE9DiCJnU/s1600/IMG_3118+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZfFK6ENAQBIpA8qfFAUoHAzAzfsyBC8Ek0NANprwPl8VEF6yh50FrHJ4Mr4cCnIi4FqnpbnKuUbxR_ZgYOjM8IHQUGLLfJQhU8lQShNsW9Rj4hYpEmLeb7r1FnX_lWNTznu_ZE9DiCJnU/s640/IMG_3118+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street food! Our Chapati guy in action, freshly cooked over hot coals (5 Rupees per chapata)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2ZG6Zd8chYGm-WJk-gm2ob3IBFqbBWwmILuCm3M7GDZPSPda2P7dqnIpWZ3RanZNuFqltuGqCC01-_m0Q8C945yqwTRF4WBlRS9tvzl4eb_SltBQEqmGhBRK8q1eLGf6Jn3kELXRTp2-/s1600/IMG_3103+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2ZG6Zd8chYGm-WJk-gm2ob3IBFqbBWwmILuCm3M7GDZPSPda2P7dqnIpWZ3RanZNuFqltuGqCC01-_m0Q8C945yqwTRF4WBlRS9tvzl4eb_SltBQEqmGhBRK8q1eLGf6Jn3kELXRTp2-/s320/IMG_3103+small.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cha in the traditional, recyclable clay cups (5 rupees)<br />
We've been so impressed by the lack of plastic<br />
waste here, often using leaf plates, clay cups, re-usable plates,<br />
filtered water - love it!</td></tr>
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Just a couple of meters across the lane, the cha wallah pours out his next steaming brew through the filter into small round clay cups. Soooo good! We smash the clay cups onto the gutter underneath us as we finish, before heading round the corner. The theory is that the clay eventually finds it's way back to the river it originally came from, as the rain washes it down the gutters (<a href="http://chaiwallahsofindia.com/2013/10/behind-kolkatas-clay-cups-the-bhar-wallahs-of-kalighat/" target="_blank">http://chaiwallahsofindia.com</a>).<br />
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We walk past shops opening up, other food stalls, a herd of goats heading to a market somewhere, while continuously telling the taxi guys we don't want a ride.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEids9qD5rd_jSSEOXx171dkkUGOJ746d3w_W-FC-lTyq5yIuMfFdIJiI_MLdAYxYwCgfEJ_DghdrPq7tG9ZsgwbhcmxIAFWAjkOcDEepi6Wo-f7eDycFjtGZ8gn7r-HE_84nGJIBPYuNfbq/s1600/IMG_0088+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEids9qD5rd_jSSEOXx171dkkUGOJ746d3w_W-FC-lTyq5yIuMfFdIJiI_MLdAYxYwCgfEJ_DghdrPq7tG9ZsgwbhcmxIAFWAjkOcDEepi6Wo-f7eDycFjtGZ8gn7r-HE_84nGJIBPYuNfbq/s640/IMG_0088+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsen9FfFeh6Q794gNzTRcnfVTCUQHnTXJwVq449hHvxLHfweIqTioqjRUrfZrUEcWInXb3BuQYPdXpO14nSQW-s7NXDPJUTJJY3W-MYSShh9hH_W8SC7HdayauoKG41NwYSTRH3vHQ0HKS/s1600/20160930_125939+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsen9FfFeh6Q794gNzTRcnfVTCUQHnTXJwVq449hHvxLHfweIqTioqjRUrfZrUEcWInXb3BuQYPdXpO14nSQW-s7NXDPJUTJJY3W-MYSShh9hH_W8SC7HdayauoKG41NwYSTRH3vHQ0HKS/s640/20160930_125939+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's currently the Hindu Durga Puja Festival, so at night, Kolkata is cranking! The streets are lit up with lights, speakers erected blaring out music at ear shattering volumes down the lanes, communities competing with their stage-like setups. This is their equivalent of Christmas.<br />
As we near the museum corner, we pass by the street people, some still asleep, their shelters setup on the footpath. Some are bucketing water over themselves from the handpump. We see them every morning; sleeping, children playing, eating here on the footpath. This is just a small group, in comparison to some of the many large slum communities living beside the railway tracks or banks of steep sided canals here. A daily reminder for us of the stark realities of the disparity between rich and poor. Between those entering the malls and nice shops and those living on the streets and slums, or selling themselves to make ends meet.<br />
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What you can't hear from the words on this page is the constant tooting of cars and buses as we walk. It's virtually impossible to have a conversation with Miri, as we dodge cars, motorbikes or hand drawn rickshaws, people yelling and music playing. This is a colourful place!!! We pass by other sections of food stalls, with their amazing egg rolls (like kebab wraps), yogurt lassies and lime soda vendors, clothes, belt and bag vendors before taking the steps down into the underground Metro.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOX79Fs8pIyUFF4akW01VNzJomT1wdrN0NBg91QsesfVVBNdh-2nCl3_hi_gnv6-N9HHtvXxdE9E_qMJ4vmOMDaJrZj2NveOkywTTgDCOGQp57CHASz93DmUMZEVhGkfpBRztmtSoPWEQ/s1600/20161009_205611+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOX79Fs8pIyUFF4akW01VNzJomT1wdrN0NBg91QsesfVVBNdh-2nCl3_hi_gnv6-N9HHtvXxdE9E_qMJ4vmOMDaJrZj2NveOkywTTgDCOGQp57CHASz93DmUMZEVhGkfpBRztmtSoPWEQ/s400/20161009_205611+small.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ricki, a friend of our friends at a Puja Pandal (makeshift stage & idol)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-YXKIlaDhvYq2LvH8TwpeMMDYl0fcNXg_cwOsZipmNwtrfXXUyoNo7oLK5wUcSPLAf1ksNthx9N7xXvhrzGD798qiRQpzMGr8YpMzIQm746bXI5Rl8_WO0MWCKSpgeHlxcOLc35zfcQQ/s1600/20161009_210857+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-YXKIlaDhvYq2LvH8TwpeMMDYl0fcNXg_cwOsZipmNwtrfXXUyoNo7oLK5wUcSPLAf1ksNthx9N7xXvhrzGD798qiRQpzMGr8YpMzIQm746bXI5Rl8_WO0MWCKSpgeHlxcOLc35zfcQQ/s400/20161009_210857+small.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many, many people ....</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Hard Stuff</h2>
<div>
Kokata has the largest red-light district in Southern Asia, Sonagachi, a square kilometre of densely populated homes and brothels. Some estimate that there are 10,000 women in the trade here, with 20,000 men passing through every day. Some women can face up to 20 men per day. Our walk with Freeset took us through a very operational, in your face area with one main purpose: "The Trade". Very explicit! There's men lining up, waiting their turn, bargaining the price for the women, while she stands there waiting. Women waiting on the sides. Faces often very devoid of hope. Ocassionally one would smile as they recognised the lady from Freeset. </div>
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<div>
Many of these women have been trafficked here against their will, typically with the knowledge of their families, who are faced with the temptation of one less mouth to feed and an income from the city. They are then typically held in the bondage of debt, heaped with ongoing expenses that they will struggle to ever repay. Some are here "by choice" for the work, because it's the only job they can get, perhaps their mother or grandmother was also in the trade. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
In contrast to this, we dropped in to visit a family who work for Freeset. There are now a few women and families in the same building who work for them, as word has spread. We sat on the bed and waited while they brought some Cha tea from down the road and biscuits to share with us, as we talked with their talking parrot. This was a real privilege being able to enjoy their hospitality. A snippet of hope amidst some hard situations.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The night walk through this area was really moving for us. But we're equally inspired by the amazing people, passionate about giving these women FREEDOM here. Freedom of choice. They're involved in some daring stuff.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For more, check out: <a href="http://freeset.org/">http://freeset.org/</a> or in NZ <a href="http://liminal.org.nz/">http://liminal.org.nz/</a> or <a href="http://www.theloyalworkshop.com/">http://www.theloyalworkshop.com/</a> We recently read a book called Sold (by Patricia McCormick) and have had recommended "The Locust Effect" by Gary A. Haugen</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
The Re-Occurring Theme of Freedom</h2>
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Freedom. It's a word that's often used in these parts with the people we know. For good reason. It's something we too often take for granted in our worlds of choice. It's also been a word that we've felt has re-occurred for us time and time again over the year in different settings, whether it's been in the Refugee Camps in Greece, talking with our friends living in Turkey and their journeys with religion, our friends in Myanmar - some who have relatives that have sought refuge in NZ, those trapped cycles of poverty in Phnom Penh and here. It is something that the people we have spent time with have taught us to be very grateful for. It's gift that many don't have the privilege of enjoying and we live in hope that, as we "love our neighbour as ourselves", that they will experience greater freedom also...</div>
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One of the reasons we came to Kolkata was to visit friends, 3 couples and families who have recently moved here from Christchurch, NZ. They're passionate about seeing healthy, caring communities with thriving relationships, something they were also passionate about seeing in NZ. In their new community a key need is choice of employment for the many families that are struggling. They're living within close proximity to 3 different slum communities. So, they're in the midst of starting up some small businesses to offer a degree of choice and opportunity to some of these families. We've been super inspired hanging out with them and meeting their local friends while we've been here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonjOtvOFMXxTC7TIg7EzgfjTMdKkJdjEPtlcw15cY7G_UzUb3DJw7h4z6m8Aco81kyT88ij8uQmPbuz-6d1j_cBFNgAwv-NFT-IMsGIrXEJoAZKCSlV93MVf_M7VQY5AhhvTJlGspeElT/s1600/2016-09-30+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+024+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonjOtvOFMXxTC7TIg7EzgfjTMdKkJdjEPtlcw15cY7G_UzUb3DJw7h4z6m8Aco81kyT88ij8uQmPbuz-6d1j_cBFNgAwv-NFT-IMsGIrXEJoAZKCSlV93MVf_M7VQY5AhhvTJlGspeElT/s1600/2016-09-30+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+024+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The local Canal, our friend's local neighborhood community, notice the longdrops, slippery banks and makeshift houses. Our friends summed up the situation like this: "while the clean water gets pumped to the rich<br />
people in southern Kolkata, the southern Kolkata crap flows back past these guys and out to the river...."</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6JvGdTn6XK3XkLVpaVzAWb19Pk4nDQYAhd0WCNT0rM2sBs83wvPCyLlYIxV-91B_sWiAgih_18H4HMIGaAK61N1ttaeBBo3inLn5ypVxkZp4T46g7L1Q_sXEUxX2GFj8L3NNld1TWYyn/s1600/2016-09-30+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+021+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6JvGdTn6XK3XkLVpaVzAWb19Pk4nDQYAhd0WCNT0rM2sBs83wvPCyLlYIxV-91B_sWiAgih_18H4HMIGaAK61N1ttaeBBo3inLn5ypVxkZp4T46g7L1Q_sXEUxX2GFj8L3NNld1TWYyn/s1600/2016-09-30+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+021+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The other side of the Canal. It was a real privilege to share a Cha (Milk Tea) with a couple of families here. </td></tr>
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As our time to head back to New Zealand draws closer, we've been challenged with how our experiences over the year will change how we live in NZ. Will they just be amazing experiences that will fade into distant memories and photo books in the bookshelf? We'll need some accountability to this from our friends and whanau back home.<br />
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Thanks for reading our blog and journeying with us!<br />
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Arohanui,<br />
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Andy and Miri<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Photo Essay's</h2>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Darjeeling</h3>
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Darjeeling, a hill town in northern India bordering Nepal is known for it's cooler temperatures, views of the distant Himalayas (occasionally anyway), Darjeeling Tea, Tenzing Norgay's home, Tibetan Refugees, many bording schools and amazing MoMos. We took the overnight sleeper train and 3 hour crazy jeep ride (think packed in, winding steep roads, carsick ...) to Darjeeling for a few days.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmSBl1Qq6qzyjuhyuqdfm_oHiZfBKDkp1vRtxAfk_qgPyEOLovnJ-va2bD_l_4CfB6yK4iGVcwKyzLx6iqW_ZoKzyapDgxQ2pGQ_gsrb4p5WUWDoOOv177MiSdwflLbYpfpQHgxX4Btpf/s1600/2016-10-04+Darjeeling+CANON+019+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmSBl1Qq6qzyjuhyuqdfm_oHiZfBKDkp1vRtxAfk_qgPyEOLovnJ-va2bD_l_4CfB6yK4iGVcwKyzLx6iqW_ZoKzyapDgxQ2pGQ_gsrb4p5WUWDoOOv177MiSdwflLbYpfpQHgxX4Btpf/s640/2016-10-04+Darjeeling+CANON+019+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darjeeling clinging to the hills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhneKzc2GSd3kpbI_FwdV172aNgUFkzIFdfaci6gRarGtOd3pDttkmUM5GAU76y_6Wbw-_UxENvxD8zNQo9FW3Z3J30xPZDFOC2Yo7AVvX4VTEdHJ-Vb-uKD58ZGB_T2h0eI8KjhSGslAT3/s1600/2016-10-04+Darjeeling+CANON+026+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhneKzc2GSd3kpbI_FwdV172aNgUFkzIFdfaci6gRarGtOd3pDttkmUM5GAU76y_6Wbw-_UxENvxD8zNQo9FW3Z3J30xPZDFOC2Yo7AVvX4VTEdHJ-Vb-uKD58ZGB_T2h0eI8KjhSGslAT3/s640/2016-10-04+Darjeeling+CANON+026+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the guesthouse window over Darjeeling</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwO48kvIUnUVouTxFcQ2N29e-SW5bWLQSnP3pX4fp6OmO40GFr7zIWp_a1_ASa_KJSwWvk-L13UVQYeayijRamZCdpQwqErEMrP3z4zYkzTNXOZxDQT8gbcmXZaQDTEX7cKvER49DVBpA3/s1600/2016-10-04+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+005+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwO48kvIUnUVouTxFcQ2N29e-SW5bWLQSnP3pX4fp6OmO40GFr7zIWp_a1_ASa_KJSwWvk-L13UVQYeayijRamZCdpQwqErEMrP3z4zYkzTNXOZxDQT8gbcmXZaQDTEX7cKvER49DVBpA3/s640/2016-10-04+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+005+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local markets</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hAgXweb4gVnTtUqoohJfZAkZIpF6tFxPjR-8wksYOyIs4hBJ2Yrmj9Gkrwnj6w44oCns-56IhXsKI5bcVlAdD0d-zMmBj8hNKLepm_w7-jRpbLoNV9dQGYcM-osYumyzfN5PXMnghgXs/s1600/2016-10-06+Darjeeling+CANON+007+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hAgXweb4gVnTtUqoohJfZAkZIpF6tFxPjR-8wksYOyIs4hBJ2Yrmj9Gkrwnj6w44oCns-56IhXsKI5bcVlAdD0d-zMmBj8hNKLepm_w7-jRpbLoNV9dQGYcM-osYumyzfN5PXMnghgXs/s640/2016-10-06+Darjeeling+CANON+007+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkeys, many, many monkeys</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_slCymcA8DOaZDmQQya8ijT26QgYGLsZmYJsTemcQc-Fs6phDaOG_o0MP_ygSvdKwzlQncDLwQ6N-OIlBquUhFJ81OYRu4tpg7S6ESFNZeyQxrSAAoE4_Pw9fYLQeIPXa4v_qk5G8aMg/s1600/2016-10-06+Darjeeling+CANON+017+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_slCymcA8DOaZDmQQya8ijT26QgYGLsZmYJsTemcQc-Fs6phDaOG_o0MP_ygSvdKwzlQncDLwQ6N-OIlBquUhFJ81OYRu4tpg7S6ESFNZeyQxrSAAoE4_Pw9fYLQeIPXa4v_qk5G8aMg/s640/2016-10-06+Darjeeling+CANON+017+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">streets lit up for durga purja, with street vendors doing their thing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZuclcCiIJhsAsI8OIIMZBvWegn1vt7qNT4bFUVqLEKGnfRtKOK6QuXxK1s0sSS7DgXoLbXC7xkUFnBCt7Q7XD4U8O23HZGl2eHV76VqpUaAElLAh-IFb98UbvGcxYiQ85BvC7gIyUuek/s1600/2016-10-06+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+001+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZuclcCiIJhsAsI8OIIMZBvWegn1vt7qNT4bFUVqLEKGnfRtKOK6QuXxK1s0sSS7DgXoLbXC7xkUFnBCt7Q7XD4U8O23HZGl2eHV76VqpUaAElLAh-IFb98UbvGcxYiQ85BvC7gIyUuek/s640/2016-10-06+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+001+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our favourite morning momo and chai and lunchtime egg role street vendor</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mukSP2rwY-Ju3z-s-iIkM5k_nN-xsD1k8khukZqNuU_4Y89bgom5Dp56RQS_eTmmNGxsMmZAHmK6X2KNJiwnwKRHFbA8Jl9Sn3gGtCBE8oDf9F-7vuA5ZOYNvEaOUFbEF6TaUlPIasoL/s1600/2016-10-06+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+002+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mukSP2rwY-Ju3z-s-iIkM5k_nN-xsD1k8khukZqNuU_4Y89bgom5Dp56RQS_eTmmNGxsMmZAHmK6X2KNJiwnwKRHFbA8Jl9Sn3gGtCBE8oDf9F-7vuA5ZOYNvEaOUFbEF6TaUlPIasoL/s640/2016-10-06+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+002+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning momo's, mmmmmm!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuKaiHr9XI906C2Cy8ZUEpBNXcrRVNf3yD2l48srqnOeGE8tqapCvdvy9bMqcmvOb47ll7HCk04ZIPDkpmE2KSIcaNdlUeTgtYfh8TO0jxoa75AgSld835MyLg7nXxjD6dToP5FZ88fFj/s1600/20161007_071911+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuKaiHr9XI906C2Cy8ZUEpBNXcrRVNf3yD2l48srqnOeGE8tqapCvdvy9bMqcmvOb47ll7HCk04ZIPDkpmE2KSIcaNdlUeTgtYfh8TO0jxoa75AgSld835MyLg7nXxjD6dToP5FZ88fFj/s640/20161007_071911+small.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night sleeper train (3x3 open cabin)</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Kolkata</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH0yTESlomyRzSbK906iaUc4zkz-vjKGutCqBdP_fXjVNj_Cu2SDMh5jzFxzudC21owbeHPKOwDArTMjgFb5Lhi3ihl3J9stHNIwBowPoKJuz7b2UKFBrASJmmj7J78GiF_TqgCs4yRDF1/s1600/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+012+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH0yTESlomyRzSbK906iaUc4zkz-vjKGutCqBdP_fXjVNj_Cu2SDMh5jzFxzudC21owbeHPKOwDArTMjgFb5Lhi3ihl3J9stHNIwBowPoKJuz7b2UKFBrASJmmj7J78GiF_TqgCs4yRDF1/s640/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+012+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bright colours of Kolkata traffic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukj-sB1sUktdKXH8GBXWitKyDaZspEj0S11hr5qaxpQTA-3sRxe7s48XNT-FeRS8WWRFMmJ19J-pZUy-yKaWIzfaGNU01FHLB-rPqGzv1vqccpZzEgXsCQ9UD3hwmUSydKyjyhoJu8q8G/s1600/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+003+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukj-sB1sUktdKXH8GBXWitKyDaZspEj0S11hr5qaxpQTA-3sRxe7s48XNT-FeRS8WWRFMmJ19J-pZUy-yKaWIzfaGNU01FHLB-rPqGzv1vqccpZzEgXsCQ9UD3hwmUSydKyjyhoJu8q8G/s640/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+003+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daal & rice - getting in there with the fingers</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgrxDF8pmBm455aC3UKy4RaFr4BXP8wXx-8ArqeTPF5PY5jNI1RUbV6IumIOKdcGMBDeeO9I4R0f0AoOe62OXgvfrj6rMLvy5pphyphenhyphenSRJVSizpT5c0d1aKOU86mk-aa5UL5r0UaZqqWhRtz/s1600/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+006+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgrxDF8pmBm455aC3UKy4RaFr4BXP8wXx-8ArqeTPF5PY5jNI1RUbV6IumIOKdcGMBDeeO9I4R0f0AoOe62OXgvfrj6rMLvy5pphyphenhyphenSRJVSizpT5c0d1aKOU86mk-aa5UL5r0UaZqqWhRtz/s640/2016-10-07+Darjeeling.Puja+AJM+006+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPeX1I8yow8Knqcd75zWikwt_IdW_Zpk7aW-p-DKH2gkrqdmpQSJm996M2ifPuIS38IvVYUp-RiMavCWkGxfwB4rsanMgMGik17kD2Pkcc0mLnON54jVr_8tWPnlafUOTCzFtMEL8SpAA/s1600/20160925_073042+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPeX1I8yow8Knqcd75zWikwt_IdW_Zpk7aW-p-DKH2gkrqdmpQSJm996M2ifPuIS38IvVYUp-RiMavCWkGxfwB4rsanMgMGik17kD2Pkcc0mLnON54jVr_8tWPnlafUOTCzFtMEL8SpAA/s640/20160925_073042+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredibly industrious, we saw hand powered grinders on the footpath, hand pulled rickshaws, irons heated from <br />
small coal fires uncreasing shirts, and this old singer sewing machine mending clothes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPNTDxbnAd8ZM4fGhfURR0fJIGIh1XJq4qDC0I7CGufxF7Yz9WQtdPt0UweIP63d1-UpMeWZh-F8r7z1wQ7hMJrhR6u6a6zO1EopMb4cQ8ghgKj7nQcKzh_aqfdCDdLpcRBZJrOCouTDi/s1600/20160925_075030+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPNTDxbnAd8ZM4fGhfURR0fJIGIh1XJq4qDC0I7CGufxF7Yz9WQtdPt0UweIP63d1-UpMeWZh-F8r7z1wQ7hMJrhR6u6a6zO1EopMb4cQ8ghgKj7nQcKzh_aqfdCDdLpcRBZJrOCouTDi/s640/20160925_075030+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sudder Street</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhse0Ri2EuONAa1xIc2Abb4bYcKbr-FCJUWs5JZVh8P-c5krYPfDuQtUJvglQLXMlP_nlf5-rsSwAm-pNNQswz454t3RKMChEnlSi7WKHF03e_yVtSspbsYoh1K-b-SJ1FegX68CRwLQdzA/s1600/IMG_3142+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhse0Ri2EuONAa1xIc2Abb4bYcKbr-FCJUWs5JZVh8P-c5krYPfDuQtUJvglQLXMlP_nlf5-rsSwAm-pNNQswz454t3RKMChEnlSi7WKHF03e_yVtSspbsYoh1K-b-SJ1FegX68CRwLQdzA/s640/IMG_3142+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street food in action</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcG6QjOcyQti0atOWMvNV-ICqopdmio_m29yDQRcK3A1SbsPooJklvpKLiW_7XzcgS7llU42-5EarGA_PlXhe5S-KStOTjx1Y5WtCUrzP8ls7yJW074W9qYwDv7Zw6SUGfkVWE1AoO2ON/s1600/IMG_3159+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcG6QjOcyQti0atOWMvNV-ICqopdmio_m29yDQRcK3A1SbsPooJklvpKLiW_7XzcgS7llU42-5EarGA_PlXhe5S-KStOTjx1Y5WtCUrzP8ls7yJW074W9qYwDv7Zw6SUGfkVWE1AoO2ON/s640/IMG_3159+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our favourite Lassi vendor (sugared yoghurt drink), delicious!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many, simply sleep on the footpaths, making it their home</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaXUEQxmbJ-cRYYv8w5gU3WOxgvqOlvnByprqrYwQsABga8Xm-_MjEZKhVeEuSyoGSdmdGjubdHa4X3QE6FOIw-pKdd9ZIs-5wrMSbPSjl0ID3ShJLJ6ayisFsor2WwltKhuUQzIBat-K/s1600/IMG_3187+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaXUEQxmbJ-cRYYv8w5gU3WOxgvqOlvnByprqrYwQsABga8Xm-_MjEZKhVeEuSyoGSdmdGjubdHa4X3QE6FOIw-pKdd9ZIs-5wrMSbPSjl0ID3ShJLJ6ayisFsor2WwltKhuUQzIBat-K/s640/IMG_3187+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This street had truly incredible creations for Durga Puja! Made out of bamboo, paper, mud etc...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5iuItCIimRwQSynEPpVeqh8jVysGFqzObeiJamX3lxXoNNPbDFFd2mBuJ7UDbjjQa7P-gf-H_zjMtyre5ZSWn8t4P_NKN3sjDfH773xr6c3MiaBtASdFn_Z_C_or2dY1Xe2lgD9p1hzuP/s1600/IMG_3183+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5iuItCIimRwQSynEPpVeqh8jVysGFqzObeiJamX3lxXoNNPbDFFd2mBuJ7UDbjjQa7P-gf-H_zjMtyre5ZSWn8t4P_NKN3sjDfH773xr6c3MiaBtASdFn_Z_C_or2dY1Xe2lgD9p1hzuP/s640/IMG_3183+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mother Theresa's Kaligat Home for the Destitute. We were privelaged to volunteer here for a couple of mornings. Some volunteered here for months.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8oGvZxWGUCunY2AOv6LsaWngwuYJ8MPoRO2VDeYq1QPvtqXQzh6hfu2qaHaKpc-j8aeMnY3E2r5tnifuyPJnRT6CZwQbtXSOoRFdiaLa8ZmQWfcNbAqJGQ3EQjYcg0Wgp2KwUBXfmMx9/s1600/IMG_3175+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8oGvZxWGUCunY2AOv6LsaWngwuYJ8MPoRO2VDeYq1QPvtqXQzh6hfu2qaHaKpc-j8aeMnY3E2r5tnifuyPJnRT6CZwQbtXSOoRFdiaLa8ZmQWfcNbAqJGQ3EQjYcg0Wgp2KwUBXfmMx9/s640/IMG_3175+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street life from above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8wcXrV2PWxEmhMkuBGqfoXphIk2JdvXwZtSKUXLGgYwMcINngahBkojn1_ZRTW9SrbgPRD3b0ETFvwsECzAGjZvhColdUaA4lcUbOj9nDZhSk7vdBhrfX9vPVteUkq5mKHcVk0AKqiaJ/s1600/IMG_3193+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8wcXrV2PWxEmhMkuBGqfoXphIk2JdvXwZtSKUXLGgYwMcINngahBkojn1_ZRTW9SrbgPRD3b0ETFvwsECzAGjZvhColdUaA4lcUbOj9nDZhSk7vdBhrfX9vPVteUkq5mKHcVk0AKqiaJ/s640/IMG_3193+small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">As you can see, the locals always use the footpath, as did we :-) </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">The end :-) </span></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-49926378830778244102016-09-28T05:51:00.000-07:002016-09-28T05:51:04.907-07:00Cycle Touring Cambodia's Mekong Discovery Trail<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Cycling the Mekong Discovery
Trail - DO IT !!! </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Stung Treng to Phnom Penh, Cambodia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great chance to get off the main roads! Quiet rural riding between Stung Treng and Koh Preah</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">This blog-post has been created because a number of cycle touring friends and ourselves have found it really difficult to find information on this great cycling experience. This is a local tourism initiative set up some years ago but has since been left to its
own devices. </span><span style="font-size: 16px;">The "Mekong Discovery Trail" officially stretches from Stung Treng to Kratie. It's a long, hot day if you do the main road (145km) but it is amazing to split into 3 or even 4 days for something different. The following is a route description from Strung Treng to Phnom Penh, which incorporates information from us and other cyclists also </span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">(See also Anna and Ollie's blog at: </span><a href="http://passingthatway.blogspot.in/2014/03/cambodia-week-meandering-down-mekong.html" style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">www.passingthatway.blogspot.com</a><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">). </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">General</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Bike and Tyre Suitability: </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">For the majority of the journey, a normal cycle touring setup will be fine, with the exception of Koh Rogineav island. For these tracks we would suggest you will need to give your bike setup some thought. On the island if you are well laden and have skinny tires, it is possible that you will struggle when it's really wet and muddy. As we describe below, there are portions of the island that you'll need to walk regardless due to the sand. The fatter your tires, the lighter your bike, the easier it will be. Mountain bikes for this portion would be awesome!! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Weather Effects:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We cycled the route in August 2016, during a dry-ish period of the
monsoon. Plenty of people have cycled it in the dry season. We generally had
one brief afternoon downpour, although one night it rained for about 2 hours. It
hadn’t rained in Phnom Penh for the 2 weeks leading up to our ride. This level
of rain/mud was fine for the trail, however, if it is significantly wetter than
that, we would suggest that you should do more of your route on the main road. Friends of ours cycled it in the middle of summer in very hot / dry conditions.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b style="font-size: 12pt;">Some official information and maps: </b><a href="http://www.camboguide.com/cambodia-destinations/kratie/mekong-discovery-trail/">http://www.camboguide.com/cambodia-destinations/kratie/mekong-discovery-trail/</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Good map:</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: #1155cc;"><a href="http://www.cambodianpridetours.com/media/mekong-discovery-trail/MDT-Main-Map.jpg">http://www.cambodianpridetours.com/media/mekong-discovery-trail/MDT-Main-Map.jpg</a></span></span><u><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></u></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Our Route:</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Getting to Stung Treng:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While people will be riding there from the Laos or Vietnam borders or Phnom Pehn, if you have some time contstaints you can also catch the bus through from any of those locations. We caught a Soraya Bus (bikes $5) from Phnom Penh, but you can also catch buses through from both borders.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Homestays:</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Homestays here are definitely more expensive to stay in compared to budget cycle touring. This is mostly due to the food costs, so expect that they will put a dent in your budget. We had some great experiences and some awkward experiences with these, it may often depend on which Homestay you end up in.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">6km south of Stung Treng, you leave the tar seal and hit the dirt road</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Route Descriptions</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Stung Treng to
Koh Khnear (87km: 21km sealed plus 66km off road) - we split this into two
days but you don't need to ....</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- From the Central
Stung Treng market by the Mekong follow the road south beside the river, after 6km the sealed road turns to a
dirt road. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- Follow this,
crossing wooden bridges, through villages. After 8km is village Koh Sampeay.
Continue following the river through Damrei Phong (dolphins!), on to Srae Krasang
(8km after Koh Sampeay). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">At the time of writing you could not continue along the river roads to Koh Knhear, a turnoff is needed out to the main highway (or a $40 boat journey). </span><span style="font-size: 16px;">There are two options at Srae Krasang to get to Koh Knhear via the main highway.</span><span style="font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">1) Tar seal option (more direct and less adventurous route): Follow the tar seal road back to the hightway at Srae Krasang OR 2) Dirt Road, slightly more mountain biking and more fun/interesting option from Tboung Khla (see below)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">From Srae Krasang continue straight (tar seal goes left) for 13km of
dirt rail, gently undulating woodlands to Tboung Khla. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">***!! About half
way between Srae Krasang and Tboung Khla (at about 37km from Stung Treng) you
come to the ferry landing for the boat across to Koh Preah. There is a small
sign on the mainroad which reads “Welcome to Koh Preah”. Take a small ferry
across to the island and bike the final few km to the village and a
well-organised Homestay system. When we arrived and biked past the school, the village leader called out to us and organised a fellow teacher to have us stay at her house. This was probably the coolest and best organised village of the lot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Preah
Homestay (2016)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>Ferry across river</b> - $2.50 for 2 people and 2 bikes (5,000R each)</span><br /><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Homestay</span></b><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> $17 for 2 people for dinner/stay/breakfast ($3 each for lunch, dinner and sleeping and $2.50 each for breakfast)</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyttVKW6WnkR-8UTRxcPsmdrrOlWx18vvnnj8orXFn2R9MIc77EM-XTQs57KvtUpwOjxUoGI2NRURvS1f0er2TP0yhHOOasV0X7D5JWWSq33nSf_wt_wRGIydb3zgf1mBzKyodeCMsB7K/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyttVKW6WnkR-8UTRxcPsmdrrOlWx18vvnnj8orXFn2R9MIc77EM-XTQs57KvtUpwOjxUoGI2NRURvS1f0er2TP0yhHOOasV0X7D5JWWSq33nSf_wt_wRGIydb3zgf1mBzKyodeCMsB7K/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+011.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Koh Preah is a lovely village, with a really friendly leader, Saylom. He'll hook you up with a homestay quick as!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGk1ehWSyHr2ss3sKCWuK3XgVeGnm_BaucuGUTTILbykYWVKjWhRKBJvbBQ6vCmSRmbIk7_B1ZR7tJOmWWu-qgMBz4vhyHg4MDN2e_ca_xXSCJjJhm8Js6SKZsJb7eu3zwmNvNy2AOp7t/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGk1ehWSyHr2ss3sKCWuK3XgVeGnm_BaucuGUTTILbykYWVKjWhRKBJvbBQ6vCmSRmbIk7_B1ZR7tJOmWWu-qgMBz4vhyHg4MDN2e_ca_xXSCJjJhm8Js6SKZsJb7eu3zwmNvNy2AOp7t/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+090.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The first of many ferries - this one takes you across the Mekong to Koh Preah if you choose to stop here.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><u>Summary of day one towns that have some food available:</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Sampeay: Drinks and snacks, restaurants<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Damrei Phong: Drinks and snacks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Srae Krasang: Drinks and snacks, basic food.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Preah: Drinks and snacks, homestay<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Tboung Khla: Drinks and snacks, restaurants<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Khnear: Drinks and snacks, restaurants, homestay</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Day One afternoon / Day Two (with Koh Preah option)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">If you have stayed a night/visited Koh Preah head back across the
river and towards the main road, turning right at the intersection to Tboung Khla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Tboung Khla to
Highway (20km): At Tboung Khla turn left and head east to National Highway 7. This is an undulating dirt road that crosses small rivers and farming settlements (the
dirt road looks as though it carries on south but it does not meet up with the
next village further downriver.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- Highway 7
(18km): At National Highway 7 turn right (cafes here). Cycle about 18km to
junction with a dirt road on your right. There are some big signs there about Ecotourism
and village initiatives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- Cycle SW on
dirt road for 12.5km to riverside village Koh Khnaer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Khnear
Homestay (2016)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>Sleeping </b>- $8 for two people ($4 each). We were directed by some locals to one homestay with a family, but I understand there may be a few. Here is the least well organised of the homestay locations. Our homestay was located on the left a couple of houses down after turning right at the intersection at the end of the road.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Dinner and
Breakfast</span></b><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> were offered at
$4 each per meal which we thought was a bit pricey so we declined and opted to
find our own food in the village. Hopefully this was ok culturally – but we had
an awesome noodle dinner for $1 each just before you got to the final intersection when heading into town on the left and an amazing breakfast for $1 plus packed
lunch for $1 from the breakfast restaurant. This was located on the right hand side a few shops down after turning right at the intersection when heading into town.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Ferry </span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">– again initially quoted as $7 at our homestay so we asked around
the village and found a guy down the street turning left after the intersection when coming into town who would do it for $5 for both of us and 2 bikes.
Our host changed her price to $5 in the morning but by then we had organised
something else. You need to organise your ferry for the following morning so
you can make an early start. We left at 6:30am.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fCyWq0mzKT-FPHsNRxoFgqxr0PX69Nbuv2CWZ7xRXsEQXGwRkbyiER2R4shRJnOoUHz-IuVB6bCaoCH7IE-EdPVAHFp_wxcyarwH7P9SfGfTZN00q6jWIEaxaP3Nc9CTSC0pcRHuOrCe/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fCyWq0mzKT-FPHsNRxoFgqxr0PX69Nbuv2CWZ7xRXsEQXGwRkbyiER2R4shRJnOoUHz-IuVB6bCaoCH7IE-EdPVAHFp_wxcyarwH7P9SfGfTZN00q6jWIEaxaP3Nc9CTSC0pcRHuOrCe/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On the road from Tboung Klua out to the Highway - adventurous!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FUtPc0_aeC1Eo8MASSFfebt6vIcIeISVkS5NkPbq-PRKogpqdA8hyphenhyphen5MpydZ8M8ANCBn-VTA7Im-UkH8M-ilbLjpLW8Gqx9eMDALMsHpdihbitxroA375pf1hZfQ5H-P5FT_xbzkC8ka7/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FUtPc0_aeC1Eo8MASSFfebt6vIcIeISVkS5NkPbq-PRKogpqdA8hyphenhyphen5MpydZ8M8ANCBn-VTA7Im-UkH8M-ilbLjpLW8Gqx9eMDALMsHpdihbitxroA375pf1hZfQ5H-P5FT_xbzkC8ka7/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+005.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Koh Khnear village where you spend one night and organise a boat to take you across </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">to the island. The village soundtrack </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">included generators, grinders, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">dogs howling, midnight cow bells, kids and some rain on the roof!!</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Khnaer to
Koh Phdau (38km):</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- On the island you
have 30km of remote trails and no water. If you are travelling south, you will find the sign below at the canoe drop-off point. Ask the people at the huts in the start for directions. Initially it is just a narrow path through the rice paddies, before turning left after 50m and over a fence into the jungle. We were worried after finding really muddy conditions in this first section, but it did get better!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Follow trail signage south along ox-cart
tracks through the woodland. The track splits numerous times, with usually no
signage, so always choose the most major looking fork and try to keep heading
south! Very sandy and slow. After 30km+ arrive at the first village on the west
coast of the island, continue south passing through several small riverside villages
before reaching Koh Phdau. There are a few ambiguous sign placements and a
few places where it is hard to tell the most major. Blue spray-painted arrows mean nothing. Good
luck!! On our route map we've marked a few positions along the way if you get really lost and have your phone/GPS with you...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRqIR0524oqNKNsmVXuRKWvvYHWxAya-Ngcf9Gf9nN2Ot0Z9GMSnQyq0aikni_IBhI6ztCSfD_fKQ86Qhu2BdzGew3zv-i0s-tNdeIAwXUQmAIxido3il3QZ9vvKfKCzB242UQHP6jN4G/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRqIR0524oqNKNsmVXuRKWvvYHWxAya-Ngcf9Gf9nN2Ot0Z9GMSnQyq0aikni_IBhI6ztCSfD_fKQ86Qhu2BdzGew3zv-i0s-tNdeIAwXUQmAIxido3il3QZ9vvKfKCzB242UQHP6jN4G/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+017.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The first of many signs...!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRmxfyFLDcNK6qu2DCJmDLSaHBwryVCYKFJjm2q9uIGbqe4PLChbhQEociBFp8UDZ1E3zQA5UIsT0zMgJpmtW5hXmF1cRbZrHFMlE0b_Ppd93zVGojZePws2oh0YzLe99D8rjihj1hVAr/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRmxfyFLDcNK6qu2DCJmDLSaHBwryVCYKFJjm2q9uIGbqe4PLChbhQEociBFp8UDZ1E3zQA5UIsT0zMgJpmtW5hXmF1cRbZrHFMlE0b_Ppd93zVGojZePws2oh0YzLe99D8rjihj1hVAr/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+027.jpg" width="540" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The beginning of the trail - thankfully it got easier to ride than this</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uBMLBvqrB6nUCj9BiALWjnZdjXjDfyY8qfwTw75H4Ufc_L-uqrijOx3BANfJJSBckZ3BW8EhCs6NqIZ3-zwcd1yRc24RaXAe4IeEDiR0JWOZYlXFy593g_WBg2xG6rLYFPtBoqT_hXEk/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uBMLBvqrB6nUCj9BiALWjnZdjXjDfyY8qfwTw75H4Ufc_L-uqrijOx3BANfJJSBckZ3BW8EhCs6NqIZ3-zwcd1yRc24RaXAe4IeEDiR0JWOZYlXFy593g_WBg2xG6rLYFPtBoqT_hXEk/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+032.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Look out for signs on the trees, and otherwise just pick the biggest fork</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg08Me7I3CZ0kEGyYsLEMbIV34OCBfAQGWARZKmgdTqPTnqLLQcYCmsoPHZOcgC_JyRdirmYDf9UOevRBdSc-DQcnsm3MQpeWU3RYQgLXL_UnKsLWoYjzJ9LgPF9l0iCTjDPx9MuXHN6Qz_/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg08Me7I3CZ0kEGyYsLEMbIV34OCBfAQGWARZKmgdTqPTnqLLQcYCmsoPHZOcgC_JyRdirmYDf9UOevRBdSc-DQcnsm3MQpeWU3RYQgLXL_UnKsLWoYjzJ9LgPF9l0iCTjDPx9MuXHN6Qz_/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+041.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Maybe less mud in the dry season - it didn't cause too much of an issue </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">for us although </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">we did take our bikes for a bath in the river </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">at the other end. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-DQlJxVaMvdPPPomBqCwok2udMTrpUTWtlUYK01R3Gj9m36-wkV6CnmDFRWBqE5VhxTpSMiGs7wv7rkoV4WhtNWjff1V6TYV0v6jH3jdXGrPmVsN_FNHJlIHeVM2PjE1IkA0AcNxYa-n/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-DQlJxVaMvdPPPomBqCwok2udMTrpUTWtlUYK01R3Gj9m36-wkV6CnmDFRWBqE5VhxTpSMiGs7wv7rkoV4WhtNWjff1V6TYV0v6jH3jdXGrPmVsN_FNHJlIHeVM2PjE1IkA0AcNxYa-n/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+009.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Through the woodlands!</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyJMywyucUDYqGWl9QzFUyqzQJEaW82sV1PzjsewUujN_WZwYBjycCkaN5jN27pHrh9qJrvzaX5AKU2VqA3Ckftmc7EveuHXrYH2iZ0D4qHvQeicODz9Y5omfq1F0rStBjovh3O7U3dcBB/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyJMywyucUDYqGWl9QzFUyqzQJEaW82sV1PzjsewUujN_WZwYBjycCkaN5jN27pHrh9qJrvzaX5AKU2VqA3Ckftmc7EveuHXrYH2iZ0D4qHvQeicODz9Y5omfq1F0rStBjovh3O7U3dcBB/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+015.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Another route decision - notice the signpost though - they were usually well-placed </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">although there were one or two which, </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">left us scratching our head and wondering </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">what direction we should actually go. </span></td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Water </span></b><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">– we carried 7 litres of water plus 2 cans of
sprite and had one litre left at the end. Others we talked to carried 10L.
Depends on the time of year – we hit a good day! It can get very hot!!!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Koh Phdau
Homestays (August 2016)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">As you cycle into the village there are homestays scattered along the road for many kilometers</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><u>Cost</u>: $22 for two
people – ($3 each sleeping, $4 for dinner, $3 for breakfast) No other options
in the village for eating but we got our best homestay food here!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">NB: They also added in an extra $2 extra "community development fee" that they hadn’t told us about until it came to
payment time. This seemed to be a fairly recent addition, which you may wish to query them about, if they forget to explain it to you.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDreSyu_D2NDQf-kDR6oufcVWtpBg4oXwftVMCwkRZvSRnC5zmIZbF26PwxuDDKQwMzEAfWLacTaXTk0xC71TVGqKxrCP3CswtBnlLwujIAgGm8HMyagkgDLQPEmdHR6NMOMClhkv6Q42/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDreSyu_D2NDQf-kDR6oufcVWtpBg4oXwftVMCwkRZvSRnC5zmIZbF26PwxuDDKQwMzEAfWLacTaXTk0xC71TVGqKxrCP3CswtBnlLwujIAgGm8HMyagkgDLQPEmdHR6NMOMClhkv6Q42/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+029.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On the road to somewhere...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcnxOq9TE1wYSEqBH-BJZvU_KvubYkyKx6ydvJPJ_NZHUxNNgO7SifLzVDVGH8ttTSleFKD2-Tf5w-PCMjMAte3Dh74losSZsxOxLLOtexyD3Zer2fn-0SmgPbJYt1qBQVs0eWSRsGMqF/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-20+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcnxOq9TE1wYSEqBH-BJZvU_KvubYkyKx6ydvJPJ_NZHUxNNgO7SifLzVDVGH8ttTSleFKD2-Tf5w-PCMjMAte3Dh74losSZsxOxLLOtexyD3Zer2fn-0SmgPbJYt1qBQVs0eWSRsGMqF/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-20+003.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As you turn left from Samphin headed for the ferry back to the mainland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Koh Phdau to
Kratie: (two options, east bank or west bank) 45 or 55km</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- From Koh Phdau
cycle south for about 4 km to Samphin. Just past a small village pagoda and
school turn left to follow dirt road 2.5km as it bends right and leads to ferry
port. Take the ferry to Sambour - be willing to wait! Ferry cost – less than $1 each (3000R)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">- Sambour to Sandan (12km). </span><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Turn left off the ferry into Sambour village centre, where there's a great market</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">. Otherwise turn left after exiting from the ferry towards the market and take the first right, then take the next right and follow road south towards Kratie. After 12km you reach Sandan village.</span><br />
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- A few
kilometres after Sandan, (in a place maybe called Thum or Kakhot village), you
reach a short dirt trail down to the river on your right, this is the ferry
crossing to Vodthonak on the west bank of the Mekong. If you want to take the
east bank route to Kratie (more built up, seal road), ignore this and continue
to head south through villages to Kratie. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2U0Y0NKbbFEpz210HKKcbaDZkNA6YXk0aS7StwrQhfwc5cdVe6rxCG_nZ7vrg9MgvCR95KNu_SFtFAH2FnCkx85oC-rnKavhUfEP7QyjeYZV0c6x1rDCCw_xvIg6Hgq_L9HCw1GS_q6A/s1600/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2U0Y0NKbbFEpz210HKKcbaDZkNA6YXk0aS7StwrQhfwc5cdVe6rxCG_nZ7vrg9MgvCR95KNu_SFtFAH2FnCkx85oC-rnKavhUfEP7QyjeYZV0c6x1rDCCw_xvIg6Hgq_L9HCw1GS_q6A/s640/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Monks in Samphin, once you cross back to the east side from the island. We stayed east and biked straight to </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Kratie - lots of fun local food and small villages along the way. Tarseal.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">If you want to
take the west bank route to Kratie (quieter gravel), cross here on the
ferry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- Vodthonak to
Praek Prolung (28km): At Vodthanak turn left, cycle about 5km crossing several
wooden bridges then 18km very close to the river bank. Shortly before Saob is a
junction, turn left just after crossing a bridge. Another 3.5km after Saob turn
left to the ferry at Praek Prolung. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">- Praek Prolung
to Kratie (3km): Take the ferry across the Mekong to Peam Te. Follow your noses
north up river to Kratie. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><u>Accommodation in
Kratie:</u> Plenty, we stayed in Mouha Outdom Hotel, a 5min walk north of the
market on the main riverside road. A basic private double room with fan but no WiFi in the room for $5 (2016) - most of the other options were around $7. There was great food options at the market, like advocado shakes (4000R), multi choice options with rice (usually about 4000R each), buy bananas, etc...</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Kratie to Kampong
Cham – 120km<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">From Kratie you
can choose east or west bank. As at August 2016, advice was the East side was a
good road for 60km south of Kratie before becoming very muddy and bumpy. We
took the Westside, so from Kratie, cycle south for 5km to a bridge across an
inlet. Turn right and make your way down to the river and the ferry to Praek
Prolung. There are restaurants at the ferry landing on the West side. 120km to Kampong Cham, mostly following through old
style villages. Good dirt road for 50km and then good tar seal. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Plenty of
food options and drink places along the way. At 75km the road goes steeply up a
hill into a rubber plantation. It is about a 3km square detour but probably
easy. We looked at google and saw a more direct route straight down the side of
the river, however, the road deteriorated, became too loose and steep to ride,
but rejoined the tar seal quickly. The last 33km is a bit of a drag as you are
back on a main road, but generally fine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><u>Accommodation in
Kampong Cham:</u> Plenty, we stayed in Mekong Crossing Hotel, one of our fanciest
rooms, fan only, for $8. We grabbed some food down by the market and took it to the Mekong riverside with some frozen watermelon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkvZKsZ9MfomFq6pg0UTbHd6Q0jowBjUyvoObAcqIC8aF7XU5aj-krKHTdFN2awNxPWqv7hQQzjZ0Q_qicGoVG4ByNp2Iu0GpKgnfX5tXe1-vidmpBFMON1ZAz7u2moVs5GRLHRFzHCWV/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkvZKsZ9MfomFq6pg0UTbHd6Q0jowBjUyvoObAcqIC8aF7XU5aj-krKHTdFN2awNxPWqv7hQQzjZ0Q_qicGoVG4ByNp2Iu0GpKgnfX5tXe1-vidmpBFMON1ZAz7u2moVs5GRLHRFzHCWV/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+002.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A larger ferry this time round across to the west-side.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQnt6rxULrf54KX9YYjWVAtuKiS-FWTpGaJKsxmwFbZ9j60NChZJdnfXCDifQuFGF0lVp9ZMXEPKfBr1vUvJUkDHNt4oE5M4QVQ2iXYdMvRB_VoUilZeoXHAyjgtZNDRHn-V5pEkya1Qy/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQnt6rxULrf54KX9YYjWVAtuKiS-FWTpGaJKsxmwFbZ9j60NChZJdnfXCDifQuFGF0lVp9ZMXEPKfBr1vUvJUkDHNt4oE5M4QVQ2iXYdMvRB_VoUilZeoXHAyjgtZNDRHn-V5pEkya1Qy/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+012.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Awesome gravel road for 50kms after Kampong Cham on the westside</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fxJs6B-qwOpV_yWQy_k2LbLlVUNpbCTtsx_mxPySGZ_TTIk8HvRgu0VUjgQ8AU1W8U0gUJNdmQ732bPHcYk41ydFG6P0OltuoHlOCJ3qE1YEYR7H2giGFBywwuRU1zG1KHt1lLnmy0Ax/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-21+001+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fxJs6B-qwOpV_yWQy_k2LbLlVUNpbCTtsx_mxPySGZ_TTIk8HvRgu0VUjgQ8AU1W8U0gUJNdmQ732bPHcYk41ydFG6P0OltuoHlOCJ3qE1YEYR7H2giGFBywwuRU1zG1KHt1lLnmy0Ax/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-21+001+%25282%2529.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Don't believe Google that this is the main road - small but fun detour</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUHSas2A9lS0ouAd3Ry5uE_0E0vmme6FBacrkLuZ9W_8gjDOB9fAKEZsMrTaX2jahyphenhyphenx5yCvwZQp8yZeA3rqPjmoczYUirbkwApQXTIPnoDb0Srztwyd9mO-eIilNaGzgClDJa-TbQkqAOh/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUHSas2A9lS0ouAd3Ry5uE_0E0vmme6FBacrkLuZ9W_8gjDOB9fAKEZsMrTaX2jahyphenhyphenx5yCvwZQp8yZeA3rqPjmoczYUirbkwApQXTIPnoDb0Srztwyd9mO-eIilNaGzgClDJa-TbQkqAOh/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+077.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">About to rejoin the tarseal at the end of our wee detour. If you want a </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">bit of fun, go this way, </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">otherwise the tarseal would be quite fine!!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">To Phnom Penh –
94 kms</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Many options. The main highway (6/7) on the west side is apparently very average due to it's busyness. A local described the east side as shorter but in worse condition and the westside small roads as longer but generally slightly better condition. We
followed Google’s “walking route” on the east side, which was the shortest option. The road conditions are VERY variable depending on the time of year etc, what were amazing conditions for us, might be super washed out or under construction for you.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">From the riverside in
Kampong Cham, we cycled south past the main road leading to the bridge. We were
on road 223, which followed the west side for 20kms. At 20kms there was a bridge
and we turned left just before it down to the river to a ferry crossing to the east side</span></span> <span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">(1000R each incl bikes Aug2016).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Upon reaching the west bank there is a great
noodle soup place just as you come up to the main road on the left. There were plenty
of other food options along the way, so you don’t need to carry much. We were on
an OK gravel road for about 10km and then the road turned really, really awful for about 20km.
Rough, loose, corrugated gravel. They were doing this road up slowly, so it may improve... Thankfully, at 53km from KC the road turned to
lovely tar seal again and it is amazing! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We followed this road all the way down
to the main intersection with the road from Vietnam heading across the bridge to Phnom Penh. We carried on straight ahead following the Mekong for
another 20km until our final ferry crossing. To reach the ferry, turn left opposite the Svaychroum Pagoda onto a dirt road that crosses a causeway. Ferry cost 1500R for 2 people & bikes (Aug 2016). After heading up from this you follow the trafffic round to the left before you cross a bridge into the edge of central Phnom Penh. It's amazing going from quiet country roads to a humming large city in an instant!</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1pr-vu7ty7TEbh3xuIe4ch4erl4NmfhsWMWzc8Sp6c5Q36r5Kfm04ojhkNRMMY7wjYnrZlh5PVWGTzLEfj90hn6uu-qIrae9hhfuKbKNqUYaxwjFM2-O-hmH32lPgAJhNXVgwORU_LQQ/s1600/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1pr-vu7ty7TEbh3xuIe4ch4erl4NmfhsWMWzc8Sp6c5Q36r5Kfm04ojhkNRMMY7wjYnrZlh5PVWGTzLEfj90hn6uu-qIrae9hhfuKbKNqUYaxwjFM2-O-hmH32lPgAJhNXVgwORU_LQQ/s640/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+024.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cranking (hot) market about 40km from Kampong Cham on the east side. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOdxRvG8VRxZKujPiJre6aKJ8P6lE1QUORsJqyHQGlDoLQ3-GhOyHuM_PijZn1WabbERpSeqXuV13fsb968AIRnHmlY6JUmq-tmkScT2l6QRE-o9zQ77tpsGcNeB1UQaZSrLGuGNMBT3N/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOdxRvG8VRxZKujPiJre6aKJ8P6lE1QUORsJqyHQGlDoLQ3-GhOyHuM_PijZn1WabbERpSeqXuV13fsb968AIRnHmlY6JUmq-tmkScT2l6QRE-o9zQ77tpsGcNeB1UQaZSrLGuGNMBT3N/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+002.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Death Road, which in Aug 2016 was most definitely under construction. If you can </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">hack it for 20km, the rest of the day is a nice ride!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrxRkF7FLnjtrP3TDYzH6qDdhtsVTe962vBPNxOZVPKeEe-_7-5c-lVbCyfhcAPmv58Crkrn1bDGtbvI07B8NJ2ypoTHFwN7fmx03kZSh_6lzYBUKSGanBgO1Bt0HnaMbmlLg7cClrZoz/s1600/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrxRkF7FLnjtrP3TDYzH6qDdhtsVTe962vBPNxOZVPKeEe-_7-5c-lVbCyfhcAPmv58Crkrn1bDGtbvI07B8NJ2ypoTHFwN7fmx03kZSh_6lzYBUKSGanBgO1Bt0HnaMbmlLg7cClrZoz/s640/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The final ferry across to Phnom Penh from the east side</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Please add your comments / any amendments to this, so we can keep it current!! </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Safe journeys!!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "century gothic" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Andy and Miriam (with a lot of input from Anna and Ollie, Lisi Aimer and Jonathan Barford)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-73720055311801301722016-09-19T22:03:00.003-07:002016-09-19T22:03:21.536-07:00The Hope of Changing Times - Cambodia and "Flame" in Phnom Penh<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b><u>Reader warning: </u> </b>The start of this blog might be hard to read for some - It <b>starts </b>with some <b>hard sights and questions marks</b> and <b>ends </b>with some awesome stories of <b>HOPE </b>from up & coming Khmer leaders & communities in Phnom Penh. <br />
<br />
As I wander through the remains of ''The Killings Fields", I can hardly imagine the horrors that went on here. The deceit. The wasted lives of thousands. The cries of people being muffled by cherry music and the smell of decaying bodies being masked by DDT. I can hardly imagine what it would have been like to be loaded into a truck from Tuol Sleng (number one torture prison), hoping against hope that the next destination was going to be better than the previous months, only to find yourself at the end of the road. Surrounded by strangers. Strangers, but your own people. As we walked past mass graves, and the infamous Killing Tree, my eyes were drawn to the hundreds of colourful bracelets that cover the bark and the fences - a reminder of what childhood should consist of. Not brutal torture and murder.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ftRi2preIE2DsGQsSc2lpgqAEi2GT8czfScIUpo4Fu0U0MSNKjYhCQH_seRGDtMs_2aNIvyAqkmJhdg4PWUWHuzuNd5ukRN-aStK8REZXz0HVOhkyQ6dXalAxd1kbpYMvIjNrmGkSCjf/s1600/Killing+Fields+MM+2016-09-03+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ftRi2preIE2DsGQsSc2lpgqAEi2GT8czfScIUpo4Fu0U0MSNKjYhCQH_seRGDtMs_2aNIvyAqkmJhdg4PWUWHuzuNd5ukRN-aStK8REZXz0HVOhkyQ6dXalAxd1kbpYMvIjNrmGkSCjf/s640/Killing+Fields+MM+2016-09-03+007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colourful beads in memory of children who dies here.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwOdT4gI29unINMChvRLEuKGuF5r86no2UC62TYZbFrvaVSaakpRjdu_tOF_hw6oRK0malGug_3iNOlc70t4lLCfi-Vq4_6F3hRh1TCeJCuyFrVbAL6u7NClkSTYKA5BkXsPOPa-JtLmI/s1600/20160903_095706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwOdT4gI29unINMChvRLEuKGuF5r86no2UC62TYZbFrvaVSaakpRjdu_tOF_hw6oRK0malGug_3iNOlc70t4lLCfi-Vq4_6F3hRh1TCeJCuyFrVbAL6u7NClkSTYKA5BkXsPOPa-JtLmI/s640/20160903_095706.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out over mass graves at Choeng Ek, The Killing Fields</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMA-BDLmSuoGDmiE9H7vLpMGhSNoLYZAcMmEHXjRb1cgVkII6vQAWSr_5hlNKFIEljhruriIHV9DOy82yHkggl5vp3KgCFdGAGLUkrPHVGB-ZmlmwTaTP57KM1RhoRXXhFF9lUoUzW3SWk/s1600/20160903_102824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMA-BDLmSuoGDmiE9H7vLpMGhSNoLYZAcMmEHXjRb1cgVkII6vQAWSr_5hlNKFIEljhruriIHV9DOy82yHkggl5vp3KgCFdGAGLUkrPHVGB-ZmlmwTaTP57KM1RhoRXXhFF9lUoUzW3SWk/s400/20160903_102824.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the memorial - thousands of skulls are preserved and<br />
organised by age and cause of death .</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Despite the history, the Killing Fields today is a peaceful memorial - you can see the hollows in the ground that were mass graves and you can stand where buildings once stood. Despite being right there, and despite how awful it was, I still somehow felt removed. From the Killing Fields, we biked into visit Tuol Sleng - one of the main torture prisons of the Khmer Rogue. Here, the peeling paint, the steel beds, the hand-shackles and gallows that strung men up still stand in place. The windows are still covered in barbed wire so you can't jump out. The cells are still there. And the photo's. Photos of those who passed through the prison, who suffered various means of torture, who were forced to sign false confessions and who were eventually sent off to be executed. It is a harsh reminder of what really happened.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0OsnKNJx3RnXSF8A08Ufy4b02og55b2Erveq6P0WWAT4J-1w0af0SxD6d9746YuqA0l5RHXfvllh6Vpl8h8PVFWJWSk5OXhXeIvDAxlSMCznyq6FNgCQ5FlOJUlhiWWek8zXe0kO6u99/s1600/20160903_124106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0OsnKNJx3RnXSF8A08Ufy4b02og55b2Erveq6P0WWAT4J-1w0af0SxD6d9746YuqA0l5RHXfvllh6Vpl8h8PVFWJWSk5OXhXeIvDAxlSMCznyq6FNgCQ5FlOJUlhiWWek8zXe0kO6u99/s640/20160903_124106.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Tuol Sleng Prison - torture rooms</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmP8IdvbQrW7Q0nll3PChQhcrdGVt-k1GbjL5LztLDx7zOewCmmBu53tDit3eXruYYF1rrVuIBU75Rn2B7XQmHuicZIybgJ6W5QNKXu-7tix5naR6eN3Zx1Ao1FulsV_9How8j5yPuKiau/s1600/20160903_124838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmP8IdvbQrW7Q0nll3PChQhcrdGVt-k1GbjL5LztLDx7zOewCmmBu53tDit3eXruYYF1rrVuIBU75Rn2B7XQmHuicZIybgJ6W5QNKXu-7tix5naR6eN3Zx1Ao1FulsV_9How8j5yPuKiau/s640/20160903_124838.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old school, it is hard to imagine what went on here. Note the playground bars under the tree. <br />
The big metal frame was used to string people up as part of the torture procedures.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrpP2CZQAfoo5igwrv464gJYLu0frOshAZPe6DqVi2gqfV5C8EvENyOL3rfjhyphenhyphen5i-GHnDuLKH20F6L66Q-gyexVOwgqgG0jbSUH2A-K2v95rnBhXYgITU1xvo1UWynl48-31wJisinlYy/s1600/20160903_134552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrpP2CZQAfoo5igwrv464gJYLu0frOshAZPe6DqVi2gqfV5C8EvENyOL3rfjhyphenhyphen5i-GHnDuLKH20F6L66Q-gyexVOwgqgG0jbSUH2A-K2v95rnBhXYgITU1xvo1UWynl48-31wJisinlYy/s640/20160903_134552.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old and creepy!</td></tr>
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Among the photo's, my eye caught on a young Kerry Hamill, a 27 yr old kiwi guy, sailing round the world. He and two friends sailed into Cambodian waters and were taken captive. They spent two months at Tuol Sleng, getting the same treatment as locals, before being executed also. As i stared at his picture, my audio head set had the voice of Rob Hamill, addressing the Tuol Sleng commander at his trial, in 2013. Incredible hearing a kiwi accent caught up in this all. It seemed so unfair - and yet I was so challenged by the fact that I felt more emotional over this one kiwi guy than I had over the thousands of Cambodians. It really hit home for me - so so so many wasted lives.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgjR8NVc_h8reoOphvweQQ0WmwSN1o45H5n6bRaqhmTfI2QlYqWQGz6_kw1Xjp5LolLqcjZOYHV3vkvB29uL7AD7g_ENIPI2NbyDELQX_9AJBUie-Rd5kmVPWwNPcBqgbjb-cB1Yt5wma/s1600/20160903_135857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgjR8NVc_h8reoOphvweQQ0WmwSN1o45H5n6bRaqhmTfI2QlYqWQGz6_kw1Xjp5LolLqcjZOYHV3vkvB29uL7AD7g_ENIPI2NbyDELQX_9AJBUie-Rd5kmVPWwNPcBqgbjb-cB1Yt5wma/s320/20160903_135857.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only light relief of the day...</td></tr>
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As we debriefed this experience over the coming days we talked about the seeming reluctance of "the West", or other countries to get involved, both during the Pol Pot regime but also afterwards. It was too hard, not politically correct, not visible enough, just not on the priority list. For 10 years after Pol Pot was overthrown, the UN still recognised the Khmer Rogue as the legitimate government in Cambodia and so kept their seat at UN meetings. It took years and years before a Court was set up to bring justice. Kerry Hamill's dad petitioned the NZ government time and time again to try and bring justice but was denied repeatedly. I wondered what things we are turning a blind eye too today. Imagine if today, hundreds of lives were being wasted, unfairly treated, tortured and killed. What would we do?<br />
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And then I thought of Human Trafficking. And Syrian Refugees. And numerous other examples of horrendous conflict in which hundred and thousands of people are being affected and how it is so easy just to carry on with our own life. For me, it's got to be pretty visible before I actively do something about it. I felt Convicted. Called. Challenged to think through practical ways I can be more involved in the solution to some of these modern day tragedies. <br />
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Perhaps this thought process is no surprise considering we have spent the last month volunteering with an organisation who are actively working to prevent trafficking, exploitation and injustices within the poorest communities in Phnom Penh. It has been such a privilege to spend time getting to know these people and this place. Flame Cambodia's tag line is "the full circle" in that, the young people who run their activity programs have come from tough backgrounds themselves, but are now helping to sow new seeds of hope into slum communities that they might once have been a part of. As they have found hope, they now seek to share it with others. So inspirational!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZtYWJNHTjVlCORAuHZruWawQIxQ58AGUdLzo8X98F53Mor6XaK1edEmXoJqs06yx99mfYBymJWPigy6mrqOAGBubcKOYK6GD-JYT4VV6ne3rSqV3utLehywelR6Wf7RVmkFpZn8zWQk7p/s1600/full+circle.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZtYWJNHTjVlCORAuHZruWawQIxQ58AGUdLzo8X98F53Mor6XaK1edEmXoJqs06yx99mfYBymJWPigy6mrqOAGBubcKOYK6GD-JYT4VV6ne3rSqV3utLehywelR6Wf7RVmkFpZn8zWQk7p/s320/full+circle.jpe" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHX9GH0iJjN2OZKCpFuOiGGNpcdnCrBUDG_5j-QMLp6Nko7_GIvfkp_hjzXeUXYL1Ali_2PlpMPCKXANKxIL60-l52H3E4qYMJXYFnA0FTmmJo8IXExNVNMtIffJ_OwTbOFY1ZAZlnTUl/s1600/FlameCambodiaWeb.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHX9GH0iJjN2OZKCpFuOiGGNpcdnCrBUDG_5j-QMLp6Nko7_GIvfkp_hjzXeUXYL1Ali_2PlpMPCKXANKxIL60-l52H3E4qYMJXYFnA0FTmmJo8IXExNVNMtIffJ_OwTbOFY1ZAZlnTUl/s640/FlameCambodiaWeb.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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For more info on the who and what, check their website out here by clicking on this link. <br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://www.flamecambodia.org/">www.flamecambodia.org</a>. </span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
If what Flame does connects with you, we would be 100% behind you if you were keen to support them. They have some very experienced Kiwi's at the helm! For anyone interested, or any doctors out there, the Medical Tuk Tuk and drugs it provides is currently not funded - so donations for that or regular donations would be really gratefully accepted by these guys. They have big dreams! We're big fans!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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For those interested in hearing some of the stories from a couple of the these amazing Khmer leaders we were with, check out these links:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwnjD6BBa-BWzTV9hubFwpOHDMXEtZdccNqLmbuHXmWJMJPtA5J8piW7ufrMihyMQMFIaxEHZ2F984b-D-3Htbj5h9stlk5LEIycq872Ibt29mbxBbs8QQnmcjmZbngQ4gC_0yklo7xqs/s1600/Longdy%2527s+story.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwnjD6BBa-BWzTV9hubFwpOHDMXEtZdccNqLmbuHXmWJMJPtA5J8piW7ufrMihyMQMFIaxEHZ2F984b-D-3Htbj5h9stlk5LEIycq872Ibt29mbxBbs8QQnmcjmZbngQ4gC_0yklo7xqs/s400/Longdy%2527s+story.JPG" width="400" /></a> </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flamecambodia.org/longdy">http://www.flamecambodia.org/longdy</a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtxIPYtpx7DHpczG7ffGUlX6zBTodmEVvtPYzCIef3z4i-xjOQOa4xHMMPiRs7e99GyeuRFWpNNwu1zt2avvZsEOWSVavHqOMq0HXE9Mfw-6_x0wRelyBrQm05Gn44tZvaXDawF_3HUjz/s1600/Rithy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtxIPYtpx7DHpczG7ffGUlX6zBTodmEVvtPYzCIef3z4i-xjOQOa4xHMMPiRs7e99GyeuRFWpNNwu1zt2avvZsEOWSVavHqOMq0HXE9Mfw-6_x0wRelyBrQm05Gn44tZvaXDawF_3HUjz/s320/Rithy.png" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flamecambodia.org/rithy">http://www.flamecambodia.org/rithy</a></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Photo Journey</h3>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Below is a bit of a photo journey through some of the things we have been involved with over the last few weeks. Feel the love!!</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHcj4q96h10cW5qEkVpegYuq5kkFwTzLnOeCqhKQSrjTQTodyaPwvMYP5aMMuE6BsPTgx1j39_gYVYA9t61I0LL9UIHz3EAtv61B3vLI_13jshMAeRcv7S_ldz3A1j-V-_coLH9FmLC6q4/s1600/2016-09-15+Cambodia+AJM+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHcj4q96h10cW5qEkVpegYuq5kkFwTzLnOeCqhKQSrjTQTodyaPwvMYP5aMMuE6BsPTgx1j39_gYVYA9t61I0LL9UIHz3EAtv61B3vLI_13jshMAeRcv7S_ldz3A1j-V-_coLH9FmLC6q4/s640/2016-09-15+Cambodia+AJM+003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the young adults we ran English classes for (good hang out times!) here at Flame. <br />
These guys all have inspirational stories and are doing incredible things in their communities. Respect! <br />
(L to R: Paroath, Channa,Yeang, Hean, Esther, Tuol, Miri, Choryee, Andy, <br />
Deth, Thea, Thai (taking photo) Kakara and Top).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2yIBV_vgPmH5PzttDBCw4an3vrjhzibhWLvbJajlihSlwZk2Zm2EIq7jMJtj8-YRvtHzsEIXsE6K2RvzDbR9Fiud1ZBu77iX3A9qSKpCnxa-nsa2kT_hvr_05Dr6vpF7-lgDq9SIInrE/s1600/14340084_950270631744815_2008749983_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2yIBV_vgPmH5PzttDBCw4an3vrjhzibhWLvbJajlihSlwZk2Zm2EIq7jMJtj8-YRvtHzsEIXsE6K2RvzDbR9Fiud1ZBu77iX3A9qSKpCnxa-nsa2kT_hvr_05Dr6vpF7-lgDq9SIInrE/s640/14340084_950270631744815_2008749983_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new project which Andy helped out on a "Book Tuk Tuk"- taking the reading to the people!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4ORbfFZ5_RqW32Csgr3DnSRGtAPV3dvwng_zbsjAOQGU4flIhucQmXbmc2j7AesGpqShvCJa-gcdy7cQi4qIt8VwbnN2rOK3h29_MNyuvIoTS0A8UqzLGSm_FPDc1rNbXjNChgB0QULl/s1600/10_MG_6147+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4ORbfFZ5_RqW32Csgr3DnSRGtAPV3dvwng_zbsjAOQGU4flIhucQmXbmc2j7AesGpqShvCJa-gcdy7cQi4qIt8VwbnN2rOK3h29_MNyuvIoTS0A8UqzLGSm_FPDc1rNbXjNChgB0QULl/s640/10_MG_6147+copy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's first outing at Sensok. Photo Cred: Sam Kemp</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQH5Jmr3lB8WZ-W10gbG3q72OuP_D3XBXY7PY3mhjMYjFYaT8QtWC5hDu_m95eMtbp0Z-3zFgq0kvK9m6-Aj9SQ_s2rKAvc1eugeX_-r_6cworWXc-yBAQ41Pfk68pzN3sLx3JVrIEXke/s1600/5_MG_6072+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdQH5Jmr3lB8WZ-W10gbG3q72OuP_D3XBXY7PY3mhjMYjFYaT8QtWC5hDu_m95eMtbp0Z-3zFgq0kvK9m6-Aj9SQ_s2rKAvc1eugeX_-r_6cworWXc-yBAQ41Pfk68pzN3sLx3JVrIEXke/s640/5_MG_6072+copy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teacher Houn Thy who runs the Sensok Activity Centre has just welcomed his new baby boy into the world!<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: Sam Kemp</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBKPgmWPE07VLE3Qkv6ZCpPQ4jO6xjOWxLBCZwpauWNmUAXVeM-KkAVEL5XeVM3mzL-TbGgMj9UgSqH-u7Y1Nlur3vC-UMts-3H13J3ZYpt_TsRiHl6Sg3JFJAcym83IHK1k8Jmlq88dE/s1600/3_MG_6124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBKPgmWPE07VLE3Qkv6ZCpPQ4jO6xjOWxLBCZwpauWNmUAXVeM-KkAVEL5XeVM3mzL-TbGgMj9UgSqH-u7Y1Nlur3vC-UMts-3H13J3ZYpt_TsRiHl6Sg3JFJAcym83IHK1k8Jmlq88dE/s640/3_MG_6124.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids loving life! Yuus!!! <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: Sam Kemp</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSQ7PegoKA7b3CDWDRopirg2i8xMjNShAFLKuZ3TRuTgZLMj_w7Bm9KbdEbM30EHm9Q-iT2gAnsd-ttWblo-1f7AwbpBHtMf37fRFGar-wKTEuroKACvUyVDf1XdY3uDkZTFttOcWGp4T/s1600/14191636_1090804441012833_1193911120_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSQ7PegoKA7b3CDWDRopirg2i8xMjNShAFLKuZ3TRuTgZLMj_w7Bm9KbdEbM30EHm9Q-iT2gAnsd-ttWblo-1f7AwbpBHtMf37fRFGar-wKTEuroKACvUyVDf1XdY3uDkZTFttOcWGp4T/s640/14191636_1090804441012833_1193911120_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rithy (in black) handing out Soy milk to kids in one of the slum communities.<br />
Apparently there are 401 slums in Phnom Penh and these guys work in 8 of them. A good start!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwqweVUof-ATK8kqupCWM1EDiqp_Q5ynVWNKIYQD-co0cPqR9SKUSgYk3cFsPM6sTRWutFjtNdeu3vbsEPxCBg_mZbexJoIunUmcZtA-vniT_q1XKcwa310InsmFNxr8pIqBV-oj9k-A4/s1600/14285132_1190452454350290_65709110_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwqweVUof-ATK8kqupCWM1EDiqp_Q5ynVWNKIYQD-co0cPqR9SKUSgYk3cFsPM6sTRWutFjtNdeu3vbsEPxCBg_mZbexJoIunUmcZtA-vniT_q1XKcwa310InsmFNxr8pIqBV-oj9k-A4/s640/14285132_1190452454350290_65709110_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids getting Soy milk. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkDuvJ0Nlv6Q9HqY2McOUprchsl9XNdKOUBPEAcuyTBz7BbmrGYOAv-XT8lZjEMoVNGt_8RCkhS39xR9RI40JWrlGUk3SYkj2sO4Knqzl-tImqQup27dV6UUDbJXrJxULv8BuL2CnAwvC/s1600/14215630_1190452944350241_2127814842_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkDuvJ0Nlv6Q9HqY2McOUprchsl9XNdKOUBPEAcuyTBz7BbmrGYOAv-XT8lZjEMoVNGt_8RCkhS39xR9RI40JWrlGUk3SYkj2sO4Knqzl-tImqQup27dV6UUDbJXrJxULv8BuL2CnAwvC/s640/14215630_1190452944350241_2127814842_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhhhh yeah!! <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHvb23JCdQIg7XpZK7i_8pJaaDYOBaM3fj8VFxr9P0pEwleqjkobPmLcuO_8pgQMBaBAQ4jm127NBC-SRzCuvchZ1aLOuL20rFYtlt7MfRAqK50TkALLVJ0KDrcHHlm_SIhi-0GtsAuXi/s1600/14284880_1190452907683578_2005358800_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHvb23JCdQIg7XpZK7i_8pJaaDYOBaM3fj8VFxr9P0pEwleqjkobPmLcuO_8pgQMBaBAQ4jm127NBC-SRzCuvchZ1aLOuL20rFYtlt7MfRAqK50TkALLVJ0KDrcHHlm_SIhi-0GtsAuXi/s640/14284880_1190452907683578_2005358800_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had a few good monsoon downpours, but still the people come! <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lmHu5Wscr77bv0x_gxOKMkHYTa1dSsTk5e74UtwNZlpiT4IhTgB4CN1YFyYKr1gLNGTgCOQgg77ownlbH8TuB5KeTZMS82MmM7Ex-Gq3zGfhxuGl1eJ_MdspqxS4ol2-HVIlaTYpDaix/s1600/14315985_1644322292563842_1968667182_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lmHu5Wscr77bv0x_gxOKMkHYTa1dSsTk5e74UtwNZlpiT4IhTgB4CN1YFyYKr1gLNGTgCOQgg77ownlbH8TuB5KeTZMS82MmM7Ex-Gq3zGfhxuGl1eJ_MdspqxS4ol2-HVIlaTYpDaix/s640/14315985_1644322292563842_1968667182_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unloading for another Soy milk delivery session and kids club at Sensok - from left Thea, Deth and Tuol.<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ku357hk65FfwRUT4tPX33-BiWKB3UzeRKeYFesUfbISTb9Uv5TgkEaylTT4-VlOV7L0X9O_wFA_fpA8w3FrZL6iEKZXYfSk94u93cmthRIchBmFfdjDQngDt9X2hyMZnZjKZdx109SUL/s1600/14315479_1190463544349181_422656851_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ku357hk65FfwRUT4tPX33-BiWKB3UzeRKeYFesUfbISTb9Uv5TgkEaylTT4-VlOV7L0X9O_wFA_fpA8w3FrZL6iEKZXYfSk94u93cmthRIchBmFfdjDQngDt9X2hyMZnZjKZdx109SUL/s640/14315479_1190463544349181_422656851_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids Club! Top right corner is Mak, our Cambodian mum who cooked amazingly delicious food for us each night.<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7DNrDOFZE23nSkLeFeuO7CqXBl3Ih-evGgv2R2JBFaoRHkTChahWRfXvgt7L50DXMMbRpolq-k-orweO1bUF2KA_0eCV7fpFz30tinfcKc-H_KlF_qjBSiHmM1vO0-ETroswzoFFRiMw/s1600/14339297_1190460337682835_1312509189_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7DNrDOFZE23nSkLeFeuO7CqXBl3Ih-evGgv2R2JBFaoRHkTChahWRfXvgt7L50DXMMbRpolq-k-orweO1bUF2KA_0eCV7fpFz30tinfcKc-H_KlF_qjBSiHmM1vO0-ETroswzoFFRiMw/s640/14339297_1190460337682835_1312509189_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chanthy rocking the kids club at Sensok. Sothy in the background. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBPxWCuSEOUGnmcXG5J81CAP64Z0Y3c4VUj8lzBXcPkI-MVcbizN5-ArXXjh-jdFF0T0EXmIFPWzuIoMuFQocFu41zgZ1tMaEJqQet42gr08THOMG5x9XF_NarAGpAuj1JHAYXf8rBEsk/s1600/14339447_1190465894348946_1952145433_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBPxWCuSEOUGnmcXG5J81CAP64Z0Y3c4VUj8lzBXcPkI-MVcbizN5-ArXXjh-jdFF0T0EXmIFPWzuIoMuFQocFu41zgZ1tMaEJqQet42gr08THOMG5x9XF_NarAGpAuj1JHAYXf8rBEsk/s640/14339447_1190465894348946_1952145433_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging out at Sensok. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Cred: So Esther</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pjsJJ0MxMy35wqLtlrJFN38zoBM7jznP1ZobhQp-vVrQhlOSANNesdARHQQ4SSw3pl9TbgVZxgEUWmPHPwzpZyuy3Nxf7YkHb7KIi1tKlsRIHY3dDgkCr1BEbFoxdCNX3XDbEZA-47O5/s1600/14374712_1104259953000615_962324244_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pjsJJ0MxMy35wqLtlrJFN38zoBM7jznP1ZobhQp-vVrQhlOSANNesdARHQQ4SSw3pl9TbgVZxgEUWmPHPwzpZyuy3Nxf7YkHb7KIi1tKlsRIHY3dDgkCr1BEbFoxdCNX3XDbEZA-47O5/s640/14374712_1104259953000615_962324244_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rithy in his element out on the Mobile Medical Tuktuk - taking the doctor to the slums! <br />
Flame has Rithy, a qualified Doctor and Sothy, a Yr 5 med student who head out several<br />
times each week to help slum communities access health care.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMpX9QfYuN4_GPN1JfIWsL85SFAo_0v0yxKrl21kzIXQqkGnkJ4XiERMIJE0eBjvIPTMa7vYEY3t7_2Xyy3kBjSZblvfEYRGKt94-ewRT6fajzAB6VqE_48C1eUkdyCqYZhCpvSRdaFMQ/s1600/20160901_150733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMpX9QfYuN4_GPN1JfIWsL85SFAo_0v0yxKrl21kzIXQqkGnkJ4XiERMIJE0eBjvIPTMa7vYEY3t7_2Xyy3kBjSZblvfEYRGKt94-ewRT6fajzAB6VqE_48C1eUkdyCqYZhCpvSRdaFMQ/s640/20160901_150733.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craftanoon! Makara, Choryee and Hean starting to make 400 beaded Christmas banners for a church in NZ,<br />
as a way to support themselves while they study. One of Miri's projects while here.</td></tr>
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<br />
What a month it has been here in Phnom Penh!! We really had no idea what we might get up to while we stopped here and we have really enjoyed the change from the bike, to being in one place getting to know people. While we haven't really been on the cold face ourselves, it's been a real privilege seeking to support those who are. They are the heroes! We feel like we have learnt a lot! We will be taking home many good memories and will have some good thinking around practical ways of serving when back in NZ to do!!<br />
<br />
For us, now, it's through to Bangkok where we put our bikes in boxes and store them for the flight home. Then onto Kolkata, India for the next little adventure!<br />
<br />
Thanks for walking the journey with us!<br />
<br />
Arohanui,<br />
Miri (& Andy)<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-18535306689999232062016-09-06T03:49:00.000-07:002016-09-06T03:49:03.578-07:00Riding the banks of the Mekong - Mekong Discovery Trail Cambodia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Summary</b><br />
- O<span style="font-size: x-small;">ur final week cycling!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- After leaving a lot of our gear in Phnom Penh, we bussed to Stung Treng and followed the Mekong River as closely as we could all the way back to PP</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- Spent nights in Koh Preah, Koh Khnhear, Koh Phdau, Kratie and Kampong Cham - cycling route description & detailed map to follow!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- We enjoyed following the 'Mekong Discovery Trail', practicing our khmer and eating local food!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- Currently spending 4 weeks volunteering with Flame in Phnom Pehn (<a href="http://www.flamecambodia.org/">www.flamecambodia.org</a>) These guys are worth checking out we reckon!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span><br />
<br />
It was 10am and we'd reached a fork in the road. Straight ahead to stay on the east side of the river, or turn right to a ferry landing, a small boat and an unknown adventure on an island in the middle of the Mekong.<br />
<br />
We turned right.<br />
<br />
It was Day One of our final week of cycling - a week that would take us on variety of small gravel paths, dirt roads, remote villages and even some single track mountain biking whilst staying as close to the Mekong River as possible. In preparation for this, we had significantly reduced what we were carrying on the bikes, had scoured the internet and cycle blogs for information and had quizzed every local we could find. It sounded like it had the potential to be a great week.....or a terrible one!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBpBaGRNppiX18TRl86Dhyphenhyphen0VgQ8tIIR-9UWpqRNTDeuBH7s6l4cd4uIZvycZKo4kG1cTj270fhYtPafqd0lc6B_TMv4QPAVeJupRvOsNGl13Mn6D4Sg2GbUjBmKmEGoHXDgKeUh984ntm/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBpBaGRNppiX18TRl86Dhyphenhyphen0VgQ8tIIR-9UWpqRNTDeuBH7s6l4cd4uIZvycZKo4kG1cTj270fhYtPafqd0lc6B_TMv4QPAVeJupRvOsNGl13Mn6D4Sg2GbUjBmKmEGoHXDgKeUh984ntm/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+010.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stung Treng Market and the start of our Cambodian Mekong Adventure</td></tr>
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And so, with a fair amount of adventurous intrigue and enthusiasm for the unknown we turned right, off the main road for our first village homestay on a tiny island in the middle of the mighty Mekong River. We felt ready - the previous day we had stocked up on bananas, a pineapple and a packet of Oreo cookies (our cycling necessities!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMNgZNH1WCwQgO4NDB5b5EBhCtHvSJYVwxpAGvsqffyeVK6Pz6XHub-O-PWUO_gu-npAGdt4IrGROQsKUE7MXjPFdxVc54OPil2ZheySxva9FNn6wDnuYGOsb2qnbcrHuOGLkPmkQF6e2/s1600/map+final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMNgZNH1WCwQgO4NDB5b5EBhCtHvSJYVwxpAGvsqffyeVK6Pz6XHub-O-PWUO_gu-npAGdt4IrGROQsKUE7MXjPFdxVc54OPil2ZheySxva9FNn6wDnuYGOsb2qnbcrHuOGLkPmkQF6e2/s640/map+final.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit of context!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGPm-pCscd-r_z3mwGI3ytuuzhdZy01wNMeKYvjWwA-i0VLznUfdgllF0LndO9bmoC1ucfkAnd6OupSERnTefR35t_YNNjIKmjzTp8_WYZEukci2MdlK0onENVfTwYfjd3RxJ5lwaY-HS/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-17+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGPm-pCscd-r_z3mwGI3ytuuzhdZy01wNMeKYvjWwA-i0VLznUfdgllF0LndO9bmoC1ucfkAnd6OupSERnTefR35t_YNNjIKmjzTp8_WYZEukci2MdlK0onENVfTwYfjd3RxJ5lwaY-HS/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-17+002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting out down alongside Mekong (just to left of the huts)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02EAXz9oG_Q4zkBDhGS82wciwfe55MuVg0WL2_ppD8KOzlaoddVbxXkQhc0KYeV-TnPC69kvRpyHqPOxqOF1L9R3-xsv-1uPEBNmd2qZc5fTOxU2yzrRVcwvbJRj7K2GiFgWOqi0M5jjs/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-17+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02EAXz9oG_Q4zkBDhGS82wciwfe55MuVg0WL2_ppD8KOzlaoddVbxXkQhc0KYeV-TnPC69kvRpyHqPOxqOF1L9R3-xsv-1uPEBNmd2qZc5fTOxU2yzrRVcwvbJRj7K2GiFgWOqi0M5jjs/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-17+009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the tar seal - woop woop!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjNhySYYxQ7GT606z65LB6IhbqOj9rW3juySZ0YzsQzxOlrRWJhnaCz9c8QTyzQ-HaGGmff8uSh7KwsFbl23ijtRgpNswGXNS7cyS8Y80GmAD2LRj6lzEGCMC4y6pN5OEfu2bUblpcuCW/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjNhySYYxQ7GT606z65LB6IhbqOj9rW3juySZ0YzsQzxOlrRWJhnaCz9c8QTyzQ-HaGGmff8uSh7KwsFbl23ijtRgpNswGXNS7cyS8Y80GmAD2LRj6lzEGCMC4y6pN5OEfu2bUblpcuCW/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New bridge construction - happening all over the show!</td></tr>
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With us on the 10min ferry ride across the river to Koh Preah was an egg vendor (carrying an impressive amount of eggs in giant baskets on his motorbike) an icecream man and several other guys on motorbikes. Our vessel was a barge - a wooden platform spread across two canoe hulls and an impressive crank-start motor. On arrival we biked along the few kms of road to the village and were promptly welcomed by the school teacher who poked his head out the window as we pedaled up.<br />
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Turned out he was the village leader, Saylom and he organised us a homestay within minutes. And so, by 11am we were settled in, chilling out on a hammock on the first day of our (last) cycle adventure. Quite a change from the usual cycling hours we had been doing. Being active relaxers - it was a good challenge stopping this early in the morning when we felt like we were just getting into it!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNqHnHOJVz8JVI9jgklhephpvNNl1B9UFtHXypZ7TV1wXOl1wRvLcD6lLYgTKN6573SoqXwlWF-iheyK8SGPcBXscX6apZyTYowAxu7LAX9Rdc5C0vvptoFTMzJhbRI3J3CISpXWGwdd1/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNqHnHOJVz8JVI9jgklhephpvNNl1B9UFtHXypZ7TV1wXOl1wRvLcD6lLYgTKN6573SoqXwlWF-iheyK8SGPcBXscX6apZyTYowAxu7LAX9Rdc5C0vvptoFTMzJhbRI3J3CISpXWGwdd1/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+055.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quiet rural riding</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUWF_7EcpCphtuaLXhITSJNwH8Aw0Niq9HKkCctOCCbx2pMeMivzwHpB9d84TTSiPAXoUbJ16_KXSUoncBUisDxBRhTWx3adg-1nkSLNnfWqPfGy9y3BvGSNdn48omyy-0VXnmoe8f1hyJ/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUWF_7EcpCphtuaLXhITSJNwH8Aw0Niq9HKkCctOCCbx2pMeMivzwHpB9d84TTSiPAXoUbJ16_KXSUoncBUisDxBRhTWx3adg-1nkSLNnfWqPfGy9y3BvGSNdn48omyy-0VXnmoe8f1hyJ/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+072.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration for when our bikes feel too heavy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirb3YHBeQEejCxSD87EedZSHaNt7i_n4EVo55DgBvbIpGWFysW86OEZMZWoDEb-b_ZPNgKTBCUdq17BEcTN8uMyBDJtydosF2uf3fXTMPmZbi-1UBTPSSM7vPROuGCryNLVD1R-6Y3ZE8q/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirb3YHBeQEejCxSD87EedZSHaNt7i_n4EVo55DgBvbIpGWFysW86OEZMZWoDEb-b_ZPNgKTBCUdq17BEcTN8uMyBDJtydosF2uf3fXTMPmZbi-1UBTPSSM7vPROuGCryNLVD1R-6Y3ZE8q/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+090.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first of 7 ferries - our ride to Koh Preah</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vMAKa85A-CPjnZ94zOHm3o0SlCqCeR2sT2Ox2L0dHf9dJKGlolLJVuaAR4hpiBPZ9d9Nb_Rg4mL_XfCAYUAe2rYPeTggJjpA3N0C5mfLbj6-QTFmusFStUPtBrBRduwSXRbNUp3g-EFi/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vMAKa85A-CPjnZ94zOHm3o0SlCqCeR2sT2Ox2L0dHf9dJKGlolLJVuaAR4hpiBPZ9d9Nb_Rg4mL_XfCAYUAe2rYPeTggJjpA3N0C5mfLbj6-QTFmusFStUPtBrBRduwSXRbNUp3g-EFi/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+093.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out the egg man!!</td></tr>
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Some cyclists cover the 145km from Stung Treng to Kratie in one long day on the main road - we took four days and were so glad to finish on a bit of an adventure - these villages experience a lot less frequent tourism so we enjoyed being the only outsiders for a few days.<br />
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We wrestled with a few things over these first few homestay nights. Firstly, price. One homestay had offered us food at an outlandishly expensive price so we politely declined and went to forage out our own feed in the village - while we wanted to support local tourism initiatives, we didn't want to set, or continue a precedent that westerners will pay whatever price for food, especially when we could easily eat down the road for about an eighth of the initial price suggested. As it was, accommodation in these homestays was more than we would usually pay, but in the spirit of community development and being looked after while off the beaten track, we were happy to pay a fair price.<br />
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Secondly, communication!! Our Khmer stretched as far as asking how much something cost, counting to ten and greeting/introducing ourselves. Despite thinking we COULD ask for food, we still found ourselves in an awkward situation one night where we thought we had agreed on a price for some rice, but it became increasing obvious that the family we were hanging out with were unsure why we were still sitting with them as they sat down to share their evening meal! It ended up with them offering us some but it being very clear there wasn't actually enough for us. We declined, retreated (with both parties being quite confused) and desperately wandered through the village looking for another option. Thankfully we found one! (Turned out they were the breakfast restaurant & previous conversation & prices only related to that).<br />
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Another challenge - the village soundtrack! Generators, metal grinders, kids, horns, midnight herds of cows with neck bells, dawn roosters, dog howling at 1am and motorbikes were our constant friends!! Ahhh, the serenity!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwByb7yxh9THSjHaSQFVydeNrn6viZ96Pv_149DNXSTnmywjJrggjShP7FxoeET-_SE1m84DblbNZsONOCQ4woi1Tlap7qoCs3ydnClhyFmAeH2z0aXqM6z6Aglna_yhxGqSZJ3umOgKfy/s1600/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwByb7yxh9THSjHaSQFVydeNrn6viZ96Pv_149DNXSTnmywjJrggjShP7FxoeET-_SE1m84DblbNZsONOCQ4woi1Tlap7qoCs3ydnClhyFmAeH2z0aXqM6z6Aglna_yhxGqSZJ3umOgKfy/s640/2016-08-17+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+137.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first homestay night in Koh Preah with Chanyee</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyWy1JSZBEU-CatxxWyNypP2OwENsERoSrwA9FiIgDF5FGNdFo8KL-OLE3fOhucrkJ1ppZmFzGRsi3MGcyWL1fqYN1WpuvAkWy1qSboGVtJCpICimMCboBvg_NYVw_lj-G4Va1sKhgh7t/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyWy1JSZBEU-CatxxWyNypP2OwENsERoSrwA9FiIgDF5FGNdFo8KL-OLE3fOhucrkJ1ppZmFzGRsi3MGcyWL1fqYN1WpuvAkWy1qSboGVtJCpICimMCboBvg_NYVw_lj-G4Va1sKhgh7t/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Koh Preah</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaEAxGlOuPYMkqBqYjvtoplMC3quJOj2qsG9iGzRNyFyFrXY56k7zDdF8GKN97RvkXoCgDr-wMA6dQYou3ajPkGwwuoQs4U-pbeKvmbyypvm5sGnZx7TW08brnEwFcr0lB_nOJKgnhEv1q/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaEAxGlOuPYMkqBqYjvtoplMC3quJOj2qsG9iGzRNyFyFrXY56k7zDdF8GKN97RvkXoCgDr-wMA6dQYou3ajPkGwwuoQs4U-pbeKvmbyypvm5sGnZx7TW08brnEwFcr0lB_nOJKgnhEv1q/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+079.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The family we were having fun learning Khmer with until we realised we had overstayed our welcome!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiA4KUBKItPt4DcrZyTsMV3-Jh44-1TWnjeOekw3AQRcj_YSRpAaSF83FB6sAeJD7MrBvEONZc62VjW_7NUbl3G0YoW0HkwhmnUTrRQRNp-2bczbQUHCocmt7SArba8YfbjAMP6y8s-sY/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiA4KUBKItPt4DcrZyTsMV3-Jh44-1TWnjeOekw3AQRcj_YSRpAaSF83FB6sAeJD7MrBvEONZc62VjW_7NUbl3G0YoW0HkwhmnUTrRQRNp-2bczbQUHCocmt7SArba8YfbjAMP6y8s-sY/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+082.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homestay family in Koh Khnhear, the night before heading over to the island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6psMoAZQlhvwNg4uhDcWWSiVJX1OGekTZZgDqo8zYrEWQ7tnVarQIiiTWghlJq456pbDlwjeotcQ6T8iCxMfklxo5q4f8_V1TXKCGhPQrsit-k2aR9EGbw75HcYc2yHiOXsGodGwsHAP/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6psMoAZQlhvwNg4uhDcWWSiVJX1OGekTZZgDqo8zYrEWQ7tnVarQIiiTWghlJq456pbDlwjeotcQ6T8iCxMfklxo5q4f8_V1TXKCGhPQrsit-k2aR9EGbw75HcYc2yHiOXsGodGwsHAP/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village life, Koh Khnhear</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbo_3oUIgkswTS2qJgpnnFOm4QmhL5H7nrvqaO-cywsvsWd-lONK2U00341Uj4pEqe3nResw-_iL0ImG_BZjZJXYppr2ejoQPnt_a8WAuxd4O42cjR20Il7NOs10i0N5cb3-lnUNqU0pLH/s1600/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbo_3oUIgkswTS2qJgpnnFOm4QmhL5H7nrvqaO-cywsvsWd-lONK2U00341Uj4pEqe3nResw-_iL0ImG_BZjZJXYppr2ejoQPnt_a8WAuxd4O42cjR20Il7NOs10i0N5cb3-lnUNqU0pLH/s640/2016-08-18+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+034.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were stoked it hadn't rained more leading up to our visit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7ylJG002C-Wc242fuCtUTRwspb2ZM3-LSPqOO_Qax0T2_hHAbFaTl1BG6oz2Tz1Lv5klKPdY8UtSCA0cuNe67M3Xt3WZDJYQ4waRht3I-HRJA-sWnxEDXFfxutNLDgBtMNpprDm5Bpoi/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-18+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7ylJG002C-Wc242fuCtUTRwspb2ZM3-LSPqOO_Qax0T2_hHAbFaTl1BG6oz2Tz1Lv5klKPdY8UtSCA0cuNe67M3Xt3WZDJYQ4waRht3I-HRJA-sWnxEDXFfxutNLDgBtMNpprDm5Bpoi/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-18+004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two young homestay boys who were quite fascinated by Andy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9byHlbt8BGFUTg5iKKI70HKCV8pc7V6s2him9_KzYMctq_9i-c_etmIFCgyOqxbkK5ouvYKQ0PJobwhuddpbTXbVakt_tJPNtc8GPVofvnheVLF1EZepOWHSzGBgs87sr4WwIb8x30x8/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-18+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9byHlbt8BGFUTg5iKKI70HKCV8pc7V6s2him9_KzYMctq_9i-c_etmIFCgyOqxbkK5ouvYKQ0PJobwhuddpbTXbVakt_tJPNtc8GPVofvnheVLF1EZepOWHSzGBgs87sr4WwIb8x30x8/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-18+005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pyjama wearing Cambodian women!! It is awesome seeing matching outfits as completely legitimate fashion!</td></tr>
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<br />
The real challenge came on day three as we crossed to Koh Rougniv- the infamous island. This island has no roads, only ox and motorbike tracks which run throughout the interior of the island for about 40kms - this was probably the part of the journey we were most nervous about! Our canoe deposited us on the bank, the driver pointed at a sign which explained there were signs every now and then, and that it was 45km south to the next ferry crossing. As he motored back to the mainland side, the couple in the first house looked at our bikes, pointed at the muddy ground and grimaced. Hmmm. Not a good start. We had heard stories of this trail being muddy, sandy, with a high likelihood of getting lost.<br />
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The main advice offered was to always choose the most major looking fork, and when in doubt, get out your compass and head south! Everyone we had talked to had biked this in the dry season and we were unsure how the monsoon might affect the 'sandy' sections (mudholes??). Sure enough, the first 500m was a slippery, slide-y, skinny track that was impossible to bike as we crossed the first rice field. Thankfully it improved!!! The 40km took a good long time, with the track changing from hard-packed dirt, to bumpy stones, to rooty, rutted gravel and sandy trails which were impossible to bike. Despite choosing the wrong fork once or twice (difficulty on deciding which track was most major) we really enjoyed the challenge of getting to the other end!! We arrived in the final village homestay about 3pm, happy, muddy and pretty stoked on life! We were so thankful for good weather during this stretch!!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhE4s3VkUG1nuBvXZdTdeb3KpVIRNohsPXQMtKNCKtKAtL4vBStbxM6sFn64e3XmXTqowBFlXvCiReXB6s0w2P8O_wEzJ-LkyjU9-TMjjQmVgHKLof6Yrm16rb5spvAOYjlIidO-tFPJxg/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhE4s3VkUG1nuBvXZdTdeb3KpVIRNohsPXQMtKNCKtKAtL4vBStbxM6sFn64e3XmXTqowBFlXvCiReXB6s0w2P8O_wEzJ-LkyjU9-TMjjQmVgHKLof6Yrm16rb5spvAOYjlIidO-tFPJxg/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The smallest of the 7 ferries!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHk3au8CUKEHzKa-19zocPunRd8EMKIKs1mlYRCI0z5K7u6l66LG4jPNbrJVMWSjl4YJ7OP3aiwkEXSUtkTrQj_QXKxX8LuW0dujpEou51N7CfIYN9QFMy94UiH2CvAZVKJiT_55GGY5e/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHk3au8CUKEHzKa-19zocPunRd8EMKIKs1mlYRCI0z5K7u6l66LG4jPNbrJVMWSjl4YJ7OP3aiwkEXSUtkTrQj_QXKxX8LuW0dujpEou51N7CfIYN9QFMy94UiH2CvAZVKJiT_55GGY5e/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+027.jpg" width="540" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoping the track will improve!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKtWFupbOH0_OswfskW7SwGOTU07q0ZyHFb3otHWvQcpLdDiSPhc6d_oDxh5X3Nr4PhsOCjFcCekrb5OKqz1ElN5oBE9yzATOyvbC8DAdnB6ONnGm5byoOsb2EQq-2Y7lH9nnJcIR0Zlg/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKtWFupbOH0_OswfskW7SwGOTU07q0ZyHFb3otHWvQcpLdDiSPhc6d_oDxh5X3Nr4PhsOCjFcCekrb5OKqz1ElN5oBE9yzATOyvbC8DAdnB6ONnGm5byoOsb2EQq-2Y7lH9nnJcIR0Zlg/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+050.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life on Koh Rougeniv</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTHXKH0ULfxXig_NhoY9Jkzw4cUW7KK0Z7VFwx1-YN_r3t_Gg9k1O9l2KbFUvjb7qmCl7JHPAxYBItqpCe-NfGrq5KQpOneyKhOne2DJulca3BJogCsGgdzF6-Y-SEwGi8IMBOeK4Vm3x/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTHXKH0ULfxXig_NhoY9Jkzw4cUW7KK0Z7VFwx1-YN_r3t_Gg9k1O9l2KbFUvjb7qmCl7JHPAxYBItqpCe-NfGrq5KQpOneyKhOne2DJulca3BJogCsGgdzF6-Y-SEwGi8IMBOeK4Vm3x/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+056.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising on some single track</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyl3XwJp4LIT0HDieejljNfavwtjTYrouyvEyE_E1mQGjE9b60ZJZZoVDRd3dCW3ozjRBLV95QOVf6ZaTYNn1LzVDBpYmiXSBJmGvaat7zeKUoeBInUI7xGeb8uqGOPaqNFKQddlsJ9RC/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyl3XwJp4LIT0HDieejljNfavwtjTYrouyvEyE_E1mQGjE9b60ZJZZoVDRd3dCW3ozjRBLV95QOVf6ZaTYNn1LzVDBpYmiXSBJmGvaat7zeKUoeBInUI7xGeb8uqGOPaqNFKQddlsJ9RC/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+083.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Civilisation!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHX0kaL84I12BHCEXFBKuxnWR1yBI3k_r72d-H9P25Y8ysjvIPUMFbNF9GGuIfl5AYlev3UmIJJlHvHXuDJ_ACS3zyZq6LqmCoF_KDUxfvVRqTvx7wcuDC2cct4h9G3jvLyj40HzaEd3nU/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHX0kaL84I12BHCEXFBKuxnWR1yBI3k_r72d-H9P25Y8ysjvIPUMFbNF9GGuIfl5AYlev3UmIJJlHvHXuDJ_ACS3zyZq6LqmCoF_KDUxfvVRqTvx7wcuDC2cct4h9G3jvLyj40HzaEd3nU/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+009.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All I need - my bell, bike computer, compass and GPS! And a track heading south!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCw2hk_SmnE3RVskjSwdhxctcrXdqxpe70IMC2MdypiBB4I17mIzJBvHX4S0WCDISD_omv4iHvPXPy1nZMJcf0ONmk9Xbid29si1RkbtFzG4lEGoKQXdjAgxArvv82IpRemteRkeUrOJ51/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCw2hk_SmnE3RVskjSwdhxctcrXdqxpe70IMC2MdypiBB4I17mIzJBvHX4S0WCDISD_omv4iHvPXPy1nZMJcf0ONmk9Xbid29si1RkbtFzG4lEGoKQXdjAgxArvv82IpRemteRkeUrOJ51/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-19+015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hmmm....trying to pick the "most major fork"</td></tr>
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<br />
We had a lovely night with a grandmother who had an english phrase book - her first phrase to point out was "I'm so glad you are staying with me". Ohhhh. A lovely way to start! We were fed very well, and it was a real pleasure observing grandmother, mother, daughter and grandchild all sitting round yarning, laughing and passing the time together (ages ranged 5, 25, 45, 65!). It made me want to be a part of a community where multiple generations do life together!!!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFUkFBOnODkBRBaDtL5x8ytzlSfH9Jgzto_2esLfCZc-_sKeQzWtgbmJUA6-PfPsW_SUJWJGSzf3iQPFOmm7btaXPq7ZOGZYq7zwbuvmpIBWN9mgKj-W5FderKUNGaIusp37lGDtOaiO8/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFUkFBOnODkBRBaDtL5x8ytzlSfH9Jgzto_2esLfCZc-_sKeQzWtgbmJUA6-PfPsW_SUJWJGSzf3iQPFOmm7btaXPq7ZOGZYq7zwbuvmpIBWN9mgKj-W5FderKUNGaIusp37lGDtOaiO8/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+105.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awkward (but lovely) lineup of family watching us eat our meal</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_3lO-oUqTCwIEsQV5-o0Ig-p6sxZ1b5lt0Y6QyfRuii7YUbQSduGaRxRELk7C3UX5-nIb9oD9t1_g3upO00xpQ0E9fNzt9HpnaCoSvZO4masQjagA21KrVZar3mVW1kuSSDLeyoggIP9/s1600/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_3lO-oUqTCwIEsQV5-o0Ig-p6sxZ1b5lt0Y6QyfRuii7YUbQSduGaRxRELk7C3UX5-nIb9oD9t1_g3upO00xpQ0E9fNzt9HpnaCoSvZO4masQjagA21KrVZar3mVW1kuSSDLeyoggIP9/s640/2016-08-19+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+087.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stoked to have made it to the south end of the island</td></tr>
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The following day we crossed back to the east side, discovered bamboo stalks filled with sticky rice, frozen soursop juice (a real hit in the heat!!) and more friendly Cambodian people along the way. We arrived in Kratie, enjoyed a good long shower and even got to choose what we ate for tea - a treat after three nights of relying on others to feed you!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSansuUz5KTOGMPu476MSZpr25taWBgWkZK8XlSJ_hnNQd54MaljRzgd6W04p09tJiyi593zpY1SsRSnTjHEQ4kWlpW4V6zj3kKAr5X2Cm2RkTco4kke_PzOVfKFJuOS-eO9yTPwZVuQz/s1600/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSansuUz5KTOGMPu476MSZpr25taWBgWkZK8XlSJ_hnNQd54MaljRzgd6W04p09tJiyi593zpY1SsRSnTjHEQ4kWlpW4V6zj3kKAr5X2Cm2RkTco4kke_PzOVfKFJuOS-eO9yTPwZVuQz/s640/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yet another ferry! (This one spent some time ominously pumping out their ballast tanks before we could start)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHF-1rzFFyLTwGKcq-GRg4IHdghOYgVwg0er4BSiuYS9z80Hsx1yG9VCjLu57eE7KjvayQj4koHwh7_0RKsn0l3Aauxe0KZK4NNwYNiuf23dt9bcwxNshf8DOlv2LdeK4mZoY94GE7HDHq/s1600/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHF-1rzFFyLTwGKcq-GRg4IHdghOYgVwg0er4BSiuYS9z80Hsx1yG9VCjLu57eE7KjvayQj4koHwh7_0RKsn0l3Aauxe0KZK4NNwYNiuf23dt9bcwxNshf8DOlv2LdeK4mZoY94GE7HDHq/s640/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Sambour, a small village on the east side - we had a good noodle soup here</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMP3UsTerea4Rhq8NpjAoGCXQsivF7msrTne70jH7VofQeSevYOe2jiM6eyNS0xYN3qfcj2sK1m6As1xNkAEiEgjyt3QMWPAtrgpe7dFWdUEWjzDbcvGSb4183Aoq4v9EERJPcfpvJZxw/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-20+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMP3UsTerea4Rhq8NpjAoGCXQsivF7msrTne70jH7VofQeSevYOe2jiM6eyNS0xYN3qfcj2sK1m6As1xNkAEiEgjyt3QMWPAtrgpe7dFWdUEWjzDbcvGSb4183Aoq4v9EERJPcfpvJZxw/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-20+003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning rice fields</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGTfN2tF7ymR-cn4RnxbqskceRdHbM9QyOBz4ymd_IXFa-mmansZMOC3-tYPdqVNEJV3Bsypy4OHKvkN-i18W2PF3qBRGjgPtvG_QvvydAz7ECS6gLUcLzJlQKiae0wjmPv9t_YwbwNX_/s1600/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGTfN2tF7ymR-cn4RnxbqskceRdHbM9QyOBz4ymd_IXFa-mmansZMOC3-tYPdqVNEJV3Bsypy4OHKvkN-i18W2PF3qBRGjgPtvG_QvvydAz7ECS6gLUcLzJlQKiae0wjmPv9t_YwbwNX_/s640/2016-08-20+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+078.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A relaxing dinner in Kratie, enjoying the sunset over the Mekong</td></tr>
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<br />
So, four days to cover 145km. That meant we had two days to cover the final 220km to Phnom Penh - back into usual cycling hours! We crossed to the west side and covered the 120km to Kampong Cham by biking from sugarcane vendor to noodle lady to freezers for cold drinks! Thoroughly enjoyable!<br />
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At one stage the main road went up a hill . Steeply. At the top I happened to check Google Maps and was surprised to find we had actually left the main road, which looked like a much more direct route than what our current position would be. Quick team meeting and we decided to fly back down the hill and take the actual main road.<br />
<br />
Well.<br />
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The "actual" main road involved pushing our bikes through the middle of a wedding reception tent setup over the road. So, we squeezed our way with another scooter between white table cloth tables, as waiters distributed the cutlery. We emerged from someone's back yard onto the road and followed a gravel road which rapidly turned into into a track, and then a rutted path, much to steep and loose to ride. Main road?? Google assured me it was!! And so, after some pushing up a very steep hill we re-emerged on the other side of the rubber plantation where we had been sometime before, and found our way back to the tar seal. While our "main road" was definitely shorter, I wish I had looked at the scale of the map as it would have been much quicker to just bike the long way from our original position!!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsQylYqNajHpSvrnJCh3a_yL4j2NYv58vQvcWl8tbEd5naaE1w2A_ygyqUsqjbSXjELYAy0yiExvXl2J5p4y139cEbHlY_6ApkZ0nH8ya9B0ijr5Ycu3V3iFm4N-pMzPKjBySAOE71_Xu/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsQylYqNajHpSvrnJCh3a_yL4j2NYv58vQvcWl8tbEd5naaE1w2A_ygyqUsqjbSXjELYAy0yiExvXl2J5p4y139cEbHlY_6ApkZ0nH8ya9B0ijr5Ycu3V3iFm4N-pMzPKjBySAOE71_Xu/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+023.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharing the road...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuT6kmaL05VPVhx2Td0cp50-WEcfu4qvgOCq8EyK0qgi7d3osNS7bXxUlgaaF4Rd6IaZlPkCAu-41oVEd8cM0wAayvPHsYrvBhWI7omjkl8KcWhAZWnbbQNi1cCMr-d8p7dEVJLUySjEPa/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuT6kmaL05VPVhx2Td0cp50-WEcfu4qvgOCq8EyK0qgi7d3osNS7bXxUlgaaF4Rd6IaZlPkCAu-41oVEd8cM0wAayvPHsYrvBhWI7omjkl8KcWhAZWnbbQNi1cCMr-d8p7dEVJLUySjEPa/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cssfk2YURl123LDMLU3qmgFc3ZCannXAv0VpD8cumotCjBenXVqyIApJHVXpGlkgLAig6jpY2nCsE8V4SKqaIU_467Fz5kQA5lYcZOpRZ4tnd4C4nplaILIgJ_V6xaQMTu7szfWOKLqF/s1600/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cssfk2YURl123LDMLU3qmgFc3ZCannXAv0VpD8cumotCjBenXVqyIApJHVXpGlkgLAig6jpY2nCsE8V4SKqaIU_467Fz5kQA5lYcZOpRZ4tnd4C4nplaILIgJ_V6xaQMTu7szfWOKLqF/s640/2016-08-21+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+035.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic Cambodian village houses</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing net drying contraption</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6vO0BxAwiBetmNzg9P-0d9Dg7fNnHyCmReqFhL-6fvScCBjcEJBE-UdcX1zVnI1_rMuzw0YCyVbI7GYodTTDRYmg7cqPlDRdedib4ksLDdNXhVcBj12-Vsjx1_L4ScSS14GlUD-v6q4C/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-21+001+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6vO0BxAwiBetmNzg9P-0d9Dg7fNnHyCmReqFhL-6fvScCBjcEJBE-UdcX1zVnI1_rMuzw0YCyVbI7GYodTTDRYmg7cqPlDRdedib4ksLDdNXhVcBj12-Vsjx1_L4ScSS14GlUD-v6q4C/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-21+001+%25282%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google assured me this was the main road!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugarcane juice is a pretty good time on a hot dusty road (neighborhood kids waiting for their dose)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our final sunset - Kampong Cham</td></tr>
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And all of a sudden we were sitting on the banks of the Mekong, enjoying our last night on the bike. We reminisced over people we had met along the way - our Moroccan host Mbark, Andy's awesome relatives in Holland, the random family in Germany who took us in, Moritz and his family in Brixen, the Croatian goat herdsman, our Syrian friends and other volunteers, Ege and the Kaya family in Turkey, Brother Aung in Myanmar, and so many other inspiring, generous and loving people. What a privilege it has been!<br />
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It wouldn't be right for the final day to not involve a good challenge and we certainly found it - after crossing back to the east side our road changed from concrete pads (glorious for biking on) to 20km of heavily rutted, bone rattling, soul destroying loose gravel - UGH!!! SO slow-going and by the end of 20km our arms were literally feeling as though they might fall off. We were planning on finding the first ferry we could to whisk us back to the westside and the main road. Thankfully though, things improved and we enjoyed the final kms on a quiet, sealed road which took us all the way to a ferry crossing opposite the centre of Phnom Penh. Pretty weird rolling in and suddenly seeing skyscrapers across the river and knowing you were about to be plunged into 2 million scooters and crazy traffic! What a way to arrive though and it was with great satisfaction we navigated our way home and collapsed into a much-needed shower.<br />
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Thankyou Mekong for such a good adventure!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0r4sMEVTSujyGIf8k5Ae6hZtOP0p4-SNvjOsDduWjC8KhzmriFfM5pWS-D6RPGd-14-DRnSHFRWicxe-kx1opBoZzqD6GUirotXw1YaEa72HYdJ0hFk7KtX2hhyg16TAn90LzWn9usvg2/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+001+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0r4sMEVTSujyGIf8k5Ae6hZtOP0p4-SNvjOsDduWjC8KhzmriFfM5pWS-D6RPGd-14-DRnSHFRWicxe-kx1opBoZzqD6GUirotXw1YaEa72HYdJ0hFk7KtX2hhyg16TAn90LzWn9usvg2/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+001+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting out on the final day towards Phnom Penh</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lwF2gGdlZ6FsTnj8syLpD5ET7aoFT_88NdfsXPQaq1J_EmW6Jb3o9bBrJ3ALdcv2pntEEwcO4zAAON7EGYZ72ydLVC8c3OOX74BKjNCBkvP3naK1Mmtu3IX-rB7lqzbvJ94-s4C71XYv/s1600/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lwF2gGdlZ6FsTnj8syLpD5ET7aoFT_88NdfsXPQaq1J_EmW6Jb3o9bBrJ3ALdcv2pntEEwcO4zAAON7EGYZ72ydLVC8c3OOX74BKjNCBkvP3naK1Mmtu3IX-rB7lqzbvJ94-s4C71XYv/s640/Mekong+Discovery+Trail+MM+2016-08-22+002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Death Road - 20km was MORE than enough</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmm_XhuVWHvAPVchCJAQw1uZnf1FcHgv7An-I9R0q3Ow8xfb6r3JIRAZH1O_hnF5GezOkOH-7wFsC4N2yYHdGMgDNFIPny5EYSM4W5l1Ix9bUXHnBx2Ajn12tkmMdZIgFJoOYDtU1-pzdJ/s1600/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmm_XhuVWHvAPVchCJAQw1uZnf1FcHgv7An-I9R0q3Ow8xfb6r3JIRAZH1O_hnF5GezOkOH-7wFsC4N2yYHdGMgDNFIPny5EYSM4W5l1Ix9bUXHnBx2Ajn12tkmMdZIgFJoOYDtU1-pzdJ/s640/2016-08-22+Mekokng+Discovery+Trail+AJM+037.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feeling pretty satisfied with ourselves!!! We clicked over 5200km as we rolled up to this ferry crossing.</td></tr>
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Arohanui,<br />
Miri and Andy</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-24551290469410668852016-08-09T01:13:00.001-07:002016-08-09T01:51:17.780-07:00A Crumpled Piece of Paper: Cycling & Rivers in Northern Laos & Vietnam<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Summary</b></span><br />
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- <span style="font-size: x-small;">Entered Laos at Huay Xai, from northern Thailand and caught the slow boat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang.<br />- Cycled south to Vang Vieng (almost died of heat exhaustion), caught a bus back to Luang Prabang<br />- Cycled north to Nong Khoia and got a river boat upstream to Mgong Khua<br />- Cycled across the border to Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam. Caught a bus to Lai Chau and biked the final stretch to Sapa, and Lao Cai (incl. a small backroad which cut out a big hill.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">- Train to Hanoi<br />- Next steps: South via train and bus towards Northern Cambodia</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> ***** See "We Love Maps" Tab for our route (still to be edited properly)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning Laos landscapes</td></tr>
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<b>Its 10pm</b>, late for the cycle touring routine and the karaoke bar next door is thumping away, packed to the rafters, with the music blasting out across the quiet valley. Despite the ear plugs, sleep is not coming easily. <br />
<br />
We're in Muang Khua, our last night in Laos and looking forward to the ride over the hills to Vietnam tomorrow. Little do we know, there's one more Laos adventure to come....<br />
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<b> 1am</b>. Andy wakes up to see a Lao man in our room, flicking a lighter for light…naturally he starts yelling Oi! Oi! Oi! I wake up, thinking Andy is in the midst of an epic nightmare. ...then i see the man too. EEEEEK! He turned on our light and started trying to communicate something to us in Lao - which of course we couldn't understand. Fire? Flood? Evacuation? Nothing was making sense and finally we took him downstairs to find no-one else awake, Eventually he just got on his motorbike and left. Odd!!! We still have no idea what he was after or what the heck he was doing in our room! It left us somewhat unsettled, and rather thankful he didn’t have a knife or wasn’t the thieving type!<br />
<br />
<b> 10 days earlier:</b> We entered Laos at Huay Xai in the northwest, after a lovely night with Tian and Nisa (Warm Showers hosts) on the banks of the Mekong River on the Thailand side. It was such a treat having an incredible array of local food to try, a little welcome sign out the front of their house and company biking to the border the following morning. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very special night!</td></tr>
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Frustratingly, you have to load your bike into a bus for the 200m trip across the bridge, which acts as the border into Laos - such a pain in the butt! Once we were officially in Laos, we joined throngs of other travelers on a slow boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. Despite our general avoidance of mass tourism, this was a really cool way to get a sense of life on the river - such a dynamic, huge and powerful body of water snaking its way through the mountains. ** Mekong inspired poetry at the bottom!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bikes loaded and ready to go - just waiting for the 70 other people to arrive!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW9e_apXvhFRcbFZe8Aazxb5A-NOODa4vhDmdFxyRXNA7wka3mGvNyRqCpyxduBDqTXW8dmS-1e_3g9A1HPnBDla5yacAeAmAcx2e-7auggiulpfW8lshaPmfgvtzSyhtiw7116GvHzXYk/s1600/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW9e_apXvhFRcbFZe8Aazxb5A-NOODa4vhDmdFxyRXNA7wka3mGvNyRqCpyxduBDqTXW8dmS-1e_3g9A1HPnBDla5yacAeAmAcx2e-7auggiulpfW8lshaPmfgvtzSyhtiw7116GvHzXYk/s640/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These boats cruise the river carrying people, motorbikes, food, and whatever else they can squeeze on!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicT1NdbLTDPA4w_RiiuWmu2gbQf-uIi3ePhA4LGqyo1pTLOte5W5YLisRjHYYvUk42bwWINNLa0tNGDUtE3iZ1e8LYy029eFc6Raul4O1SdSqSmQS_JcAyRUuaSX_Ej96JsuBrZKFBU8Xe/s1600/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicT1NdbLTDPA4w_RiiuWmu2gbQf-uIi3ePhA4LGqyo1pTLOte5W5YLisRjHYYvUk42bwWINNLa0tNGDUtE3iZ1e8LYy029eFc6Raul4O1SdSqSmQS_JcAyRUuaSX_Ej96JsuBrZKFBU8Xe/s640/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+062.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life on the banks of the Mekong</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4IHeU1S9sJQK98Zq6v_V1Rp4ZZUjMEr1D4p7dvm-6U6Xcb1stCJlU-sQcDF890ZXS46Imkdbj2qbFVq-n713uuLZKSuRSbSY0y5ZIwLAVI8UV55pQeZzUwSjbNXUv6_EmcEFfB-xrxxb/s1600/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4IHeU1S9sJQK98Zq6v_V1Rp4ZZUjMEr1D4p7dvm-6U6Xcb1stCJlU-sQcDF890ZXS46Imkdbj2qbFVq-n713uuLZKSuRSbSY0y5ZIwLAVI8UV55pQeZzUwSjbNXUv6_EmcEFfB-xrxxb/s640/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+119.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moods of the Mekong</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1uzR5FFTR4Ls-jQnPCI-bT8Y6B3FHSxaJbBM1XFBdoEWIN8SB9Xd2KJlohVGCEV6frRzwixHa4q-UzQFx7rKvW1R8p7rXBJnvbrXpf5-FVayl2MyRVUUYEHZlwweWkGkp2enKmu9LMwh/s1600/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+088+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1uzR5FFTR4Ls-jQnPCI-bT8Y6B3FHSxaJbBM1XFBdoEWIN8SB9Xd2KJlohVGCEV6frRzwixHa4q-UzQFx7rKvW1R8p7rXBJnvbrXpf5-FVayl2MyRVUUYEHZlwweWkGkp2enKmu9LMwh/s640/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+088+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moods of the Mekong</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VAV1qi5TgjPbnEs1x8nZZnDChS4cjNSgIeJKhLfWPOCCyvYSzcVKXnE_amIFl0GdVw3fLh-v9wGpmwu9XyXvHEQba8oGUsP_B_V0EJcIoXXZyRDs9KSWqP4pvCAZ0Cu-sAgnbQRROBOO/s1600/2016-07-23+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VAV1qi5TgjPbnEs1x8nZZnDChS4cjNSgIeJKhLfWPOCCyvYSzcVKXnE_amIFl0GdVw3fLh-v9wGpmwu9XyXvHEQba8oGUsP_B_V0EJcIoXXZyRDs9KSWqP4pvCAZ0Cu-sAgnbQRROBOO/s640/2016-07-23+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+058.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moods of the Mekong</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01gs2A8JyW6S7YNUdIOQl_gNXoYf3R07xgyTAdq4Nq_uXXi4V1s7KAPYwDC7KQQZfXqZrAFsu7f9QbwzUrPfIkirVuPYiSfygTHuy_UWMC4SlqkEbiCn5-dC8IP190QNVqLD9ipomCVVv/s1600/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01gs2A8JyW6S7YNUdIOQl_gNXoYf3R07xgyTAdq4Nq_uXXi4V1s7KAPYwDC7KQQZfXqZrAFsu7f9QbwzUrPfIkirVuPYiSfygTHuy_UWMC4SlqkEbiCn5-dC8IP190QNVqLD9ipomCVVv/s640/2016-07-22+MaeSot+to+LuangPrabang+AJM+146.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing - some good size fish for sale around - unsure of the stock levels!</td></tr>
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<div>
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Two days later, we arrived in Luang Prabang - LOVE IT!! Nestled in amongst the trees and rivers, it is a super laid-back town, small, friendly and easy to get around. Cafes, a fun night market and lots of good street food made for a fun day or two exploring, before setting off on the bikes again.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDuLqm9MQwgs0S952D7aGw7Qkc4sfmfd5CkT818vt-5lCOQieqTWijVks1Z-m2DZVUh7CfI5PEbT9M8NlzWU-yrcUjpAhGD5KLiW7fo2euPl8N0adxnSfjVtrUrtKBHF_HzzXp-xVbFfvn/s1600/2016-07-24+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDuLqm9MQwgs0S952D7aGw7Qkc4sfmfd5CkT818vt-5lCOQieqTWijVks1Z-m2DZVUh7CfI5PEbT9M8NlzWU-yrcUjpAhGD5KLiW7fo2euPl8N0adxnSfjVtrUrtKBHF_HzzXp-xVbFfvn/s640/2016-07-24+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towards sunset over Luang Prabang</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0q0B-bJOPl6GNmZnoD_J8g0VoOLVtV_Z5a_Zi_MSymkudUHhdKce7UcBVLWLiVhHROQPLDCl4YBdE_jOhVpEOZkUqbMTqT2HfPgVgc8dSG1eQTVRty0MyOGWcURn6vVsCs8_0X0TMpJRv/s1600/2016-07-24+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0q0B-bJOPl6GNmZnoD_J8g0VoOLVtV_Z5a_Zi_MSymkudUHhdKce7UcBVLWLiVhHROQPLDCl4YBdE_jOhVpEOZkUqbMTqT2HfPgVgc8dSG1eQTVRty0MyOGWcURn6vVsCs8_0X0TMpJRv/s640/2016-07-24+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+024.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy loving life!</td></tr>
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<b>Tuesday 26th July, 3pm</b>. It is swelteringly hot. Like, suffocatingly, frying on the tar seal kind of hot. As the possibility of heat exhaustion becomes more of a reality we are forced to stop under a spindly tree offering some shade. Shirts get unbuttoned, electrolytes come out, not many words are being said….how did we get here?!<br />
<br />
Lonely planet describes the topography of northern Laos as resembling “a crumpled up piece of green paper”, which is fairly accurate! The road south from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng is a must do for any cycle tour in Asia but it is not without its’ challenges! Huge uphill sections combined with 37 degree heat gave us some good “personal growth” moments and the relief at reaching the top, at sunset was incredible! We’d started late this morning due to trying to find a spare part and applying for our Vietnam visa and it was killer! 6am starts became mandatory for the following weeks cycling in an attempt to avoid cycling in the afternoon heat!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg07k55-VFy8owaHCpMYB8hn9_-25MeUBMlyB3XWyLOHcW4Eu2ANa75YJdgtdmFg852KyG-f_059HHzAC0dZR-fZtPNt7ERQG9iML9-naYAePx_h78Ss89lPnpLkOy4o2oYtiH7rx2E9cYn/s1600/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg07k55-VFy8owaHCpMYB8hn9_-25MeUBMlyB3XWyLOHcW4Eu2ANa75YJdgtdmFg852KyG-f_059HHzAC0dZR-fZtPNt7ERQG9iML9-naYAePx_h78Ss89lPnpLkOy4o2oYtiH7rx2E9cYn/s640/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+071.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooling down the body temperature! Sooooo goood!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj77xBn2zYGhOHHWQgfdgg8UY6hv0q1tGjz5K_JsBhI0YS1QORO92_R4hzTTNUcDBLfZ51V1jub0XDAyX18jK3hIDs4iBFw91kwHxLHOfOmUoJHvfvybBBtBDdfznYo11g08F7aZhL8jUSB/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj77xBn2zYGhOHHWQgfdgg8UY6hv0q1tGjz5K_JsBhI0YS1QORO92_R4hzTTNUcDBLfZ51V1jub0XDAyX18jK3hIDs4iBFw91kwHxLHOfOmUoJHvfvybBBtBDdfznYo11g08F7aZhL8jUSB/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laos has hills. Lots of hills.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pcp2SeVe6Lnk1qLfIM8PLRigPI4FfKdFP9OLTW-VnDSWncjPpVEV7ka_99wXipjFMerJYWj4LObXeVTEopmhNKNW5QY55k_Vwx6p0gLKHn9jvAhtJEIaedL5oHdtRQLtwsGj1xa2oxd1/s1600/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pcp2SeVe6Lnk1qLfIM8PLRigPI4FfKdFP9OLTW-VnDSWncjPpVEV7ka_99wXipjFMerJYWj4LObXeVTEopmhNKNW5QY55k_Vwx6p0gLKHn9jvAhtJEIaedL5oHdtRQLtwsGj1xa2oxd1/s640/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+064.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking in the sunset light - coming up to the saddle near Kiu kacham.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeemzdzR5yCaUUyJOcbuYZW7N-A8htuPWpP4aIZ6OV2Zw5b1w7-fFxmmgus1UO5J_ZKFW3CiO9hNKLvemkBb1MnxtPtilGJKT3I_OfwQ1Yo8NJXet2tYCXcrR-tyNpo2DBMOXaG6l0cT3/s1600/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeemzdzR5yCaUUyJOcbuYZW7N-A8htuPWpP4aIZ6OV2Zw5b1w7-fFxmmgus1UO5J_ZKFW3CiO9hNKLvemkBb1MnxtPtilGJKT3I_OfwQ1Yo8NJXet2tYCXcrR-tyNpo2DBMOXaG6l0cT3/s640/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thankful for the pineapple village en route</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Q17FSONrjtcs_VNgUnB__gnluXv7Q2O_OHlSQtpm0Apg54mII2d_dHLBNxptiwzPoHgoaxtRxy0XOgOOYLXsKeAF0MeXvsscFw98Y-TD_to1TQDmq9aT4inct6n2wUsngHJMpSInsF-4/s1600/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Q17FSONrjtcs_VNgUnB__gnluXv7Q2O_OHlSQtpm0Apg54mII2d_dHLBNxptiwzPoHgoaxtRxy0XOgOOYLXsKeAF0MeXvsscFw98Y-TD_to1TQDmq9aT4inct6n2wUsngHJMpSInsF-4/s640/2016-07-25+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+065.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another benefit of late night biking - awesome sunsets!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRZYCzIAI5X7BVmvyPZXBf3VGzD5EcY7KhDG5A2WlxKIzYHRSf6CEZ4Bw1wcykctotjBc0ld6_goxV9TSObY7Rk_zMkPxnEDZKP8dr_W7MnQa0sPD47UfRD4fYFJhJMmgpPzOc43hUlxL/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+036+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRZYCzIAI5X7BVmvyPZXBf3VGzD5EcY7KhDG5A2WlxKIzYHRSf6CEZ4Bw1wcykctotjBc0ld6_goxV9TSObY7Rk_zMkPxnEDZKP8dr_W7MnQa0sPD47UfRD4fYFJhJMmgpPzOc43hUlxL/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+036+%25282%2529.jpg" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encouragement along the way</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeb7mTtTWRjWkCJXa4HkPVjKN9i2XL3xAPWWuT03_d4n6RrN9nvhNhQ0Dq-FwDZskP8YDMe_dwhKRSoUAphISU0sJhahT9wWM2vXDzTvLpcGsXoCF5WRg-QRNVKEIc8g8CI-0hE5a3XPK/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeb7mTtTWRjWkCJXa4HkPVjKN9i2XL3xAPWWuT03_d4n6RrN9nvhNhQ0Dq-FwDZskP8YDMe_dwhKRSoUAphISU0sJhahT9wWM2vXDzTvLpcGsXoCF5WRg-QRNVKEIc8g8CI-0hE5a3XPK/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+043.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn drying season</td></tr>
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<div>
I cycled this stretch of road a few years ago and had shared epic tales of glorious descents with Andy, but i had conveniently, or not so conveniently forgotten about the endless stretches of uphill grinding!<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixbNJX0lPuRXRZzHvOxnQy6QI-aF49-wECpD_1_1S_bxLM_vtB_kAeTEvP3ocHRdJdhpP905Ss6t5WO4m7VLWFYTOFSYArfWW5pROYqxU1yRE6kqaZj6FeRdyi79JElkBwSDSapdkSDIGR/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixbNJX0lPuRXRZzHvOxnQy6QI-aF49-wECpD_1_1S_bxLM_vtB_kAeTEvP3ocHRdJdhpP905Ss6t5WO4m7VLWFYTOFSYArfWW5pROYqxU1yRE6kqaZj6FeRdyi79JElkBwSDSapdkSDIGR/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise from Kiu kacham</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheRo_TpnQcVHN0b1rA-UULgBf0uz6uyOyMTAKbkRGn97PWOlF4_Uz5EibRybHCkQ3ol3_IjXABkbft6F0Bf2b3V10CzoS3nyOYjHSYDjd2TURpCByGk4fnurOZFfds2t7TmMB6azVdBk_/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheRo_TpnQcVHN0b1rA-UULgBf0uz6uyOyMTAKbkRGn97PWOlF4_Uz5EibRybHCkQ3ol3_IjXABkbft6F0Bf2b3V10CzoS3nyOYjHSYDjd2TURpCByGk4fnurOZFfds2t7TmMB6azVdBk_/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+050.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The glorious downhill started here. See the road from centre left, stretching out for 14km, ending centre right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lhq-dzQ3v1oB74RlPtS9CSpWzUlZZkpVjEs1u5zFvllS-FWWLaXSQzDt8XhrAalVIBSRV7ENQsHRkcccquTLf-CEUNaQVlvAtkqlvPnph9d-1KeLFGS5eVJZsJqOBfyPxDjwi1F1fV61/s1600/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+052+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lhq-dzQ3v1oB74RlPtS9CSpWzUlZZkpVjEs1u5zFvllS-FWWLaXSQzDt8XhrAalVIBSRV7ENQsHRkcccquTLf-CEUNaQVlvAtkqlvPnph9d-1KeLFGS5eVJZsJqOBfyPxDjwi1F1fV61/s640/2016-07-26+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+052+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good spot to soak up the good life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAcpddVD_1SKZP8O4vhnKcQYZvn90W-qGpHyB4eiszlS313ZPYMeESUxkfz767jbIHM199yU1pzrDZfjqY-PTd8OvpqiGiLvicfYjgW6LiCSZqyVLk9JOa7SNn4WpArcRCmq_SkX-PaCX/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAcpddVD_1SKZP8O4vhnKcQYZvn90W-qGpHyB4eiszlS313ZPYMeESUxkfz767jbIHM199yU1pzrDZfjqY-PTd8OvpqiGiLvicfYjgW6LiCSZqyVLk9JOa7SNn4WpArcRCmq_SkX-PaCX/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+067.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal life - en route to Vang Vieng</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjd4gIstb3I6-BwviOy49qKcGaMbFHbt3xaC-4SoSltsNXQRblElLsF8eGU23RbzKZIIHHo595SsgLdGusdiGJxtWFeBDDcYtVesA8rJ5Ipc_PiKmwvRJ-yyLgLzjOmLCB4ZyMnO50J2OA/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjd4gIstb3I6-BwviOy49qKcGaMbFHbt3xaC-4SoSltsNXQRblElLsF8eGU23RbzKZIIHHo595SsgLdGusdiGJxtWFeBDDcYtVesA8rJ5Ipc_PiKmwvRJ-yyLgLzjOmLCB4ZyMnO50J2OA/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorsDMpZRHjvneoKv8ou8UvwkzFLmBX38amfbpsnLsBozE5C90OOk7JvfGlXioP7leDlQyHO_TdEDBFVKtTopzZSLIIYUFGBi2ZE8QpDtzwY-ugA8W6AzGmb-2EeSpf8hPO3BQB08LwJV8/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorsDMpZRHjvneoKv8ou8UvwkzFLmBX38amfbpsnLsBozE5C90OOk7JvfGlXioP7leDlQyHO_TdEDBFVKtTopzZSLIIYUFGBi2ZE8QpDtzwY-ugA8W6AzGmb-2EeSpf8hPO3BQB08LwJV8/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local transport - usually loaded with children, women, goods or animals!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9XqhqYWGbyRWPZYetxo3kmFCWAS-X1sXtnGK90prRxBiAeaTfiuIgh9UoOI0G8wkGytDtWSTHQuhARaXyAm7dRo9ptcn5_Qky3iqLbXDwqBj67z2glmtjiNR1S-l4ReJ8GLZCW7DPanX/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9XqhqYWGbyRWPZYetxo3kmFCWAS-X1sXtnGK90prRxBiAeaTfiuIgh9UoOI0G8wkGytDtWSTHQuhARaXyAm7dRo9ptcn5_Qky3iqLbXDwqBj67z2glmtjiNR1S-l4ReJ8GLZCW7DPanX/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+033.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local market in Kasi, Laos</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mDL4aZ2pPo6gL6Mm6ao-FQGqb7R2nlPyyZYDcVMHMEeshkWU-VqvDBeIFRNEuD6Lxkm4JysMnfKjFEVyFf7LIh8JcjvaOvq89M-GgAwXk9AGxYZeNuBLpnsfHhp4dJupmdUb4HgUPv2r/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mDL4aZ2pPo6gL6Mm6ao-FQGqb7R2nlPyyZYDcVMHMEeshkWU-VqvDBeIFRNEuD6Lxkm4JysMnfKjFEVyFf7LIh8JcjvaOvq89M-GgAwXk9AGxYZeNuBLpnsfHhp4dJupmdUb4HgUPv2r/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+029.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miri and John, stoked to find Andy after the party got separated for a good few kilometers.</td></tr>
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Monsoon season brings with it epic storms and it was so awe-some and impressive to witness some of the best thunder and lightning we had ever seen in Vang Vieng.<br />
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From here we caught a bus back to LP and then cycled north through rolling hills and valleys to Pakmong and Nong Khoia, a stunning village nestled amongst giant karst cliffs and caves. We then jumped back on a river boat – this time up the Nam Ou River - a much quieter river than the Mekong but just as stunning. We enjoyed being the only tourists on the boat as we stopped in at riverside villages to drop off or pick up locals. This trip possibly won't be doable for much longer due to the extensive hydro projects that are in progress on the river.</div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPovNuSxbyN8QM02wx5bXczUIbOn-GyPoic-Pceb1iQAKelTqO2VTQCjahUN6LSfpH63fr76HrjTDLISdKDeVRnsON0r-m4412LayGEjAq8CZMezEkKt4bxPRXav4fyXGFKBuVIRj6Wht/s1600/Snapshot+1+%25286-08-2016+3-19+PM%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPovNuSxbyN8QM02wx5bXczUIbOn-GyPoic-Pceb1iQAKelTqO2VTQCjahUN6LSfpH63fr76HrjTDLISdKDeVRnsON0r-m4412LayGEjAq8CZMezEkKt4bxPRXav4fyXGFKBuVIRj6Wht/s640/Snapshot+1+%25286-08-2016+3-19+PM%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit of storm action, Vang Vieng</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLmLy29ai8MVuzm4My6ZLUaTfUYe6vVwU8rhOj-CTMgnslkoY27hIIuQ3HzbHPZ0dUjQfzUMfw6-tZKqBQba8bE7mR2QvGfFLylZ58iWIv5MxEKecmSoE0_Pk-2BWlQLezNTW3dOw2ECo/s1600/2016-07-30+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLmLy29ai8MVuzm4My6ZLUaTfUYe6vVwU8rhOj-CTMgnslkoY27hIIuQ3HzbHPZ0dUjQfzUMfw6-tZKqBQba8bE7mR2QvGfFLylZ58iWIv5MxEKecmSoE0_Pk-2BWlQLezNTW3dOw2ECo/s640/2016-07-30+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Nam Ou river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv631MQ3bVZnUf4Ogi6DxN4Axn4Ytsm0eOlzYQHCwNJUh0XIGLiOn-c-g35m3D0J_QnjmpJervrx6__u0ec13NSrrunpEqCEnxkeUXp7GrL4z21G0Iqbywe9bCLZrvJ8kmbVe1vUJpjpg_/s1600/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv631MQ3bVZnUf4Ogi6DxN4Axn4Ytsm0eOlzYQHCwNJUh0XIGLiOn-c-g35m3D0J_QnjmpJervrx6__u0ec13NSrrunpEqCEnxkeUXp7GrL4z21G0Iqbywe9bCLZrvJ8kmbVe1vUJpjpg_/s640/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nong Khoia, Nam Ou River, Laos</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNvefCuz-_BxnxBizLOxgwzulRfPuffeBXJ_mvCIHMvimpp0GgaNcsOPOvT0IM7gVWa93KTQ3N0Kr0_8jpVbT8ZNIG0bTN5qILeTpnx7TBHgP9YQzf4WLshR5bkgI_bVNs7NZGs9RAJCp/s1600/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNvefCuz-_BxnxBizLOxgwzulRfPuffeBXJ_mvCIHMvimpp0GgaNcsOPOvT0IM7gVWa93KTQ3N0Kr0_8jpVbT8ZNIG0bTN5qILeTpnx7TBHgP9YQzf4WLshR5bkgI_bVNs7NZGs9RAJCp/s640/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+080.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life on the River</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyjC5DZuXmSfxjU5CRAKS8QZEFrPfioCvjyLup2-MSfnW_KuJxDiznyQ6DOOtYfiZu19jtim_RY2nDRUtT1VdVUp2rrxS8Ga_9BntSjr45OSCuWEvSmULigk4r2nG4C-94TMzhwfccSkOd/s1600/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyjC5DZuXmSfxjU5CRAKS8QZEFrPfioCvjyLup2-MSfnW_KuJxDiznyQ6DOOtYfiZu19jtim_RY2nDRUtT1VdVUp2rrxS8Ga_9BntSjr45OSCuWEvSmULigk4r2nG4C-94TMzhwfccSkOd/s640/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy making friends</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uuj0z_7Mv6D5u30uz06pj5A24o9encWm_dMlUbd5dYYlwhPFXH7Wh5YC_ptymC9E97-MluBnTO_6WPwYEObedykfeoEG4E-1Nu5Wmg1w9QmxLUe4NY9YPO9zaC42Sl-BhdL_kkR2HUk6/s1600/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uuj0z_7Mv6D5u30uz06pj5A24o9encWm_dMlUbd5dYYlwhPFXH7Wh5YC_ptymC9E97-MluBnTO_6WPwYEObedykfeoEG4E-1Nu5Wmg1w9QmxLUe4NY9YPO9zaC42Sl-BhdL_kkR2HUk6/s640/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nam Ou River</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhevdLNDRNZWhADYRRdoA_Jtef6bair7ohIJRQUKX9rJ7RDogik41aSevUV96BD7ZIUzGeGCMekm3s2jR1b44-O8VKi7I7tiDJds1sD0WYmWiglIh_IdgPIdr8Z10CDOaFWuMYRBpeCBGse/s1600/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhevdLNDRNZWhADYRRdoA_Jtef6bair7ohIJRQUKX9rJ7RDogik41aSevUV96BD7ZIUzGeGCMekm3s2jR1b44-O8VKi7I7tiDJds1sD0WYmWiglIh_IdgPIdr8Z10CDOaFWuMYRBpeCBGse/s640/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-07-31+045.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nam Ou River</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29GYO5mbXS0U30_C007Fq3qSs8cFlVV-70Dh19e6DQMJQiI71XVejG9hfubqkkxxqR9Og6ndqc35Afwki3n5xJJl1hCCz76PUFjotq1V1d9ALpykvQi5CL_sip-UuGBnVlE9o4-Gbsd1X/s1600/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29GYO5mbXS0U30_C007Fq3qSs8cFlVV-70Dh19e6DQMJQiI71XVejG9hfubqkkxxqR9Og6ndqc35Afwki3n5xJJl1hCCz76PUFjotq1V1d9ALpykvQi5CL_sip-UuGBnVlE9o4-Gbsd1X/s640/2016-07-31+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+104.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mgong Khua, last night in Laos</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsEuAHrMLGxHdwg7L_qHfMjPPa8zpZOBlqXyfblt3eDF4xSpME_H09re5rU4yj6tKJoxVM5ABhqTzReIHQmGDMZPnMwaaIoLw8BM6wGmBZuafej000eEwJTP2U1BzSDYr9ptiXmx7dkwQ/s1600/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsEuAHrMLGxHdwg7L_qHfMjPPa8zpZOBlqXyfblt3eDF4xSpME_H09re5rU4yj6tKJoxVM5ABhqTzReIHQmGDMZPnMwaaIoLw8BM6wGmBZuafej000eEwJTP2U1BzSDYr9ptiXmx7dkwQ/s640/2016-07-27+LPtoVangVieng+AJM+060.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Practicing my cycling skills</td></tr>
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There is something gloriously simple about waving to children as you cycle past and one of our favourite memories of Laos will be the endless friendly children who line the road as you bike past, all chorusing “sabaideeeee” and either lining up for high fives or just standing and quietly waving. <br />
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Our final day (after the late night visitor) was 100km over the mountains into Vietnam – a daunting prospect but one which proved to be a pleasant and enjoyable ride thanks to the good road quality and gradient. It only got really steep the last 9 kms from the top, by which time we were satisfied we would actually make it, even if it took a long time! We had stocked up on our Laos staples – takeaway packs of sticky rice, large bottles of 7UP and even found a delicious bowl on noodle soup en route (Pho).<br />
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The change as we entered Vietnam couldn’t have been more pronounced - immediate deterioration of road conditions (until we met the main road), constant tooting, flat wide open valleys with rice, hundreds of motorbikes and a much busier feel on the streets.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkGzQLA42ulSUZu3YpGb27qFqwVsUlmLe9mWeVZq9FWgwtWYTQFEe8xQpNkBllaz8XXMDjTfmhTJy6P3uDcKp7h1BSrUfPUAaeYAa-eeapd6id8jkg45NGTwEDZYdUh4P_CBvATQNqsuM/s1600/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-08-01+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkGzQLA42ulSUZu3YpGb27qFqwVsUlmLe9mWeVZq9FWgwtWYTQFEe8xQpNkBllaz8XXMDjTfmhTJy6P3uDcKp7h1BSrUfPUAaeYAa-eeapd6id8jkg45NGTwEDZYdUh4P_CBvATQNqsuM/s640/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-08-01+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woohoo!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgYSFYnCzDnycxQuPHOBheadfABvWi1sKXimqwfg8m3C60-jQQVFwXNEvJ18Ss7cmz-hA4XlH-Q2T9q6-i_8nyaiy9FztJ-IHQnOBr-r_TN0v2BPX1P4cnaxxZI25Qi37a8Y1Ypstd4Q-/s1600/2016-08-01+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgYSFYnCzDnycxQuPHOBheadfABvWi1sKXimqwfg8m3C60-jQQVFwXNEvJ18Ss7cmz-hA4XlH-Q2T9q6-i_8nyaiy9FztJ-IHQnOBr-r_TN0v2BPX1P4cnaxxZI25Qi37a8Y1Ypstd4Q-/s640/2016-08-01+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+010.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the downhill!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCRBySYLYEwuSfue6-bfPQLrkpM7v0PiigPWZDMt8HZ9GLthOVuW3r9UMLNWjSWxhsunsmzz88BLJ5ICkMx2qh_yHSYwqOMIM0YhAX9gVzCsaSKYc49z3MHAaBmV5mg66FP0LfQRfxKx1/s1600/IMG_2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCRBySYLYEwuSfue6-bfPQLrkpM7v0PiigPWZDMt8HZ9GLthOVuW3r9UMLNWjSWxhsunsmzz88BLJ5ICkMx2qh_yHSYwqOMIM0YhAX9gVzCsaSKYc49z3MHAaBmV5mg66FP0LfQRfxKx1/s640/IMG_2016.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Vietnamese are just as good as piling their bicycles full of stuff as elsewhere in Asia!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgFJG3Skr-CN-TrLQPRF-muoL-yBD0lG7O5aoNygQFkp9v8tELLTh9ehokhXJWT27cGOyB7D-ht3zQwpEE_0kwI6A04uyp_Suxd30N11P8QxhejkbDmQnPu3hEWH1BIbRKjKq-jGohyphenhyphenpRT/s1600/2016-08-01+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgFJG3Skr-CN-TrLQPRF-muoL-yBD0lG7O5aoNygQFkp9v8tELLTh9ehokhXJWT27cGOyB7D-ht3zQwpEE_0kwI6A04uyp_Suxd30N11P8QxhejkbDmQnPu3hEWH1BIbRKjKq-jGohyphenhyphenpRT/s640/2016-08-01+VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+AJM+049.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal Life, Lau Chau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSsWGNrzECzy0YFiuSVYzPSjANWEGRQ9poXj41rP3rg4JVC_6c1R6liI4eE1BBi1maqXqPJDHx-hpq1ZdfVppfnL_D5mLlbH4iyu8UkWUUO7jSinRlk8HIqA3kaka2Tz1vDUFk8BX4T70/s1600/IMG_2052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSsWGNrzECzy0YFiuSVYzPSjANWEGRQ9poXj41rP3rg4JVC_6c1R6liI4eE1BBi1maqXqPJDHx-hpq1ZdfVppfnL_D5mLlbH4iyu8UkWUUO7jSinRlk8HIqA3kaka2Tz1vDUFk8BX4T70/s640/IMG_2052.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn time!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidq2Tzl-tEcoEooS_lizGg-eUo3SD05-l8Fqj02-ms_NMWk_37N4Y90zIgz3oVMB8HJS86v65hfQhsH0Nr_3Z7HXHXOTpioeV9OCwaCfw0OOSanZ7ptmrLi6ImqlrgFTbt449Y3x3kbjXe/s1600/IMG_2062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidq2Tzl-tEcoEooS_lizGg-eUo3SD05-l8Fqj02-ms_NMWk_37N4Y90zIgz3oVMB8HJS86v65hfQhsH0Nr_3Z7HXHXOTpioeV9OCwaCfw0OOSanZ7ptmrLi6ImqlrgFTbt449Y3x3kbjXe/s640/IMG_2062.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV18i0zDqOVH0d9bgfN7YWDQtu_VghXLrcyqKMreFxjo04Wy6p3PqlFtzXs7wiDXCOeQ9_SpkSYrwxAPj-QHEtCtJlb9IS7D2V7KZ6ba1CuvtxyeYTS5UD3MpNi8ofUnmCAMLr8BInzSst/s1600/IMG_2070b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV18i0zDqOVH0d9bgfN7YWDQtu_VghXLrcyqKMreFxjo04Wy6p3PqlFtzXs7wiDXCOeQ9_SpkSYrwxAPj-QHEtCtJlb9IS7D2V7KZ6ba1CuvtxyeYTS5UD3MpNi8ofUnmCAMLr8BInzSst/s640/IMG_2070b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun in the drains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLQpuvSQ2ZjjA_TwtO4Ux9hSpyYvFN2rkcNaP81T06QHgAX5BTTwdisc2aSb3JaVeC_Gw0JlhPkBKngnJOS_bJMupqAA6Sy5HAXzyuRxhsSWogHvypNavp4Imzwjv3rl3iuwyWpqmtoxF/s1600/IMG_2210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLQpuvSQ2ZjjA_TwtO4Ux9hSpyYvFN2rkcNaP81T06QHgAX5BTTwdisc2aSb3JaVeC_Gw0JlhPkBKngnJOS_bJMupqAA6Sy5HAXzyuRxhsSWogHvypNavp4Imzwjv3rl3iuwyWpqmtoxF/s640/IMG_2210.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loving life, approaching "Heaven's Gate", close to Sa Pa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindMKJ9ORdt0UNDrwhJXT3qTTAzqd8swvsiYiaC294CD2j85y0dh_EY4hJdNG5cOkpn1GyoCY-LxsWMk12n3lVXQ8UbP7Ma09jXAjcbDWqgtJQaMl21W39fkcsw-zTRYAzuoYaDnUEkjPQ/s1600/LP+to+Vang+Vieng+MM+2016-07-26+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindMKJ9ORdt0UNDrwhJXT3qTTAzqd8swvsiYiaC294CD2j85y0dh_EY4hJdNG5cOkpn1GyoCY-LxsWMk12n3lVXQ8UbP7Ma09jXAjcbDWqgtJQaMl21W39fkcsw-zTRYAzuoYaDnUEkjPQ/s640/LP+to+Vang+Vieng+MM+2016-07-26+010.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy feeling particularly victorious!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Our goal in northern Vietnam was cycling up to Sa Pa - a crazy resort town high in the mountains. After a day in Dien Bien Phu, we caught a sneaky bus to Lai Chau and from there biked the final 70km to Sapa. This involved a 1300m climb over 30km, but again, the gradient was such that it was a lovely ride, sustained but very doable. We arrived 6pm, in thick fog to a pumping main street - crowds of tourists, the infamous H’mong Sa Pa ladies who follow you round pestering you for a sale, booked out guesthouses and expensive food!! Good to have arrived but ugh!!!</div>
<div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkRSGNqZhjID7RxbK__lzkO0KtZZ7Jikk3gwEj7AeYAGMRMve5LXPKcU4K-pHqDz6O7uaWqrZ70boAcbfndg8JfQSGeRnTdM6qUk1ZOzAqR-rbDzP55iihpxf5rP_Kx3Zp_y0jYs5ZzTK/s1600/LP+to+Vang+Vieng+MM+2016-07-26+030+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkRSGNqZhjID7RxbK__lzkO0KtZZ7Jikk3gwEj7AeYAGMRMve5LXPKcU4K-pHqDz6O7uaWqrZ70boAcbfndg8JfQSGeRnTdM6qUk1ZOzAqR-rbDzP55iihpxf5rP_Kx3Zp_y0jYs5ZzTK/s640/LP+to+Vang+Vieng+MM+2016-07-26+030+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo76l4Y_zXS5hEcqpaunGX7T9pDuUAqgG7a1zKB_Rzk1jrkjpXpgK5rtaF-0WqUC59aCz7Hxjd45j3qJ-u4qjeXWTnTrciHOHane61R_iiG_jmomti7EajXhzFHy0HwC6NMZAI_FjJjNv/s1600/IMG_2180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo76l4Y_zXS5hEcqpaunGX7T9pDuUAqgG7a1zKB_Rzk1jrkjpXpgK5rtaF-0WqUC59aCz7Hxjd45j3qJ-u4qjeXWTnTrciHOHane61R_iiG_jmomti7EajXhzFHy0HwC6NMZAI_FjJjNv/s640/IMG_2180.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sa Pa rice terraces</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKtOBbG8jpfK-0j4b-MHB1Wj5PhUjorurn_YD9uvDCY5JNrRA_sAxELwMyTTD9maK7oTOxzyX1Eo5MMHxmPDeF6J4mZt3fUlSdn7-0ikHy4SmQ0WAjQ00p1weZUmJ-niOOYFhhxRCtRgy6/s1600/IMG_2221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKtOBbG8jpfK-0j4b-MHB1Wj5PhUjorurn_YD9uvDCY5JNrRA_sAxELwMyTTD9maK7oTOxzyX1Eo5MMHxmPDeF6J4mZt3fUlSdn7-0ikHy4SmQ0WAjQ00p1weZUmJ-niOOYFhhxRCtRgy6/s640/IMG_2221.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last pass of the trip! 2010m and about to go back down!! We enjoyed several Oreo's as our summit celebration!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Supplementary Section for the Hard Core</span></b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Caution: Literary Works Follow That May Contain Many Words. </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Don't Read If your a Night Owl & It's Early Morning, If You're Lacking in Coffee or Been Staring at Your Computer Screen for Too Long!</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Heat and Mind<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Heat<o:p></o:p></div>
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Mind Battles<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sucks you dry<o:p></o:p></div>
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Normally easy, now torturous<o:p></o:p></div>
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10am and already thirty-seven degrees<o:p></o:p></div>
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Beaming up from tar-seal<o:p></o:p></div>
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Keep cycling uphill<o:p></o:p></div>
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Mind battles<o:p></o:p></div>
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Craziness!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Heat<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Give up?<o:p></o:p></div>
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Shade, shade, shade,<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How long till shade?<o:p></o:p></div>
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Overpowers, engulfs, strangles, empties, cooks<o:p></o:p></div>
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Even the breeze warms<o:p></o:p></div>
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Must Keep Riding!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Mind battles<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Craziness!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heat<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s diminishing?<o:p></o:p></div>
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Breeze less warming<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pausing slightly less but</div>
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Dreams of Cold 7-Up remain<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hope seeps back inside</div>
Weary, Sapped, Sweaty<br />
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Salty, gritty<br />
<div>
Relief!<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Andy M - Aug 2016</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Mekong River</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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A giant mass, winding it's way through the mountains,</div>
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Pumping, Flowing, Swirling</div>
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<br /></div>
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A life-giving passage, in both the ebbs and the flows,</div>
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Food, Water, Transport</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A mighty force, pushing against the boat, </div>
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carving out sand, rocks and land</div>
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<br /></div>
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A river of a thousand stories, from the clear tibetian highlands,</div>
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to the muddy jungle, to the sandy delta</div>
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All who live on and near here,</div>
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need, respect and love this river</div>
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Yet amongst the flow, bottles, jandals, plastic,</div>
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testament to the changing times sweeping downriver</div>
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<br /></div>
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From speedboats to slow boats to fishing canoes,</div>
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Many travel and traverse it's length</div>
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<br /></div>
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Be kind. The river is life. </div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i>Miri, July 2016</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNQSzQcju5dhCo-Tj4Y6pWwAySAHBpJgsK5Y11gOSvTNlwCXuOHCLv9xhvg1phjS6UZYFp5UpG7PptaSy_Zqhglpg6yvTvcln9NheXhqgNvUcAshPGXm5wiRNqxlVrDjAvZwBide4i2N0/s1600/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-08-01+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNQSzQcju5dhCo-Tj4Y6pWwAySAHBpJgsK5Y11gOSvTNlwCXuOHCLv9xhvg1phjS6UZYFp5UpG7PptaSy_Zqhglpg6yvTvcln9NheXhqgNvUcAshPGXm5wiRNqxlVrDjAvZwBide4i2N0/s640/VangVieng+to+DienBienPhu+MM+2016-08-01+009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a treat if you made it to the end!!!! (Gotta keep uphill riding entertaining amidst the pain!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-50571994230012319182016-07-16T03:12:00.001-07:002016-07-16T07:02:27.452-07:00Myanmar - Misty Mountains, Minorities and the First Puncture!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Summary:</h3>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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- We have spent the last three weeks travelling through
Myanmar – by bike, bus and train. (See "We Love Maps" page for a "Work in Progress" route we took.)<br />
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- We have linked some of the more well-known tourist spots with some fantastic rural backroad riding – a real highlight!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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- We are now crossing Northern Thailand by public transport, to enter Laos at Huay Xai, where we will float down the Mekong for a few days before arriving in Luang Prabang.<br />
- Andy claims first puncture at 3996KM and first case of Delhi Belli at 4076 KM<br />
<br />
<u>Route:</u></div>
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Yangon - Mandalay (Bus) </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Mandalay - Sagaing - Myingyan - Nyaung-U (Bagan) (Bike) </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Bagan to Kalaw (Bus)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Kalaw- Inn Thein - Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake) via a cool back road! - Pinlaung - Naypyitaw via very cool mountain roads (Bike) </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Naypyitaw - Bago (Train) - Hpa An (Shared van) </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> - Kawkareik (Bike) - Myawaddy - Mae Sot (Thailand)</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQ7Wzs5KcU36LRM6ljnUs01vddwjSjMaa_xsPNWEG-OAiuv3RwhJHjAmLzmtXPtrS_MMGo1s5oiBonR8neYi9KqdxiOI00HIIK9fzJErsNfH_m5wpd_d2KJq08EGplJGPgSYEavDEiVf7/s1600/20160712_155519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQ7Wzs5KcU36LRM6ljnUs01vddwjSjMaa_xsPNWEG-OAiuv3RwhJHjAmLzmtXPtrS_MMGo1s5oiBonR8neYi9KqdxiOI00HIIK9fzJErsNfH_m5wpd_d2KJq08EGplJGPgSYEavDEiVf7/s1600/20160712_155519.jpg" /></a></div>
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Lush, green, rural, monsoon! Myanmar is definitely a place
of local charm. We were incredibly privileged to spend our first few days eating and being with with a extended & amazingly hospitable local family in Yangon. They were from the Chin Province, but with some NZ connections. It took us a few days to soak up the massive shift to life in Asia in a local neighbourhood where tourists would not normally hang out. Incredible!!!<br />
<br />
Mandalay. 7:30am, we leave our hotel, pushing down on the pedals and entering an endless sea of moto’s and bicycle tuktuks, which all seemed to swerve and mingle seamlessly into each other. We continue onto winding
rural roads dotted with men and women working in the fields, with all manner of
old and decrepit vehicles passing us with a toot and a wave! <br />
<br />
We hear incessant tooting, as every vehicle passing each other let's the other one know they're there. Across the street a lady selling raw chicken is tipping her blood onto the gutter, as she chops up portions for sale. We pass street stalls, selling everything from locusts to take-away bags of noodles and curry. <br />
<br />
Further out of town we pass by a thriving market, with stalls of freshly caught huuuuge fish, paw-paws, mangos, bananas either side of narrow paths navigated by motorbikes, pedestrians and cart-pushers going about their daily routine. From the next-door Buddhist Pagoda some charming Asian music rings out over the speakers, a pleasant change from the chanting that we've heard all morning from the local Temple or Monastery nearby. We cycle on, having no idea what we might come across next on our road....<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6xis3lrAI7fRYLp503M53FUcxZZMWYP8qsqnqOlXj435Su2lBeWIAZkEmot60X1U69acaToNcgGpHSs9rHFSyspJLNr4ao84sBM1i5ZW1O9MIbEE5uMwIcTegs2nbiZT8fPiYGH5inSG5/s1600/2016-07-11+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6xis3lrAI7fRYLp503M53FUcxZZMWYP8qsqnqOlXj435Su2lBeWIAZkEmot60X1U69acaToNcgGpHSs9rHFSyspJLNr4ao84sBM1i5ZW1O9MIbEE5uMwIcTegs2nbiZT8fPiYGH5inSG5/s640/2016-07-11+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring the extensive Burmese markets which are the focal point of each town centre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkI4Pfe6H8Iru75gIS2d9eCZhVFOEMkNETQWRG5qYup0iTdNrKhes-elsc6zt6f8BYZf-2BvtUC0YJQ_OCsm-I7tEJrezTCmiJDMjvYEqJds-eMVHylAotHF0iLf_QeZsW_OokOcZ6aQP/s1600/IMG_7700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkI4Pfe6H8Iru75gIS2d9eCZhVFOEMkNETQWRG5qYup0iTdNrKhes-elsc6zt6f8BYZf-2BvtUC0YJQ_OCsm-I7tEJrezTCmiJDMjvYEqJds-eMVHylAotHF0iLf_QeZsW_OokOcZ6aQP/s640/IMG_7700.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking our location in Mandaaly - heading south!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1CGSBMWg7EWn40-cKbtINRVfFI5wLP2eZGQ0GYnsmSvmrn9Pi7VvAx0pde4Xf1H6iQgmRbxbM2e8nfS8H8xAeILxDdwGSs_HDzxpHhXpLTKL8WM44oQcS2eeMZzBppCn46y8yO7OGULw/s1600/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1CGSBMWg7EWn40-cKbtINRVfFI5wLP2eZGQ0GYnsmSvmrn9Pi7VvAx0pde4Xf1H6iQgmRbxbM2e8nfS8H8xAeILxDdwGSs_HDzxpHhXpLTKL8WM44oQcS2eeMZzBppCn46y8yO7OGULw/s640/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+021.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It seemed most trucks and tractors had no bonnets, which meant you would hear vehicles long before you saw them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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From Manadaly we followed the Ayeyawaddy River south for a
while, fascinated with the life which happens on and around this great river – women washing
clothes, ferries, container boats, canoes, trucks and endless supplies of goods
being transported around. We found a man selling “jang yeh” – sugar cane juice
which is squeezed in front of you from an ancient machine, corn ladies, cups
of “la pey yeh” (Burmese tea with
condensed milk) and bowls of steaming noodle soup. Our fascination of having arrived
in the largest country in SE Asia lasted several days, with just so much life and sights to absorb while
biking!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFKEpJCvW_eDtExGMsJB3T2KI279xq3Nt9IJFP7jdnSvjYSQNB30nbrUZPAwdGLJFF-uA6Jdd_Fw_OK50xjwQhdHewAcDBjqW3ArVrIVbhyd2kfwg0nLODMlwI1-qYM1TFLD5IG1R3SkM/s1600/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFKEpJCvW_eDtExGMsJB3T2KI279xq3Nt9IJFP7jdnSvjYSQNB30nbrUZPAwdGLJFF-uA6Jdd_Fw_OK50xjwQhdHewAcDBjqW3ArVrIVbhyd2kfwg0nLODMlwI1-qYM1TFLD5IG1R3SkM/s640/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+020.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar Cane Juice - a refreshing treat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszQP2m2fDmwmcivlQMznrEjVde3c3uW8W5tv-upONTTLmDa91uux070Xs2jEEvuWFd0s0hiXoaJTgq_gZV-RSxJP9mm2VL1GUkIpD29p096HojCFYxoYSQl1Zo8jICEfynGuRhKo5BjMn/s1600/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszQP2m2fDmwmcivlQMznrEjVde3c3uW8W5tv-upONTTLmDa91uux070Xs2jEEvuWFd0s0hiXoaJTgq_gZV-RSxJP9mm2VL1GUkIpD29p096HojCFYxoYSQl1Zo8jICEfynGuRhKo5BjMn/s640/Yangon+to+Sagaing+MM+2016-07-01+029.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats underneath U Bein bridge connecting villages accross a lake on the road between Mandalay and Sagaing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVWBDByS9mtVzd6MHunSTF12qwyQIEDVoVsoD3OYctBaAaVcCgog2mSJ3vR_CU1BaJbG3ycZ3Qg1bL7pzC9SYjNqANQgZpz2y3mQfPfn162HQn1cuguz26hR-G60STB4aahSsSlVNpG3m/s1600/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVWBDByS9mtVzd6MHunSTF12qwyQIEDVoVsoD3OYctBaAaVcCgog2mSJ3vR_CU1BaJbG3ycZ3Qg1bL7pzC9SYjNqANQgZpz2y3mQfPfn162HQn1cuguz26hR-G60STB4aahSsSlVNpG3m/s640/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+071.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just out to get some chicken for dinner! (All still live)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our route took us through Bagan, a place of almost mythical mystery, a riverside
area, with thousands of ancient temples and pagodas hidden amongst the scrub.
As you climb to the top, you can look out and see the tops of hundreds of others poking
through the trees – you would need days and endless energy to explore them all!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCwIwnigmv7DR2M3fzcUiNBxQ9bwLUH3SQACPqEKzHefmzMYHly1IK51j9UMXmu-zEIniDYTJXIq4M-FnN-l8fEiVwm5MiTUS3O9J52-Gk48BvBOofG0JT2ho61coIExQHG7t2RFzWWbv/s1600/IMG_0185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCwIwnigmv7DR2M3fzcUiNBxQ9bwLUH3SQACPqEKzHefmzMYHly1IK51j9UMXmu-zEIniDYTJXIq4M-FnN-l8fEiVwm5MiTUS3O9J52-Gk48BvBOofG0JT2ho61coIExQHG7t2RFzWWbv/s640/IMG_0185.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bagan temples (a few of them)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBfa6iYb2yIhw5q-zm0zo12LBifXiU9WAdVbnZB82jE_CvnU6x58In9kjjyKvb9SS2t3z5xCZKz3SpBJlLNzcKbFjEs0BCSURc-zK7-16R2Ph5FTE8kXWvhP2A14flugEG8MMylp9E8T1/s1600/IMG_0071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpBfa6iYb2yIhw5q-zm0zo12LBifXiU9WAdVbnZB82jE_CvnU6x58In9kjjyKvb9SS2t3z5xCZKz3SpBJlLNzcKbFjEs0BCSURc-zK7-16R2Ph5FTE8kXWvhP2A14flugEG8MMylp9E8T1/s640/IMG_0071.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road to Bagan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After sweating it out down on the central plains, we headed
for the hills (and the rain) up around Inle Lake. We changed from Plan A to
Plan B while on the bus, and then rapidly back to Plan A once we rolled into
Kalaw, a cool mountain town nestled in the misty mountain tops. At the last
possible moment we jumped off the bus and sought out “Joe”, a local guy who
takes bike tours with tourists who was apparently a good man to talk to. He
lived up to his reputation and next day we were on our way with a hand-drawn
map of some sweet back roads “no problem!” he said!!<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhji8CS_3bSHlrnncN-1OLjZESAwnbaXW2k_DG_n8zN5PCgIFLgSktCCoWSQx-K7DpiynCPpa47wHNp06OKDVE7P1aNvhPCKCapfQdkSYaaIRD7OBlAQvc9MFF_wuxIHymQzR6eMJraYGNp/s1600/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhji8CS_3bSHlrnncN-1OLjZESAwnbaXW2k_DG_n8zN5PCgIFLgSktCCoWSQx-K7DpiynCPpa47wHNp06OKDVE7P1aNvhPCKCapfQdkSYaaIRD7OBlAQvc9MFF_wuxIHymQzR6eMJraYGNp/s640/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pedalling the back road to Inle Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuCpePBgKdAyh1mZ2jeHOgARfwMIpLMvXG1nKNO5uXnpFw4WjQHFNB573mambV0zWoZ4hgVMHHL3KI2CZ1FhvKZRSgxQrR-Sv74tLD75I-04mHhb5GEnLVf_pm7mT4yaIYb4HnwBl5CGk_/s1600/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuCpePBgKdAyh1mZ2jeHOgARfwMIpLMvXG1nKNO5uXnpFw4WjQHFNB573mambV0zWoZ4hgVMHHL3KI2CZ1FhvKZRSgxQrR-Sv74tLD75I-04mHhb5GEnLVf_pm7mT4yaIYb4HnwBl5CGk_/s640/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning patchwork of crops, tea plantations, rice and trees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNiemWk6uv_LwJLiSRY-f-hEBekttcjCoj6SE-tQsYjxvypaYj-71EY2TlB53GBE-AVdtDflnJKs5XouQQIzlpRmF2mTy8X9p3_g7CKol7393u3ZuEDw798IcVt4gM3DSjw0rWMbc6H-o/s1600/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNiemWk6uv_LwJLiSRY-f-hEBekttcjCoj6SE-tQsYjxvypaYj-71EY2TlB53GBE-AVdtDflnJKs5XouQQIzlpRmF2mTy8X9p3_g7CKol7393u3ZuEDw798IcVt4gM3DSjw0rWMbc6H-o/s640/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+038.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bit of single track riding when the gravel road became too rough to ride (picture doesn't quite do it justice!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRDZleO0qcgB8JPtdrbP3ezkiu1QXrUaT_KEQkqDG86uDn8DyiwWED-5o5__3ykj_0WFqROlO33N-oWdHaAzl5lMHG8DsPh2mbqrAdsSD-QjfWfWm4-Cv9KQsoQnplgjjc3__DLKgXjrp/s1600/IMG_0288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRDZleO0qcgB8JPtdrbP3ezkiu1QXrUaT_KEQkqDG86uDn8DyiwWED-5o5__3ykj_0WFqROlO33N-oWdHaAzl5lMHG8DsPh2mbqrAdsSD-QjfWfWm4-Cv9KQsoQnplgjjc3__DLKgXjrp/s640/IMG_0288.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving in Indein Village for lunch, Inle Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It is always a highlight
to get off the main roads on the bike and see normal life happening. Our roads
through these parts were teeming with people working in the fields and as we
rolled through the hills we felt a real sense of privilege at being able to
bike these roads at this time. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg__DfiWBTL-BY7VOCMEIrWzx9k8rTasAVyonwsgvW6iBhGTJdEVDs6erBW9Hp2l9Lsn-c2bIWT5NFiXGMMSkwE1wcemKgoJ48eKGNxGCf6PMxQlSiikXIGpQJ-7c6MCw6tG-j8_O9iZGMw/s1600/IMG_0234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg__DfiWBTL-BY7VOCMEIrWzx9k8rTasAVyonwsgvW6iBhGTJdEVDs6erBW9Hp2l9Lsn-c2bIWT5NFiXGMMSkwE1wcemKgoJ48eKGNxGCf6PMxQlSiikXIGpQJ-7c6MCw6tG-j8_O9iZGMw/s640/IMG_0234.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alternative form of transport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ojQlYj_qW5aR0hB2GckoLHyyLZTyUqHuZatG81DoQf9rgoJ3w4A6q824s7qK0vrGj8mPRw5KpzhyrOKaZ0GudS5TkPUa7OUmNp-gvK8Z4tU9tnU1_6cXL9B7_2TI-1PgEXKlZN4EF4US/s1600/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ojQlYj_qW5aR0hB2GckoLHyyLZTyUqHuZatG81DoQf9rgoJ3w4A6q824s7qK0vrGj8mPRw5KpzhyrOKaZ0GudS5TkPUa7OUmNp-gvK8Z4tU9tnU1_6cXL9B7_2TI-1PgEXKlZN4EF4US/s640/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+036.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LOVED this old man!! His wrinkles told the story of a hundred years and he was wandering<br />
along happily to somewhere!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHOiW8D4f9BVRQOcWtjX4e12f677RgArQ_qr5DGr-qp9-oJ7E8ec2zJsM24-IThro6DOEpeogZLEdvEHjSaXBmigRc40Gw6K44Unq-dtR2Y7C9_wrMHk294X9JsoeTE6EstZeHsegR-5o/s1600/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHOiW8D4f9BVRQOcWtjX4e12f677RgArQ_qr5DGr-qp9-oJ7E8ec2zJsM24-IThro6DOEpeogZLEdvEHjSaXBmigRc40Gw6K44Unq-dtR2Y7C9_wrMHk294X9JsoeTE6EstZeHsegR-5o/s640/2016-07-06+SagaingtoInle+MM+037.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women working in the field, close to Indein Village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It is an interesting time in Myanmar’s history – as the
country is rapidly opening up to development and foreigner access, there seems to be more slightly more freedom for locals and
foreigners alike. We learnt about how traffic lights and road overbridges and
sky TV have all arrived in the last three years, which has transformed life for
many (well, the entertainment options at least!) One local, Su Su, asked us
what suggestions we had for her country and while she had a list of excellent,
well-needed environmental improvements (using less plastic bags, stopping
deforestation etc) I told her I could only hope that in the bid to grow tourism
they do not lose what is special about this place. Already there are stories of
“fishermen” at Inle Lake dressing up and posing for tourists while you pay for
the privilege of photographing them, but I hope this doesn’t become common
place. </div>
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We have been quite aware that we are amongst an early wave of tourism
and have felt somewhat challenged to make considered choices – I want to
encourage healthy life-giving tourism, not a cheapening of culture! Despite this economic growth, there are still many issues facing the people here - land-grabbing for these development projects and continued human rights cases see many people living under the power of the military still. We learnt a small amount about the refugees living along the Thai border - camps that have been in existence for 30 years with no sign of reintegration or repatriation. The conflicts here are deep-rooted, very much on-going and complex. Check out this video if you are interested, or read the entire website (awesome info!)<a href="http://www.burmalink.org/" target="_blank"> www.burmalink.org</a>. There is a really good background to Burma <a href="http://www.burmalink.org/background/burma/overview/" target="_blank">here.</a><br />
<br /></div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OuK1JOyjugo" width="560"></iframe>
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Monsoon season is not perhaps the best time for cycle
touring but I have loved cycling through lush green valleys, with rice fields
and bananas palms and corn crops everywhere, while looking up to the hills on
either side – to the west a gathering mass of monsoon storm clouds rolling over
the tops while on the eastern side puffy piles of cumulous, bathed in sunlight,
highlighting the greenness all around. As the storm clouds sweep through the
valley it has been with a mixture of awe and relief once the cooling rain
finally found us, and then regret that it passed all too soon.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_iMOLzvtNhKy2sqpb-KChMQ296ywc9Xt-kZEKcEqjUhA_CtWeaKfQSPAzoirfAmjdWmCgY276icDSMDk1j4PzbPtnuznCGYOZZQ3q5kwMhiseO11OfIrG7Q1EaqEG5XCd3Wft7D8i4Kt/s1600/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_iMOLzvtNhKy2sqpb-KChMQ296ywc9Xt-kZEKcEqjUhA_CtWeaKfQSPAzoirfAmjdWmCgY276icDSMDk1j4PzbPtnuznCGYOZZQ3q5kwMhiseO11OfIrG7Q1EaqEG5XCd3Wft7D8i4Kt/s640/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking towards Pinlaung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERq8yeT_Qs8zxwBhJtDqKLBF3c2k5-8XdhyphenhyphentlLE9-hUcsryHKEEFQruPppmnv21pTZbIF_NVspbfX3WfziQd_iY-c00lBOebI8fIbI3uu1MQMSI0uyxwl7gkpEo2C0zbpwt3VlER2gaGB/s1600/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERq8yeT_Qs8zxwBhJtDqKLBF3c2k5-8XdhyphenhyphentlLE9-hUcsryHKEEFQruPppmnv21pTZbIF_NVspbfX3WfziQd_iY-c00lBOebI8fIbI3uu1MQMSI0uyxwl7gkpEo2C0zbpwt3VlER2gaGB/s640/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+151.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a patch of sunshine before the next shower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Joe (Burmese bike guide) had assured us that the route he
suggested from Pinlaung to Naypyitaw was “mostly downhill” and about 70 miles
(105km). “Definitely do-able in a day! Leave 7.30am and you’ll be there by 5:30pm!” Despite Google telling us it was a 140km section, we set off hoping that
Joe’s local knowledge would prove correct. After some solid up-hill sections, we did
enjoy an amazing 30km of downhill, stretching out impossibly far in front of
us!! What he forgot to mention was the looong uphill that also stretched out
impossibly long before us just a few short hours later!!!<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqBIU31pTfIT6yHMHupy4vAY105mM9nX9m6z4ywPEs5n-rxU5-4JEXyl85b4Ss-bIgidb9WfD01oZ-X-82emzns2hCcJy5ChvejP9rO3fT5prG2FFx2hdV0mFoLJLAeK-v8O9f_506d_a/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqBIU31pTfIT6yHMHupy4vAY105mM9nX9m6z4ywPEs5n-rxU5-4JEXyl85b4Ss-bIgidb9WfD01oZ-X-82emzns2hCcJy5ChvejP9rO3fT5prG2FFx2hdV0mFoLJLAeK-v8O9f_506d_a/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+092.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crickey! Hope that sign is not accurate...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTbTYhHIlp1jMqwI0z19g2iPLowXuUsu2j0JjjUg8ol0r3y9K8XHG6ixWCqr1-2CklLxCm3WmF4UNBPEU0ju0slXMQHBTm2nHURQuP5uT2t43E-Be0ywqBmHTuBjZ9IiHNb3ddmPYe_n5/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTbTYhHIlp1jMqwI0z19g2iPLowXuUsu2j0JjjUg8ol0r3y9K8XHG6ixWCqr1-2CklLxCm3WmF4UNBPEU0ju0slXMQHBTm2nHURQuP5uT2t43E-Be0ywqBmHTuBjZ9IiHNb3ddmPYe_n5/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+120.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reasonably accurate!! On the road to Naypyitaw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv-moFE74cfF9LAXj3DLSeMxbzO0w-Uh5FQRtb1Bp6l2j-wPtEyy7JLmV7C9A6IJTmKjCj69MG4COIB7cGG_5KCzDKg8IlQD7VWWAxa9klrkRLiH4vuwvJQg0dNHEbFPoWt75oXWj0Svb/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv-moFE74cfF9LAXj3DLSeMxbzO0w-Uh5FQRtb1Bp6l2j-wPtEyy7JLmV7C9A6IJTmKjCj69MG4COIB7cGG_5KCzDKg8IlQD7VWWAxa9klrkRLiH4vuwvJQg0dNHEbFPoWt75oXWj0Svb/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limestone cliffs outside Pinlaung village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQounUHDs83U0k7FFRHGrgsXPJv6JpHjk9J4guWS288pZIl2aWmKrkCQD-py054hVeeq_n-J8LJOJTCZNDQlQaf6iKIht6CD-B_xlubU07dHBilhbzrISHdsP0bMbDlibMob9hV37rULF/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQounUHDs83U0k7FFRHGrgsXPJv6JpHjk9J4guWS288pZIl2aWmKrkCQD-py054hVeeq_n-J8LJOJTCZNDQlQaf6iKIht6CD-B_xlubU07dHBilhbzrISHdsP0bMbDlibMob9hV37rULF/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+066.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying some downhill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWEAHoZ8OAAxkUhdTqcMdHNeJxJQWl_Qf8FPbUSyJNJ-WKrTin23vvm5xAfF6qtgpp-IFx9_L9MdY5pMgCqbJN4u6-LQy-4yWBDXHPrMZgQ8MIeprNiceh2vE-a_NpniCxm9epkXeXuAp/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWEAHoZ8OAAxkUhdTqcMdHNeJxJQWl_Qf8FPbUSyJNJ-WKrTin23vvm5xAfF6qtgpp-IFx9_L9MdY5pMgCqbJN4u6-LQy-4yWBDXHPrMZgQ8MIeprNiceh2vE-a_NpniCxm9epkXeXuAp/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More downhill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cvTO9R4KZCnGC4A-VElS9ROEgewEiCK1IQb9ge_KRFYJ4OXwQJfCn0yiXv91HTDP1sKM5apnlwLCOjc39BqIAyJ7S8UsB9qyIrmGFXc11Wa5HBGKkNB9-Xcs16goXtOn-OlUvE5h-94L/s1600/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cvTO9R4KZCnGC4A-VElS9ROEgewEiCK1IQb9ge_KRFYJ4OXwQJfCn0yiXv91HTDP1sKM5apnlwLCOjc39BqIAyJ7S8UsB9qyIrmGFXc11Wa5HBGKkNB9-Xcs16goXtOn-OlUvE5h-94L/s640/2016-07-08+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+170.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quarry site - getting the rocks out old style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlxFAkb4wm7-UQcQ4xKo1rffGjFTqSu3VW6VBNdAIXmhuqwCUpnl6vrhh-KN9s4Rxhc39tLGlYiKfqxTCKSIXZDm5jybCU87-EJtcEwrbycihRbJIfcMjqy4yWliTlmGUIOGo42fu4ENX/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlxFAkb4wm7-UQcQ4xKo1rffGjFTqSu3VW6VBNdAIXmhuqwCUpnl6vrhh-KN9s4Rxhc39tLGlYiKfqxTCKSIXZDm5jybCU87-EJtcEwrbycihRbJIfcMjqy4yWliTlmGUIOGo42fu4ENX/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+045.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road to Naypyitaw (many tea plantations, some on impossibly steep slopes)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We kept cycling and at the 80km mark found ourselves at an
intersection – a short way to Naypyitaw through the hills and a “military zone” shown on Google Maps,
or the long road to a neighbouring village. The local villagers we asked assured us
that we definitely should take the longer route, so despite our misgivings, we continued on this road. More
climbing, more hills, to the point where we flagged down a passing truck – if
it was going to be a 140km day then we needed to hurry up! I was stoked for the
next 10km, as we chugged our way up steep hills, but then cried on the inside as
we chugged our way down yet another 15km stretch of impressive downhill! Ah
well, you win some, you lose some!!<br />
<br />
Our truckie friends assured us we could
sleep in the village where they left us (Thakon), however as it turned out, it was only
a guesthouse for locals. The is one of the challenges about cycling in Myanmar
– there is still a lack of accommodation in some places (unless you sleep at a
monastry or have a tent), so 6pm saw us back on our bikes, heading into the
sunset and ensuing darkness for the final 40km to the next town.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnvkpidgWTwdN2WrfBw3pkY7CSvpqmjKE22nXlj-slp1SmHl1EWud28uNxoKks6d8SVVU7fHkoX28m90JEZFtfKZtm4BbBlcgTEHB3yB4JIsr0yaRfUWD7ikkDuWttWD7CklhT2q4OnKW/s1600/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnvkpidgWTwdN2WrfBw3pkY7CSvpqmjKE22nXlj-slp1SmHl1EWud28uNxoKks6d8SVVU7fHkoX28m90JEZFtfKZtm4BbBlcgTEHB3yB4JIsr0yaRfUWD7ikkDuWttWD7CklhT2q4OnKW/s640/2016-07-09+Inle+to+Hpa+an+AJM+132.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night riding </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Often when travelling, the journey is as much a part of the
trip as the destination and the train journey between Naypyitaw and Bago the
following day was no exception! We clanged and clanked and rattled and rolled
our way through endless miles of rice fields, utterly surprised that we never
jumped off the tracks. Truly a great Burmese experience! We had met Captain
Lin, a local who had felt sorry for us at 9pm the previous evening as we
wearily cycled into town. He stopped his big 4WD and asked us to please join
him, a ride for the final few kms to the hotel complete with chilled water and
cake!<br />
<br />
I think the sight of two foreign cyclists on a lonely stretch of highway
was more interesting that what usually happens on a Tuesday night and he proved
to be so helpful! After dropping us at our hotel, and confirming the train
departure time, he told us he would be back in the morning to deliver us and
our bikes to the station, to take us for breakfast and a tour of the city!
Well, the train left at 8am, so no tour of the city but he was so desperate to
shout us breakfast (after buying our train tickets for us also!) that we were
still slurping down our “mohinga” (fish sauce noodle soup) as the train tooted,
and trundled out of the station with our bikes on board!! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Eeek!! SO.... we jumped in his truck, and raced along the empty
highway and through town to reach the next station – such a relief to arrive
there before the train and see it roll in on time!<br />
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHb8F8uO_b6umt3_kqTUBS-7CoA9Jj9BqSkY_h-Y4T6QO6VcGBmRcMmO8ZGl7OQzhRHsRIeYkd7Hdo13VouyszLY-WtbkHNAIuJ-_1Aa5NwmC1al36-RXe4ZWBWboP5VDSLkfYY6VSESqR/s1600/2016-07-10+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHb8F8uO_b6umt3_kqTUBS-7CoA9Jj9BqSkY_h-Y4T6QO6VcGBmRcMmO8ZGl7OQzhRHsRIeYkd7Hdo13VouyszLY-WtbkHNAIuJ-_1Aa5NwmC1al36-RXe4ZWBWboP5VDSLkfYY6VSESqR/s640/2016-07-10+Inle+to+Hpaan+MM+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clattering train to Bago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Our final few days saw us arrive and explore a small part of
Hpa-An, a village dwarfed by majestic limestone cliff-mountains (when you can
see them!), caves and a garden with about a thousand bhudda statues arranged in
rows. We were stoked to make it to the summit of Mt Zwegabin before the clouds
rolled in again and cycled away the following day towards the border with
Thailand.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0rHyUrUUcMGODoLpZp55Knz2fdyIiXIWGCYK6JPWHkv7k4w5qwKHCNEi_WeUjcH_gCQtTPnT-Mmp-_NYlZ_ZG10OMntfvNRsODjm2qmhNn7bc3z6mKureEIEZtKWFBmYsnvD7ZvTgy5J4/s1600/20160713_102427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0rHyUrUUcMGODoLpZp55Knz2fdyIiXIWGCYK6JPWHkv7k4w5qwKHCNEi_WeUjcH_gCQtTPnT-Mmp-_NYlZ_ZG10OMntfvNRsODjm2qmhNn7bc3z6mKureEIEZtKWFBmYsnvD7ZvTgy5J4/s640/20160713_102427.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the summit looking back towards Hpa-An village</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
We saw no other cycle tourists except for on this last leg –
a couple who raced past us going the other direction and two guys –
18,000km into a 50,000km trip! Three years in total! We checked out each others
bikes and swapped a few names and numbers of useful people before telling them
they should definitely come and stay when they reach NZ in 2017. We cycled off
in opposite directions to the cherry call of “See you in NZ!” We then heard stories about a girl from Hong Kong riding a bamboo-framed bicycle and the following day had the good fortune of meeting her in our hostel! Very cool!!!!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
It has been a real highlight being here, certainly a cool
chance to explore some of this country – it is huge though, with many different
minority groups all living together. There is certainly much much more to learn
and understand about life here. ...... <br />
<br />
We hope and pray that there can be some respect shown for the many minority groups still very much without freedom and equality in this country. That the opening up to foreign investment and development isn't at the expense of the people and the environment and largely for the army's benefit. That they realise that how we do things in the west often isn't what they should aspire to and we have a lot we could learn from them. That the many displaced people from this country are not forgotten and pushed back inside before they are really safe in their home towns. As someone living in Thailand put it "The light at the end of the tunnel is a lot closer than it was, but they're still not out of the tunnel."</div>
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<br />
Arohanui!<br />
<br />
Miri (& Andy)<br />
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<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-23436990270542914012016-06-24T06:14:00.002-07:002016-06-24T23:03:01.327-07:00Turkish Mini Tour - End of our European Cycling Journey :-(<h2>
<b>Summary</b></h2>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Caught a ferry from Chios (Greece) to Cesme (Turkey) , followed by a bus into Izmir</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Three days in Izmir with a day trip to Ephesus</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Caught bus to Akhisar to connect with Ege - a great new friend</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cycled from Akhisar through Bergama, Kozac, Bagyugu, Burhaniye, Aksay, Assos, Ayvacik to Canakkale (See "We Love Maps" for route diagram & places we stayed...)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">ANZAC Gallipoli tour</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bus to Istanbul and a few days exploring this great city!</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">NEXT - Phase 2 - Operation Cycle Tour SE Asia. We'll shortly be plucked out of Istanbul & dropped into South East Asia for 3 months, starting in Myanmar, then through Northern Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia</span></li>
</ul>
<h2>
Leaving Chios</h2>
<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfN73jJSZ-xG2M8VvUTLhrKbRViqgdLIzuYhRffozEes8ZV_X2Zxt181co2Kk-Dx6VaFgdA3t7rAMu32Vrl4kg7VB5QcBGCIAyQHZZa5rxtKtpnp4YNzr1pVB0nAffTc_hYWVMzmP3hVX/s1600/Snapshot+1+%252823-06-2016+8-12+PM%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfN73jJSZ-xG2M8VvUTLhrKbRViqgdLIzuYhRffozEes8ZV_X2Zxt181co2Kk-Dx6VaFgdA3t7rAMu32Vrl4kg7VB5QcBGCIAyQHZZa5rxtKtpnp4YNzr1pVB0nAffTc_hYWVMzmP3hVX/s640/Snapshot+1+%252823-06-2016+8-12+PM%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pondering life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
It was a strange feeling indeed to be boarding a ferry in Chios harbour, looking across to the camps and thinking of the thousands of people stuck there, unable to move on or return! The crossing was dead calm, perfect 'refugee (crossing) weather' and the small dinghies they use were forefront in my mind as we crossed the 10km stretch of water. <br />
<br />
Our experiences in Chios have remained pretty vivid in our minds and, as time slowly passes, we think about our friends we left there. We've also come across more people with different perspectives on the situation, which has caused us to challenge some of our newly formed opinions!! Things are much the same on Chios though - there's been a wedding in the camp (fun!), a new swing set erected at Souda and more people arriving.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY72EqRMfkWKRwRB-MAJki0_XYg4UJLaZ9fW1JibTu8CTWh4qD2jx0tqJV53-SXMhUlFV5__w4m85lKsr46yF2XwHOL0KBsx9RiQ4typVOiDgFDWlMNV7_zQNIlj4qWtk0hAVVaB-XpD_9/s1600/13415396_10209462927351781_7735143930475833601_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY72EqRMfkWKRwRB-MAJki0_XYg4UJLaZ9fW1JibTu8CTWh4qD2jx0tqJV53-SXMhUlFV5__w4m85lKsr46yF2XwHOL0KBsx9RiQ4typVOiDgFDWlMNV7_zQNIlj4qWtk0hAVVaB-XpD_9/s640/13415396_10209462927351781_7735143930475833601_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two of the young boys we remember from Deputhe (Photo credit: Tim S)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
<b><br />Turkey</b></h2>
We've arrived! In the original plan, we were going to be spending quite some time here, however plans change frequently when cycle touring, so we ended up having only two weeks - waaaay too short a time! What resulted has been a mini-tour, with maximum generosity from the Turkish people - something that other travelers have also experienced. We are thankful to have had the opportunity to end our European leg here before travelling onto Asia.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<b>The city of Izmir</b></h3>
After settling into Karen's house (friend of a friend), we ventured out to discover the goodness of Turkey and to get our heads around a new language, currency and culture! Imagine a busy city street - men in cafe's drinking tea, women with prams, bread stalls, corn sellers, fruit shops, tooting taxi's and motorbikes - a vibrant mix of people, food and business happening all around us. Izmir is a city of 4 million, set around a big bay with a cool waterfront area - it felt like a pretty cool city, very much with a somewhat western feel.<br />
<br />
We wandered into a cell phone shop to investigate whether a Turkish SIM card might come in handy (decided not) and after attempting conversation with gestures, diagrams, pointing and english - a young man was bought in from next door. We didn't get his name, so we'll call him Arzu. His english was super useful and he then invited us next door to his family restaurant where we sat and drank tea and then had ćorba (chourba) and pide (soup and boat-shaped pizza bread). Arzu was great to talk with, to learn some more Turkish and just hang out. At the end of the meal, he charged us only half of what we should have paid, refused any extra and sent us on our way, feeling very welcomed, stoked and keen to return tomorrow!<br />
<br />
The following day we met up with Ayhan and Neshe & their daughter Kaya - an amazing family who Andy has had a small connection with for about 10 years since he was in Turkey last. It was such a privilege to stay with them for a few days, enjoy home-cooked Turkish food and to feel like we had been welcomed into a home away from home. It was fascinating to hear their stories about life in Turkey, as well as their perspectives on global politics - often different to our own but really fascinating to be able to chat through some big issues (refugees, Christian faith, Islam, Trump etc) and learn from their experiences and lives. They were an inspirational couple for us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjApn6LIB3nJbau9nI-lJtUkBtoZOkNK7mR3EK1n0NQiHiHWewGRQJfPLreBbpvQ0Ovx35PKVXNEQrUV6fTSjXvpgK9oGPfr_vxkmOgD1FC6MBcwaQfq-zBSbp7-5xRAPZv-EUSvWqPEvGj/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-14+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjApn6LIB3nJbau9nI-lJtUkBtoZOkNK7mR3EK1n0NQiHiHWewGRQJfPLreBbpvQ0Ovx35PKVXNEQrUV6fTSjXvpgK9oGPfr_vxkmOgD1FC6MBcwaQfq-zBSbp7-5xRAPZv-EUSvWqPEvGj/s400/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-14+003.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So great to finally meet this awesome couple and a lovely place to learn about life in Turkey!</td></tr>
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<h3>
Ephesus</h3>
Almost every Turkish person we met told us "ohhh you must go to Ephesus", so that was up next - it was actually really cool to wander through the ruins and imagine life back in the day. The library of Celcus and the amphitheater are probably the most well-known bits and they certainly were very impressive. Andy got sidetracked checking out some surveyors who were involved in an archaeological project and I sat in the smaller amphitheater and read a few chapters from the Bible which took place among-st the ruins some 2000 years ago - very cool!.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main amphitheater of Ephesus</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fwRKDZgdqSEgx3xYBhtow_hYR-EVJrX7VQUbnUkT_WCKrXuNg8t8V50Kf8pc07M_RYn-fEo14g32fXGvBlqvcyy_wGrUYbhhTu5Hm5Eisa_pS1-S_flOUdeUCY_v43OrF5s2cchiRPNp/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-13+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fwRKDZgdqSEgx3xYBhtow_hYR-EVJrX7VQUbnUkT_WCKrXuNg8t8V50Kf8pc07M_RYn-fEo14g32fXGvBlqvcyy_wGrUYbhhTu5Hm5Eisa_pS1-S_flOUdeUCY_v43OrF5s2cchiRPNp/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-13+077.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Library of Celcus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7x7-1I_SoAcPqJ3Lct6cLtGI0ac9kfGyTwJt3NtnUEkw1Nv8kR2ilDO2XV2QW2DoZZmpoVTF6LKBWA-Z5FSewKoCqfopRj3c5NwVuzfqFYpiLnH671D289YaEdJqrCBIoGJA3_5p8e1ak/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-13+071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7x7-1I_SoAcPqJ3Lct6cLtGI0ac9kfGyTwJt3NtnUEkw1Nv8kR2ilDO2XV2QW2DoZZmpoVTF6LKBWA-Z5FSewKoCqfopRj3c5NwVuzfqFYpiLnH671D289YaEdJqrCBIoGJA3_5p8e1ak/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-13+071.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
<b>Generosity Overload!!</b></h4>
The Turkish hospitality and generosity was continued and taken to a whole new level when we met Anna and Ols' friend Ege. We'd been anticipating meeting him for weeks, having been put in contact by them after Ege hosted them during their own cycle adventure a few years ago. He certainly lived up to his reputation as a FAST cyclist, great friend and generous host!!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinICjX4ykaf8nlbfXInmjazq-fv71U98yQRw7jzCej6sujtG2Bdf0RjdOvwggGzh-oVw0FK5ZNuoVNC09f3EJl0HHEv-CQ0Am1N71CWynR7LEV5u2-wCxpuCldMBd4RSBkjAZrUwTvSAUV/s1600/20160614_163755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinICjX4ykaf8nlbfXInmjazq-fv71U98yQRw7jzCej6sujtG2Bdf0RjdOvwggGzh-oVw0FK5ZNuoVNC09f3EJl0HHEv-CQ0Am1N71CWynR7LEV5u2-wCxpuCldMBd4RSBkjAZrUwTvSAUV/s640/20160614_163755.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First stop - icecream with Ege!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We had a lovely evening comparing notes over bicycles, routes, life in NZ and Turkey, a skype call to Anna and Ols and getting ready to bike on. The following morning I was feeling quite apprehensive about getting back on the bike after a month off - particularly about the heat but Ege accompanied us on our way out of town, which was a great start! We were pretty torn between staying and hanging out more and being back on the journey.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_fjlXCfwDuXT_D6tQUv7VyEnjS8iBxnzWtDsEnYi8IrzZ6xV8xz897Woma4kQc6KzOygtYns8-YRMPxVnKomzXq4o90MUVyBf1G4Cqe5lwux64Fs5TaLpa47AMYONEH-AxHttQUVIdRE/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-15+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_fjlXCfwDuXT_D6tQUv7VyEnjS8iBxnzWtDsEnYi8IrzZ6xV8xz897Woma4kQc6KzOygtYns8-YRMPxVnKomzXq4o90MUVyBf1G4Cqe5lwux64Fs5TaLpa47AMYONEH-AxHttQUVIdRE/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-15+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bike Gang!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Ugh! The bakehouse!!</b></h4>
After a relaxing morning biking on a small coastal road we suddenly found ourselves slogging our way up a huge hill in the midday heat. Think 38 degrees, on a hot tar-seal road, with no shade in sight, your water quickly disappearing and the road winding on over the hills! Flip! Talk about sweat-central!<br />
<br />
This seemed to be the Turkish norm for us and we ended up biking form 6am to 12-3pm and then hiding out in a cafe or supermarket for a few hours before venturing out again to find a campsite! We've loved the quiet country back roads, learnt to avoid the "drainage holes of death" (set a good 20cm below the tarseal surface, with the slots going the same way as your wheel!!??) and secretly enjoyed the early mornings on empty motorways, which stretched a long way downhill in front of us (leaving Ayvacik).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkAXGpvToResnB7mPhbCKXt1uxcYwL3y_OsiQIlvlLgltPrGEiwGg7gXL_pe6hQry9M-repspveeWqyAwyOfG0vN1pFGrbf2EPnYf7wADI9-v9Kb-vEFaFBd9gJMRXXr2FI6ab5eG6qex/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkAXGpvToResnB7mPhbCKXt1uxcYwL3y_OsiQIlvlLgltPrGEiwGg7gXL_pe6hQry9M-repspveeWqyAwyOfG0vN1pFGrbf2EPnYf7wADI9-v9Kb-vEFaFBd9gJMRXXr2FI6ab5eG6qex/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sussing out the route, Kozac</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over Akhisar, Turkey</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOIqV-wD6ZrkQqZxxIUv01qLFvWlM1-AbcdKJ2DLizXnl0IKYA3pgkXKh8ANFkKyp6Ia7vle1Vc0h7eLYWUArqlyRyWS_gnnMxgLe12L1rVBmoVxAV6IELcUHpHN2VMuXdxK-9Uu5TyRQ/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-15+039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOIqV-wD6ZrkQqZxxIUv01qLFvWlM1-AbcdKJ2DLizXnl0IKYA3pgkXKh8ANFkKyp6Ia7vle1Vc0h7eLYWUArqlyRyWS_gnnMxgLe12L1rVBmoVxAV6IELcUHpHN2VMuXdxK-9Uu5TyRQ/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-15+039.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watermelon season! - Bergama</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkOMkIjA20XZgumSO4ABgQsVaHdPmPuAescMwe0WHLjmGCyooTy4ctnSBJoaWYeUYpkj-VRHUuHG1eGOOpyF7NALLc7viE3qu7lHbVSv7x2cED_axIrOvgnGoc2UB8nD4WJ7lvvbhtvDR/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkOMkIjA20XZgumSO4ABgQsVaHdPmPuAescMwe0WHLjmGCyooTy4ctnSBJoaWYeUYpkj-VRHUuHG1eGOOpyF7NALLc7viE3qu7lHbVSv7x2cED_axIrOvgnGoc2UB8nD4WJ7lvvbhtvDR/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+019.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving into Bagyuzu, Rural Turkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6drVUdvqvpPj58uT6sQFgGl_A_JysoDrLxhialaZtYDdbskXKOOTxarDxGN9lZvu1_UegryNnKttOqLPTnRtH0CHZCTZUSTjvkommvcQ1gxPWr-pfzcp4cdvzHbJdkCJSnEDe7U0XLqe9/s1600/20160616_103312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6drVUdvqvpPj58uT6sQFgGl_A_JysoDrLxhialaZtYDdbskXKOOTxarDxGN9lZvu1_UegryNnKttOqLPTnRtH0CHZCTZUSTjvkommvcQ1gxPWr-pfzcp4cdvzHbJdkCJSnEDe7U0XLqe9/s640/20160616_103312.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out his air horn!! This kid accompanied us out of his village with copious amounts of air horn tooting, which was pretty awesome. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDkCAwc-sEN5X3TMwTz9ZbMJoqVe-ln_DliNbHkGVKCytzHNxVYfDg9IfSjofWN8lXuUKYg16gI9xtZKjA6NZpjR-rEx5N4ebJetAgFsTKzQYixwfwdhuXdTWmz9Jhr3mWiW7mA1IyhS5/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDkCAwc-sEN5X3TMwTz9ZbMJoqVe-ln_DliNbHkGVKCytzHNxVYfDg9IfSjofWN8lXuUKYg16gI9xtZKjA6NZpjR-rEx5N4ebJetAgFsTKzQYixwfwdhuXdTWmz9Jhr3mWiW7mA1IyhS5/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+033.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch stop at one of the many roadside water fountains en route through the hills!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOpMuzs2DcR3yMbOx-NZSCzcdX3HA8UVZzIadNZxfhsE17MA2jtuF33pffPl7eu9LYzg2CD2bggemiNRrSjCU6Pb9PchyphenhyphenMvB3sU2PxqSAXT-YKmhwiPi0924uuueX_3H4aCjGnhbArcPk/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOpMuzs2DcR3yMbOx-NZSCzcdX3HA8UVZzIadNZxfhsE17MA2jtuF33pffPl7eu9LYzg2CD2bggemiNRrSjCU6Pb9PchyphenhyphenMvB3sU2PxqSAXT-YKmhwiPi0924uuueX_3H4aCjGnhbArcPk/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-16+037.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spotting the sea for the first time again, Yabanćular</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCshwbg-kYQ98SdKqIVSCItOwgYmILLJcwuMQeIpa7kYYFB_mzBiD7kSgLXwmLSpL5It2ftfIrA0x2n_A8TrZ_zDv2o4NeWRuLMxYdyaWle7FdauWbGsXxDJE79GKr16rkvMUa4wLmmvoE/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-17+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCshwbg-kYQ98SdKqIVSCItOwgYmILLJcwuMQeIpa7kYYFB_mzBiD7kSgLXwmLSpL5It2ftfIrA0x2n_A8TrZ_zDv2o4NeWRuLMxYdyaWle7FdauWbGsXxDJE79GKr16rkvMUa4wLmmvoE/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-17+003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bakehouse Road! En route to Ayvacik</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUGJEwL17InOiAJFpyx7LTD8q9eXhaw88hpDLu7Yqt3PmOpGfetRusnJs7dFGqnTgyPEO0Ttbi3Nfv2cCJsH4fQEe5zgroSw9TM972N6CYEdIVsexSqQ56Jmt4Su34x-rIIxL2v_4bdmJ/s1600/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-18+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUGJEwL17InOiAJFpyx7LTD8q9eXhaw88hpDLu7Yqt3PmOpGfetRusnJs7dFGqnTgyPEO0Ttbi3Nfv2cCJsH4fQEe5zgroSw9TM972N6CYEdIVsexSqQ56Jmt4Su34x-rIIxL2v_4bdmJ/s640/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-18+032.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats in the harbour - Kepez, Canakkale</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<b>Things random people gave us over 2 days cycling...Legends!</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>2 bottles of chilled water (separate occasions)</li>
<li>Bag of sultanas (from a guy out of his car door, as we were biking past)</li>
<li>Dinner and a bed for the night - thanks Hasan!</li>
<li>A demonstration on how to pick good berries from the tree in the park</li>
<li>Cucumbers and apples</li>
<li>Directions to the best bakery in town and strict observance to ensure we got there!</li>
</ul>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXbRPH4MV9QZr9dw6Nx4l-8lwUaJtHI-93of7pKHxowoyktbUB8PywD429gLaO3QyqGGIsEzaXh6MITrA86hW1BooiKpaiVJqxyVn6wATfWiDuFxLtiuHdjbI3dZa_2VuwcTV95woyMeV/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-17+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXbRPH4MV9QZr9dw6Nx4l-8lwUaJtHI-93of7pKHxowoyktbUB8PywD429gLaO3QyqGGIsEzaXh6MITrA86hW1BooiKpaiVJqxyVn6wATfWiDuFxLtiuHdjbI3dZa_2VuwcTV95woyMeV/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-17+031.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm actually so happy in this photo, the smile just hadn't made it to my face yet!! Appreciating ice cold water from a passing motorist!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg233Ql7iNJ2rHUTF6IBLoECNOd6chXoMLP5ljOQUjs4JvBub6Y1k238dlnTboQe8B1-VTwOBb3zmEriltW_VzVbCo7FOnhcY59hDL66VzYIlER3im6WTlQyanfu24Z6DNQz1kGm4axCipW/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-17+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg233Ql7iNJ2rHUTF6IBLoECNOd6chXoMLP5ljOQUjs4JvBub6Y1k238dlnTboQe8B1-VTwOBb3zmEriltW_VzVbCo7FOnhcY59hDL66VzYIlER3im6WTlQyanfu24Z6DNQz1kGm4axCipW/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoCanakkele_AJM_+2016-06-17+032.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This guy had no idea how much I LOVE sultanas!! Thankyou friendly man in Ayvacik!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
Gallipoli - The Legacy of Terrible Leadership (And a Special Place to Visit & Imagine)</h3>
<b>(NB: Some wordy reflections follow - Continue at your own risk or just look at the photos)</b></div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rY5hAB55KSPU0AGVxGSbKFe21OCiTiYeBxf6_gEoiIWbymJ_aHSh3DuQi4vqeEv_jNrd7B6Ci5z6No_lys1KjNQoyxd_WlIfISaPzPNCAPllenlIFGr24uQZwwqefGdS678DQJow6aZq/s1600/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-19+064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rY5hAB55KSPU0AGVxGSbKFe21OCiTiYeBxf6_gEoiIWbymJ_aHSh3DuQi4vqeEv_jNrd7B6Ci5z6No_lys1KjNQoyxd_WlIfISaPzPNCAPllenlIFGr24uQZwwqefGdS678DQJow6aZq/s640/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-19+064.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards ANZAC cove, The Sphinx and the hills above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Andy: I left the Gallipoli Peninsula feeling angry. Gallipoli. It is a popular pilgrimage location for Australians, New Zealanders and for many Turks. It is sometimes conjectured as being a key part of the birthing of NZ as a nation separate from the British motherland. Here, many people have died. Many needlessly. From the stories we heard, there has been both incredible leadership shown and terrible leadership shown.<br />
<br />
It's hearing the stories of terrible leadership that has left me angry. Especially because it hasn't just affected financial success or organisations, it's directly affected the lives of thousands of soldiers and those of their families. Often needlessly. Futility made all the more futile. Seeing the individual graves there and imagining their stories has helped to bring this home for me. Ataturk (the founder of modern Turkey) seemingly lead from the front and rose up the ranks for his quick-thinking leadership abilities, whereas, the allied Generals seem to have found themselves decried to infamy because of some terrible leadership.<br />
<br />
Some such examples are from the August 1915 offensive, designed to break a stalemate that had gone on for months. It was in this offensive that the NZ's were meant to capture the key objective "Chunuk Bair", which they did for a brief time while other diversionary attacks and a British landing took place.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmGsYGUciJvnSLNdNjSR5Xt27mtS5p31O0E5yKfNnB-G6vX_F-xdWrqxRWAFBnnQWEce_V0GzX2nBMepziylU-MurrTEcYTfrzVQ5BJM-r1T7YxXUAQjwqhwCcboRn6Qy6IbkYW5I2tuI/s1600/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-19+081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmGsYGUciJvnSLNdNjSR5Xt27mtS5p31O0E5yKfNnB-G6vX_F-xdWrqxRWAFBnnQWEce_V0GzX2nBMepziylU-MurrTEcYTfrzVQ5BJM-r1T7YxXUAQjwqhwCcboRn6Qy6IbkYW5I2tuI/s640/Turkey_IsmirtoIstanbul_AJM_+2016-06-19+081.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the ANZAC old trench remains near Lone Pine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0hG-FuvD1ZH4-0kyREPr_lZnmlAc5cm04-n_pDwS6A4L4YVFRfy58HBxroxsCkjAdcFBZmBq01XuoFfOP3fhfoO6w2qW7gZIMd4nhByj0Pe_KIzRm0MwgnNt5tV4wMoG80TLcmZPSkVz/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+041+%25282%2529+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0hG-FuvD1ZH4-0kyREPr_lZnmlAc5cm04-n_pDwS6A4L4YVFRfy58HBxroxsCkjAdcFBZmBq01XuoFfOP3fhfoO6w2qW7gZIMd4nhByj0Pe_KIzRm0MwgnNt5tV4wMoG80TLcmZPSkVz/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+041+%25282%2529+-+Copy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The plateau, and hills above ANZAC cove, with Suvla Bay in the background from near the Neck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It was 3pm on our tour and we emerged from our air conditioned bus in the blazing June heat into a piece of land in the hills called "The Nek". A story was told of utter madness, one that many of the readers will have heard before. We're standing looking at the grassy grave-site and surrounding pines, trying to imagine this piece of land bare of vegetation in the midst of war. The front line being where the road was now. Trenches between the Turks and ANZACS being only 8m apart in places.<br />
<br />
The Australian Light Horse Brigade was to attack at a certain time after a Naval Bombardment had finished. They were put in the difficult situation, when the bombardment finished inexplicably early and they waited another 10 minutes till the correct time. By then the Turkish machine gunners were back up and waiting. The first of four waves was sent out with 150 men. Completely mown down. The second wave readied to go, because, they were the second wave, they had to. Again, completely mown down. The officer in charge of the 3rd wave, questioned the decision, as being "bloody murder". He was unsuccessful in having it stopped. The further 4th wave largely followed the same fate. The 370 men that died that day lay there till the campaign ended. We were now looking at some of their memorial plaques.<br />
<br />
Furthermore, the landing of 10,000 British at Suvla Bay further up the coast, intending to support this offensive ended up in a dis-organised mess, with Generals being too far removed from the situation and good leadership no-where to be seen. While, these stories are an overly simple take on this situation (war, I've got no doubt, is way more messy and complicated than is described here). I find it hard to believe the disconnect of the leaders from their troops on the Allies side, and the needless casualties this lead to.<br />
<br />
Being on this peninsula has actually seemed more special than I thought it would. While neither of us have any direct relatives that have fought here, we are glad we've had this opportunity to be on the ground. To imagine some of the stories we've heard of in school and around Anzac Day, to reflect on the futility of war, to see the memorial plaques, to hear some stories from the Turkish side too, to feel proud being a New Zealander.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLztZyjiKF3NXBJs6aHEE_bY03qf-0znwNCEFan8OhHtndM-pPQUFMsqlWfByCl3QX3jcLSbrI9G1WRn9a9G2bpOGOyo_R3kJbpuX38swdIkglilKrVfpBO3yKad3YWkvUechLzOJDdth/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLztZyjiKF3NXBJs6aHEE_bY03qf-0znwNCEFan8OhHtndM-pPQUFMsqlWfByCl3QX3jcLSbrI9G1WRn9a9G2bpOGOyo_R3kJbpuX38swdIkglilKrVfpBO3yKad3YWkvUechLzOJDdth/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+056.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dardonelles in the background from Chunuk Bair. They key strip of water the Allies wanted to assist them in sailing up to Istanbul & into the Black Sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPbL-m0UZG8UPoHm2ZGZRo5ubysEDfp-uw8RblmCWXGT0VADd-AYV05-DPOOmSSYid-su_gINIydaAGJbmyow2MEGcepuCNTG3SDOcU-MfVsl2qd7EYb5z97DvV7FNMvv1YOanG_j-LZu/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPbL-m0UZG8UPoHm2ZGZRo5ubysEDfp-uw8RblmCWXGT0VADd-AYV05-DPOOmSSYid-su_gINIydaAGJbmyow2MEGcepuCNTG3SDOcU-MfVsl2qd7EYb5z97DvV7FNMvv1YOanG_j-LZu/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anzac Cove back in the day and today - Our guide Bulle on the ANZAC tour</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPYTO7IQMjOjCvibkMJIZ4dT8jPAKJHBzDua2KfYEhJ15s6F2uDlxV155NnlBZ82HpHeGAwbG8H-Jam0WhisfZicNjDIyeeVTNKSw1uUkhix5ytKubXrk2RAG7Tcvs3iTdhGeqpxfc2Fi/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPYTO7IQMjOjCvibkMJIZ4dT8jPAKJHBzDua2KfYEhJ15s6F2uDlxV155NnlBZ82HpHeGAwbG8H-Jam0WhisfZicNjDIyeeVTNKSw1uUkhix5ytKubXrk2RAG7Tcvs3iTdhGeqpxfc2Fi/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many cemeteries around the Gallipoli peninsula</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHGWgRfnawbJrrY2jDqUWFfSvRGNRyQ-OZAp-F6cxSW0DCCBtu_25gv0WqSZHaQwZvpuE3aAvO5eJoMxkUcoWTTL7Ty8zudh3pBjgHXmQP0VAYQLzx33ukYRMUIt5hXa2bMmqz8hmV4jU/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-20+033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHGWgRfnawbJrrY2jDqUWFfSvRGNRyQ-OZAp-F6cxSW0DCCBtu_25gv0WqSZHaQwZvpuE3aAvO5eJoMxkUcoWTTL7Ty8zudh3pBjgHXmQP0VAYQLzx33ukYRMUIt5hXa2bMmqz8hmV4jU/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-20+033.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ataturk - this guy's photo, statue and face are everywhere! The founder of Modern Turkey, plus<br />
the army (eventually) general who led the Turks to victory over the Allied Soldiers in Gallipoli.<br />
His famous speech where he said that ANZAC men who had fallen in Turkey were now sons of Turkey<br />
was an attitude that we found reflected in ordinary Turks, which was pretty cool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxybouqiL03bDXBRgljF00qWmRBnf6Z2rCJf6i0t_cDNfrSl6vFCH18GWGNXMz9on_xLrNb_X-DD0_lYopYnZn-inxEVd8mY6BGiytBixBPEmh8_FlIqLxxdZO6Zp13Vrw7lks3k71I0WX/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-20+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxybouqiL03bDXBRgljF00qWmRBnf6Z2rCJf6i0t_cDNfrSl6vFCH18GWGNXMz9on_xLrNb_X-DD0_lYopYnZn-inxEVd8mY6BGiytBixBPEmh8_FlIqLxxdZO6Zp13Vrw7lks3k71I0WX/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-20+024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A display on the waterfront in Eceabat of what the front lines looked like and how far apart they were in a lot of places.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpnFfHvukWM1d_jqZFAzhEI5HNKCVmj8_zcHExAWFxS0kIPiS9WN3YuGlb7Xha2THnXdV8OMgvdUR5A4ynBMFi761JfpLzMkK2cnjPOq-GbIzbK5nmISK2IasNO_mGbhyphenhyphenEZzg-EfbiZbI/s1600/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpnFfHvukWM1d_jqZFAzhEI5HNKCVmj8_zcHExAWFxS0kIPiS9WN3YuGlb7Xha2THnXdV8OMgvdUR5A4ynBMFi761JfpLzMkK2cnjPOq-GbIzbK5nmISK2IasNO_mGbhyphenhyphenEZzg-EfbiZbI/s640/Turkey_IzmirtoGalliboli_MM_+2016-06-19+038.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I liked this kid's thoughtful correction to his memorial cross. Lone Pine Memorial</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
<b>Istanbul - Excerpt from Miri's Journal</b></h3>
"The call to prayer echoes and wails out around me, seemingly from every direction, various mosques competing with each other. On one side of me, men are washing their hands and feet in preparation to enter the mosque. Behind me is the spiders-web complex of the grand bazaar with sweet turkish delight, dried fruits, tea, gold and silver. Just beyond that, colourful piles of spices line the walkway. In another direction families are relaxing under the shade of trees, men asleep, corn sellers and bread stalls. Music is playing from somewhere.<br />
<br />
The call to prayer ends and within seconds, it feels more like a city i might know, with taxi's tooting and trams and boats coming into the dock. It must be a tough place to do business these days - places you expect to be packed with tourists are empty - metro stations, bazaars. Optimistic salesmen call out "Sir, Sir, spend money for your honey.." "Yes, madam, hello. Tea? Spices?"<br />
<br />
There's a mixture of people - some western tourists, fully covered women, police with dogs and guns, tour guides ("2 hour tours!!") and carpet sellers ("Sir, have I got a chance??")" It has been so nice to wander around the streets, take in the atmosphere and get some jobs done in preparation for the next leg. "<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-G0p8WTFXAGeVoUG2GtDQ9cTcTU5I9Zq2c8TUPszec0IhVEU5yrbxu-vvUN2Nz3ArfQ6E2KJuD6pSH9mauY6mvsyhqhVKgoN1HPE6E7E9-zu7VTJBzzWKSht7v20PCTFcVL9bDfnUrUjc/s1600/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-G0p8WTFXAGeVoUG2GtDQ9cTcTU5I9Zq2c8TUPszec0IhVEU5yrbxu-vvUN2Nz3ArfQ6E2KJuD6pSH9mauY6mvsyhqhVKgoN1HPE6E7E9-zu7VTJBzzWKSht7v20PCTFcVL9bDfnUrUjc/s640/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+044.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spices!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcppQwxxPBO3hnWjHWeClZMSiE-PyIb82aOFhTu_Lb5QthiSISCJWc6r95EYfR5bIE73IZEIbG5LW6N6jJBU7YR3ALEMXWpCu2nq0wtHZQTO4ECnC3IDf554J6RBx4g8UM67PyAxUktXbC/s1600/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcppQwxxPBO3hnWjHWeClZMSiE-PyIb82aOFhTu_Lb5QthiSISCJWc6r95EYfR5bIE73IZEIbG5LW6N6jJBU7YR3ALEMXWpCu2nq0wtHZQTO4ECnC3IDf554J6RBx4g8UM67PyAxUktXbC/s640/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+045.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ridiculously expensive dried Fruit!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jcBLCUILS2BPA9yYe_2721te7sKnXRONQKt2mtPnRG-ysLIctsGnJyAQaBREfpsuUs8i5jIgOtYUVrxtoVUmHs4iTWR1NiYFcQZLMZxn8sPGxAu97lgbvMsJSRzfiVf26Ack62ff7wD7/s1600/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jcBLCUILS2BPA9yYe_2721te7sKnXRONQKt2mtPnRG-ysLIctsGnJyAQaBREfpsuUs8i5jIgOtYUVrxtoVUmHs4iTWR1NiYFcQZLMZxn8sPGxAu97lgbvMsJSRzfiVf26Ack62ff7wD7/s640/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-22+041.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spice Market, Istanbul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6hRG0RvskASFr-9CqQq1beFNU2FFE5hgBVszkWfKJbcKuwy_NO9G21wibROFBB3t_rSjqI37OY5j-lbLO9ilH__9VmRqpml8TsJv32bFuyVirKQzvKASssy0r101yAvhioQegE0chWgh/s1600/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-21+027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6hRG0RvskASFr-9CqQq1beFNU2FFE5hgBVszkWfKJbcKuwy_NO9G21wibROFBB3t_rSjqI37OY5j-lbLO9ilH__9VmRqpml8TsJv32bFuyVirKQzvKASssy0r101yAvhioQegE0chWgh/s640/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-21+027.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), Istanbul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHB63Sy2yYTbVny2H3yalu5dQGCP0dKt2UxLBVV3lrlZ4MH00sNcsYCMJEjPrYkjV07mQMlwSyzoSG37-ZcDGzww3uYX3OmRE66Ffifpn3uKGiCb8_3VIzNrTtAtrVCEoXcvklODqszUaZ/s1600/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-21+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHB63Sy2yYTbVny2H3yalu5dQGCP0dKt2UxLBVV3lrlZ4MH00sNcsYCMJEjPrYkjV07mQMlwSyzoSG37-ZcDGzww3uYX3OmRE66Ffifpn3uKGiCb8_3VIzNrTtAtrVCEoXcvklODqszUaZ/s640/Istanbul+AJM+2016-06-21+012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hagia Sophia, Istanbul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
<b>Goodbye To The Tent (Home)...</b></h3>
It's a bit sad but we've sent the tent and cooker home as from now on we'll be hitting up the guesthouses of South East Asia and the fine street-side restaurants! Despite the average start with the sand-storm in Morocco, the MSR Hubba Hubba NX has been a great wee home for the last three months. There's a real sense of familiarity when we crawl inside and get cosy together in our sleeping bags.<br />
<br />
Here is a quick video that attempts to show some of daily routine and places we've called home for the night (sorry, some footage is a bit ave due to our average computer processing & upload speeds, but you'll get the general idea)...<br />
<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>The road from here....</b><br />
On Saturday evening (25th June) we'll be winging our way to Dubai, Bangkok and into Yangon, Myanmar. We'll spend about 2 weeks there before cycling across the north of Thailand and catching a slow boat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang in Laos. We are anticipating a bit of culture shock, being plucked from Europe and deposited in the midst of SE Asia, but we'll take it in slowly and hopefully the biking, and the good food and great people will tie all our experiences together nicely!<br />
<br />
Arohanui,<br />
Miri and Andy<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3DQUhZD9g4ZsdosTTEFWAyKEOOxHY3gj7Xr6rvM58fuc8SLzsXI-AxMOxarmbVOYWsFkC5OPJYmXzHKwTTs6bzFTRe7ckmdUP8hqrlxAvhuZ_ltSnrxlL6CcQH6_MotpnJAq-VA28z6r_/s1600/SE+Asia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3DQUhZD9g4ZsdosTTEFWAyKEOOxHY3gj7Xr6rvM58fuc8SLzsXI-AxMOxarmbVOYWsFkC5OPJYmXzHKwTTs6bzFTRe7ckmdUP8hqrlxAvhuZ_ltSnrxlL6CcQH6_MotpnJAq-VA28z6r_/s640/SE+Asia.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-89179962087665285442016-06-10T02:27:00.000-07:002016-06-10T02:27:02.047-07:00A Continuing Cry for Freedom & Peace - Two weeks in Chios (Greece) with those seeking refuge<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymeKgv69GyMqju0aFyW37QeONXnBX81KFox8tcFBs6R-oEt6YeiWjDysiO7VULaBRKSQpHcI78cvH-MFBRKN4NAugdEYS537v9oNhyphenhyphenW9diMPAkXSzp0Yg6UiH-VDwKfr0VBMjaV6ym8Kc/s1600/Chios+Map.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymeKgv69GyMqju0aFyW37QeONXnBX81KFox8tcFBs6R-oEt6YeiWjDysiO7VULaBRKSQpHcI78cvH-MFBRKN4NAugdEYS537v9oNhyphenhyphenW9diMPAkXSzp0Yg6UiH-VDwKfr0VBMjaV6ym8Kc/s400/Chios+Map.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Chios Island - 10km off the coast of Turkey and one of the closest parts of Europe </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">for those travelling from Syria and other countries.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Chios, a small island 10km off the coast of Turkey has been our home for the last two weeks. We have spent our time here volunteering with "Drapen i Havet" ("Drop in the Ocean"), a Norwegian based NGO focused on simply being a drop in the ocean for the hundreds of refugees stranded here. It has been an incredible privilege to serve here, to sit and talk with refugees, to be invited into their homes (tents or containers) to share delicious Syrian or Kurdish food, to hold their babies, to play with their children, to help prepare their meals, to smile with, to laugh with and to cry with and for them.
I have been blown away both by the desperate situation they are in, as well as the determination and strength they show day after day, living in very average conditions.<br />
<br />
We have made friends with lawyers, teachers, engineers, railway station managers, mothers, children and babies. These are very normal people, all with stories of heartbreak, survival and great bravery in getting this far on their journey. They are all desperate to leave this place and continue the journey, but for now they are stuck here, victims not just of war in their homeland but also a political war which refuses to let them continue their search for safety and security. I have many questions - and I imagine there are few answers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeazwIyQuKm_Mo1Rm4t9G0ybhn2G8keUfcc9e4VVHL6O4QL2tFnYk2RIUKRpHa_3Zz4-xu8sltps2pvg2vu3ziKptw8YU3dPTmJL9SbOPxd9-UsZ3dkZ8yN1nRaDtgFZ1ESmRUdl1DvCs/s1600/20160526_152243+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeazwIyQuKm_Mo1Rm4t9G0ybhn2G8keUfcc9e4VVHL6O4QL2tFnYk2RIUKRpHa_3Zz4-xu8sltps2pvg2vu3ziKptw8YU3dPTmJL9SbOPxd9-UsZ3dkZ8yN1nRaDtgFZ1ESmRUdl1DvCs/s640/20160526_152243+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy getting a massage from a Syrian sports team therapist</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkyvVm-QC8qTnUaZ4DmsgS3d3GBa6Wgfd981wsSC9KW6toshZJ2_29aqeM2i3EaNgiOSYC-JKEYER4RfQJNc0i_4wE0CUW27VQC-vR2bTSo7dN5vTRIZxSHcuw768dXVcetrhhAj-oy4r/s1600/20160526_161540+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkyvVm-QC8qTnUaZ4DmsgS3d3GBa6Wgfd981wsSC9KW6toshZJ2_29aqeM2i3EaNgiOSYC-JKEYER4RfQJNc0i_4wE0CUW27VQC-vR2bTSo7dN5vTRIZxSHcuw768dXVcetrhhAj-oy4r/s640/20160526_161540+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me chilling with the ladies at Deputhe camp</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAxWZz6vtLi5RiUwI6qnl0ZlH8nKHWS-LybVX7H0LuSAKrdK4E0_4tWWJqFrOTAns4W-XN_EMvHAmbZcMIxXc0LBnY1ygC8aNodI2Sq5q5OeERXx232jLUgvKjAW_U3d-7qAmM7UbFMnx/s1600/Chios+2016-05-29+001+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAxWZz6vtLi5RiUwI6qnl0ZlH8nKHWS-LybVX7H0LuSAKrdK4E0_4tWWJqFrOTAns4W-XN_EMvHAmbZcMIxXc0LBnY1ygC8aNodI2Sq5q5OeERXx232jLUgvKjAW_U3d-7qAmM7UbFMnx/s640/Chios+2016-05-29+001+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My breakfast friend at Deputhe</td></tr>
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I count myself as lucky having had the opportunity to serve here but I am also so aware of the unfairness of life - tomorrow I will freely board a ferry bound for Turkey. It will be a sea-worthy vessel and we will travel in daylight across the 10km stretch of sea to Turkey. It will cost me 30 Euro, which includes a bus transfer to Izmir. In comparison, every refugee here, paid around 1000 US Dollars per attempt for the same trip. Instead of a comfortable journey, with the assurance of safety and arrival though, they were bundled into a car in the middle of the night, driven to the beach, packed into small rubber dinghies and sent out into the night.<br />
<br />
I heard a story of a boy who refused to get in the boat, as he said it was not sea-worthy. The smugglers poured hot water on his arms, burning off several layers of skin, before forcing him in. The lucky ones make it over the water in one go. If your boat is found by the Turkish coastguard (before the halfway mark) you are returned to Turkey and you have to pay the hundreds of USD again for another attempt. One man told me it took 9 attempts before he made it here (to Chios, Greece).
These last two weeks have been a time of heart-break, inspiration, questioning and learning. Hopefully we can share some of what it has been like with you.<br />
<span style="background-color: #fce5cd;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fce5cd;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<u>DISCLAIMER: It's quite long - feel free to look only at the pictures, or to save this to digest over a cuppa!</u></div>
</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Chios Island - Background Info</b><br />
Three refugee camps:<br />
1) "Vial", a government run "hotspot", complete with barbed wire fences, armed police at the gate with limited aid and NGO's on the inside (we are currently not allowed inside to help). Home to about 1000 refugees.<br />
2) "Souda", which I learnt means "rubbish pile" in Greek. Home to 1100 refugees, in a mixture of containers and small tents.<br />
3) "Deputhe", a small makeshift camp in the middle of town, home to about 550 refugees.<br />
<br />
Most refugees have been here on Chios since mid March, when the borders closed. Before that, people simply stopped here for a few days before heading onto Athens. Apparently there are 5000 more refugees waiting around Izmir in Turkey to come here .... but, realistically, there's no room! It is likely all of those already here will be here for many more months yet.<br />
<br />
<b>Souda Camp</b><br />
At the entrance are two large white tents, filled with sleeping mats & smaller dome tents, which house families and individuals. Beyond that is the main gate, with some management containers, then a collection of housing containers, more large white marquees and white UNHCR tarps attempting to shield people from the heat and dust. To the left is Souda port, with kids swimming and playing with the life jackets pilfered from the most recent 3 rubber boats that arrived from Turkey with 130 people on board.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Souda Camp</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Souda Camp washing line!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids playing on the beach outside Souda Camp</td></tr>
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<b>Deputhe Camp</b><br />
There are no containers here, only tents inside the abandoned church and shelters constructed out of tarps along all the walls available. Among them is Walid's tent at one end (who is seperated from his wife and kids in Germany), with Mohammed and Fatima (the teachers) on the left, along with Ahmad the lawyer and his family. On the right is Achmed and Armani - a lovely young couple with little Maria and another one due in six months. They often ask for a fan as it is getting hotter and hotter. Just beyond their tent is the makeshift prayer area, which was set up especially for Ramadan that started this week. To the right of this is the church and a toilet/washing up area. To the left is the way out to the street, where we distribute food, play with the kids and sit around chatting.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lining up early for food at Deputhe</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking from the street into Deputhe</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shade modifications once Ramadan had started</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main street Deputhe, from Walid's tent</td></tr>
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<b>People and Food</b><br />
As usual on this journey, highlights for us have been meeting with people and sharing food. There are some of the chefs who have treated us over the last week.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A family group cooking and inviting us to be part of the fun</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hevie and Salmon's family cooking Syrian flatbread, eggplant and rice</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating curried egg, eggplant and tomato with Walid's tent</td></tr>
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<b>Amar and Ghiath</b></div>
"Tomorrow my friend! You will come tomorrow! We are glad" We have received so many dinner invitations and we finally settle on a day that will work, between our work obligations. Our hosts are Ghiath and Amar and it's amazing what we are presented with - fried rice, beans, tomato eggplant, bread, water and potato.<br />
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With no kitchen facilities, family groups share several open fires down on the beach, which they take turn about to cook on. We spend the meal discussing Syrian food (much better than ours we are told!), Syrian history, having English and Arabic lessons and general dinner banter between friends. They encourage us to keep eating ("Why have you stopped??!")<br />
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When we finally convince them that we are full and really do not want any more, our plates are exchanged for hot sweet tea and the left over food is carefully plated up for the next door family, who do not have the money to buy food to supplement what we distribute. It is lovely to have reversed roles, with us being the ones receiving, and our new friends being the ones with plenty.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A spread of plenty! Inside the big tent at Souda Camp</td></tr>
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<b>Breaking the fast with Hevie and Salmons family - An excerpt from Andy's Journal</b><br />
"It was 8:15pm on Tuesday 7th of June and our last night volunteering here. It was also the second day of Rammadan. At Souda Camp we re-joined the family, who formerly had a restaurant in Syria (see the photo of Hevie and Salmons family from above). An amazing spread of dishes began to appear on the mats laid in their space between two portable sleeping containers. There was orange juice being poured into glasses, fried bread cooked in a large frying pan on the open fire on the beach - some with rice, peanuts and raisins inside, others with tomato and cheese, another dish with eggplant, tomato and oil. Our food packs paled in comparison.<br />
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As the time got closer Salmon, a bit younger than us, sat on a white plastic seat near the main walking road and kept us updated on the time till we could eat. "Two minutes" he'd call, "30 seconds" and finally "now eat!", as a call went out over the whole camp. Everyone took a big swig of their juice and launched into eating. Silence rained, as hungry stomachs were re-filled after a day of no food and water." - Andy<br />
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Here in Chios the fast lasts longer than their home countries (longer daylight hours), there are no fans or cool indoor areas, there are no dates or pomegranate juice (traditional Ramadan snacks), no call to prayer echoing across their neighbourhoods, no mosques, and families are often missing some of their immediate or extended family that would normally be with them to break the fast. Instead there is only flapping tents, a makeshift prayer area in the middle of a gravel yard and a different mixture of people. I am amazed at the determination of people to fast in this place, when they are already going without so much. I was particularly touched by the man on the megaphone on day one who encouraged people to wait - "The sun is still with us, don't break the fast yet!". A really cool community vibe, despite being in such a foreign place, often with foreign people. I wonder how my faith would change if I were in their position. - Miri<br />
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"After dinner, we sat talking over çayı (black tea with sugar) poured from an electric jug, with it's once white nozzle browned with the copious amounts of tea poured from it over the last couple of months. The father shared with us, in tandem with some hand-drawn maps, some of the history of the Kurdish people. A neighbour Ahmed, from Aleppo, popped his head around the corner and after a "salam alaikum", started interpreting for us into English.... His Kurdish ancestors were formerly in a place with no borders. Local rulers were in control over their areas, who were characterised by wisdom, education, respect, power and justice. Then, borders were drawn up and they found themselves suddenly split within Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria. A people not liked by either Turkey or Syria, stuck in the middle and just wanting some respect, he explained.<br />
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There was a strong sense of identity coming out as he talked. He described how he was in the Syrian Military some years ago and got shot. If he was a Syrian he would have got a medal, but as he was Kurdish he felt tossed aside. DASH (IS) also hated them, hence they had to flee. He went on to describe their journey through Turkey and then to this Island. Later, a circle of men formed around a game of cards, as we left in the darkness for home along the gravel road through to the gate." - Andy<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing food with Hevie and Salmon's family - see the cooking photo from above</td></tr>
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<b>The power of the Story</b><br />
One thing that has blown me away has been the stories of survival, heartbreak and determination that each family has come with. They were often keen to share their story - Ahmad, a lawyer from Damascus has even written his out on paper and sent it to numerous government agencies and news stations in a hope of getting fast-tracked for asylum. There are many stories, each with similarities about fleeing, IS causing chaos and the desperate hope of family reunification as the final hoped-for goal. One that was particularly striking was that of Rahad.<br />
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I got talking to her one day as I sat waiting for one of our planning meetings to start in a small cafe close to Souda camp. She and an older lady were often here, and I welcomed them to sit with me. It turns out Mirivad is Rahad's aunt, not her mother as I had assumed. Rahad, 9, has travelled alone, and her aunt was the one person selected from their family to go with her. Rahad asks if I want to see her drawings. I sit in stunned silence as I slowly turn the pages, with Mirivad explaining some of the pictures when needed. There's a lot going on these pictures!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ZhBVOjj6FU1WpmYxWm8CoouyqMH808umGsb9jB-k7UU6kNm6tUfE9GgOwpvFZFQzWeA6snEqhqneeLQbhj_6FRBG9ZCW9snziGzNbWdJ_xzR81px-cDINnYmt4mT56Apu3fENxG3fHd5/s1600/20160605_184251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ZhBVOjj6FU1WpmYxWm8CoouyqMH808umGsb9jB-k7UU6kNm6tUfE9GgOwpvFZFQzWeA6snEqhqneeLQbhj_6FRBG9ZCW9snziGzNbWdJ_xzR81px-cDINnYmt4mT56Apu3fENxG3fHd5/s640/20160605_184251.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Rahads' story</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNAVerXzVAaCxQarl1UxM1q1JWB406lGfmyvdQEFRqkRSf2Xiuf9TASZNll0glxN_XsR_hEsZk0YCUT-lQb32kfZ-OUaiK93GiU8n0sNRPPg-SbQirXWdb8jblvQjA8thK57bt-jP46HFN/s1600/20160605_183841+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNAVerXzVAaCxQarl1UxM1q1JWB406lGfmyvdQEFRqkRSf2Xiuf9TASZNll0glxN_XsR_hEsZk0YCUT-lQb32kfZ-OUaiK93GiU8n0sNRPPg-SbQirXWdb8jblvQjA8thK57bt-jP46HFN/s640/20160605_183841+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the tears</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRaRM01hCMNpcLX3AzS0fvwdgOpKnfz45ev4ooYIHvjMxYmTCoJckHi4rviuFHsu3ps8XLq7NeXx3B_E0NG53mp7JPy9xoQTYwQ0XWOfS9p4W_3jALsxUahzqahyphenhyphen6sbzB9mZG3TLmGJ4u/s1600/20160605_183853+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRaRM01hCMNpcLX3AzS0fvwdgOpKnfz45ev4ooYIHvjMxYmTCoJckHi4rviuFHsu3ps8XLq7NeXx3B_E0NG53mp7JPy9xoQTYwQ0XWOfS9p4W_3jALsxUahzqahyphenhyphen6sbzB9mZG3TLmGJ4u/s640/20160605_183853+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She explained the Syrian leaders were meant to be drawn in the bottom right<br />of the page, but she left them out for safety reasons.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgKwOD077fh9Arqsy6AeXYjcbM8jjTqde_Xx6fqfh8YcGzSq0t1TWO7jg61nDOY4dFTVIINm-7Rrymf4X6Lf_wPSWdHyTMIPFGM84CwskhnWRahMKITvjgLiPZT55U78fzEjP7ZNt1lcx/s1600/20160605_183901+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgKwOD077fh9Arqsy6AeXYjcbM8jjTqde_Xx6fqfh8YcGzSq0t1TWO7jg61nDOY4dFTVIINm-7Rrymf4X6Lf_wPSWdHyTMIPFGM84CwskhnWRahMKITvjgLiPZT55U78fzEjP7ZNt1lcx/s640/20160605_183901+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTzZjXl6Tt4xACx5lyVJBe19fA6xqIgJ2rlqfl00ai4zHa1Lw4pM4VJq_0QXFOANtHvmnyR9cNEfx2gBNC9L67WoSsUoVwsXTHznzmFDLBlMNPt0LLyvbEnRPLhWmrL1YL4f7Bq2J3V4b/s1600/20160605_183912+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTzZjXl6Tt4xACx5lyVJBe19fA6xqIgJ2rlqfl00ai4zHa1Lw4pM4VJq_0QXFOANtHvmnyR9cNEfx2gBNC9L67WoSsUoVwsXTHznzmFDLBlMNPt0LLyvbEnRPLhWmrL1YL4f7Bq2J3V4b/s640/20160605_183912+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivIoJrk-CdcuhamYreSqGsdJS-wCNeVakAWAHXI1wvcLag_qYkV4YjVnzENBpa5Rh30kUTPPPkJjeakgBqjkjYgGKXsr02gXyDhZ4c8L8g-QYFWN4JhlAjmgZMLwNH8pyroJmxG0O-vYr4/s1600/20160605_183921+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivIoJrk-CdcuhamYreSqGsdJS-wCNeVakAWAHXI1wvcLag_qYkV4YjVnzENBpa5Rh30kUTPPPkJjeakgBqjkjYgGKXsr02gXyDhZ4c8L8g-QYFWN4JhlAjmgZMLwNH8pyroJmxG0O-vYr4/s640/20160605_183921+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She definitely wanted me to see the snipers. People in their group were injured.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECm-v2rx1a5B0s0O5ScZPq7k4vXvMPUnbI6f4zWHpC7c7hXbQ07Q89ogwvAqa94043nFE3goOzSooqG9uWuRYdmHeWfNbYBWPSlHQLtPTu-54Mg2QmZzEIDiQhLEZdi1G9PRDJuWMUvak/s1600/20160605_183931+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECm-v2rx1a5B0s0O5ScZPq7k4vXvMPUnbI6f4zWHpC7c7hXbQ07Q89ogwvAqa94043nFE3goOzSooqG9uWuRYdmHeWfNbYBWPSlHQLtPTu-54Mg2QmZzEIDiQhLEZdi1G9PRDJuWMUvak/s640/20160605_183931+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4i7B1Gd8eqJPtZAMz5Kn2muvzWgb032ZPzDHERFsJzK2wYRMfAEJTyavBqvQ_PEdZiZ9ksKkcoCTWE00IwWDtZKifAEv_P6ZdhhCO-2V-z5Josd591dNLpcDvE9orWCCMUkXom4QXRb2/s1600/20160605_183940+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4i7B1Gd8eqJPtZAMz5Kn2muvzWgb032ZPzDHERFsJzK2wYRMfAEJTyavBqvQ_PEdZiZ9ksKkcoCTWE00IwWDtZKifAEv_P6ZdhhCO-2V-z5Josd591dNLpcDvE9orWCCMUkXom4QXRb2/s640/20160605_183940+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4REnunhm1wPcs_61D1BCZlwRTc2kAo1nnIFNHS4EuQ5viFsfNyjt7jWA9EEzbohXiBvxo2K07nh31zl5MvoaoifUb1bMIpCCU1j6tPLOQmdOA7gLaSPL7kAePiA3wakpSvVDrOZMptNRL/s1600/20160605_183953+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4REnunhm1wPcs_61D1BCZlwRTc2kAo1nnIFNHS4EuQ5viFsfNyjt7jWA9EEzbohXiBvxo2K07nh31zl5MvoaoifUb1bMIpCCU1j6tPLOQmdOA7gLaSPL7kAePiA3wakpSvVDrOZMptNRL/s640/20160605_183953+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Their first attempt at getting to Greece ended with several hours in the sea as<br />their boat floundered.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTbVJeizebljqYaZ1eF6Y7e9bihHL9aSuJ3OAodD1U08mnHrxMOvI9YbSDV2q_o9zNfTjEW8YPo7OuIZZHPZDDNNAYYeqid-M6sAINBtHfJ_mdNK5QXiAsmxX8IJw1sz6lOgn4DDkBxp0/s1600/20160605_184003+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTbVJeizebljqYaZ1eF6Y7e9bihHL9aSuJ3OAodD1U08mnHrxMOvI9YbSDV2q_o9zNfTjEW8YPo7OuIZZHPZDDNNAYYeqid-M6sAINBtHfJ_mdNK5QXiAsmxX8IJw1sz6lOgn4DDkBxp0/s640/20160605_184003+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the Turkish officials throwing their bags overboard once they had been<br />rescued.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOcLwYk4E2u2Dd4cKTxhGNZoKA7OTmfVFQ4HAvT5P8kaBZBgtMRi1ieifi6yRrIuRvqHpTSyHVQ1slKa85GUS92qfn4Ys9vH-gRPtp7zhaC8IROSKfrvXx7J0UFMTjJvl9YSD6n5TDg4RJ/s1600/20160605_184012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOcLwYk4E2u2Dd4cKTxhGNZoKA7OTmfVFQ4HAvT5P8kaBZBgtMRi1ieifi6yRrIuRvqHpTSyHVQ1slKa85GUS92qfn4Ys9vH-gRPtp7zhaC8IROSKfrvXx7J0UFMTjJvl9YSD6n5TDg4RJ/s640/20160605_184012.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Their second attempt being in the woods for two days unsure of their location</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFc1aBqjSgEVccoqzFnVfAVz2Qwh5UnS5hGOS37LgMlh_jOJ9nagM5uzizznZrAGovcHNFRm62dD8hZT_MLtLjOVHzkK9zXFrg7PwjQWifflQXn3l62YVa54qc8s5iJnKqH5iWgcIYJDX/s1600/20160605_184026+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFc1aBqjSgEVccoqzFnVfAVz2Qwh5UnS5hGOS37LgMlh_jOJ9nagM5uzizznZrAGovcHNFRm62dD8hZT_MLtLjOVHzkK9zXFrg7PwjQWifflQXn3l62YVa54qc8s5iJnKqH5iWgcIYJDX/s640/20160605_184026+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such a profound picture i think. The smuggler is thinking only about money<br />while they pay out with the hope of family reunification.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig11SnzOIVKdw180_dR0gYB_npwdftN_PZQefrjogGMgTlyEMTc8ShyphenhyphenUuXNAwf4tTyt0iNWwG-rx5LMF7MSXHyqW_L-jJT1F6BGS3H8-ZhN4Kg4lmB5WX34AcN9wiFETTDT07etRRtJtFA/s1600/20160605_184043+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig11SnzOIVKdw180_dR0gYB_npwdftN_PZQefrjogGMgTlyEMTc8ShyphenhyphenUuXNAwf4tTyt0iNWwG-rx5LMF7MSXHyqW_L-jJT1F6BGS3H8-ZhN4Kg4lmB5WX34AcN9wiFETTDT07etRRtJtFA/s640/20160605_184043+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the piles of discarded lifejackets - so accurate!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycGzFBU1RUvjPib7bfFGrYX1xTTmvWdn_KtX1VN3dwd7HoG6fQcJsn6HnJfNdDZZrc2PiAQn6VVxB5UUqp-GzUf7GKhqB3x3Mijhq9l29_1AhotT887u6Sf8S5A6Il6ZV59kd3z5Mwd9i/s1600/20160605_184057+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjycGzFBU1RUvjPib7bfFGrYX1xTTmvWdn_KtX1VN3dwd7HoG6fQcJsn6HnJfNdDZZrc2PiAQn6VVxB5UUqp-GzUf7GKhqB3x3Mijhq9l29_1AhotT887u6Sf8S5A6Il6ZV59kd3z5Mwd9i/s640/20160605_184057+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7Lc99o_wJCNlKzLOxRFg98cNOY0XzbeBDcJwz_wSZa_8Uy2hcjEoWTg9NbpHzPSw6hIakdDp0HFnZ_PQH4aig5YN6tFl8pVRD5yibI0c2wgmyEMYQ6NSEB2rasVGge6h5T-V4T-LJTTt/s1600/20160605_184110+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7Lc99o_wJCNlKzLOxRFg98cNOY0XzbeBDcJwz_wSZa_8Uy2hcjEoWTg9NbpHzPSw6hIakdDp0HFnZ_PQH4aig5YN6tFl8pVRD5yibI0c2wgmyEMYQ6NSEB2rasVGge6h5T-V4T-LJTTt/s640/20160605_184110+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now, she is often just sad, being so far form home. Wow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b>SOME USUAL DAILY ACTIVITIES</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSM84A8zljbVy15-fAMeYOqEQH6sJy60DVi2HfzEk-g_vEvsDs4vf7LBeF2YOPCg3ch8DmN50r1OwKLU7zqEX4yZ-FOpV2is7EfgosunBHQREEW-6oabRGT93KWZd80QrlBQNSWFKHAGto/s1600/20160526_112558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSM84A8zljbVy15-fAMeYOqEQH6sJy60DVi2HfzEk-g_vEvsDs4vf7LBeF2YOPCg3ch8DmN50r1OwKLU7zqEX4yZ-FOpV2is7EfgosunBHQREEW-6oabRGT93KWZd80QrlBQNSWFKHAGto/s640/20160526_112558.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Basque kitchen - lots of energy, music, food and fun!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheMXlFxoAfghvK2vPVJDjCntzHqdfl-ap8YEXjyecLyEjfA0qYD11AwMUKZqrPRUgb_k6plBDgDuZ953ScGAIxYH0HIRTCxcdzySiDeVFguEp7Av44-jOZfd73MG29A2DCZhoErGgsDd4x/s1600/20160526_115655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheMXlFxoAfghvK2vPVJDjCntzHqdfl-ap8YEXjyecLyEjfA0qYD11AwMUKZqrPRUgb_k6plBDgDuZ953ScGAIxYH0HIRTCxcdzySiDeVFguEp7Av44-jOZfd73MG29A2DCZhoErGgsDd4x/s640/20160526_115655.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Food packing assembly line - 1600 meals - GO!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyhomAYN5ALz_ijrmxUbtYO8q0kIqlA6i8XNDlArUqTfTtrYAz51W9OtA4sDdzuwHfJQ6-dbelLgk3JU7Glxz1EvAPNbuqaUi3s33CLOPBYANpgEZ9xxplsFtfvo5YbtEfxFyy2sdvEqlz/s1600/20160603_121855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyhomAYN5ALz_ijrmxUbtYO8q0kIqlA6i8XNDlArUqTfTtrYAz51W9OtA4sDdzuwHfJQ6-dbelLgk3JU7Glxz1EvAPNbuqaUi3s33CLOPBYANpgEZ9xxplsFtfvo5YbtEfxFyy2sdvEqlz/s400/20160603_121855.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the lunch menus - chickpeas, coleslaw and watermelon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeybaLM-uijGFwSBQ9_n_xSRsZeQs_EEV5s1BeAp2SZ1Qneqlza4ulIdzqFcw1OuEhnisSg2hyyqZLHrGREpMH9oSm-PeLD2aGTbCAlUIFE8UOTECuxaFzS0WA8RSmazVbzCbbrWv6uNzm/s1600/20160525_190000+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeybaLM-uijGFwSBQ9_n_xSRsZeQs_EEV5s1BeAp2SZ1Qneqlza4ulIdzqFcw1OuEhnisSg2hyyqZLHrGREpMH9oSm-PeLD2aGTbCAlUIFE8UOTECuxaFzS0WA8RSmazVbzCbbrWv6uNzm/s640/20160525_190000+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abeer and Cecelia waiting to start checking off food cards in the lunch line</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaF6Jxm6MC68OmwtAII4_XT5LF01PMOWsxFQlepCNCS-h4Uxkcxwf6LQ6Z6MHEuXF8xV_iEZBvl1dOmG99x5_4-Gk6ZaPh-qzDlgVbYXZJ_j7RXUYVymIHXp3FwQKLxNJTT7UzKfOVcpT/s1600/20160526_162156+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaF6Jxm6MC68OmwtAII4_XT5LF01PMOWsxFQlepCNCS-h4Uxkcxwf6LQ6Z6MHEuXF8xV_iEZBvl1dOmG99x5_4-Gk6ZaPh-qzDlgVbYXZJ_j7RXUYVymIHXp3FwQKLxNJTT7UzKfOVcpT/s640/20160526_162156+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy organizing a football game in the park opposite Deputhe camp.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVjIxJ_fGNSSil0-h6qYiI4okpkr8wBVl8MuGCAWibCEv-IIhbNTR2w032i4oVafQRP28vvVBjNjzkUcHoWJ2oBbAbZenoQSqai8swZrFv3_n3LBPspNETAObv2FRyvnRasrHNqXwwHPQ/s1600/20160530_210657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVjIxJ_fGNSSil0-h6qYiI4okpkr8wBVl8MuGCAWibCEv-IIhbNTR2w032i4oVafQRP28vvVBjNjzkUcHoWJ2oBbAbZenoQSqai8swZrFv3_n3LBPspNETAObv2FRyvnRasrHNqXwwHPQ/s640/20160530_210657.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abeer - our amazing translator. She is from Syria, on her own journey. Her 4 daughters<br />
are<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> still in</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Istanbul with her parents. She decided to stay and help out other people </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">before travelling on through Greece, and then the borders closed. She is n ow stuck</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> here too, hoping for family reunification and ultimately resettlement in Norway. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Without her, we would be so much more limited in what we can do. She is amazing!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_545jN-oZeTESKOGLSvZ9puL_ETDU3mjNkd_ZBMECXck3Wwl54P_SWE7jXx5jy4OTlGVTcsBzH_pwNjjcGW11Dmm_q6cYTDDbNJgnsy5MupD7UJE3xIEsDLrSxLsxWNo8wS_O9JOAmAmi/s1600/20160607_195645+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_545jN-oZeTESKOGLSvZ9puL_ETDU3mjNkd_ZBMECXck3Wwl54P_SWE7jXx5jy4OTlGVTcsBzH_pwNjjcGW11Dmm_q6cYTDDbNJgnsy5MupD7UJE3xIEsDLrSxLsxWNo8wS_O9JOAmAmi/s640/20160607_195645+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Ahmed the lawyer (beside Andy) and his family who invited us in for a cuppa, even<br /> though it was Ramadan and they couldn't join in. "No problem, no problem" they <br />assured us as they bought out only 2 plastic cups...</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<b>A FEW OTHER STORIES... The not so usual events</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Frustrations boiling over</b><br />
There have been some tense times, as well as fun times. On Sunday, we were sitting talking with Mohammed and Achmed, hearing about their journeys from Syria there seemed to be some commotion out in the camp and a lot of people milling around. Andy popped out to see what was going on with Achmed, and it turned out a group of young men about 30m down the road had upturned rubbish bins, bought gallons of petrol, set it alight and were burning the office containers, Marquees, smashing in windows with sticks and were very angry.<br />
<br />
As the black smoke rose into the air, families started frantically grabbing what would fit in backpacks, piling prams with bags, grabbing their children and heading for the back entrance of the camp. I saw a young girl carrying her disabled brother to his wheelchair, before pushing him away from their container. We decided to bail, with the rest of the family and headed for the back exit.<br />
<br />
It was heartbreaking to see the anxiety on the faces of women and children, women fainting, crying or wet from water poured over them and the men depositing their families on the grass outside and then heading back into the camp to make sure no-one looted their containers and tents amongst the confusion. It reminded me of how earthquake aftershocks can bring old anxieties to the surface for people in Christchurch, and this certainly took people back to confusion, chaos and fleeing form danger. The words of one women have stayed with me, "war in Syria, war at the border, war here, SYRIA, no good"<br />
<br />
How do you help in this situation? With instruction from Janne, our co-ordinator to meet at a nearby cafe in 10 minutes, we did a sneaky supermarket run to the closest supie and bought as many water bottles as we could carry - at least if they had to sit in the sun they could get a free drink! We felt so helpless, and keenly felt like in the midst of crisis we wanted to be sitting with people, not retreating to a safe haven. However, personal safety first and all that - very wise but it was a tough situation to face!<br />
<br />
We were so pleased we were given the go-ahead to distribute dinner as usual a few hours later. I've heard the 20 who got arrested are headed for prison in Athens before being deported back to Turkey...I guess their asylum cases just got a whole lot slower!<br />
<br />
It turned out the men were angry about the pace of asylum claims and believed that Syrian refugees were getting better treatment than those from elsewhere. Such a shame that such destruction was based on rumour and not fact. As a result, the whole camp lost WiFi (got burnt), the doctors and NGO's moved out (felt unsafe), the asylum claims are now going slower (there is now no office), about 150 people lost their tents/space, as two of the large UNHCR tents were completely destroyed Ironically and sadly, there was a also protest from a small contingent of local Greeks against the refugees being here, trust me, they don't want to be here either!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcSzHnSpXPDnPTrBYHVnakX-TsOSxJ5n2HRI7gm6LaHJqQzzTezmxxtVVobwOp-bvlZ_1KhlUv6cn53BmclK9BxxOPmdmvK3penqN2j1BxlWkqujeIKnmNWPqfBXeDpCxlmMU-4SVrpsS/s1600/20160606_160525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcSzHnSpXPDnPTrBYHVnakX-TsOSxJ5n2HRI7gm6LaHJqQzzTezmxxtVVobwOp-bvlZ_1KhlUv6cn53BmclK9BxxOPmdmvK3penqN2j1BxlWkqujeIKnmNWPqfBXeDpCxlmMU-4SVrpsS/s640/20160606_160525.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards the chaos from the container we were in</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FoNWNavm_LiQc7othA1a3I7OdZivIremuieh-edVoDd7f6ixCUWXAJAukz5B56RAlxtpWuwFBr_zv1q4vTsjL8Shfg_AI3JQoC8yyZXZzz9gXnZt-oV3OLPGekVzgE6alKiR7OB1w6xD/s1600/13346768_1026822870764362_2502711571072875152_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FoNWNavm_LiQc7othA1a3I7OdZivIremuieh-edVoDd7f6ixCUWXAJAukz5B56RAlxtpWuwFBr_zv1q4vTsjL8Shfg_AI3JQoC8yyZXZzz9gXnZt-oV3OLPGekVzgE6alKiR7OB1w6xD/s640/13346768_1026822870764362_2502711571072875152_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A refugee inside his burnt out tent. Gutting. Photo Credit: Gustavo Vilchis</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>And still they come</b><br />
One still calm morning, as we headed into town to deliver breakfast, we heard there had been three boats arrive during the night. 130 people, in three rubber dinghies with just the things they could carry. We arrived to the port with a car full of bread rolls and oranges and seeing so many people, joyful at having arrived in Europe really shook me. Surely they knew the borders were closed? Why would you still risk the journey? It was infruriating to see them having to pay to get on the bus which would take them to the registration centre (Vial), and hearing of one women whose husband was not allowed to accompany her to the hospital, despite the fact she was in labour and had lost one of the two babies already. Oh! Gutting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUN8u40_ZbBGqOzr4EW_tdfb53bsUPQyGYQvLuHFfDYt0HaD5bCfRtHWTbwkzdTm4syz7IKGQcx7jsb_USRNQFyUryv-3tjdwXqVfZ2wXfGDG_rg0hWt6V2p5huY26NeWs0Nlw6rDBN6P/s1600/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUN8u40_ZbBGqOzr4EW_tdfb53bsUPQyGYQvLuHFfDYt0HaD5bCfRtHWTbwkzdTm4syz7IKGQcx7jsb_USRNQFyUryv-3tjdwXqVfZ2wXfGDG_rg0hWt6V2p5huY26NeWs0Nlw6rDBN6P/s640/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+010.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">130 people in these 3 boats!!!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDft9aq1QkB94bd-eefOap6e28eWrG8udW3m4mqqVUmN1NZluAgUYfRzeucDbpQ8djFeL0sajR9vV9HiMDHkhQQ8F50Qm__TiPPmNx3YNGuTlgIQU_v-KwVNE7r1GKT0YXsQ8kzuz1JEP7/s1600/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDft9aq1QkB94bd-eefOap6e28eWrG8udW3m4mqqVUmN1NZluAgUYfRzeucDbpQ8djFeL0sajR9vV9HiMDHkhQQ8F50Qm__TiPPmNx3YNGuTlgIQU_v-KwVNE7r1GKT0YXsQ8kzuz1JEP7/s640/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting in the shade for instruction, transport, food, asylum....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEukTL777tLdYaT1hyqi8pcmgo9GPaW91qxIYisjndmSkItWLgcjRLCSdjTR8e5y2UnBGRm2UkIf9BZlAlCcpa8b91FBAuLiNAyfso3eLJ0CAkclK8jfMPqIldcb57C7_5yM7_A9pd8BP/s1600/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEukTL777tLdYaT1hyqi8pcmgo9GPaW91qxIYisjndmSkItWLgcjRLCSdjTR8e5y2UnBGRm2UkIf9BZlAlCcpa8b91FBAuLiNAyfso3eLJ0CAkclK8jfMPqIldcb57C7_5yM7_A9pd8BP/s640/Chios+AJM+MM+2016-06-02+007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A family washes their hands with the precious water before eating breakfast.</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>New business ventures...</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0NMfV5UfsYu6HEYFbnkCgfFZIbyVtgczgXdraXI3uQ-6CrgcfjzlU9Yp0bkNKKb-dn-VjIOQ_B4wRvwezoqvtEo9ewpYcl7OV4z49vHvqQvkNhwh6BfOA25Lhd4Qv_CIPCws_BSeoC_e2/s1600/Chios+2016-05-28+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0NMfV5UfsYu6HEYFbnkCgfFZIbyVtgczgXdraXI3uQ-6CrgcfjzlU9Yp0bkNKKb-dn-VjIOQ_B4wRvwezoqvtEo9ewpYcl7OV4z49vHvqQvkNhwh6BfOA25Lhd4Qv_CIPCws_BSeoC_e2/s640/Chios+2016-05-28+005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sand Mosaics made by Mohammed in his tent - his new business enterprise!<br />
5 euro for a bottle - I was so impressed by the fact he is doing something to keep himself<br />
busy and to get money for his family.</td></tr>
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Well done if you made it to the end! There seems so much to share and it is hard to do justice to the fun, energy, frustration and boredom we've seen here. I imagine our thinking on the whole situation will continue to change as the weeks go by and we process things more - my hope is that we do not forgot those we have met here. This whole situation is still in full swing here, even though we don't see much of it in NZ. We have learnt so much, we are so thankful to have been here, and we are hopeful for our new friends, that one day, they will find a safe, secure, friendly and welcoming place to call home.<br />
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<b>What can you do to help?</b><br />
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Some have asked us what you could do to help from a distance. <br />
<br />
1) Remember & advocate - get more refugees to NZ!<br />
2) Donate money<br />
3) Volunteer your time here in Greece<br />
<br />
<b>Where to next for us?</b><br />
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Over the next 10 days we plan to cross over to Turkey & head northwards up the coast towards Istanbul, continuing our cycling journey after nearly a month with off the bikes. Our first stop is Izmir where we plan to catch up with some friends & then we will cycle up the coast towards Canakkale/Gallipoli & to Istanbul.<br />
<br />
Thanks for reading and sharing the journey with us!<br />
Arohanui<br />
<br />
Miri (& the now beardless Andy)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before.... Mountain Man</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7ayipuTpEaQ-TuRtAjGwkskAtnH2s4jYytj4fLrPpOojq1TzOEVoj3BBLoqqxEkocF0HzKy2ya_sf5BHzsWkpkaWAgmAuycJxAWhui84ax054dy-ih_GkAfrnxucGaMd53lGP95cS_Us/s1600/20160609_145013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7ayipuTpEaQ-TuRtAjGwkskAtnH2s4jYytj4fLrPpOojq1TzOEVoj3BBLoqqxEkocF0HzKy2ya_sf5BHzsWkpkaWAgmAuycJxAWhui84ax054dy-ih_GkAfrnxucGaMd53lGP95cS_Us/s200/20160609_145013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After - School Boy</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-5001802928446683172016-05-24T03:55:00.000-07:002016-05-24T06:13:06.188-07:00Greece - From Pedal Power to Public Transport!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Croatia - From Split biked: Makarska wild camp – wild camp past Neum - Dubrovnik – Makulici Nature Camp – Kotor (via ferry/short route)<br />Overnight bus trip from Kotor through Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia and into Greece<br />Greece - Day Trips from Thessaloniki to Mt Olympus and Meteora <br />Overnight train to Athens<br />Ferries to the islands of Patmos, Samos and Chios</span></i><b><br /></b><br />
<i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Next: Chios (Greece) then ferry to the west coast of Turkey (at some point yet to be determined)</span></i><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Dubrovnik (Croatia)</b></h2>
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Dubrovnik was our goal! For the past three days we had been cycling alongside stunning clear blue/green water, sunshine and mountains that reached down to the waters edge, but it was a looong way down the coast to Dubrovnik. Albeit, we had a couple great wild camping spots along the route and it was finally warm enough for our first swim. It was with a wave of triumph and relief when we rounded the corner and saw the city come into view. Despite being severely damaged in the Yugoslavian conflict on the late 90's, a huge amount of effort has gone into restoration and it is hardly noticeable now. <br />
<br />
Upon arrival, our first priority was a water and snack, and as we sat down, we noticed a cyclist coming up the hill (our eyes are highly attuned to spotting other cycle tourers!!) With excitement and disbelief, we realised it was Julia - the first ever cycle tourist we crossed paths with in Morocco 6 weeks earlier!! Back then, I was a bit in awe of how fit and fast she looked, and it was super fun to randomly meet up on the side of the road!!! She was heading in the same direction as us, so we joined forces and enjoyed being a three for a few days! <br />
<br />
We shared meals and a room and biked together the following day, but also enjoyed wandering the city with her. A real highlight was visiting a very, very insightful photo exhibition which followed the "Balkan Route" refugee movement as well as the Yugoslav conflict. Really interesting topics and a great way to learn some more about this area. <br />
<br />
<b> Take a moment and check out: <a href="http://www.warphotoltd.com/">http://www.warphotoltd.com/</a> (This has an insightful summary of the Photographer's thoughts on the current refugee migration).</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpJR3v4_A0YxLX3YGEof5EGjeEOX6MmmW2iIfobR6kOVNtDwoa4qTA_6IcM3VVTvAgJsVJa8z9wm0XWsHDUgIcNIuqrUiAGq0ypRmTPp-nZvlPsaF_QwpokH0At-AbyvusbmOPm2ttvBD/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-05+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpJR3v4_A0YxLX3YGEof5EGjeEOX6MmmW2iIfobR6kOVNtDwoa4qTA_6IcM3VVTvAgJsVJa8z9wm0XWsHDUgIcNIuqrUiAGq0ypRmTPp-nZvlPsaF_QwpokH0At-AbyvusbmOPm2ttvBD/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-05+006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old city at sunset</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Marco’s Place:</b></h3>
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Cycle tourers tend to share stories and experiences when they pass each other and for days we had been hearing about Marco, a Croatian guy with a 'nature park' just south of Dubrovnik. Comments like "oh, you should definitely stop in", "plan to spend a few days", "wait and see!!!" had us intrigued and so it was no surprise that Julia was heading in the same direction. On the way, we also passed Boorne, a Korean cyclist who joined our gang for the night. <br />
<br />
Marco - think a Yugoslav-Canadian-Socialist-Businessman, with a giant personality and physical stature and many, many good tales to boot. He lived up to his reputation! When he was in his 20's, he and a couple of mates stole a boat and rowed to Italy from Dubrovnik for three days as a refugee. He decided to reject offers from South Africa and Australia to go to their countries and headed to Canada, where he spent the next 40 years. Over the course of the night we also heard stories about his mate Fidel Castro (the Cuban leader), interviewing the pope, and many other strong political socialist views and stories. Now he's returned to support his home country, starting up a multitude of business ventures, from organic pomegranates to a tourist Railway into the Mountains. <br />
<br />
He now has a steady stream of cycle tourers, couch-surfers, WOOFers and others turning up at his place to help clear ground, tend the pomegranates, help with business ventures and generally relax and listen to stories of times gone by!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marco!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8fJe-jPDjtFWEXyhMeOJx1_8c7WGZZdF74NftUEYiVj8VMs9iRLMsmy5jdAVoyuZN7OfTWM8cGS7RCQmqQUTEQKMM1gugGDbuE7AnC24NUk5jzpayPSq6_uIoRwjLGqdJ4_ipH9pXWzw/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-06+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8fJe-jPDjtFWEXyhMeOJx1_8c7WGZZdF74NftUEYiVj8VMs9iRLMsmy5jdAVoyuZN7OfTWM8cGS7RCQmqQUTEQKMM1gugGDbuE7AnC24NUk5jzpayPSq6_uIoRwjLGqdJ4_ipH9pXWzw/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-06+020.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bike Gang! From Dubrovnik to Marco's Nature Park - Us, Boorne (Korea) and Julia (Canada)</td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<b>OUR ROUTE THROUGH CROATIA</b></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1vVxyzYOsclyl6QgZ3CZ7mCfPUKxEePqXGunYsM_Z2c_yLRQXGShlZbBF0FmFLNqUEYRJLRoBvN2EoiKAytU3driAsSrFDR3J6aRXGTf8cIBMdNtmV4B1KPsf9qmNBtsf6eN7XEQKomF/s1600/greece+maps+MM+2016-05-22+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1vVxyzYOsclyl6QgZ3CZ7mCfPUKxEePqXGunYsM_Z2c_yLRQXGShlZbBF0FmFLNqUEYRJLRoBvN2EoiKAytU3driAsSrFDR3J6aRXGTf8cIBMdNtmV4B1KPsf9qmNBtsf6eN7XEQKomF/s640/greece+maps+MM+2016-05-22+001.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Croatia - from epic hills, to snow, amazing coastline and fun friends!</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Leaving Croatia:</b></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzXZXAozHX7ZAYD5_ZB4pcUFNhoxqDP3sdWH-NFASD3IrZlHhhQZSSVhCpdM8vec3atbBJWi5VPV122tzob2HbQa5ux39FDqkdK0pCZkLuGuTseZPNzXDO4PGYKGp-4OKlKi-OOs8sR31j/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzXZXAozHX7ZAYD5_ZB4pcUFNhoxqDP3sdWH-NFASD3IrZlHhhQZSSVhCpdM8vec3atbBJWi5VPV122tzob2HbQa5ux39FDqkdK0pCZkLuGuTseZPNzXDO4PGYKGp-4OKlKi-OOs8sR31j/s400/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+003.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our bus luggage: two bikes, two wheels, bedrolls, two large bags packed with paniers, and four carry on bags...</td></tr>
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After biking further south to Kotor, a stunning fiord in Montenegro, we jumped on a bus in order to get to Greece in time to meet up with our good friend Amy Bishop. <br />
<br />
It was 6pm as we settled into our 13hr bus trip from Kotor to Skopje, I said to Andy - "oh, i'm so ready for this - one bus, all the way there. Seems easy so far eh"......FAMOUS LAST WORDS!!!! <br />
<br />
<i>8 p.m.</i> We were told we had to swap busses - this wasn't very clear on anything we had read but it seemed legit so it was all scramble to get the bikes, the wheels, the bedrolls, the panniers off one bus and onto another. Easy enough. <br />
<br />
<i>10 p.m. </i> We are hurtling round some windy roads just as everyone is nodding off to sleep and around the corner is a truck parked. On the road. Our driver slams on the brakes, but not quick enough and he rear-ended the truck. Whole front window of the bus is cracked rights across it, plus the front end of the bus a bit munched. Uh oh.....our 13 hour trip just got a bit longer...<br />
<br />
<i>11 p.m</i> Surprisingly quickly, we are loaded onto a passing bus so in the dark it is another scramble for all the bits and pieces to make sure everything makes it across. <br />
<br />
<i>Sometime later (about 3am:)</i> The driver of Bus B informs us (well, the Croatians who translate for us) that we are being dropped at the next stop and a bus will come to collect us. This will save us travelling into the capital city of Kosovo where Bus B is going. Ok, again, unload and make a pile. <br />
<br />
The bus drives off and we realise that none of actually know when/where/how/what this new bus will look like....phone calls, murmurings....maybe 4 or 5am? Maybe 6am? We give up standing on the side of the road and go inside to the cafe and buy a hot chocy....<br />
<br />
<i>6 a.m.</i> Sure enough, a new bus which has driven all the way for us stops to collect us. It’s very small though so we have to put the bikes inside on one of the seats as they don't fit underneath...<br />
<br />
<i>10 a.m</i>. We arrive to find our connecting bus is fully booked so we need to spend a night here in Skopje in Macedonia. Kinda relived!!! Means we can settle into a hostel instead of waiting at the bus station all day. Back on the bus 6am tomorrow for the final leg to Thessaloniki in Northern Greece. <br />
<br />
<b>Miri's Impressions from the bus window....</b><br />
1. Montenegro is an amazingly scenic country. Lots of steep mountains, fiords and a stunning coastline. <br />
2. The road to Kosovo is very steep, very windy and the mountains are very snowy. <br />
3. Kosovo has more mosques than the other countries we have been in...Definitely poorer, with very rough roads but a surprising amount of development happening, with many German Kitchen design stores and other high end shops near Skopje.<br />
4. Macedonia (Skopje) is a pretty cool place. Getting closer to Greece and Turkey with yummy looking food appearing. Exciting!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was with great sadness that we left the Balkans knowing we had so much more to see and learn. If you get the chance, COME HERE!!!! </td></tr>
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<b> Kotor Pics (Montenegro):</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_nz9wQK2XnZXECXuYMsmZpNK9Eq-4hIA79yYYocFK2v7afx9U7nlfIlYcI7aYJhzVLP4hA39L0cztYBTypCrCmkgh0dwJxSe0WD2prc8UG4pXaOt9TZ4Cj84WbFVHDDLjEflukvfI8WS/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-07+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_nz9wQK2XnZXECXuYMsmZpNK9Eq-4hIA79yYYocFK2v7afx9U7nlfIlYcI7aYJhzVLP4hA39L0cztYBTypCrCmkgh0dwJxSe0WD2prc8UG4pXaOt9TZ4Cj84WbFVHDDLjEflukvfI8WS/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-07+079.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old city walls around the town of Kotor, Montenegro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AqHjx1S2p87pXDKL7UKn5bYAkpTI4wQEdY1i6KzphLYHLAMigaJa5DJbmOcal16ZiM9F-iJ5zmeGjvBgEHxHJ2ivqSIU3uRxNkML7d90m9lD13BiA9aM2O_YcdgDw06lPkyVk_p24npk/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+MM+2016-05-07+018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AqHjx1S2p87pXDKL7UKn5bYAkpTI4wQEdY1i6KzphLYHLAMigaJa5DJbmOcal16ZiM9F-iJ5zmeGjvBgEHxHJ2ivqSIU3uRxNkML7d90m9lD13BiA9aM2O_YcdgDw06lPkyVk_p24npk/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+MM+2016-05-07+018.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinghies around the edge of Kotor, Montenegro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5DpBiT6fUa1xQJTguO4djY5UeyZMvFVWTPMWnf1WY4EH9ewR-44ZV6xRLOOD8IvRRf7p6wFDy5Yvr43KbEkwAB7NlJD01stufW7uI_-3S6TwzBl3VaooON4UsndLis-Jwld23iz99Acu5/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+MM+2016-05-07+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5DpBiT6fUa1xQJTguO4djY5UeyZMvFVWTPMWnf1WY4EH9ewR-44ZV6xRLOOD8IvRRf7p6wFDy5Yvr43KbEkwAB7NlJD01stufW7uI_-3S6TwzBl3VaooON4UsndLis-Jwld23iz99Acu5/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+MM+2016-05-07+022.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Market time - Kotor, Montenegro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgLoLJviVNA1JTFn8u3lix8TGCr1X2gfp2QwQSk47MH1diepBaa-ZbEcG01i3umi1a544W_4Nmza4v9jHg-ylReZW8Wf8WsHKcJmDIpj36qrS8_hjB1al5fbPndewls32dhFJQsFd6K83h/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgLoLJviVNA1JTFn8u3lix8TGCr1X2gfp2QwQSk47MH1diepBaa-ZbEcG01i3umi1a544W_4Nmza4v9jHg-ylReZW8Wf8WsHKcJmDIpj36qrS8_hjB1al5fbPndewls32dhFJQsFd6K83h/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fourth bus - just chillin with my luggage!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDseTL1ZpyltKKtHsmXHHQh8mEc3ObaAAU3W9eUbggpcPClTAlGoo32YTf8UUKThkvRGm0l9tN_a10qPLiszwJzD9OnizwRUDETWetoUOKnkGIFZ4l85mgI_feJ9hbCEC4memL_db5QWHy/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDseTL1ZpyltKKtHsmXHHQh8mEc3ObaAAU3W9eUbggpcPClTAlGoo32YTf8UUKThkvRGm0l9tN_a10qPLiszwJzD9OnizwRUDETWetoUOKnkGIFZ4l85mgI_feJ9hbCEC4memL_db5QWHy/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-08+025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our stopover in Skopje - the city where Mother Theresa was born</td></tr>
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<b>Greece (Thessaloniki to Athens via train)</b></h2>
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Safely arrived!</div>
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As we biked out of the bus station onto a very busy main
street in Thessaloniki, we quickly realised we needed to refresh our memory of
the city layout. While we stopped, a guy on a bike was also figuring out his next move close by and came over to talk to us. He had seen the NZ sticker on my bike and was
stoked to share his experiences of a previous trip to NZ. He offered to guide
us to our hostel, which was awesome – Thessaloniki didn’t really seem like a
particularly cycle-friendly city and we saw maybe only one other cyclist so it
was awesome having a local bike guide!! We were equally stoked when he emailed
us a day later offering to meet up and introduce us to some good local Greek
food. We had a lovely evening with him and his wife and enjoyed chatting about
life in Greece, local history and learning about the secret spots around town
that we’ll have to come back to explore more!! Thanks Stelios and Sortiria!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJvs2RkHyS6MSTaO5z0GW_8fEPLyEmQUzYCNmHDKTET_qA0l05fesNLTDsk1RymNk9iiLJnAeR1q2HJREutMJF7JZNcB_R63Q5MlOre3qPVwtI_DrGSlukCpEvE93uJHxz3aPAdhS6Bsi/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-09+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJvs2RkHyS6MSTaO5z0GW_8fEPLyEmQUzYCNmHDKTET_qA0l05fesNLTDsk1RymNk9iiLJnAeR1q2HJREutMJF7JZNcB_R63Q5MlOre3qPVwtI_DrGSlukCpEvE93uJHxz3aPAdhS6Bsi/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-09+003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stelios guiding us through the streets of Thessaloniki</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a complimentary iced coffee when we arrived at our hostel in Thessaloniki!</td></tr>
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We were ready for a few days off the bike and with so many
options for exploring we swapped pedal power for public transport and enjoyed
being regular tourists for a few days.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wandering up the slopes of Mt Olympos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcr-ZaTA5LyORp4p3-qOsBmVewkAIdLwKQ9K0TAWx52si-1w2-FJdn_8-1jIPeu7S_kL01LXBlttIRmKbMtitg-hJHy5M8cl-ipk7-S5hBo9cmJ2f1DFKXeHt9vZorLcq3OqImBc0fmV-/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-11+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcr-ZaTA5LyORp4p3-qOsBmVewkAIdLwKQ9K0TAWx52si-1w2-FJdn_8-1jIPeu7S_kL01LXBlttIRmKbMtitg-hJHy5M8cl-ipk7-S5hBo9cmJ2f1DFKXeHt9vZorLcq3OqImBc0fmV-/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-11+011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring Thessaloniki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFc8dpUnrSLqRDTefmfP6GNY6n31lgR756knQme9Usu9OY-0k1O7G1w4lWI6_IqXUXlhh6pgIUcLhO11v90DfX8-z8gZjnhYsMJRFDDH-YsY3sVP4T1KsCKQO5kHwDszWfz-9N6FAE4Bt/s1600/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-11+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFc8dpUnrSLqRDTefmfP6GNY6n31lgR756knQme9Usu9OY-0k1O7G1w4lWI6_IqXUXlhh6pgIUcLhO11v90DfX8-z8gZjnhYsMJRFDDH-YsY3sVP4T1KsCKQO5kHwDszWfz-9N6FAE4Bt/s640/MontenegrotoThessoloniki+AJM+2016-05-11+042.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greece - the old and the new beside each other. Main road of Thessaloniki</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Quv01IQr8bWtmSlqt1GNTEvDNcFKX3gVlgfXTM4VBZOTp50QnJkN4tN8BgagXQlhL_XsbWKVC8kdlbfQT2s9Aiv9W9Ky-7nOGdn0Wb1HQa5AnGGWM8uu2HWPnfAviDZtKn1V_fB4rqnS/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-13+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Quv01IQr8bWtmSlqt1GNTEvDNcFKX3gVlgfXTM4VBZOTp50QnJkN4tN8BgagXQlhL_XsbWKVC8kdlbfQT2s9Aiv9W9Ky-7nOGdn0Wb1HQa5AnGGWM8uu2HWPnfAviDZtKn1V_fB4rqnS/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-13+017.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meteora - a cool area of rocky outcrops with monastries perched on the top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXONcHUSdo82m6IW6_DNs1jd-7mjJ8B2Wzzf7X1zO52hRfEm4NnVgdrVJK6mYVFrj-qgdFPrQOOszQlIw3i1jSwS8s4oT0bLBIPo-7zio4oQi7RQ5wgBJvnYTIfJg80A3T8FTe_elsC6h/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-13+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXONcHUSdo82m6IW6_DNs1jd-7mjJ8B2Wzzf7X1zO52hRfEm4NnVgdrVJK6mYVFrj-qgdFPrQOOszQlIw3i1jSwS8s4oT0bLBIPo-7zio4oQi7RQ5wgBJvnYTIfJg80A3T8FTe_elsC6h/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-13+013.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhwetb5Kly5CmP6fvrSDUwthZgJzgl3QhTKyUhlPTzJRdTSlCd9rYeGyWLh00ooEYAaWfJT9mDnkjEbI0MgKK4DnBaOBgwVgK8RvKHJWmIdwOIMvx8_GYfr8Pi16w100J63sLeqJpvI3b/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhwetb5Kly5CmP6fvrSDUwthZgJzgl3QhTKyUhlPTzJRdTSlCd9rYeGyWLh00ooEYAaWfJT9mDnkjEbI0MgKK4DnBaOBgwVgK8RvKHJWmIdwOIMvx8_GYfr8Pi16w100J63sLeqJpvI3b/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+002.jpg" width="474" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQdgAGxq-_iLs1zxUZosCwQ5naF9x7hCRpTCAfqMCV5lHvKAk7OOxgWALp6vO_DM8r67H2w8XuKG9GJHoKPGmLorgUmTtBtPQrGfWWiFPeaQAVzM7m5S9cBx5rcsRI8LuP_QZr25fIcrZ/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQdgAGxq-_iLs1zxUZosCwQ5naF9x7hCRpTCAfqMCV5lHvKAk7OOxgWALp6vO_DM8r67H2w8XuKG9GJHoKPGmLorgUmTtBtPQrGfWWiFPeaQAVzM7m5S9cBx5rcsRI8LuP_QZr25fIcrZ/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+044.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lotIwdxPvnFnk_-l-gSGuFKhdbJcsOzbGljm9pdPFlOjZFLldpzaHLWjtt6w8XVT3lXLEnnMnBhlJB86jylN4Zz0bWn4mWafKxt3JoQgY5qkawKltgA11f4njEjLFZEOuZ5oqwlRAIdz/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lotIwdxPvnFnk_-l-gSGuFKhdbJcsOzbGljm9pdPFlOjZFLldpzaHLWjtt6w8XVT3lXLEnnMnBhlJB86jylN4Zz0bWn4mWafKxt3JoQgY5qkawKltgA11f4njEjLFZEOuZ5oqwlRAIdz/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-13+107.jpg" width="474" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXVGcolrI_38qdFq6_fb_eKBxWCwAuJG3jE3zR1Kpq9r_urd38HSyLoXEKvLCGLtXbKP9e4FdJM7t_MD9ykCsCVT2XQ9VFvHeaRzS94WPSzNqQCeT60sZNdIOZU46vILAkaUYgwfB3juVG/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-14+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXVGcolrI_38qdFq6_fb_eKBxWCwAuJG3jE3zR1Kpq9r_urd38HSyLoXEKvLCGLtXbKP9e4FdJM7t_MD9ykCsCVT2XQ9VFvHeaRzS94WPSzNqQCeT60sZNdIOZU46vILAkaUYgwfB3juVG/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-14+001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night trains.....(Thessaloniki to Athens)</td></tr>
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<div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Athens</b></h3>
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With excitement we headed south to Athens to meet our
rendezvous with Amy – a real treat to hang out with such a good friend on the
other side of the world. We spent a few days wandering the city streets,
enjoying the ruins, planning and hanging out. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmD4CI41axWit2ucjjb6u3Tp9UIMLzeeop844hsd9IkvdHiXIcbS1ubZ2Mw-6MKB6sv3hVzvH9TWFkhqBzbf6LUZSl23EDYi6vJRH0y1TjxGc5xf8nEwlvuv0FBlFxcsCcbzT9fWBseXuA/s1600/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-16+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmD4CI41axWit2ucjjb6u3Tp9UIMLzeeop844hsd9IkvdHiXIcbS1ubZ2Mw-6MKB6sv3hVzvH9TWFkhqBzbf6LUZSl23EDYi6vJRH0y1TjxGc5xf8nEwlvuv0FBlFxcsCcbzT9fWBseXuA/s640/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-16+077.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging on Mars Hill (Acts 17 if you are interested!), with the Parthenon and Acropolis behind us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_gZanCQxsi0W9yOMgSgdL2NWg_O5_tvdKRhzr44-JliIheFDoJ-R2K_iV2auoRjjT72BpvyYSi6oQ5vXROAkhVF_FGVLsWIhaC7wHePZdyemaDnJbWTzt3nwhyphenhyphenEr658Z7cJtvfUyUBSE/s1600/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-17+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_gZanCQxsi0W9yOMgSgdL2NWg_O5_tvdKRhzr44-JliIheFDoJ-R2K_iV2auoRjjT72BpvyYSi6oQ5vXROAkhVF_FGVLsWIhaC7wHePZdyemaDnJbWTzt3nwhyphenhyphenEr658Z7cJtvfUyUBSE/s640/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-17+001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off on an adventure</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvHq4xzsauiDbKACv2PXpMWhHf4bhOyJS5Y2WmSnbU4gKSueMJuVdOPcIQJU7TkzwmKd6K97zvM_Nga_RjRghlZ4ivtRiSX6ZX8zxy-YfyUlLwUgadc43BVAHeQT10Ff0zq-3OyVuAdxgb/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-14+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvHq4xzsauiDbKACv2PXpMWhHf4bhOyJS5Y2WmSnbU4gKSueMJuVdOPcIQJU7TkzwmKd6K97zvM_Nga_RjRghlZ4ivtRiSX6ZX8zxy-YfyUlLwUgadc43BVAHeQT10Ff0zq-3OyVuAdxgb/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+AJM+2016-05-14+055.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parthenon</td></tr>
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So many people talk about ‘the greek islands’ which seemed like good thing to do together…..turns out there are hundreds of them though!! After researching how touristy you want to be, what kind of beaches you want, the sunset ratings, price, beauty etc etc etc we finally settled upon heading to the island of Patmos, and then onto Samos.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Patmos</b></h3>
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Patmos is known mostly as being the island where the
Apostle John was exiled to. The "Cave of the Apocalypse" is the main attraction today (where Revelation was written) but as well as this there are cool
isolated beaches, a really cute little harbour, whitewashed houses, laid-back
Greek men on scooters and many little cafes and shops. We had a great host
Stefanos who looked after us and it was great to be somewhere slower, quieter
and more traditional feeling than the big cities.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4we1IA3pTccFA_6s_R_9pk9PNUpoyaUAeiP9f0Q8YLsBqwEgxdO1qzEXIw5zkwRQU5vAB7n-VqAWGEMwb8EpQAYdg_oLkiT4LXx-Qa3CHlCRymOp7NvsiD0ZgDUY5MHHIN8dvj2UVCEZT/s1600/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-17+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4we1IA3pTccFA_6s_R_9pk9PNUpoyaUAeiP9f0Q8YLsBqwEgxdO1qzEXIw5zkwRQU5vAB7n-VqAWGEMwb8EpQAYdg_oLkiT4LXx-Qa3CHlCRymOp7NvsiD0ZgDUY5MHHIN8dvj2UVCEZT/s640/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-17+038.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset from the ferry to Patmos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzP0BuXmvGBYvx5hT0N9L_a3qnhaLkTpxrSk8tfaootI3YNsBI3PnFqF1vlC0i7J2SzB2xlBkSuj13EOqfRr-pKJP2TntYGjvq82ULdhY97r9F0njQ9k984votzyqOCCkUWCnSTri-EPz/s1600/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-18+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzP0BuXmvGBYvx5hT0N9L_a3qnhaLkTpxrSk8tfaootI3YNsBI3PnFqF1vlC0i7J2SzB2xlBkSuj13EOqfRr-pKJP2TntYGjvq82ULdhY97r9F0njQ9k984votzyqOCCkUWCnSTri-EPz/s640/AthenstoPatmosAJM+2016-05-18+010.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skala Harbour, Patmos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJLgEV19Rke2GEVjFY6iaq6XpVvc1mCYfBVy-oB6PxcrgZHv7uz0vbCYWEOGaWr2ed3kDX3s3XuZL1dj15mS9nbuhHEuXoe44fq42gtJ3PFi8glLoOdvr4OhMLqLiKG_1Pr3ItY4hY2dk/s1600/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-18+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJLgEV19Rke2GEVjFY6iaq6XpVvc1mCYfBVy-oB6PxcrgZHv7uz0vbCYWEOGaWr2ed3kDX3s3XuZL1dj15mS9nbuhHEuXoe44fq42gtJ3PFi8glLoOdvr4OhMLqLiKG_1Pr3ItY4hY2dk/s640/Kotor+to+Patmos+MM+2016-05-18+001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patmos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_Egsf54mdn8ntbPu9fgoKzsyY0WOxqPDZUs5yo3DRb9TyK_8PJMYI3HCl6qDSh855qKgPB4ttgITFq-aUXZwmhGNALhFWBaVj4uLSt7ZTA5abgu5up-3qE34MZ7rKTPqhPWjeo1xI8oN/s1600/Greece+AJM+2016-05-21+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_Egsf54mdn8ntbPu9fgoKzsyY0WOxqPDZUs5yo3DRb9TyK_8PJMYI3HCl6qDSh855qKgPB4ttgITFq-aUXZwmhGNALhFWBaVj4uLSt7ZTA5abgu5up-3qE34MZ7rKTPqhPWjeo1xI8oN/s640/Greece+AJM+2016-05-21+001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephanos and his grandson, Patmos Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-HlMBRbTBKaIoULV_uMllmb_9dM7VQmh52CnUMiI74qpEqdIYlEc-uY98VQznZI27qQn_m0TW6UlCqAoJXsgW5OkDJkvrMbRj5UFl_aAzS3JcQK4tRvBUTlB5Eg4HZM3PUs9tbHRGagC/s1600/13230165_10154274201609575_6711902387090294816_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-HlMBRbTBKaIoULV_uMllmb_9dM7VQmh52CnUMiI74qpEqdIYlEc-uY98VQznZI27qQn_m0TW6UlCqAoJXsgW5OkDJkvrMbRj5UFl_aAzS3JcQK4tRvBUTlB5Eg4HZM3PUs9tbHRGagC/s640/13230165_10154274201609575_6711902387090294816_n.jpg" width="350" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting with anticipation for our Greek gyros (kebab)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovhYtgJ16YmVaq5M9SInunvtqlCbQnvsK2LYzHhhW4TP3OhT9Bb0quG3BEEm0C-T8PtVo-7ZJysVUe4Thw3_aN9fcBUot-aVMsd2wGZD7PyTHxDhOehvwP5Ey1c-5VDsoG3oknessGmeD/s1600/13239406_10154274202714575_3292125080438042950_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovhYtgJ16YmVaq5M9SInunvtqlCbQnvsK2LYzHhhW4TP3OhT9Bb0quG3BEEm0C-T8PtVo-7ZJysVUe4Thw3_aN9fcBUot-aVMsd2wGZD7PyTHxDhOehvwP5Ey1c-5VDsoG3oknessGmeD/s640/13239406_10154274202714575_3292125080438042950_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Us! Patmos Island </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS12XuzPxEOYKY4xN9aIv-sf3U7m1DxGrjO93A-IiWr6J3dNKODmQ9nMc0g_hn4sTrs5m9FM6YTxu-8NaP89nWTwuLXkXq-LpbMCTrZJ_jBoAQhG_w_0nC1878coajqcTo3cLK14MBrOfk/s1600/20160519_104901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS12XuzPxEOYKY4xN9aIv-sf3U7m1DxGrjO93A-IiWr6J3dNKODmQ9nMc0g_hn4sTrs5m9FM6YTxu-8NaP89nWTwuLXkXq-LpbMCTrZJ_jBoAQhG_w_0nC1878coajqcTo3cLK14MBrOfk/s640/20160519_104901.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Monastry dedicated to St John, Patmos Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeyK7Ss2POCMyIJqpQAC2-0gHuUMR_mosvuNGCB_GyxJYqfe0W8lmEXwbTQPikZaj7N-KHv2y8Zt8ca5KvSFhw2RFxm9MMqXewrFM_vLVMcRr27lEjdfPRKWVYhzZZ5sENVAwS5Eei-7dx/s1600/20160519_125251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeyK7Ss2POCMyIJqpQAC2-0gHuUMR_mosvuNGCB_GyxJYqfe0W8lmEXwbTQPikZaj7N-KHv2y8Zt8ca5KvSFhw2RFxm9MMqXewrFM_vLVMcRr27lEjdfPRKWVYhzZZ5sENVAwS5Eei-7dx/s640/20160519_125251.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the Cave of the Apocalypse (almost)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Samos</b></h3>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Known most recently as a refugee island, Samos is a much
bigger island but still has a laid-back feel to it and we enjoyed a day or two
here before we all parted ways again onto various other adventures.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxWR8kx-qMjJoPIW7WI6cyttjy3W4rbSnj2TJceKeGl2eUzatiE553-kI1WovvId_H3OljqCTVe6IaLSSUh4yYJ-LeCzBPLauFBGoKwNwD-pWSTC_Gocx_fZKg-rijnrUAlZnExoev6-1/s1600/Greece+AJM+2016-05-21+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxWR8kx-qMjJoPIW7WI6cyttjy3W4rbSnj2TJceKeGl2eUzatiE553-kI1WovvId_H3OljqCTVe6IaLSSUh4yYJ-LeCzBPLauFBGoKwNwD-pWSTC_Gocx_fZKg-rijnrUAlZnExoev6-1/s640/Greece+AJM+2016-05-21+017.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pythagorio Harbour, Samos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR42A40LGl80lk_rx9HBfAWdxOtunO61dEhJcbzNZmuNZZM3xHnZYpsDbKLYwZMzS7dIaG0rxq1onE4OXwJAqKHXJLKwiiNp0mQMkTR7pK4yJ1gUZV1JyzlJ3ZeW2xf0RI6tdD1_rJNfej/s1600/Greece+AJM+2016-05-23+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR42A40LGl80lk_rx9HBfAWdxOtunO61dEhJcbzNZmuNZZM3xHnZYpsDbKLYwZMzS7dIaG0rxq1onE4OXwJAqKHXJLKwiiNp0mQMkTR7pK4yJ1gUZV1JyzlJ3ZeW2xf0RI6tdD1_rJNfej/s640/Greece+AJM+2016-05-23+015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samos Town, Samos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPGqFEIVLbIiiBinn6UQs1Htc43O5h0C-wRT9zdkDfKWUe7qXWmymfHUpDCdngxsxd4uLH-hdevjzhAEQhtOZXmw8NypHybhHzD62S6_GHk56EpVnm5ZF8lUaaXi07EQJ1iN-V_VfzrkN/s1600/greece+maps+MM+2016-05-22+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPGqFEIVLbIiiBinn6UQs1Htc43O5h0C-wRT9zdkDfKWUe7qXWmymfHUpDCdngxsxd4uLH-hdevjzhAEQhtOZXmw8NypHybhHzD62S6_GHk56EpVnm5ZF8lUaaXi07EQJ1iN-V_VfzrkN/s640/greece+maps+MM+2016-05-22+003.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The (non-biking) route through Greece</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<o:p></o:p>
Phew! Well Done if you made it to the end!! We are looking forward to getting back on the bikes soon and resuming the journey, but it has been a pretty special "half-way holiday" over the last week or two. We'd really love to head back & explore the inland Balkan area, where we simply ran out of time to go, like Kosovo, Bosnia and Serbia - this trip has whetted the appetite to cycle through or get a teaching secondment here at some point!<br />
<br />
We'll leave you with a very insightful look into life in the Idomeni refugee camp on the Greek/Macedonian border written by Colleen Sinsky (a coordinator at the camp for a Norwegion Aid organisation - Dråpen i havet. Today (24/05/2016) this camp is being shut down & the Refugees shifted off to other army camps. If your interested, it's well worth a read.... <a href="https://colleensinsky.com/2016/05/23/idomeni-the-front-lines-of-life/">https://colleensinsky.com/2016/05/23/idomeni-the-front-lines-of-life/</a><br />
<br />
<div>
Peace,</div>
<div>
Miri and Andy<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Footnotes: Poetic & Not so Poetic Words<br /><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">************************** </span><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Important not to the reader: If you're already over what we've written so far, and it's late at night & your eyes are drooping lower in their lids, and your already thinking about what you need to sort before work tomorrow & just remembered that you haven't made the kids lunches yet & that you have to take a plate for something on tomorrow night ..... don't read any further! </span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">It contains many wordy words!<br />****************************</span></h2>
<b>Island Senses: I hear, I See, I Wonder</b><br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Thoughts from the journey from Athens to the Island of Patmos</span></i><br />
<br />
I see<br />
I see Athens Piraeus E1 terminal.<br />
Tents, many tents, green and blue<br />
Two large and white. <br />
Many small and dome<br />
Crammed into every shady cavity<br />
Encircling the ferry office.<br />
Under every tree<br />
Sweltering openly on the asphalt<br />
<br />
E1<br />
I see many things at odds<br />
At odds with the luxury inside this ship.<br />
At odds with the harsh industrial port<br />
At odds with the unrelenting mid-day heat<br />
<br />
I see children creating games<br />
With large plastic pipes & balls<br />
I see a lone girl skipping<br />
I see a pram<br />
I see uncertainty and hope intertwined<br />
But I also stand at a distance<br />
Unsure of their stories<br />
Only guessing<br />
<br />
I see fellow humans needing respect.<br />
Knowing it's too easy to gawk on -<br />
With an intellectual curiosity.<br />
Gazing from my ship<br />
About to disappear<br />
For an island holiday<br />
I see you, fellow human, and<br />
I wonder<br />
.............................................<br />
<br />
I hear<br />
I hear the distant tinkling of goat bells<br />
Nimbly traversing rocky ridges<br />
As they are herded on<br />
I hear roosters crowing<br />
I hear waves<br />
Consistent in their coming, yet inconsistent in their rhythm<br />
What I hear is calming<br />
I hear<br />
<br />
I see<br />
I see rocky walls, fashioned over the centuries<br />
Scaling steep ridges<br />
Dividing gentle slopes<br />
Weathered<br />
Grey and brown<br />
<br />
I see a distant whitewashed chapel<br />
Solitary on the grassy green island hillside<br />
Vibrantly separated by the blue-green waters<br />
Waters inviting in the warm sun.<br />
<br />
I see ancient paths.<br />
Paths to hillside houses & monasteries<br />
Weathered rocks, smoothed over the ages<br />
Now overgrown.<br />
I wonder how these were used<br />
In times gone by in ancient Patmos<br />
I see and I wonder<br />
<br />
I wonder<br />
I wonder how ancient leaders<br />
Who once devoted their lives to fishing.<br />
Now with large monasteries in their name<br />
Filled with golden treasures<br />
<br />
I wonder how they would feel<br />
Those who once cried out for people<br />
To devote their lives to those less fortunate<br />
And follow the call of Jesus to place their riches<br />
In things that really matter & last<br />
I wonder how they would feel<br />
Finding themselves encased in golden paintings<br />
I wonder<br />
<br />
I see. I hear. I enjoy. I wonder. I hope. I thank.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-23187053998453635712016-05-02T01:55:00.001-07:002016-05-02T02:25:52.909-07:00War, Peace and the Generous Goat Herdsmen (Italy, Slovenia and Croatia)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">THE SUMMARY:</span></b><br />
<br />
<u>The journey that's been: </u> (Map to come in another blog ...)<br />
From Venice (Italy) we generally followed the coast to Trieste into Slovenia (briefly to Piran) and then Croatia crossing Istria (peninsula) inland over Vela Ucka to Rijeka. We then bussed to Plitvice Lakes (Some cool falling lakes inland half way between Zagreb & Zadar). From Korenica we biked through Gracac, Benkovac and Sibenik, and over to Trogir and on to Split.<br />
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Island of Lido de Venezia - Punta Sabbioni - La Salute di Lavenza - Monfalcone - Trieste - Piran - Buje - Buzet - Roc - Vela Ucka - Rejika - Bus to Plitvicka Jezeera via Karlovac & Bike to Korenica. Bike through Gracac, Benkovac, Sibenik, Trogir, Split)</span></i><br />
<u>The journey to come:</u> Cycle along the coast towards Dubrovnic and Kotor before heading to Greece (somehow - likely via a ferry)<br />
<div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmFKtHUGE0EtkPQKi-xYgT-3QngO9W8rb4wG_yX_87xiqH1f7XqFeeD6uoTXCUhvM5-CK0nV_X7tgiL3xGCcKC45q94pW2t1zanaWSFtIou-pxto4E0YZ28HvbnhVbyzOfR6u4Oh32AemD/s1600/Croatia%2526FormerYugoslaviaMapGoogle.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmFKtHUGE0EtkPQKi-xYgT-3QngO9W8rb4wG_yX_87xiqH1f7XqFeeD6uoTXCUhvM5-CK0nV_X7tgiL3xGCcKC45q94pW2t1zanaWSFtIou-pxto4E0YZ28HvbnhVbyzOfR6u4Oh32AemD/s640/Croatia%2526FormerYugoslaviaMapGoogle.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">STORIES FROM THE ROAD</span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqa33k_Yn74zTON2RoZOePM8H-0MD-9CpJsE0IlYK_vLdz6YguRTpJVRw2A0y65K4D2HL2Kxaf1-MMW93gn8lWNh_5D_wLq8NP5W2vhyh6VU4bPcdPPz30UhbnjQSM2L2g5nslQPnLMUh/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-29+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqa33k_Yn74zTON2RoZOePM8H-0MD-9CpJsE0IlYK_vLdz6YguRTpJVRw2A0y65K4D2HL2Kxaf1-MMW93gn8lWNh_5D_wLq8NP5W2vhyh6VU4bPcdPPz30UhbnjQSM2L2g5nslQPnLMUh/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-29+014.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miri taking a moment out to unwind in the evening light<br />
(after our largest KM day to date)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Grab
a hot cup of tea for a moment and picture this ... It's 8:30pm at
night, dusk and we've just been dumped with our bikes, wheels and pannier bags on
the side of a remote road in Plitvicka National Park, inland Croatia near the Bosnian border. We had previously thought our bus was going to be
taking us past our hostel further along this road, but alas a couple of hours in we realised this was not the case. <br />
<br />
So, here we were, as the bus abruptly turned around and headed back after emptying us and the two Japanese tourists onto the roadside. With nothing to lose, we scavenged around for our lights, fitted our wheels back on and headed off into the cold and windy night, spurred on by the promise of a warm hostel waiting further along the deserted and hilly rural roads. After an hour and half's ride, (it actually wasn't so bad, perhaps exaggerated in our minds) we arrived to the cosy hostel, relieved, excited and happy to be able to relax! We had spontaneously changed plans and jumped on this bus due to the approaching weather system, which was well worth it - As I write this now, Miriam is outside scraping snow off our bikes outside after a small dumping overnight. We are reminded that Croatia isn't all sunny warm beaches, it has a good amount of character building material too! (Andy)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhPUBk9lEwFBCViz3sUElpXCXM06OfWprs4u5778dmr1YU86tl_fIHeOe7TlelYvDtbw5BMKRPpcpkEWhQclkF7q0qetffKDUUx7YZjXZAGV2Cu5zJTkVTUNblzSNPuoRKDE_2MDzFOFk/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-28+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhPUBk9lEwFBCViz3sUElpXCXM06OfWprs4u5778dmr1YU86tl_fIHeOe7TlelYvDtbw5BMKRPpcpkEWhQclkF7q0qetffKDUUx7YZjXZAGV2Cu5zJTkVTUNblzSNPuoRKDE_2MDzFOFk/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-28+002.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #0b5394;"><b></b></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Catch me if you can… </b>(Miri)<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Earlier that morning (pre late night bus drop-off) we were climbing up a very steep road to
cross the Velo Ucka pass which took us from the peninsula of Istria to the rest
of Croatia, which stretches a long way south into the Adriatic Sea. From Piran
to Roc, the peninsula has been a mixture of rolling hills, olives and vineyards
and green green valleys. After climbing for a few hours (the steepest of the trip to date!) we reached the top and
donned warm gloves, hat and jackets for the descent (standard ‘going down’
clothes!) </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
About one kilometer down, I stopped to check out the view, thinking
Andy would see me and also stop….not so!! I turned round to see him racing
past, full of concentration and not even slowing down. The race was on!! With
Andy thinking I was ahead of him, and me behind desperately trying to catch him
(not possible), I was hoping and praying he would stop for a photo, or to check
the map, otherwise I was freaking out he’d keep biking all the way south!!
Flip, he’s pretty fast that boy!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A LONG way down, he did stop and was surprised to see him
frantically roll up behind him, excitedly explaining my plight and how hard he is
to catch! Phew. Thought I’d lost him forever…<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWV5JhhmPMO4STwD1Cn-pPTN1kjZBVbTOgx854tW3TUzx7tIEO_BSC-LOCeT46jfCPbur9ZoB2iz5mBPBHuORvTBGmEqlJO1Nrje_RJKgFVyWfb2uzlhhLvndS3cmB8FmzcVGTTflq4Hc/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWV5JhhmPMO4STwD1Cn-pPTN1kjZBVbTOgx854tW3TUzx7tIEO_BSC-LOCeT46jfCPbur9ZoB2iz5mBPBHuORvTBGmEqlJO1Nrje_RJKgFVyWfb2uzlhhLvndS3cmB8FmzcVGTTflq4Hc/s640/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+020.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up towards Velo Ucka Pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Shelter from the Storm… </b>(Miri)<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the road, one can’t be too picky about where your shelter
comes from. We have experienced and heard of bridges, trees, underpasses,
toilets and supermarkets all being used to save the weary cyclist from the
extremities of the elements. This story, while being much more urban and
civilised, is still pretty different from our normal life choices in NZ. As we rolled into the town of Rejika on the front of a good storm we
bee-lined it for the centre of town where there is usually a mixture of cafes,
or tourist info centres.<br />
<br />
This day, our saviour was the familiar golden arches
of McDonalds, calling to us from across the square. The golden glow emanating from
the inside and the promise of a warm hot chocolate was too much to bike past!
So, dripping wet, we settled ourselves in at one of their outdoor tables (we
were soaked) and waited out the storm under one of their flimsy tent umbrellas.
It is amazing how slowly you can make a hot chocolate go down, how sneakily you
can eat lunch when you need to and how many jobs you can get down on the free
wifi when the opportunities present themselves! <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCxRN43kqg51hFEoifsURf_e9TE7jUGYQB4WIG_awZ_lclgH9N2cO862JX_kIm7JbnL6T-NlMuYq6JXVmzD5ALjjQ5GkuRjiCeZ6tp84klFO8h5ODnbnkBnfD3MnHHhh8obxVBjmzjhGN/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCxRN43kqg51hFEoifsURf_e9TE7jUGYQB4WIG_awZ_lclgH9N2cO862JX_kIm7JbnL6T-NlMuYq6JXVmzD5ALjjQ5GkuRjiCeZ6tp84klFO8h5ODnbnkBnfD3MnHHhh8obxVBjmzjhGN/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+039.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Rejika just down from the Golden Arches</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<b>Snakes and Land Mines </b>(Andy)<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
It's 4:30pm in the afternoon and we are on the scout for a place to tent, when suddenly signs with red crossbones start appearing at regular intervals on the roadside where we are looking. On closer inspection we realise that they are warnings for landmines. Biking further, we come across a farm house and bang on the gate, shouting out a cheery Dober Dan! (Hello). A lady in her late fifty's appears, and we try and mime, draw and explain that we would like to sleep in a tent there the night. She eventually, possibly understands and then explains in Croatian (no English) that this would not be good, as there are snakes. Finding a spot to tent has become almost like a regular artform! However, between landmines and snakes tonight was proving much more difficult than usual!<br />
<span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj20Lq6duk8EQw-Y9WdfCj1T2LfwrukkH2LgRThpfJvSL08Mr8O-GK2Xhdr9JyitCMxuDIqmu4VIwc7JZ0YUwyceZLq1WxVriluai-02w4QgiyDbNCFHsLxEV6iQ80u4ZoZ2qbkhtsE_akY/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj20Lq6duk8EQw-Y9WdfCj1T2LfwrukkH2LgRThpfJvSL08Mr8O-GK2Xhdr9JyitCMxuDIqmu4VIwc7JZ0YUwyceZLq1WxVriluai-02w4QgiyDbNCFHsLxEV6iQ80u4ZoZ2qbkhtsE_akY/s320/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+031.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>The generous shepherd... </b>(Miri)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ilK_c6F5gW54bgUrPwfJBFrt6QiqKYkDjkwWZkLRItsI5dWXdNH-Nekbkh_EyE7yZEfVx07z50CAOnDZmVKqOcRWyHl1GXK6Rpf-WDTkuZNdC3mcTKF8zpVoe3bBKzD6kBJvVljVpWiF/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-29+009+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ilK_c6F5gW54bgUrPwfJBFrt6QiqKYkDjkwWZkLRItsI5dWXdNH-Nekbkh_EyE7yZEfVx07z50CAOnDZmVKqOcRWyHl1GXK6Rpf-WDTkuZNdC3mcTKF8zpVoe3bBKzD6kBJvVljVpWiF/s640/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-29+009+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Goat Herdsman and his flock of 8 goats across from out tent site</td></tr>
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Once settled in a safe spot, just outside the town of Budak, we were just sitting down to our dinner (CousCous/Vege/Tuna one-pot Curry Extravaganza) when we noticed a local man wandering up the gravel road towards us. He was following his
small herd of goats as they browsed the roadside vegetation. </div>
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Despite no English,
he was very friendly and it was a great reminder of how little you actually
need words sometimes. We learnt:</div>
<ul>
<li>There was a well for drinking water 300m in one
direction, </li>
<li>That the inland road has rolling hills but the coastal road is flat, </li>
<li>That 8 goats is enough for one man, </li>
<li>“no, thanks” to our offers of water and
chocolate (only wine and beer please), </li>
<li>That 8L of goats milk makes 1 block of
cheese ...and other various bit of information. </li>
</ul>
<div>
It was a nice yarn and off he went (when we
realised the goats had vanished!!). We got ready for bed and were in the tent
just after sunset. Next minute we heard a car arrive and a gruff “Hello…”. Andy
jumped out of the tent, not to a policeman, or landowner, but to our shepherd
man who had returned to give us a bottle of milk and half a round of cheese!!
LEGEND!!! Such a treat and we felt super blessed to have been shown unexpected
kindness yet again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHXl54Qg-l2tZ0MOhzgfFHkcq1dlmEAC6UoKycwA_ZFrEfVtmDfYsFwNl40k9zD2zc8ZgOI7VffAXnKuZZmmndPeZnCMy3rcCSztSuaJtMecqsJiYPl-anrOQqxXFTG-NSBT2q6JIZTJwS/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHXl54Qg-l2tZ0MOhzgfFHkcq1dlmEAC6UoKycwA_ZFrEfVtmDfYsFwNl40k9zD2zc8ZgOI7VffAXnKuZZmmndPeZnCMy3rcCSztSuaJtMecqsJiYPl-anrOQqxXFTG-NSBT2q6JIZTJwS/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh goats milk and cheese</td></tr>
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<b style="text-align: left;"><br /></b></div>
<br /><br /><b>War and Peace</b> (Andy)<br /><br />I had heard of Kosovo, but didn't realise that here in Croatia, a place known for it's holidaying beaches, had also experienced a lot of pain, bloodshed and all very, very recently. The warnings of landmines, other remnants of war and stories heard has brought this "in front of our faces". Wikipedia suggests that in Croatian's war for Independence between April 1990 and 1998 some 500,000 Croats and Serbs were displaced from areas with various segments of ethnic cleansing. Over 10,000 Civilians and Soldiers were killed. <br />
<br />
War sucks! It is both really sad and also really eye opening riding through many towns and cities that we have read about in terms of the number of shells that rained down on them, battles fought or people displaced from these areas, as little as 15 years ago. We are about to head towards Dubrovnic, a city that was heavily shelled, with both the new and UNESCO old city suffering a lot of damage during a seven month long siege in 1991. </div>
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<div>
We hear stories from some too about remaining (less open, but very present) discrimination depending on your family background in various parts of the former Yugoslavia. While illegal to ask your ethnicity or religion, this information derived from what your family name is, or village of origin may significantly influence whether you get a chance at a certain job. </div>
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<div>
There's an interesting summary of general events on Lonely Planet at: <a href="http://www.lonelyplanet.com/croatia/history">http://www.lonelyplanet.com/croatia/history</a> for those interested....<span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-Qofi0Ceixs39g2B5QSzcJHs-YmQ3PBlHDhBSAH6ezlbZjvm-5OqrtiJ0R-C_-oo793NdyRqs4EcfDOkOkK69KtXxzp3scpOj7DoUdJV9dIpOKaUqttq4Y7NnIff8a-YlmHCAvDy3Bpi/s1600/Dubrovnic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-Qofi0Ceixs39g2B5QSzcJHs-YmQ3PBlHDhBSAH6ezlbZjvm-5OqrtiJ0R-C_-oo793NdyRqs4EcfDOkOkK69KtXxzp3scpOj7DoUdJV9dIpOKaUqttq4Y7NnIff8a-YlmHCAvDy3Bpi/s400/Dubrovnic.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtesy Wikipedia: Dubrovnik during the siege</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2238_n9UfR8vrXxM3mL_wuHA3Ntt_ZMIdV1oJ3ysRpKUsZzfBgUDEhNpOe4wfmz2nMCGwmqlZfAuaSvh9iiLH_U1Jol2ruK30zDQ5F8TcHlsqfvTLAcSYO6e_Y_JLtIimgFk5TdJdVG-n/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2238_n9UfR8vrXxM3mL_wuHA3Ntt_ZMIdV1oJ3ysRpKUsZzfBgUDEhNpOe4wfmz2nMCGwmqlZfAuaSvh9iiLH_U1Jol2ruK30zDQ5F8TcHlsqfvTLAcSYO6e_Y_JLtIimgFk5TdJdVG-n/s640/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abandoned building en route to Split</td></tr>
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Here's a few pics from this segment of the journey ....<br />
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Enjoy and hope you are doing well! <br />
<br />
<div>
Arahonui,</div>
<div>
Andy and Miri<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYygX8yc1Ukiee_Dp4HHRS-jMbCF2VFbgK9c8HDx7OFCruUgV5LN4YktLSx5qIKsDIDF5meWY1gxkxHy4rSdVp-Hju1FbAUN_dq7eH6_l64F9TFRZfNYXsllZHJw-gF4WUJ1KpnI2wpz6r/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-23+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYygX8yc1Ukiee_Dp4HHRS-jMbCF2VFbgK9c8HDx7OFCruUgV5LN4YktLSx5qIKsDIDF5meWY1gxkxHy4rSdVp-Hju1FbAUN_dq7eH6_l64F9TFRZfNYXsllZHJw-gF4WUJ1KpnI2wpz6r/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-23+005.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cycling with Yoann through northern Italy. After 1 and 1/2 months of not seeing any other cycle tourists in Europe
we seem to have hit the main trails along the coast! We have been super
privileged to have met, rode or stayed with at least four different parties in
the 3 days since Venice. They have had some inspirational stories to
tell and it's been a pleasure to compare notes with them!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghbvAPToNSHR2k1LpqcQcPo2cJTeBEPoDGLiKFpRMWovdE9S-R5bhRWRzGKvTKa8aVifQqh0E08SkxeYAVifA80KEfZnhk31z8V_2YSZn3HxjBRbllnDEtgjZKRNsvbqlmLWLF-JISRYO1/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghbvAPToNSHR2k1LpqcQcPo2cJTeBEPoDGLiKFpRMWovdE9S-R5bhRWRzGKvTKa8aVifQqh0E08SkxeYAVifA80KEfZnhk31z8V_2YSZn3HxjBRbllnDEtgjZKRNsvbqlmLWLF-JISRYO1/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry from island Lido near Venice to continue biking along the coast</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjtug7GQF4l6V95YGmxRHX7PxruEISTWWSU-sz3SixJGKhAvrWEKoNbknLMxSgUjNxj7cwkhPx3EKhUcvdN4ZGOk8bbKlHPuGI6DndrM_c4iLhrNethARLIGgjubYEIe8hRh7wkj3B5yM/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjtug7GQF4l6V95YGmxRHX7PxruEISTWWSU-sz3SixJGKhAvrWEKoNbknLMxSgUjNxj7cwkhPx3EKhUcvdN4ZGOk8bbKlHPuGI6DndrM_c4iLhrNethARLIGgjubYEIe8hRh7wkj3B5yM/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+005.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beaches near Venice preparing for summer: Tractor sand grooming and umbrella installation for kilometers in front of the hotels</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiG94nGOncQzRZkf344QxaQwCYJYNMMhbWaWQrM447yKZo0V8mRTTtM0jWOoZvJyPnt-0A3GdZFeKwmAz2e2kE02dOKtqetXTjJII1PZL-TIZwV7nyJrojHuroDtw8QWC0mll4Xc_6knlV/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiG94nGOncQzRZkf344QxaQwCYJYNMMhbWaWQrM447yKZo0V8mRTTtM0jWOoZvJyPnt-0A3GdZFeKwmAz2e2kE02dOKtqetXTjJII1PZL-TIZwV7nyJrojHuroDtw8QWC0mll4Xc_6knlV/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+007.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a wonder anyone can see the beach here in Summer!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0AM_VyHeRO9X2H6_MkmP_SGVf3TBuKYFBuJvzigKEfKphyhM2EgiRBj1hL78ljsVNMnWsQAQ7QgxDiKgqNfDpeHfPbOxpNCTLcqItKbmnt9FzcgPrw13Sd6mHgoNC0cGrQR0qNHdKWG5/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0AM_VyHeRO9X2H6_MkmP_SGVf3TBuKYFBuJvzigKEfKphyhM2EgiRBj1hL78ljsVNMnWsQAQ7QgxDiKgqNfDpeHfPbOxpNCTLcqItKbmnt9FzcgPrw13Sd6mHgoNC0cGrQR0qNHdKWG5/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+013.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing nets drying in the coastal rivers</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtplPGcbHCOsd2Ju287g0P_uvXjvwmvV7fZK9UG6uS1P2BtqWiRCQOs8N8ox8Y1I0c9lIaUvyb4Q1XlqAPeJKXS84Ee1b7ju3CikNwbxuSe4d8qCMhaNn3bymc55bQ_NPIVb03S5WLuRbj/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtplPGcbHCOsd2Ju287g0P_uvXjvwmvV7fZK9UG6uS1P2BtqWiRCQOs8N8ox8Y1I0c9lIaUvyb4Q1XlqAPeJKXS84Ee1b7ju3CikNwbxuSe4d8qCMhaNn3bymc55bQ_NPIVb03S5WLuRbj/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+002.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitting the Coast en route to Trieste</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpt0abhUHHc_xjnN1Pv9hyM3cGBlnWyvVT5PJsDERDpkzbBdGt98mRme04d0nniACzoNscQsbaW4rFzEqNZqd2RH-egq6pY-rsbq8OdUV4WpyjySR0iWAULVpEJ-LLEmyIt5OTaPAk8b2/s1600/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpt0abhUHHc_xjnN1Pv9hyM3cGBlnWyvVT5PJsDERDpkzbBdGt98mRme04d0nniACzoNscQsbaW4rFzEqNZqd2RH-egq6pY-rsbq8OdUV4WpyjySR0iWAULVpEJ-LLEmyIt5OTaPAk8b2/s400/Venice+to+Treiste+AJM+2016-04-22+017.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great Italian dinner: some awesome cheese, Salami, Bread, Spaghetti with Parmesan and a little wine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Z6RKF8ASmzdbUoFiXFSb9xhsNo5l83iPEDGSdTrWkxO8tBascR0WVOIJIMeBLtY2yqIMxcg987vjLIX5xYJy6N3mWP57_f3rVHi13vlfVbAhUhm0UrnI9me5yGa-aza-oyhRMOLglWAK/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Z6RKF8ASmzdbUoFiXFSb9xhsNo5l83iPEDGSdTrWkxO8tBascR0WVOIJIMeBLtY2yqIMxcg987vjLIX5xYJy6N3mWP57_f3rVHi13vlfVbAhUhm0UrnI9me5yGa-aza-oyhRMOLglWAK/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+031.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our final Italian Pizza before entering Slovenia: A Margaritta with Baffello Mozzeralo in Trieste (thanks Tony!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvW3t1wySDf3knPPJusa8XnJdNwnQVnD9sA6Kp6-x3mBlH7oXNPAVyTjngXjGvPy7LHU1E3d5z3qILUaqc0UOK2g_mZc1y8WVgnLp4ghKdfV2HQ9j5yAws3WtLukCDA5QIGdecB3iTtYp/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvW3t1wySDf3knPPJusa8XnJdNwnQVnD9sA6Kp6-x3mBlH7oXNPAVyTjngXjGvPy7LHU1E3d5z3qILUaqc0UOK2g_mZc1y8WVgnLp4ghKdfV2HQ9j5yAws3WtLukCDA5QIGdecB3iTtYp/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+045.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A freezing coastal ride leaving Trieste</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxO-Aenf6-lLeyTjFU1X11Ri5qmOZe0JvUfbUkIyyNZp8QmquA79IcDhNAClpo507VTNQ9V0adTIi63fPMPIFpm1SV2Puh-VeixGAzSzv0_72Q55PCVi25U7qq2iH3t9tIqlpNdNIutCKZ/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxO-Aenf6-lLeyTjFU1X11Ri5qmOZe0JvUfbUkIyyNZp8QmquA79IcDhNAClpo507VTNQ9V0adTIi63fPMPIFpm1SV2Puh-VeixGAzSzv0_72Q55PCVi25U7qq2iH3t9tIqlpNdNIutCKZ/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-24+013.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Border crossings: Our day in Slovenija</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglOXzNYNI6VcCjd_uNeCUHH2B0KnacrGwVPM0fuSTBUhi1uHcEJ0947sAeuzP9i9iAL5eT4DH4LkQvHagpBTO-GGmDbcBrg3kPx30hxAfX-yYlmq_tzlMdA0jY8UyypoZkMRqnBlPUGF14/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglOXzNYNI6VcCjd_uNeCUHH2B0KnacrGwVPM0fuSTBUhi1uHcEJ0947sAeuzP9i9iAL5eT4DH4LkQvHagpBTO-GGmDbcBrg3kPx30hxAfX-yYlmq_tzlMdA0jY8UyypoZkMRqnBlPUGF14/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+039.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gazing back at the Alps we'd crossed from Piran on the Istria Peninsula</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVLztlg3p9hltJwqtvx9DvrC3-vXgzIz0W1L15PLRo3c0dVtwWaIjHENU87k1Ftt339UtuIw8L2OIJByIdeiTZvn4s55T2KuAH3w9aJvMbumh2kRuwaqDKSzia2yXq9oy1PCoiJYF0hgr/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVLztlg3p9hltJwqtvx9DvrC3-vXgzIz0W1L15PLRo3c0dVtwWaIjHENU87k1Ftt339UtuIw8L2OIJByIdeiTZvn4s55T2KuAH3w9aJvMbumh2kRuwaqDKSzia2yXq9oy1PCoiJYF0hgr/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+054.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piran (Slovenija) - A cool small fishing village on the Istria Peninsula</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBaDQvYYHCJmx93bnkpkKv7Nb1EW06bmN_i35pJdbg8gGGbkm1zIcG_dXmzWsJJPRuZv6yJlPAm8j2tkWQRLFGFvQGLdVDtzA7AJZ7RirxeVx1vx1Eb0iqE_ps8CAH1xVi4LkoU_bLWkw/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBaDQvYYHCJmx93bnkpkKv7Nb1EW06bmN_i35pJdbg8gGGbkm1zIcG_dXmzWsJJPRuZv6yJlPAm8j2tkWQRLFGFvQGLdVDtzA7AJZ7RirxeVx1vx1Eb0iqE_ps8CAH1xVi4LkoU_bLWkw/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+027.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piran .... Ahhhhh</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhng0C1IuqiFtZ5nrsy3fKwDO_VWmQkGHOhLdd5obkKdvlps_vcMu-n-a1CAAILI1gdh1VuPtWEaUPimj_We0sCYy8pEeMnjiSy-lix_uNhE_cDd6gE5dQwKjOtTEaGxzaZKamRTf5RL2_x/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhng0C1IuqiFtZ5nrsy3fKwDO_VWmQkGHOhLdd5obkKdvlps_vcMu-n-a1CAAILI1gdh1VuPtWEaUPimj_We0sCYy8pEeMnjiSy-lix_uNhE_cDd6gE5dQwKjOtTEaGxzaZKamRTf5RL2_x/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+010.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roc: An example of one of the many ancient walled villages regularly placed on the hill tops inland in the Istria Peninsula (Croatia)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5sjtCoY-n6FFCBhH9n2SffM2gk4aIMHCGtRh6YLFVkTLgCWjTm9EOEDBUn8Cqz1Cjsh0mD5VD4ckaJFUv7_6heuwmjksylcvDPJQ5DKO498hSOQ0wjjQMEcf7DegZN3l4W_BGxh1EfCjN/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5sjtCoY-n6FFCBhH9n2SffM2gk4aIMHCGtRh6YLFVkTLgCWjTm9EOEDBUn8Cqz1Cjsh0mD5VD4ckaJFUv7_6heuwmjksylcvDPJQ5DKO498hSOQ0wjjQMEcf7DegZN3l4W_BGxh1EfCjN/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+067.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boj: Hilltop towns (Croatia)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_5B1-iPXYFWVkuL7JkZe-d4Sz9QDrspg6w6JC81efpE8q5it8bxbRPk-oDENveEdT-uRyIfAV8fVYmyFfMjnHnBC7AVcDAuxbYZ_UmzfjHpqbJdMvirltbAGRBqCTHyF1NITIDLuOyQl/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+085B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_5B1-iPXYFWVkuL7JkZe-d4Sz9QDrspg6w6JC81efpE8q5it8bxbRPk-oDENveEdT-uRyIfAV8fVYmyFfMjnHnBC7AVcDAuxbYZ_UmzfjHpqbJdMvirltbAGRBqCTHyF1NITIDLuOyQl/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-25+085B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The green interior: Istria (known for it's truffles growing amongst the oaks)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSkEO_1alTO4yN4JMDq_Dbr6vTM_6cc9QupXNHx49Q2muuyxatxHcD9KyhVgFRFrr16twUchdVaQSC6qssF6ZX97EF9r-FiynLoiCRX8X4x4xQcoODVaWj94AwX7UKdoyFPCwEjJG2H2J/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSkEO_1alTO4yN4JMDq_Dbr6vTM_6cc9QupXNHx49Q2muuyxatxHcD9KyhVgFRFrr16twUchdVaQSC6qssF6ZX97EF9r-FiynLoiCRX8X4x4xQcoODVaWj94AwX7UKdoyFPCwEjJG2H2J/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+009.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green Istria</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYKoqtjWAwUVe6t80qAxIDHfKFXIQCVpi6mQGYE8S7h-5TjUoxU6GYnz2x6WzX248hlu36F2-7P55UCRHJONLV4mG9cfSSY_xAR2Ulv_v7uh4l0WuxSoyFlkd_wFqdpMECWeBADAWDs7t/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-27+063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYKoqtjWAwUVe6t80qAxIDHfKFXIQCVpi6mQGYE8S7h-5TjUoxU6GYnz2x6WzX248hlu36F2-7P55UCRHJONLV4mG9cfSSY_xAR2Ulv_v7uh4l0WuxSoyFlkd_wFqdpMECWeBADAWDs7t/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-27+063.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plitvica Lakes (Inland Croatia) - Spot the umbrella brigade back right </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4X1AvmcZePubrPQjGwpdHzqiMxxTQ6qXveD6WblLyov0hWfEN2Xn0eqxufJ9L_4fTVEMu10tgKcyBbZtS6IjPxIOzp1CJ_jwTzCBxskxpaaCBU8pM9eIcsrwpCW5GskBBWOYcAsIxLGr/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-27+102+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4X1AvmcZePubrPQjGwpdHzqiMxxTQ6qXveD6WblLyov0hWfEN2Xn0eqxufJ9L_4fTVEMu10tgKcyBbZtS6IjPxIOzp1CJ_jwTzCBxskxpaaCBU8pM9eIcsrwpCW5GskBBWOYcAsIxLGr/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-27+102+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the Plitvicka Lakes from above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjAOukFjvwwyJFsWHmoH2-IedMqzWJbHLp21aGo7_LEDQAVNGcBk5cXjl0aPMOMGmk2737MeNqaqBU3V-ryJ8Xyk1xFI9g_-Cu_9UvQWFX0gS9pphmPFCBhKYAq1A_IVJ0g9Pxvdh-12R/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjAOukFjvwwyJFsWHmoH2-IedMqzWJbHLp21aGo7_LEDQAVNGcBk5cXjl0aPMOMGmk2737MeNqaqBU3V-ryJ8Xyk1xFI9g_-Cu_9UvQWFX0gS9pphmPFCBhKYAq1A_IVJ0g9Pxvdh-12R/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-29+022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle ruins while climbing up from Obrovac</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJ-D7FkJ1kmFwLZ0UYU15xzBOnMWvDFmaMQVanwd5TXuvti6LYpSP41AA_A0L3IeSQMYjkvwEmHWglz4rwlCUFeFHCNdjQ55nhHsVhUbuWbbcaTcGLX4uekqWl4u0C5rLMvtRTADmpxHE/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJ-D7FkJ1kmFwLZ0UYU15xzBOnMWvDFmaMQVanwd5TXuvti6LYpSP41AA_A0L3IeSQMYjkvwEmHWglz4rwlCUFeFHCNdjQ55nhHsVhUbuWbbcaTcGLX4uekqWl4u0C5rLMvtRTADmpxHE/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+012.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view towards Sibenik</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQl9QsiWkkXXPytnEX2ugEHVu8cEeuamE6TWrhNb-wFJ_fbcCXS-oZW9s51KCVXq7bxNu_iFSLq2lU5E0sl47iU-A5HaFDPZMgZ77DzzNa-6deq5IGYyfcln6zXEqppR7-biTNWWUpKCLt/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+018+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQl9QsiWkkXXPytnEX2ugEHVu8cEeuamE6TWrhNb-wFJ_fbcCXS-oZW9s51KCVXq7bxNu_iFSLq2lU5E0sl47iU-A5HaFDPZMgZ77DzzNa-6deq5IGYyfcln6zXEqppR7-biTNWWUpKCLt/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+018+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sibenik, Croatia</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPsTxj_3QUjjmLi8y45nEWSqDmGZ-gAbtULnkfung35trq6yJG0SQlhCSnIs6b2OdmUapXAL9Hep6xR43Jx-q0mdZrm9t9NPTFCmku8lm73JwnrNHw3S_bgCEUAmAW3OBaSN4ZvwsA91Zq/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+028+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPsTxj_3QUjjmLi8y45nEWSqDmGZ-gAbtULnkfung35trq6yJG0SQlhCSnIs6b2OdmUapXAL9Hep6xR43Jx-q0mdZrm9t9NPTFCmku8lm73JwnrNHw3S_bgCEUAmAW3OBaSN4ZvwsA91Zq/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-04-30+028+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The interspersed olives and vineyard groves adjoining the Mediterranean</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDTGVmgvLsBjWtw5QBz5FKYJdXGq4NLdvcJvPwF45ekqqC4lMzD2qTRymFYZIUBc7S3DMZR2QNuXimPAceHRP_BcVvJ7SrqKSQAP1RmwaMIxOy7EWAxamDxtShh37cVf4GSlGaURM6r0H/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+006+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDTGVmgvLsBjWtw5QBz5FKYJdXGq4NLdvcJvPwF45ekqqC4lMzD2qTRymFYZIUBc7S3DMZR2QNuXimPAceHRP_BcVvJ7SrqKSQAP1RmwaMIxOy7EWAxamDxtShh37cVf4GSlGaURM6r0H/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+006+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A night spent in an abandoned apartment left open to Cycle Tourists near Split with these two epic adventurers travelling from Spain to China</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4OwOt8ebhCb9PBWR7aJgOroqhDQrW8QWV86BJh0ce9qLfB8LKgkW2senexMf1-bhjDXueYRYh9ywtBz2qGW9WkKT58g-_M39shCszedCvPPYjrsrS__7lrVYmEih8PLV_a3K_KONRg3p/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4OwOt8ebhCb9PBWR7aJgOroqhDQrW8QWV86BJh0ce9qLfB8LKgkW2senexMf1-bhjDXueYRYh9ywtBz2qGW9WkKT58g-_M39shCszedCvPPYjrsrS__7lrVYmEih8PLV_a3K_KONRg3p/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+019.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The UNESCO world heritage Palace in the old city of Split</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UkggqVZeT-_GMT2dvBftsg46DjFV2GhgBxWSeNXaF1Cz0wGwLEwXxJry2GXjPUsCpoXEAQfR0SiNqjeIxRINK4RSbNGW68xdbSJb12pD-EfH6Dcz-2woCUT3ukahifKwBMRPqNMe_7KG/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UkggqVZeT-_GMT2dvBftsg46DjFV2GhgBxWSeNXaF1Cz0wGwLEwXxJry2GXjPUsCpoXEAQfR0SiNqjeIxRINK4RSbNGW68xdbSJb12pD-EfH6Dcz-2woCUT3ukahifKwBMRPqNMe_7KG/s400/Plitvicka+to+Split+AJM+2016-05-01+047.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old city of Split</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jbmzxqaofWCwIArCO05op3WoPNDRj2cfZy3Z3f7v871qVOkIELoi7uSztKYaTz9FRGnNjFI5d08A0sdCGG0cjdbBbVm9N77zg3sT60ThJwGSCzLpJ7uxU_1-_aeA62sPCE-3vMMrbLFC/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+005+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jbmzxqaofWCwIArCO05op3WoPNDRj2cfZy3Z3f7v871qVOkIELoi7uSztKYaTz9FRGnNjFI5d08A0sdCGG0cjdbBbVm9N77zg3sT60ThJwGSCzLpJ7uxU_1-_aeA62sPCE-3vMMrbLFC/s640/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+005+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tis the season for vibrant red poppies, reminding us of ANZAC day back home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQeIF0o2KPuoYHYjp51hCaZSNhtQrsbpXhJkzdLrxe3QX3k9xrmKABThmfSR6jg6dV8jCEpf94nYtWR2wMA65Wff01AyMM1_wIrhOSiYqhby9ayGm1scpPQzODyR3MseDuo6vLSEOd-Bg/s1600/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+010+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQeIF0o2KPuoYHYjp51hCaZSNhtQrsbpXhJkzdLrxe3QX3k9xrmKABThmfSR6jg6dV8jCEpf94nYtWR2wMA65Wff01AyMM1_wIrhOSiYqhby9ayGm1scpPQzODyR3MseDuo6vLSEOd-Bg/s640/Plitvicka+to+Split+MM+2016-04-30+010+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view towards Trogir and the distant Split along the Dalmatian Coast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
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<br />
<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">SUPPLEMENTARY SECTION: THE DESCENT AWARDS </span></b><i><b>***** Reader alert - probably meaningless to anyone who hasn't biked these roads *****</b></i></div>
<div>
<b><i><br /></i></b>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyjJ32mIRzG4T5BYJYmHUWN22D7_XYugw5v35fUrzSQBQABePJJX6LdkLlQaZ2LfDJxWELQZEbdhvO1B2-Ue1EQEP7DpaQqHwG3bEjnl-MSB9vj_sk4s7vuAN5zZTeL26gp0GmcxmpzoyZ/s1600/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyjJ32mIRzG4T5BYJYmHUWN22D7_XYugw5v35fUrzSQBQABePJJX6LdkLlQaZ2LfDJxWELQZEbdhvO1B2-Ue1EQEP7DpaQqHwG3bEjnl-MSB9vj_sk4s7vuAN5zZTeL26gp0GmcxmpzoyZ/s400/Croatia_TriestetoPitvice_MM_+2016-04-26+034.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Most Deserved Descent: Vela Ucka Pass to Rejika (Croatia)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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Fresh from a particularly grunty ascent of Vela Ucka in Croatia, we'd like to take this opportunity to dish out a few awards to our memorable descents to date. The descents are made all the more sweet (with some exceptions of the miserable ones) by the effort and enormous sense of satisfaction of reaching the top. So without further ado:<br />
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</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Most Fun descent: Fern Pass to Nassareith (Austria)</li>
<li>Most leisurely descent: Brenner Pass to Brixen - 50km of old railway turned cycle path (Italy)</li>
<li>Most scenic: Gerdena Joch Pass to La Villa (Dolomites, Italy) - AWESOME!!</li>
<li>Coldest: Valparo Pass to Cortina d'Ampezzo (Dolomites, Italy) - ALMOST SNOWING</li>
<li>Most unexpected: Between Buje and Buzet (Croatia)</li>
<li>Most deserved: Vela Ucka Pass to Rijeka (Croatia)</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-63163487425880954132016-04-21T09:32:00.002-07:002016-04-21T09:32:35.381-07:00CROSSING THE ALPS! Germany - Austria - Italy to Venice<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Summary:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Biked from Lake Bodensee (Konstanz) to Fussen and then
joined the Via Claudia Augusta bike path over Fern Pass into Austria.</li>
<li>Passed through Innsbruck (Austria) and over Brenner Pass
into Northern Italy.</li>
<li>Spent a few days in the Dolomites – a UNESCO World Heritage
Park, leaving from Brixen over Gardena Grodner Joch and Valparola passes, descending into Cortina d'Ampezzo.</li>
<li>Cycled down through Belluno, Lago di Croce, Vittorio and Mogliano</li>
<li>Celebrated crossing 2000kms of riding and are currently just
outside of Venice, back on the coast for the first time since the start of our
time in The Netherlands.</li>
</ul>
What a journey the last week has been! It has included our biggest
ascents and descents, some spectacular scenery, great people and of course,
good food! Whenever you see the words “CROSSING THE ALPS”, you need to imagine
these being said in a very excitable, enthusiastic, adventuresome way, which could
include feelings of exultation but also despair!<o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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We were enjoying Germany so much we continued on through to
Fussen, a town at the foot of the Bavarian Alps, famous for two huge castles
and the best serving of “Pork Knuckle” within the Bavarian region - a delicacy
we attempted to try but the only place open on a Sunday night had none left!
Gutted! It was with much anticipation that we set off from here to CROSS THE
ALPS, following the Via Claudia Augusta, the earliest trade route through the
mountains to Austria. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Ot3zA2EHyx6wihNrObHCo3wTBb4viif_k66y4DThe7MqYJOx7peHzsLa5AGEQ8qpnsSmnjkOw47IPYHSN2re28dkimMRCOEHGT8MIArWVu14bUM05ouIHF-nJjzWEnxQCdxIHbMGgovt/s1600/IMG_8752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Ot3zA2EHyx6wihNrObHCo3wTBb4viif_k66y4DThe7MqYJOx7peHzsLa5AGEQ8qpnsSmnjkOw47IPYHSN2re28dkimMRCOEHGT8MIArWVu14bUM05ouIHF-nJjzWEnxQCdxIHbMGgovt/s640/IMG_8752.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For those who love a bit of context!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu5wwutLBvwDpYYKNQjpXRyTRDdXitpnilu84PzEUrzpkA61TFZcGqZoaK4yYGIDP6XQjgrVKXK0NmlgBOZiA3QgDSiCanCuZMkhdSdUQ5y8ruFVz1L6P0suWToavf7U7XKXZgVwZVL_e/s1600/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu5wwutLBvwDpYYKNQjpXRyTRDdXitpnilu84PzEUrzpkA61TFZcGqZoaK4yYGIDP6XQjgrVKXK0NmlgBOZiA3QgDSiCanCuZMkhdSdUQ5y8ruFVz1L6P0suWToavf7U7XKXZgVwZVL_e/s640/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+077.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading off from Fussen into Austria, towards Fern Pass - the first big climb.</td></tr>
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<b>** A note about cycle paths – </b>we have a love/hate
relationship with them. While offering great scenery and some time away from
traffic, they almost always detour through every village and past every church
steeple – fun for a while but not so awesome if you are trying to get from
point A to B. Roads are often graded perfectly for cycling, while cycle paths
often seem to be built by people who don’t actually ride bikes – with steep
ascents sending you frantically changing gears just to make it to the top of
every small, unnecessary rise in the path! We have sometimes given up on them
and found our way back to the road for some fast kilometres and some kinder
gradients!<br />
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The climb to Fernpass on the Via Augusta started well, then
turned steep and gravelly so we headed for the road. This worked well until we
came to a sign with a picture of a bicycle, tractor and old fashioned car. It
said something underneath – perhaps “please look out for cyclists, farmers and
old-car enthusiasts…..”, however a few km later we realised it probably
actually said “PROHIBITED!!!” as a motorcyclist zoomed past us wagging his
finger. We weren’t sure why until around the next corner the road started
descending, big walls appeared and the dark mouth of a tunnel appeared…..a good
lesson for our first day in Austria. We turned back, found the cycle path and
enjoyed the scenic tour through the Austrian countryside – a delightful mixture
of green pastures, cute houses and stunning mountain backdrops!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq52RNj31Q6CyFFmooATh5X6nn9NVcoBvV2fKhr593CX7FtZwXt2TEBv6yywrJMwV-OwFWRz-RNDAvBrI-FLetRe31Uh8Ybf8dKfpEOLJNvs6Zm5SsiqwoeSZbEfn1WF_uAgezh33fuSmf/s1600/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq52RNj31Q6CyFFmooATh5X6nn9NVcoBvV2fKhr593CX7FtZwXt2TEBv6yywrJMwV-OwFWRz-RNDAvBrI-FLetRe31Uh8Ybf8dKfpEOLJNvs6Zm5SsiqwoeSZbEfn1WF_uAgezh33fuSmf/s640/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+121.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more relaxing tunnel experience than the one mentioined!</td></tr>
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The last few kms were back on a steep gravel road which we
slowly chugged up (hard work on a fully loaded bike, but expected when CROSSING
THE ALPS!!!), but we were rewarded when we found a path from the top which rejoined
the road – an opportunity we took with great enthusiasm – 30km of fast, smooth
downhill in the evening light. The first of many fun descents on this mountain
crossing journey!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLCWgnwGi47uin5GWwcd_DW1IdTcJFr4vJokxaqg1IZXg4zbFLZrdHgVC_lmvscVy36JZBRo_3es8ti2bb2M-3e2qt2yt5CJJDqUWXEpJHxP2n4ByclFiyXf7qGsdu8YdBIhfP2VcWQ2d/s1600/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLCWgnwGi47uin5GWwcd_DW1IdTcJFr4vJokxaqg1IZXg4zbFLZrdHgVC_lmvscVy36JZBRo_3es8ti2bb2M-3e2qt2yt5CJJDqUWXEpJHxP2n4ByclFiyXf7qGsdu8YdBIhfP2VcWQ2d/s640/Konstanz+to+Innsbruck+AJM+2016-04-11+114.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank God! An old coin box to deposit your thanks to the gods for safe travel over Fern Pass!</td></tr>
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From Nassereith we left the Via Claudia and headed east
along the Inns valley to Telfs and Innsbruck, an awesome town surrounded by
mountains on all sides. This is serious mountain country (we are, after all,
CROSSING THE ALPS!!). Everyone here skis, climbs, goes hiking and wanders round
in outdoor gear. I was particularly impressed by one guy I saw riding his bike
in his ski boots through town, complete with ski’s and poles stashed expertly
along his frame!!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JlpzefXgML-b0E3_mC5Rn57AVtdtCMoDDR02DMFdwT0Id76Fp9UzHGmRrubueBP-NOyqkDcjR72JJNVOptFboPB5ZzEjrVDYyeLtgPHqXueKgbgeb0LQRmcvCBSesaE-eyZ9ACxZbSLx/s1600/IMG_8753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JlpzefXgML-b0E3_mC5Rn57AVtdtCMoDDR02DMFdwT0Id76Fp9UzHGmRrubueBP-NOyqkDcjR72JJNVOptFboPB5ZzEjrVDYyeLtgPHqXueKgbgeb0LQRmcvCBSesaE-eyZ9ACxZbSLx/s640/IMG_8753.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit more context...!</td></tr>
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From Innsbruck it was up and over Brenner Pass, the next big
push in CROSSING THE ALPS! The climb started immediately out of Innsbruck, but
we were biking on the old road, looking up at the (new?...newer) autoban which
meant we had little traffic. This is the main goods route from Italy to Austria
and the highway just seemed packed with trucks. Even the trains were pulled
carriages and carriages of trucks! 40km uphill (again, completed with
determined enthusiasm as we are CROSSING THE ALPS!) to the top of Brenner Pass –
an alpine pass, complete with a HUGE outdoor retail outlet centre. Just what
every alpine pass should have!!! (not!) ** see below for more on Brenner Pass.<o:p></o:p></div>
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From Brenner, we again had a sweet downhill (another
advantage of CROSSING THE ALPS) to Brixen, 50kms down the valley from the
border. This valley boasts a river, railway line, old road, autoban and cycle
path – often all crossing above and beneath each other, with the autoban being
almost entirely built off the ground! An impressive engineering feat – one that
is no doubt made easier by the vast numbers of people and goods which travel
along it daily.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbVE6n-Geofk0bZCtWwcpw5psY6_OYv43o8nCERZSXUsrePG2Mg5-mfnRUCtS1cwYs1hDNsNvngSlDTHbFq25l4fksS_wQi0BAWy8s5D52dwHC_dvIBmrwQL8IOvcUlZs_9NN2QnplId4p/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-13+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbVE6n-Geofk0bZCtWwcpw5psY6_OYv43o8nCERZSXUsrePG2Mg5-mfnRUCtS1cwYs1hDNsNvngSlDTHbFq25l4fksS_wQi0BAWy8s5D52dwHC_dvIBmrwQL8IOvcUlZs_9NN2QnplId4p/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-13+036.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This valley knows some infrastructure!</td></tr>
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Great to be in Italy – the first impressions was that we had
indeed CROSSED THE ALPS! It’s warmer here, people drink wine at lunchtime, there
was a jazz clarinettist in our village as well as many pizzarias and cafes.
Very cool.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Here we met Moritz and Nadja, an amazing couple who were
very generous to us – hosting us, feeding us and even setting us up with their
friends and further accommodation up the road which we so appreciated! We
really enjoyed a few days of good socialising, resting and route-planning.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZK_q1_zCGl11r5GwCCbvFeqsTbpAd1sVKB6U9rQudKJGNs4uLvu5rSPpGiCnPZbetaME3uNeXxHVm4E_IxhfSV3pHP7_bmu29lbEisE7pZbN6iSD-hfIeVDUYf6JcT3QsSWT9hjS1Ix_v/s1600/20160416_093403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZK_q1_zCGl11r5GwCCbvFeqsTbpAd1sVKB6U9rQudKJGNs4uLvu5rSPpGiCnPZbetaME3uNeXxHVm4E_IxhfSV3pHP7_bmu29lbEisE7pZbN6iSD-hfIeVDUYf6JcT3QsSWT9hjS1Ix_v/s640/20160416_093403.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great fun hanging out with Moritz, Nadja and Nevis in Brixen.</td></tr>
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Our CROSSING THE ALPS adventure continued into the Dolomites
– a UNESCO World Heritage Site which we were anticipating with great excitement!
Sure enough, it provided a few days of FANTASTIC riding – our biggest day
ascending from 1400m to 2100m twice over as we passed through the La Gardina
area. Very cool riding, despite the second pass being covered in mist and fog,
complete with hail, rain and a wind chill temperature of well below zero
(seemingly appropriate for CROSSING THE ALPS!). <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvlhVOX29jSJKl1rn6vpaFso7gyuODyOQkq_J12JG9xwElntheHIqCCP7_jV6wSz5Fogl6ocfnaye9WjrXlpqkd0Qu62ToeV-16-h_hh-uDu2m8Gaek4oAHbLMq5CjzsWcMZxUSIvc4HW/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-16+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvlhVOX29jSJKl1rn6vpaFso7gyuODyOQkq_J12JG9xwElntheHIqCCP7_jV6wSz5Fogl6ocfnaye9WjrXlpqkd0Qu62ToeV-16-h_hh-uDu2m8Gaek4oAHbLMq5CjzsWcMZxUSIvc4HW/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-16+044.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first of the Dolomite mountains to appear...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking towards Gardner Joch Pass, 2141m</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelai7DkG5mGv_RYh6EGxA2F1FqMMGvZK7c0yqkMcJsKtdPxZxuyJY1rSZ0nhFouXAwJJpMyZe5SSHisVbVjsU2V5L2x6yQZOIm0gRV4s_2RMCo2jT6ZhMf6OQy9bjAUQ5b-rcCzZ8_MJx/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelai7DkG5mGv_RYh6EGxA2F1FqMMGvZK7c0yqkMcJsKtdPxZxuyJY1rSZ0nhFouXAwJJpMyZe5SSHisVbVjsU2V5L2x6yQZOIm0gRV4s_2RMCo2jT6ZhMf6OQy9bjAUQ5b-rcCzZ8_MJx/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+056.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhhhhhh, yea!!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Zsuc4NZjsNAnPqq-wtdwpQo65xGAMWJluZloBjMwWN7hhxMsW3tbV7btuun5BPDnPsTOrMLUECMuGoOrbQVQYPXqcTqY8vEdOiD6aFDrq3d_SBJ46czccpC0Ij9kn-M9XVL6ALQ44h5M/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Zsuc4NZjsNAnPqq-wtdwpQo65xGAMWJluZloBjMwWN7hhxMsW3tbV7btuun5BPDnPsTOrMLUECMuGoOrbQVQYPXqcTqY8vEdOiD6aFDrq3d_SBJ46czccpC0Ij9kn-M9XVL6ALQ44h5M/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+115.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading towards Valparola Pass, 2168m</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0U8uItKLYVkskP2nRx6pOM8yNNAlrmRSoWdSuUPVP4h8OjkrTis2p14vhMzjo0SauOm7-CxgLoFhpnQgTCSuZl2kNRMo_N4EIifKAKtOYteD0pxCZglhyphenhyphen0ZjpGM4se37VOeu4MDfTgkR/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0U8uItKLYVkskP2nRx6pOM8yNNAlrmRSoWdSuUPVP4h8OjkrTis2p14vhMzjo0SauOm7-CxgLoFhpnQgTCSuZl2kNRMo_N4EIifKAKtOYteD0pxCZglhyphenhyphen0ZjpGM4se37VOeu4MDfTgkR/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-17+140.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brrr. Made it.</td></tr>
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Our descent into warmer climes has seen us through beautiful
valleys, past mountain lakes and onto the plains of Northern Italy which are
covered in vineyards and small towns.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP59OqrLhkP9ols5C1E9K22TGZnkE2-3AkbvM9RJj08wezWEI3f4x46p9FpRlHUiCnW3BKpEfDTRyrBAJGJtpSfQ3Z9O8rL9u3FN6j11SjpUrqxw7ribhV1Wy-eb9bCVilPx-1MeFrxWmr/s1600/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-19+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP59OqrLhkP9ols5C1E9K22TGZnkE2-3AkbvM9RJj08wezWEI3f4x46p9FpRlHUiCnW3BKpEfDTRyrBAJGJtpSfQ3Z9O8rL9u3FN6j11SjpUrqxw7ribhV1Wy-eb9bCVilPx-1MeFrxWmr/s640/Innsbruck+to+Treviso+AJM+2016-04-19+015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Vittorio from Lago di S.Croce</td></tr>
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We stopped biking 15km outside of Venice
and jumped on the train, and then a ferry to our current spot – Lido, an island
just off the coast of Venice. It has been a highlight to wander aimlessly
through the alleyways, people watch on the side of the Grand Canal and just
take in the atmosphere of such a different city!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmeu8kvvS0uHBlb9EoZYaNbktjyfYyZcpX_VkYFVm5nGkBY2ANfxmtq3JJhRSsua57IYrIte5E6ABUOVcgKpiO95TUyOb5fdkV7mfPvbiGMksLhVsdaAbbesjOb7rqwnjTIiPJs7d01Yte/s1600/IMG_8707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmeu8kvvS0uHBlb9EoZYaNbktjyfYyZcpX_VkYFVm5nGkBY2ANfxmtq3JJhRSsua57IYrIte5E6ABUOVcgKpiO95TUyOb5fdkV7mfPvbiGMksLhVsdaAbbesjOb7rqwnjTIiPJs7d01Yte/s640/IMG_8707.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gondala boats along the Grande Canal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHWHjEY9iD9EuNYaFhZGWoTv_9Aa-t8wLRli7ZIsZTaDHhAd6MFMPhW7GB0HSzDKQrCkTy8Z1YXJv1IwQPkKt7VkLZBroiQ9z8om7anq7HRtDvHs1WD92WUWcyf9HWgLnURddZCP0j0_f/s1600/IMG_8743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHWHjEY9iD9EuNYaFhZGWoTv_9Aa-t8wLRli7ZIsZTaDHhAd6MFMPhW7GB0HSzDKQrCkTy8Z1YXJv1IwQPkKt7VkLZBroiQ9z8om7anq7HRtDvHs1WD92WUWcyf9HWgLnURddZCP0j0_f/s640/IMG_8743.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late afternoon - Venice</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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<b>**Brenner Pass and Refugees:</b> Brenner Pass was (still is) the border between Austria and Italy. The only people who lived and worked here were army officials who managed the border, but as both countries opened their borders in line with the EU the town emptied out of jobs available (hence the shopping centre to bring back some income!). They are currently building a huge refugee holding centre here as from May, the border will again be controlled, the first time in 30 years. As the main “Balkans” route for refugees is closed, Italy is anticipating a huge influx of people making the treacherous crossing from Libya to Italy and then up Brenner Pass and into Austria. Austria will only accept a certain number of refugees each day so work is being undertaken to ensure there is somewhere for the overflow of refugees to stay.<br />
<br />
I find it incredible that people will make this journey, hundreds of kilometres, by foot or however they can, with little food, money and resources available to them. It is really interesting being in this part of Europe at this time as the refugee crises is a very real part of life here. Outside most supermarkets we have seen people asking for money, which seems like a hard way to get settled and sorted in a new country (although of course, many won’t be getting settled and sorted in these places and are maybe just passing through also). I have been pondering how I should respond to them in a way which is helpful, respectful and appropriate?!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xmmvdvFoMLir0ULSapmLkzjDcRDyZTtXNRxD8PLlYPy4TV2dCiiWegZ-bbwdINMnqL-hqH2Qby0Z8SEyvHeFzl42u-6wttIzbvHSHvwlRw8UoVJ8-d4rx8NOfaXhUMylDBznBX9IYAUs/s1600/IMG_8754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xmmvdvFoMLir0ULSapmLkzjDcRDyZTtXNRxD8PLlYPy4TV2dCiiWegZ-bbwdINMnqL-hqH2Qby0Z8SEyvHeFzl42u-6wttIzbvHSHvwlRw8UoVJ8-d4rx8NOfaXhUMylDBznBX9IYAUs/s640/IMG_8754.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our journey through Italy, up to now. From here we head east towards Slovenia and Croatia.</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-29213266232770808072016-04-08T07:49:00.003-07:002016-04-08T07:49:57.456-07:00Germany: The "Journey", Political Borders and the Kindness of Strangers. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Summary:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Train journey from Rotterdam to Bonn (for a night hanging with CHCH friends) and on to Tubingen, a old school university town complete with castle, cobblestone streets, gelato icecream and our amazing warm showers hosts, Sonya and Sebastian.</li>
<li>Cycled along the Neckar Valley, up to Schamberg and onto Triberg (Home of the cuckoo clocks!)</li>
<li>Spent an amazing few days cycling down past Lake Titisee and Lake Schulsee and the Alb River Valley before meeting the Rhine.</li>
<li>Followed the Rhine to Konstanz, crossing the Swiss/German border multiple times!</li>
</ul>
<br />
This week I have been pondering the freedom found in being on a journey. It has been awesome setting off each morning with our route to follow, but not knowing where we will spend the night. There has been a real sense of adventure, as we accept challenges as they arise and relish the sweet downhills that appear when we least expect them. Part of this feeling has been because we haven't actually known heaps about the route - we have stumbled (cycled) into cool old towns from the Middle Ages, come across brass band celebrations, discovered waterfalls and been surprised by towering cathedrals and scenic river valleys. It has been cool just rolling with it! I have enjoyed having no set end point and just being free to travel for as long as feels good.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp8xIoAO3feZoDvcxqITw5Clrg2LMHgLlArk3uKbd_qm40q4KvmeY_GEqshSFZ5Ad-jd8NZAs5FO4wL6xx7T4tlWS_g9rqaCNavvU8zSziAzUnPaaTzi6W49BYt6e0mVpOCbsRYAevo2w/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-05+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp8xIoAO3feZoDvcxqITw5Clrg2LMHgLlArk3uKbd_qm40q4KvmeY_GEqshSFZ5Ad-jd8NZAs5FO4wL6xx7T4tlWS_g9rqaCNavvU8zSziAzUnPaaTzi6W49BYt6e0mVpOCbsRYAevo2w/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-05+004.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navigating a wee rockfall on the road.....thankfully no OSH standards to turn us round!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjHgTAtyhybl9VG8DuRKRBpBPx8wAXBg440Gi1Yc8z3MsO_sxVl_Rv9crxqm-QERauZYgrbF9xJ7NcU3mfity7RQNf0xDg2rO6EYhTCmpU4LlyOfHJ0RR4tdIIVWiOXhl8U7PGTDxsHIwc/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-03+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjHgTAtyhybl9VG8DuRKRBpBPx8wAXBg440Gi1Yc8z3MsO_sxVl_Rv9crxqm-QERauZYgrbF9xJ7NcU3mfity7RQNf0xDg2rO6EYhTCmpU4LlyOfHJ0RR4tdIIVWiOXhl8U7PGTDxsHIwc/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-03+026.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the down...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9_tHVoYp_9f95Ljr4eoOlMSj0j-2MiQKkAipzLAdrLSjB8ISi8_y5PLQt0txAOU7Mkucr6nqY9H1WJ8fE3WouTsAU5KVYyfqXOKNBwMeWpcGTT2ESps9KAVvEBJ-hf12Sc8H2UzJi5hB/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9_tHVoYp_9f95Ljr4eoOlMSj0j-2MiQKkAipzLAdrLSjB8ISi8_y5PLQt0txAOU7Mkucr6nqY9H1WJ8fE3WouTsAU5KVYyfqXOKNBwMeWpcGTT2ESps9KAVvEBJ-hf12Sc8H2UzJi5hB/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+100.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the grand....</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgGafQVHg7BMA6RIWh6yvV456Whq5pQzJfFQIHQTyZ2FLA9D64HKP0W3Kn6bARlqniBKRehTgFNuHG5zGCcAnd0ejuMODLNUdmrmwGLexVCJvDNb4O6xy6qefW7uwXfI5DWq7eRN_Pky3/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgGafQVHg7BMA6RIWh6yvV456Whq5pQzJfFQIHQTyZ2FLA9D64HKP0W3Kn6bARlqniBKRehTgFNuHG5zGCcAnd0ejuMODLNUdmrmwGLexVCJvDNb4O6xy6qefW7uwXfI5DWq7eRN_Pky3/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+055.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying sleepy villages...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I have also been so thankful for the blessings found in the kindness of strangers! One day stood out as having particularly hard navigation - which made for slow travel. As we pulled out the map (yet again) at about 5pm, a friendly local came out of his house to help. After helping us figure out what we were looking for, he convinced us to stay and spend the night with his family. This turned out to be such a cool night - we were treated to classic German food and beer and Gerold and David (father and son), both biked with us the following morning to give us a taste of the local mountain bike routes! It was awesome being able to follow their local knowledge, which took us over snowy tops and long downhills, even up a shortcut walking track which ended up being too steep to bike. I was pretty stoked when Gerold insisted on pushing my bike (much appreciated!). It was so much fun having some friends on the bike beside us and we really enjoyed the few hours riding with them! We bid them farewell at the top of a hill and rejoined the road down through the Black Forest.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjs7-iaksFIJGYCrQ8b4gxoCeOl33oQ4AckayBNwNqIhpENfEXyVBB-8OxEzsOxZv1Iynewu7ceXEVDFfCZMdv3WVeTJCs6NExGlwapEx-vaXvHwO1lZvxOuqL-46JB7VBJZY5F7Zxiq3/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjs7-iaksFIJGYCrQ8b4gxoCeOl33oQ4AckayBNwNqIhpENfEXyVBB-8OxEzsOxZv1Iynewu7ceXEVDFfCZMdv3WVeTJCs6NExGlwapEx-vaXvHwO1lZvxOuqL-46JB7VBJZY5F7Zxiq3/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+014.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turning round after deciding snow at the bottom might equal snow at the top...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbd-ixPQi87mudO4tkShjejEWBDMOrEOWfzI9hNA-4vQGqNaTFvE0PjjTD9hBzZhBlDqGYodypL0CaF5gE5UBflzkEEMZSjhThe6Z6_jAGTqT8VPABrUhqnzlYB5YkUPdugd7COOLdj8rX/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbd-ixPQi87mudO4tkShjejEWBDMOrEOWfzI9hNA-4vQGqNaTFvE0PjjTD9hBzZhBlDqGYodypL0CaF5gE5UBflzkEEMZSjhThe6Z6_jAGTqT8VPABrUhqnzlYB5YkUPdugd7COOLdj8rX/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-04+021.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shortcut route instead...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8j_SSHWJIgIGA232MgmOdWXeokEzlS7U1fgKExCScZLL8Fk84bKvUMry_KYKJbv_ZaURdUrf8EsTEejrVegWuS_fWxHkS4LOOv-PQYYylTLBaOIUTn61ZSpOkjVwaiRy4yOVxCxjdQDXr/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-06+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8j_SSHWJIgIGA232MgmOdWXeokEzlS7U1fgKExCScZLL8Fk84bKvUMry_KYKJbv_ZaURdUrf8EsTEejrVegWuS_fWxHkS4LOOv-PQYYylTLBaOIUTn61ZSpOkjVwaiRy4yOVxCxjdQDXr/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-06+003.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Forest cycle paths</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJQJktainGMKdR1yzp72ZDooRLHycYvHfBKSsr_-OKFMw8MPvBGDH_rIOwO1spK4XQjAFxc9PTwgmo90Ib6Weml3Y8tM-hl2k4B5Fr9e3csaJT6LqL9INg8RJYIPk-spaOm0TTay1I1CMt/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_MM+2016-04-05+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJQJktainGMKdR1yzp72ZDooRLHycYvHfBKSsr_-OKFMw8MPvBGDH_rIOwO1spK4XQjAFxc9PTwgmo90Ib6Weml3Y8tM-hl2k4B5Fr9e3csaJT6LqL9INg8RJYIPk-spaOm0TTay1I1CMt/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_MM+2016-04-05+002.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising down the Alb River valley</td></tr>
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We enjoyed a few good nights camping down the Alb and Rhine River valleys and have ended up in Konstanz. Being by the Rhine was actually pretty cool - we came across Rhinefall, a huge step in the river which made for an impressive waterfall as well as Stein en Rhein, a really old town with intricate paintings on all the buildings.<br />
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It has also been interesting wondering about the borders in this part of Europe. Instead of following the Rhine, which makes for a sensible natural feature, they seem to be all over the show! We stuck to one side of the Rhine and crossed in and out of Switzerland two or three times over the course of an afternoon. Apparently, this relates back to the middle ages when Monastries held all the power and land. As people died, they would gift their land to the monastries and borders were eventually made along these lines. Politics at its best! Even the town of Konstanz has the border running through the middle of it, with food 30% cheaper on the German side of the border (but the good Swiss chocolate on the other!)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEm9x0XCz5GXhVKnh65KMgoLnCRuDMC4wIIh77gFIaWfC4x8EIdwxw8iLk116vU8mTt91ize6CFwdUJkPlv2CQyzjGcB8WPaLYPXQpHD4tr4DYzMM_XWueArm85rer9NEfxp3VKDlG2VdS/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-06+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEm9x0XCz5GXhVKnh65KMgoLnCRuDMC4wIIh77gFIaWfC4x8EIdwxw8iLk116vU8mTt91ize6CFwdUJkPlv2CQyzjGcB8WPaLYPXQpHD4tr4DYzMM_XWueArm85rer9NEfxp3VKDlG2VdS/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-06+022.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stein en Rhein village</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYf-_c-VlBkBuWUj9hXlnTaaP1RwAFqJQ6OzoyYJm3BekaIq5hiviCIlNldbVpJ5a23fQ6HgZswgi92IGaZWahjFvcJ3Vog-mtR-tWzw62Ki8paywHHaw33V3WbWVymV3fly5WDf1UYE8X/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-05+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYf-_c-VlBkBuWUj9hXlnTaaP1RwAFqJQ6OzoyYJm3BekaIq5hiviCIlNldbVpJ5a23fQ6HgZswgi92IGaZWahjFvcJ3Vog-mtR-tWzw62Ki8paywHHaw33V3WbWVymV3fly5WDf1UYE8X/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-05+025.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along the Rhine</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DIc2UoGbw05bmk5h0IS7MejiwPnFVAuCogmXlPIVHIeJY9KgUgOsp1z9PEpdquTYhcVhy-9HsHTbxBIn6a5-Qe2BsanPghb7JR2Mj0GO6FtnOY4Slv1Vp0GTl7g8yjBCD-PgTQJCAZQm/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_MM+2016-04-02+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DIc2UoGbw05bmk5h0IS7MejiwPnFVAuCogmXlPIVHIeJY9KgUgOsp1z9PEpdquTYhcVhy-9HsHTbxBIn6a5-Qe2BsanPghb7JR2Mj0GO6FtnOY4Slv1Vp0GTl7g8yjBCD-PgTQJCAZQm/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_MM+2016-04-02+006.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch - WINNING!</td></tr>
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Last night we met up with a Konstanz local (a friend of our neighbour in CHCH) who was able to give us some more inspiration for the route from here and again, we were blown away by the kindness of strangers. Gero met us, fed us and was super eager to help out, even giving our bikes a good grease and oil up before we biked off again into the night - warm, well-fed and full of ideas of the what the next week or so might look like.<br />
<br />
Konstanz has felt like a bit of a milestone - our route from here through the Alps into the Dolomites has taken some time to plan so it has been nice to spend a few days here thinking about the next phase (which will see us through Italy, Croatia and into Greece.)<br />
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Not so long ago I read that if you need to be inspired by the kindness of people again you should go cycle touring - the people we have met so far are definitely making an impression on me and I am so thankful for their kindness!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-n-vISDIJzMaaLcxgIlXyJJhG4DN7JJHpHdNpDNLrggVKsNOjhS8hFfVDEfcTtGeBXUoNrDcFy-QiZ8FeCqQT6bNtOEg601IxH0yDl_nZm8ZpVP-GwRiyKs-2rHlkLyvYRlCAEgG5J8l/s1600/IMG_2160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-n-vISDIJzMaaLcxgIlXyJJhG4DN7JJHpHdNpDNLrggVKsNOjhS8hFfVDEfcTtGeBXUoNrDcFy-QiZ8FeCqQT6bNtOEg601IxH0yDl_nZm8ZpVP-GwRiyKs-2rHlkLyvYRlCAEgG5J8l/s400/IMG_2160.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fun night route planning with Gero in Konstanz</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01rRXwYReEmCrdrUd9MlCe5Uo9tlF-6PRJ6kpMOE459wh96YKLmih5Ii-P4GsCiJkGA8XgfnQwkaFLSWX1Ka_4bLduesLHtr4tPhNs0VnMdbcZGu-k-mvi2Xs4jYLPcb3fYCn_xKWOKsk/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01rRXwYReEmCrdrUd9MlCe5Uo9tlF-6PRJ6kpMOE459wh96YKLmih5Ii-P4GsCiJkGA8XgfnQwkaFLSWX1Ka_4bLduesLHtr4tPhNs0VnMdbcZGu-k-mvi2Xs4jYLPcb3fYCn_xKWOKsk/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+007.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warm Showers Hosts - Sebastian, Maya and Sonya in Tubingen</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;">PostScript: Three Things Germany does well...</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtF7QIxJOk_Kwvxq5HPL2BJafawrEMWfLS_njg6BkDFiNoszeuCv1gozp6mHncNG2Wnxj4ElaLYT9rw-uyInlCqZ8z7v14ktoLK0vdjQUL_yC9IUIZLkED9iJ7jwJlK93ZkcS6xwGJ2XC/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtF7QIxJOk_Kwvxq5HPL2BJafawrEMWfLS_njg6BkDFiNoszeuCv1gozp6mHncNG2Wnxj4ElaLYT9rw-uyInlCqZ8z7v14ktoLK0vdjQUL_yC9IUIZLkED9iJ7jwJlK93ZkcS6xwGJ2XC/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+026.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood stacking</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOsdxopPnAYZvZyJTAGi-tYnysUhlZtuXG2rDoAXNcMhV4xp2E7M793spJizz_pfCeDU4LSrs7C-iu1FwTU3eDupv01GMGYWcVWaLR8sScxIE1ZOQUUYasv47mUbr_kdMzGjONiZW9dPd/s1600/jesus.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOsdxopPnAYZvZyJTAGi-tYnysUhlZtuXG2rDoAXNcMhV4xp2E7M793spJizz_pfCeDU4LSrs7C-iu1FwTU3eDupv01GMGYWcVWaLR8sScxIE1ZOQUUYasv47mUbr_kdMzGjONiZW9dPd/s640/jesus.JPG" width="489" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statues of Jesus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rDZxL0uWJ-rG14-9akfftGG7cJab6jU8aAg0-FyD3aUBrGESwu7xLWTkUwqjzsBHuBSCEk74vkW3gbodPsiepC9EczecJdpsfxI-5YPIXB3G4nr5zVnTZAwLbdY5x22svaCLbs_yI_Io/s1600/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rDZxL0uWJ-rG14-9akfftGG7cJab6jU8aAg0-FyD3aUBrGESwu7xLWTkUwqjzsBHuBSCEk74vkW3gbodPsiepC9EczecJdpsfxI-5YPIXB3G4nr5zVnTZAwLbdY5x22svaCLbs_yI_Io/s400/Germany_TubingentoKonstanz_AJM+2016-04-02+029.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solar Panels<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-7446978174054921462016-04-01T10:57:00.002-07:002016-04-01T10:57:51.223-07:00Netherlands - The Map<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>Maps and facts are cool:</b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Fastest ave speed (over an hour) = 30 km/hr (back wind along a dyke)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Slowest ave speed (over an hour) = 7 km/hr (terrible head wind)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Ave dist/day when cycling = 60.1km (a bit less hard core than Morroco) </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_LomOKIARnIFRgmswodsTt4IuLJRqRx0A-qJ0dmDTfHT1bEqSprLfIzdOrrvmYXoU4hl0Qca6M6qqjq92-sIkXBjqjvlfZg4BOe4wWCyIoQDPM3YsVUwP8l6mpobnkTeeDVs-eztx9-W/s1600/IMG_8562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_LomOKIARnIFRgmswodsTt4IuLJRqRx0A-qJ0dmDTfHT1bEqSprLfIzdOrrvmYXoU4hl0Qca6M6qqjq92-sIkXBjqjvlfZg4BOe4wWCyIoQDPM3YsVUwP8l6mpobnkTeeDVs-eztx9-W/s640/IMG_8562.JPG" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Netherlands Journey</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01477372948335635240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-83377123067922427502016-04-01T08:13:00.000-07:002016-04-01T08:13:03.748-07:00Cycling Paradise!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span lang="EN-NZ">Summary:</span></b></span></div>
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">We’ve spent the last 12 days in The
Netherlands</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">Have biked a further 400kms, (a small
circuit from Amsterdam-Heerhugoward-Zwolle-Apeldoorn-Utrecht-Rotterdam)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">We’ve met lots of Andy’s mum’s cousins and
their parents– an awesome bunch!</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">We’ve been stoked on Dutch sweet treats,
the cycle path network, the “gezellig” (cosy) hospitality and sharing lots of
stories from the family archives. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">From here across most of Germany by train
to the South, Austria and Northern Italy….</span></span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">After an amazing night with a Warm Showers
host family in Casablanca (Merci, Anthony & Sandra) we arrived to Amsterdam
Airport, found a quiet corner and set up our bikes. With our Moroccan train
experience (trying to get our bikes on) fresh in our mind, we ventured out into
the Dutch train system, bound for Heerhugoward where we had arranged to meet
Paul and Jany – cousins of Andy’s mum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As it turned out - the Dutch train system is awesome!! We rolled our
bikes on, got whizzed away and then just rolled them out again at the other
end. Everything we had read previous to arriving had suggested that Holland was
a fantastic place to cycle tour and it certainly has been! Sweet bike paths and
networks, which mean you hardly go on a road, easy train transfers and road
rules that favour cyclists. It’s very cool!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Mu3b6ieu0QN4t_0VHWR5YLWb-_LeW5P5f_6I87TbPtSpYrejehcBMR0bRsfzy1hcwbvSxKVLdpRQEVpkb6iV8aJLEqjuAzMvj4oRQ7aRnjszWow317ui0oQ-qDowjDXf9Xg6ureZJXUB/s1600/Bike+Paths....jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Mu3b6ieu0QN4t_0VHWR5YLWb-_LeW5P5f_6I87TbPtSpYrejehcBMR0bRsfzy1hcwbvSxKVLdpRQEVpkb6iV8aJLEqjuAzMvj4oRQ7aRnjszWow317ui0oQ-qDowjDXf9Xg6ureZJXUB/s640/Bike+Paths....jpg" width="434" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the bike paths we've travelled...</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">A real highlight of our time in Holland was
staying with Paul and Jany, Pieter and Els, Jan and Bap and Saskia – all
relatives of Andy’s mum. A huge thanks for their hospitality – it made for a
pretty special time.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">Once on the road we used the Fietsplanner
website, which was awesome – essentially you enter in your start point and end
destination and it gives you the number for each cycle path intersection you
will visit along the way. So once you have a list of the numbers, you set off
and just follow the signs! No maps, GPS or compass needed! This system only let
us down on one day, when the signs weren’t quite as well placed, but in general
it was super easy to navigate around the country and even through cities. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXORji8TYaFnLdm56zQUofY9NqVf-rjAEYm3mSZAP_d2EQbxArG35165HT1TlV0rg477lgQFPU48-0nzp3m0FtEnrId983n1MMcCK9ODzTYiV5vJQolWCMUNGux0LriBSluqhkXwv4gwGW/s1600/Great+People.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXORji8TYaFnLdm56zQUofY9NqVf-rjAEYm3mSZAP_d2EQbxArG35165HT1TlV0rg477lgQFPU48-0nzp3m0FtEnrId983n1MMcCK9ODzTYiV5vJQolWCMUNGux0LriBSluqhkXwv4gwGW/s640/Great+People.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The family!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">From Heerhugoward, we cycled around the
side of the Zuiderzee – a large lake, to the city of Zwolle. Then south to
Apeldoorn to the home of Andy’s Nanna’s sister and her husband which was a real
highlight. Both in their 80’s, we were fed a constant supply of food, stories
from their trips to NZ and old photographs. We were really grateful that Paul
joined us for the night to help translate, as it meant we really enjoyed
getting to know Jan and Bap. With our bags stuffed full of Apple Tart, biscuits
and an amazing lunch we headed off the next morning bound for Utrecht. </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">Our route took us through a national park
which was lovely, through farmland (very similar to Southland, just in
miniature) and to Utrecht, an old university town where we spent Easter Sunday.
It was incredible to spend two nights here, within a stone’s throw of the Dom –
a 13<sup>th</sup> Century Cathedral, whose bells kept us entertained all day.
Utrecht has classic canals running through it and is very picturesque – it
quickly became a favourite spot for us! </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVuuvmFYU3smTRxv2Ply2ecHUhhjSHcRVQMobPJp0PHBW-obKmKJJs5iS00Hj7iFtJcFPGiV-q7uajcRIZmPh-n2mKZFkyukZhWhm_7cFsOU-Pdm-cbLIoOvaSuB_M8Dd2VEbtn7PqTRI/s1600/the+streets....jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyVuuvmFYU3smTRxv2Ply2ecHUhhjSHcRVQMobPJp0PHBW-obKmKJJs5iS00Hj7iFtJcFPGiV-q7uajcRIZmPh-n2mKZFkyukZhWhm_7cFsOU-Pdm-cbLIoOvaSuB_M8Dd2VEbtn7PqTRI/s640/the+streets....jpg" width="410" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The classic Dutch canals...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">From here, it was 60kms into a head wind as
we headed for Rotterdam. HARD work!!! It was blow you off your bike stuff so it
was a relief to arrive into the centre of Rotterdam and know we had completed
our cycling in the Netherland and risen to the challenge!</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">The following day we left the bikes behind
and headed to Delft, a small town where Andy’s Grandad was born, and onto The
Hague, where we hit up the Binnenhof (Parliament) and the Peace Palace
(International Criminal Court). Pretty cool to see these spots, but the small
towns remained my favourite in terms of their cuteness, and general good vibes!</span></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSsEMZ1Sihp1INswuPlMjiArmcJxUMx2KXfGvoewhq1ECF_JkbauqItnGWhcZHC0vCFP7szWLvD0SRAmF8HmEUFb_Al2w_PZgKo9HrbckGR8YreyRA8ehWoPna0COhOAGZaaeT1pf7aAr/s1600/Buildings+of+the+Hague.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSsEMZ1Sihp1INswuPlMjiArmcJxUMx2KXfGvoewhq1ECF_JkbauqItnGWhcZHC0vCFP7szWLvD0SRAmF8HmEUFb_Al2w_PZgKo9HrbckGR8YreyRA8ehWoPna0COhOAGZaaeT1pf7aAr/s640/Buildings+of+the+Hague.jpg" width="612" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hague</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">And then it was onto the train, bound for
Germany. Wow, what a privilege to have had such great people to look after us
while in Holland and to be able to spend some time here. It has been
fantastic!! </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvDJyPD080E6dzwl9rif0YZUlgbnyspGGOd2P9j9rV_d0ZbrGkj4SJCX4YGewdgcAOKUn5Uttl99U7F_5vRjtIz69urc4ty7bja0vUEJAXntQgiwSrpgy-hIhdXr3UW7gUTRS7fyZtbJl/s1600/Boats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvDJyPD080E6dzwl9rif0YZUlgbnyspGGOd2P9j9rV_d0ZbrGkj4SJCX4YGewdgcAOKUn5Uttl99U7F_5vRjtIz69urc4ty7bja0vUEJAXntQgiwSrpgy-hIhdXr3UW7gUTRS7fyZtbJl/s640/Boats.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Boats (just for the Wood Whanau)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOkNvSimdjlBAyS1zZ8L8gcYqXWZfCFvvk3Io7c3zAsZigCMgoTjj6dSP0h-oTtfOrXdesdY7r5StHDI5qodfi-I8lLOi1EYDiaHswLQU0i1tjKt7lR3qVHH5dVMBQjkg0LYA_XI34yMO/s1600/A+few+of+us....jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOkNvSimdjlBAyS1zZ8L8gcYqXWZfCFvvk3Io7c3zAsZigCMgoTjj6dSP0h-oTtfOrXdesdY7r5StHDI5qodfi-I8lLOi1EYDiaHswLQU0i1tjKt7lR3qVHH5dVMBQjkg0LYA_XI34yMO/s640/A+few+of+us....jpg" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And just a few of us...!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span lang="EN-NZ">Andy’s Philosophical Musings:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Where We Live & How We Live – Have we got
it right NZ? </span></b></span><br />
</div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpkH-vRlEOYgDNdpEDHB8lPK6mRFqMTqwAYnbg_Xo8ukLIxSGMXKPOeIyjGPwwVaHoKn1vfpIRdRcIpMnCCIwg_m4Oov1VCk2L8VUc1iPsqUA_clS8pNzLFVkQK0_V41mCJAbkXl3C4Rh/s1600/Utrecht+to+Tubingen+AJM+2016-03-31+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpkH-vRlEOYgDNdpEDHB8lPK6mRFqMTqwAYnbg_Xo8ukLIxSGMXKPOeIyjGPwwVaHoKn1vfpIRdRcIpMnCCIwg_m4Oov1VCk2L8VUc1iPsqUA_clS8pNzLFVkQK0_V41mCJAbkXl3C4Rh/s320/Utrecht+to+Tubingen+AJM+2016-03-31+024.jpg" width="229" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">Our experience of the housing and layout of
the cities and towns in The Netherlands and parts of Germany we’ve been in <span style="font-family: inherit;">has </span>lead me to wonder – have we got this right in NZ? There is a lot that we’ve seen
and heard here, which seems to make a whole lot of sense here!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apartments seem to be the natural living
situations for the majority of Europeans resulting in towns and cities that are
much more compact, easy to travel across, more bike friendly, efficient and
affordable.This compares to the sprawling large-homes and fenced off sections
of Urban New Zealand towns and cities, which have comparatively high rents and
house prices, require extensive car travel and can be very inefficient.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ">From talking to people we have stayed with
in Germany we hear that there is a completely different mentality to property
ownership and renting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We understand
that this is partly due to government controls resulting in rent prices that
are considerably lower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A weeks rent in
NZ might equate to a month’s rent in Germany(even when taking post-taxed income
into account).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Property investment in
housing therefore isn’t such a lucrative option here, which leads tomuch more
affordable renting and living.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How
people live and the way they transport themselves also seem to be very positive
flow on effects of this increased density.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You can walk across the town of Bonn in less than an hour, which has a
population the size of Christchurch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Much less of the population needs to own a car, as you can easily bike
to work or your local bakery or supermarket (which are smaller and much more
common), rather than travelling to the mega super market to load up on
groceries for the week.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This has lead us to wonder, have we got our
planning and controls for urban housing, transport and renting right in
NZ?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;">AND what needs to happen to improve
or change this for the better? </span></span>Is our NZ love of stand-alone housing the way to continue, or can we embrace the humble Apartment? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Thoughts
to ponder on the road this week…</span></span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ar<span style="font-family: inherit;">o</span>hanui</span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-NZ"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A & M </span> </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="_GoBack"></a></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-48058594663285489032016-03-27T10:13:00.001-07:002016-03-27T10:13:50.058-07:00Morroco - Marrakech, Andy's Odes & Top Tips<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">
Morocco March 2016 - The Map</span></h2>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0ybgYwYsANy5u8syS5AhTodfpbQQSYDMqi7YFD8l-fbSk5qsdX0fR4NY7673rEzRBvhwS-PF7jz-sX8NCMCQ_8YDYp7LjPdryUeIYTkT_m-jeQ62VrvX8yHuXduAuVxIvQJYrq1ce4g_/s1600/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-13+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0ybgYwYsANy5u8syS5AhTodfpbQQSYDMqi7YFD8l-fbSk5qsdX0fR4NY7673rEzRBvhwS-PF7jz-sX8NCMCQ_8YDYp7LjPdryUeIYTkT_m-jeQ62VrvX8yHuXduAuVxIvQJYrq1ce4g_/s640/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-13+013.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do Geography!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Some Photos from Marrakech</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The alleys -</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> dodging donkeys, bikes, carts, motorbikes, other bikes and people -</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> the hostel (& their famous breakfasts) the Bazzar & markets - the bike sorting from their travelling boxes</span></i></div>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginpiTMaOIEdx5fXBv8S_7b8DvHdU1CEPjdkgDcaOtWBKrOvf9nlm5Ar4QEp_aewy2PFH0BzwcW1qdyDscjcqFuQLGJ238_ECRNy2G3E3aScNkVj_dNTsU93qoDMkxWdjE4py3o_j87_4y/s1600/CyclingMarrakechStreetsStillfromVid2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginpiTMaOIEdx5fXBv8S_7b8DvHdU1CEPjdkgDcaOtWBKrOvf9nlm5Ar4QEp_aewy2PFH0BzwcW1qdyDscjcqFuQLGJ238_ECRNy2G3E3aScNkVj_dNTsU93qoDMkxWdjE4py3o_j87_4y/s400/CyclingMarrakechStreetsStillfromVid2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcB2oJGba4PulP_gjlGStlyrSwmrIsQxrCjqYWKSvPunt4JwQlArZHcJ5EhrUkyE44yGS5S_hhMCQzmJ3UQzYbc9GXr3p2bwmAY_y_oMvCJEKrzXXlVNzOnMTzMlfnUK-ZW_2awSumrUK/s1600/CyclingMarrakechStreetsStillfromVid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcB2oJGba4PulP_gjlGStlyrSwmrIsQxrCjqYWKSvPunt4JwQlArZHcJ5EhrUkyE44yGS5S_hhMCQzmJ3UQzYbc9GXr3p2bwmAY_y_oMvCJEKrzXXlVNzOnMTzMlfnUK-ZW_2awSumrUK/s400/CyclingMarrakechStreetsStillfromVid.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3YMBMRQqRHZNWDCBihdpxEhrHCQ4PB6ZYKUm-sJ8dTLDcFc00LB8JWtJhD3gpeQZr_HTnoTd5sJJqqX5xEy61WGdTbyoMc_17HmeWJIn8B3zmeM8BA7P1oJkKY8QIX3TMX8p9JVINVj2/s1600/MorrocoAJM+2016-03-04+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3YMBMRQqRHZNWDCBihdpxEhrHCQ4PB6ZYKUm-sJ8dTLDcFc00LB8JWtJhD3gpeQZr_HTnoTd5sJJqqX5xEy61WGdTbyoMc_17HmeWJIn8B3zmeM8BA7P1oJkKY8QIX3TMX8p9JVINVj2/s400/MorrocoAJM+2016-03-04+017.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Supplementary Section - Andy's Odes </b></span></h2>
<i style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">(Musings that are sometimes poetic and sometimes not)</span></i><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Ode to the Sac Plastique (Plastic Bag)</span></b><br />
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You are light</div>
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You are convenient<o:p></o:p></div>
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So easily disposed<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sac Plastique<o:p></o:p></div>
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Caught on the many brambles<o:p></o:p></div>
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Caught in the sandy hollows<o:p></o:p></div>
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Kilometer after kilometer<o:p></o:p></div>
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Into the distance<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sac Plastique<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p> </div>
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You cover the barren lands<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the Entry<o:p></o:p></div>
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At most Villages and Towns<o:p></o:p></div>
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Oh Sac Plastique<o:p></o:p></div>
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In Blue<o:p></o:p></div>
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In White<o:p></o:p></div>
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What would these roads look like if it wasn’t for the</div>
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Sac Plastique?</div>
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What could we do </div>
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The</div>
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Sac Plastique?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhugiWlWexgkaxx2CDl6A4_Sv1wxvtMzJN42zCAp3xQSb9__RJf33jOQK4hSb8k68IiFejTLajk19vASOG4o3kSbBcw_R8smOepQ4qwVr8e7egqn8YsNW-fOTzVg2rkrzuwt-AL_OXNewpF/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-13+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhugiWlWexgkaxx2CDl6A4_Sv1wxvtMzJN42zCAp3xQSb9__RJf33jOQK4hSb8k68IiFejTLajk19vASOG4o3kSbBcw_R8smOepQ4qwVr8e7egqn8YsNW-fOTzVg2rkrzuwt-AL_OXNewpF/s400/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-13+001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;">Caution: The following section contains a few quick tips
specifically for Cycle Touring</span></h3>
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<h4>
<span style="color: red;"><b>– Do not read:</b> if you’re after a good story accompanying a good beverage </span><span style="color: red;"><b>– Do read: </b>if you’re thinking of going Cycle
Touring in Morroco</span></h4>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Top Tips with Andy –
Cycle Touring in Morroco</span></b></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNfQGmJpv3CcAanWQZDf-24iUL2Wq2E7yv65uhZAJaji528soyY-gga406WfH0sf_P7Tx5JyIu-2ZBAyjQeVMJ5h4iLsVAACAwuWTST-SIvJzJ7apSGZ0JUUaFkUCGazoOL2VaiMiZtdb/s1600/MorrocoAJM+2016-03-03+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNfQGmJpv3CcAanWQZDf-24iUL2Wq2E7yv65uhZAJaji528soyY-gga406WfH0sf_P7Tx5JyIu-2ZBAyjQeVMJ5h4iLsVAACAwuWTST-SIvJzJ7apSGZ0JUUaFkUCGazoOL2VaiMiZtdb/s320/MorrocoAJM+2016-03-03+015.jpg" width="320" /></a>
<li><b>Don’t bother with
trains & bike boxes/bikes in Morroco – use the CTM busses. </b>(We tried & after the ticket guy telling us it was fine
we were stopped at the door & then spent the next hour getting different
answers on luggage, lugging our bike boxes around & getting the tickets
refunded)</li>
<li><b>Buses: </b>Be specific about going to the CTM Bus
Depot, rather than the Gare Routiere (We ended up at the Gare Routiere on the Taxi, despite
thinking we’d emphasised the CTM sufficiently well. This was a completely different experience to
CTM. The Gare Routiere is a local station, crowded, loud, very busy and sometimes daunting!)</li>
<li><b>Knowing French is a
really good time in Morroco</b> – Some people known a little English, but
everyone seems to know French.</li>
<li><b>Flying into
Morroco: </b>If starting in Marrakech fly
directly in / out of Marrakesh airport if possible to save a day of travel
logistics etc. We had to fly into Casablanca with Emirates, but could have flown out to Holland with Air Maroc
from Marrakech.</li>
<li><b>Bike boxes with Air
Maroc – </b>NB: They cost about 550D ($80NZD) each with these guys – so factor that it.
You will need to pay this when checking in.</li>
<li><b>The Moroccan
Expectation of Payment: </b>Always be
cautious with offers of help with baggage!
Only ask for help from women or shop keepers re directions. Agree on prices of taxis etc & write it
down on paper to avoid any uncertainty.<br />Accepting an offer of help:<b> </b>If someone does offer to
help and you accept have a clear start/end point to the help, even if they seem
genuine & want to help you buy your tickets etc…. They often are after some
extra coin & will try and sell you a sob story to get some. 10 D seemed to be the min accepted here.</li>
<li><b>Toilets: </b>Most times you could use a local café or
petrol station toilet for free if you asked.
Keep some 1 D coins on you for the bus toilet areas etc</li>
<li><b>Cooker Fuels: </b>Don’t rely on gas or other cooker
fuels. Petrol seemed to be the only
solution or we did find some puncture only gas cartridges at some supermarkets.</li>
<li><b>Finding Bike Boxes in
Morroco: </b>Bike boxes are apparently a
real pain to find in Casa – leave yours somewhere if you can. We understand a lot of bikes are arriving in
plastic bags now.</li>
<li><b>Clothing & Sleeping Bags in Feb/March</b>– It can be really cold in March – we’d suggest
taking your good winter bags for this end of the season and warm clothes.</li>
<li><b>Tenting</b>: 40-50D ($10 NZD, 2016) seemed to be fairly standards
at campgrounds fr two people and a tent, with 10D sometimes for a shower and most places having WiFi.</li>
<li><b>Food</b>: We found couscous/veges and either Tuna or
eggs the best meal options for quick and nutritious. Dates & almonds from the markets were a
winner (especially if you’re prepared to buy a 1kg packet of dates (25D). Rolled oats from the Supi with yoghurt was a
good change from bread.</li>
<li><b>Advice:</b> Ask a number of people something, don’t
always rely on one piece of advice (like the time Yousef told us there was a
really good link road from near his guesthouse to where we were going & there
definitely wasn’t)</li>
<li><b>Ave Spending: </b>For us in 2016 = 240D/Day = $36 NZD for
both of us (Nb: including mixture of tenting (80%) and hostels, cooking for
ourselves 70% of the time and including taxis at either end/buses/hostel at
Marrakech at either end)</li>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-10125517599671027072016-03-19T03:21:00.000-07:002016-03-19T03:21:32.373-07:00Morocco: The Gorges and the Desert<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Cycling in Morocco - The Summary:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -18pt;">
</div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">-</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">728kms biked from Marrakech to Merzouga</span></li>
<ul>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">via Tizi-n-ticka pass, Telouet, Dades and Todra Gorges and the N12
highway</span></li>
</ul>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">-</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Longest Day: 130kms</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">-</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;"> </span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Shortest Day: 3kms</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">-</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;">
</span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Highlights: Rest days, homestays and a trip into
the desert dunes to see sunset/sunrise</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">-</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; text-indent: -18pt;">
</span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Lowlights: Battling ongoing sore knees and the
odd head wind challenge</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfKFyqhvIxcELZxIpDLkrKOpme78-5LUYdfZnZoAYUYCvv6hKf9Ggx5j69Vf5NbmmlJP1MllkHsZ34Xi7BuLhytN7FyOtYBCf_Gezyl1RiylLcZ-6ygSLYqZplVAN8L1qdqo5ZQ8ftxyoA/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfKFyqhvIxcELZxIpDLkrKOpme78-5LUYdfZnZoAYUYCvv6hKf9Ggx5j69Vf5NbmmlJP1MllkHsZ34Xi7BuLhytN7FyOtYBCf_Gezyl1RiylLcZ-6ygSLYqZplVAN8L1qdqo5ZQ8ftxyoA/s400/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+019.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patte des Singe campground up the Dades Gorge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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After a 13 hour “sleeper” bus, we are back amongst the
bustling, bursting streets and alleyways of Marrakech. It was only two weeks
ago that we were here last, but our confidence with biking round and navigating
the busy medina has sky-rocketed and we are much more comfortable navigating
the busy traffic on loaded bikes.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The last week has been, quite simply, awesome! We spent 2
nights in a family-run campground up the Dades Gorge where we were able to rest
and enjoy some good company. We discovered the joy of riding un-laden bikes for
day trips, so made the most of rest days to do some local exploring on much
lighter and speedier bikes!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKbrnwdBRdGCdzRIRvvvuoFzP6x1DuQvCKYl9LSbLNH4N_W5MqAjaPdgf71waIZGXuoIGtCSUQn88ZRuBFi3GBZRIbZw2eEY1Y9DkeTu2KAoHkm9SwPUx4ueXSJunUOu2Jrzz2XGHTOcB/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKbrnwdBRdGCdzRIRvvvuoFzP6x1DuQvCKYl9LSbLNH4N_W5MqAjaPdgf71waIZGXuoIGtCSUQn88ZRuBFi3GBZRIbZw2eEY1Y9DkeTu2KAoHkm9SwPUx4ueXSJunUOu2Jrzz2XGHTOcB/s400/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+010.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding up the Dades Gorge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyNE_0Pg-xxyU4Q8wqhkX0UxDlnBmDs14ZR6lTQi81CH9UEbnunxw1v7TvURAaDz2jUH5MJVxNmE9R0SGH9HTUO4HKHz8-Veqd7MfHkTlJrwUNyY1VRQASRIwK4X7TNiVS-wWSc5pKWCz/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyNE_0Pg-xxyU4Q8wqhkX0UxDlnBmDs14ZR6lTQi81CH9UEbnunxw1v7TvURAaDz2jUH5MJVxNmE9R0SGH9HTUO4HKHz8-Veqd7MfHkTlJrwUNyY1VRQASRIwK4X7TNiVS-wWSc5pKWCz/s320/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+016.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying an early morning excursion!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFXoI_V4gd_ke63OwPFLJkHTU_CS6lKl9zYd9HJs3nqtYEHlKozlyE3HOxWFtWMEgxJXboij-T7jJZlgXg07sjFELpdRJn_ILo_m33lOTzEEORUQ5ANLTkacwGRa8qoUYbHgoLMO6aiMw/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFXoI_V4gd_ke63OwPFLJkHTU_CS6lKl9zYd9HJs3nqtYEHlKozlyE3HOxWFtWMEgxJXboij-T7jJZlgXg07sjFELpdRJn_ILo_m33lOTzEEORUQ5ANLTkacwGRa8qoUYbHgoLMO6aiMw/s320/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-11+017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_9PrAAT44lvrDsYVSvjX9BfFq-yVpyFuRUtsbB0d0jGlxP-BcF4a9Qrijba2zhqDwHmudNjdw9kYcItjqNnhBj3Joi_h6E1NlUZALDk_7wOUEN3fBcfy-WxF8n5PIUkZw63v7LIqinwv/s1600/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-12+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_9PrAAT44lvrDsYVSvjX9BfFq-yVpyFuRUtsbB0d0jGlxP-BcF4a9Qrijba2zhqDwHmudNjdw9kYcItjqNnhBj3Joi_h6E1NlUZALDk_7wOUEN3fBcfy-WxF8n5PIUkZw63v7LIqinwv/s400/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-12+008.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy entering the Todra Gorge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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After a grueling ride into a strong headwind, and another
quiet day trip following, we rode on again towards the desert. There had been
some choice regarding our route, however a friendly Moroccan tour guide
convinced us to travel the N12 (National), a route he assured us was free from
traffic and “just like Botswana and Kenya” – desert and acacia trees! So we
followed his advice and headed for the desert!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnepdXy_0mjzZJCbZjcpvqf5WO19o776jH6mfBOdjo0rGycF6llKSKWIps7hkO1a8VazEcWdkndDt9DWxLuqrUWGb9idk3WtZkX6iKk5er_cvmdM2J-cgRtjC_w66NhTlN6LJeF83KmtRE/s1600/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-12+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnepdXy_0mjzZJCbZjcpvqf5WO19o776jH6mfBOdjo0rGycF6llKSKWIps7hkO1a8VazEcWdkndDt9DWxLuqrUWGb9idk3WtZkX6iKk5er_cvmdM2J-cgRtjC_w66NhTlN6LJeF83KmtRE/s400/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-12+012.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from above the town of Tinghir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8hHBAU6VihBG7_zegQ5mlGutClwKlrLABfSQPDLmO7v6WTdnh2YES9_BE7aLIzwlTQhMNiUSbgpxbA0XBvhhmic9NZ1qDx32TS11yOO8lMQ0CBlUdPiXVhNTcVJfsGB7GoVkxpwdO1YT/s1600/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-13+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8hHBAU6VihBG7_zegQ5mlGutClwKlrLABfSQPDLmO7v6WTdnh2YES9_BE7aLIzwlTQhMNiUSbgpxbA0XBvhhmic9NZ1qDx32TS11yOO8lMQ0CBlUdPiXVhNTcVJfsGB7GoVkxpwdO1YT/s400/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-13+003.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road towards Alnif and the N12</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1frHIIdzwslAIrMg48o_YspjPJVePkTy7Kcm9jEU8Jyyq2bn_Mv-zhH_lID_zSUDlNREPxkPE5bjYUKAdKO0HVhastrYNthOYQ8BV16OHrD-uvwT9NN_yoNVdLvTmCR7eRnscCSb6x9XH/s1600/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-14+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1frHIIdzwslAIrMg48o_YspjPJVePkTy7Kcm9jEU8Jyyq2bn_Mv-zhH_lID_zSUDlNREPxkPE5bjYUKAdKO0HVhastrYNthOYQ8BV16OHrD-uvwT9NN_yoNVdLvTmCR7eRnscCSb6x9XH/s400/Morroco+DadestoMazurga+MW+2016-03-14+015.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting closer to the desert</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At our finishing
point for the day we located a café for a cup of tea and Andy asked about the
possibility of camping. 5 mins later Mbark turned up on a motorbike, ready to
escort us to his Cafe & house for the evening. What a stroke of luck this chance
meeting turned out to be! Mbark and his family were so hospitable, insisting on
feeding us both dinner and breakfast, despite our protests about being
self-sufficient. After dinner, again, they insisted that they be allowed to
dress us up in traditional Berber outfits – usually used for weddings and the
like. The whole family seemed to get immense joy out of this and the obligatory
photo shoot lasted a while! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Festivities continued with Andy learning Arabic
numbers from Grandpa (who had no English), while Grandma looked on approvingly
as I convinced some of the daughters to do some colouring in with me. Talk
turned to religion and politics and it was cool to have the chance to have a
chat about some of these big issues with Mbark. The next morning, we were
refused our offer of paying for breakfast, but we managed to leave some food
behind for the family as a way of saying thanks, which they accepted. We biked
off with full hearts, feeling thankful for a lovely evening with easy hosts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn01UqqcbkOBLGQhGxk9yxWXNyckZfHeQQVqsCAvT0Xepa77meu9hFFeJlTYa0IxfUVcJRGCp_WgF_kFQupSivL4ZRUc8rdo6VT0gmS1cnU2GOS5WGyNect3nQQirBuuoGjC9F6Y2nLb-6/s1600/20160313_182634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn01UqqcbkOBLGQhGxk9yxWXNyckZfHeQQVqsCAvT0Xepa77meu9hFFeJlTYa0IxfUVcJRGCp_WgF_kFQupSivL4ZRUc8rdo6VT0gmS1cnU2GOS5WGyNect3nQQirBuuoGjC9F6Y2nLb-6/s320/20160313_182634.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chillin' with the family</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH4ZtVTYv8f8XwO427sd-1isY26Lf2reWoztwhutlOY8EaoDZS12dyoqQIu0mgVLukUCtBot1QzoJPAiJwxB2FKmq8IKblM-2EQjfoiOcqDmQTFYyaEldl4ydaHBeUWoOZxQ9ZcT_J1rYI/s1600/20160313_184454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH4ZtVTYv8f8XwO427sd-1isY26Lf2reWoztwhutlOY8EaoDZS12dyoqQIu0mgVLukUCtBot1QzoJPAiJwxB2FKmq8IKblM-2EQjfoiOcqDmQTFYyaEldl4ydaHBeUWoOZxQ9ZcT_J1rYI/s320/20160313_184454.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The obligatory photo shoot! A very serious occasion!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We bypassed Rissani (our planned overnight stop) as it
seemed like a very industrial, harsh little town but a bit of a weird vibe.
Despite a local guy trying to convince us to spend the night (“In the morning
there will be 300 donkeys outside your window!! Tomorrow, is donkey day. Many
donkeys!”), the lure of the desert just 40kms away spurred us on and we set out
to find a nicer spot to camp.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYh6O9ajZx7y_jhT1_kO15u1BIqVusZJLFln3RDxZB8baO6IyO5zlWhT8e5SuoJnRakXLSN7Hw7pPffKUf79i6-nkw0XcMwvewWlJSp5FqPaN10M6NezJzSCLGlBABqw__Ro4yWBpGf474/s1600/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-14+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYh6O9ajZx7y_jhT1_kO15u1BIqVusZJLFln3RDxZB8baO6IyO5zlWhT8e5SuoJnRakXLSN7Hw7pPffKUf79i6-nkw0XcMwvewWlJSp5FqPaN10M6NezJzSCLGlBABqw__Ro4yWBpGf474/s400/Morocco+DadestoMazurga+AM+2016-03-14+048.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pedalling into a head wind during the final 40km to Merzouga</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
It was incredible to be cycling out across the plains with
the desert dunes looming closer and closer. It felt empty and a bit wild. The
hot, dehydrating wind sapped our energy, but the promise of our finishing point kept
us pushing forwards. As we rolled into town, we were accosted by the usual
hostel/campground manager trying to draw us to their small patch of desert. We
followed Hassan after his promises of hot showers, a sheltered camping spot and
good tea! As the sun set, we were cooking a well-deserved meal, gazing over at
the mighty dunes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The Sahara ....</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We decided to be touristy and signed up for a camel trek – a
wander into the middle of this dune system via camel train where we spent the night in a
traditional berber tent, watching the sunset, having an epic feed, bonfire,
drumming and up for sunrise the next morning. We really enjoyed being with
other people and the conversation and mingling with a wide range of people that
we haven’t had much of. Everyone was full of anticipation on the ride in, but I
particularly enjoyed the ride out, where everyone naturally spent the time in
silence appreciating the surroundings. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhkEQ0Y_5OgtcqXUlhv-br5UmmJZCeBPRqp4ckc6gZDNnaBoOzNB0iJVBvENB5Vc23k0zwHrWVE8vyJuz4YX0tnAwjmrvT7zFC2s9yYpVGoX33vzsobKb8FQEh2w0xV8Zf2H3s3LT2u5b/s1600/IMG_8460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhkEQ0Y_5OgtcqXUlhv-br5UmmJZCeBPRqp4ckc6gZDNnaBoOzNB0iJVBvENB5Vc23k0zwHrWVE8vyJuz4YX0tnAwjmrvT7zFC2s9yYpVGoX33vzsobKb8FQEh2w0xV8Zf2H3s3LT2u5b/s320/IMG_8460.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And then here we are - the bikes are back in their
boxes and tomorrow we are catching a train back to Casablanca, where we spend
the night with a Warm Showers host (couch surfing equivalent for cycle
tourers), before flying onto Amsterdam to start the European leg. We are really
excited about the chance to meet some of Andy’s relatives, but are a little
nervous about the weather and how satisfactory our gear will be warmth wise!!
We’ll update you next time!!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div>
Arohanui,</div>
<div>
Miri (& Andy)</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-59324550019305191642016-03-10T03:21:00.000-08:002016-03-10T04:09:05.979-08:00Assalam Aleikum! Azul! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"></span><br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">I am being bumped along in the back of a minivan, looking
out towards the front windscreen with about 15 women in headscarves in front of
me, several men squashed into the boot behind me, a roof full of bikes,
panniers, baskets market-bound and an assortment of other bags. It is a van
full of all ages, 2 babies, there’s friendly Arabic and Berber banter going on
between the customers and the driver – the customers demanding a ‘direct’ route
to market, and the driver continually stopping for yet another passenger. The
music is pumping – it’s happy days!</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">We’ve just biked 30km up a stunning valley following the
advice of Yousef, a man who welcomed us to pitch our tent on the roof of his
guesthouse. One week in, the kilometres still feel hard-won, and we are proud
of distances covered over the undulating hills and gorges. Both of us are
suffering from sore knees – me especially, so we are trying not to overdo it,
or bike further than what is necessary.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">It is with laughable frustration, that after being ripped off a bit by
Yousef this morning when it came to paying for his hospitality, we now find
ourselves at the turn off to a road which he assured us was “a very good plan
for you and your bicycle”, which in fact is a very rough, steep, bumpy road. A
man on a donkey, who only speaks Berber and some French, conveys that it is
indeed a bumpy, gravel road for 14 km – further than what we have the energy to
push if it came to it. There would be no rescue, no water, and no friendly
locals on this road. So, embracing the outcome of our time with Yousef, we
resign ourselves to a new Moroccan experience – the minivan!</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">As we whiz back along the road we have just biked, I am
actually pretty content. We had some amazing late evening and early morning
light, a quiet road with little traffic, and we are now a bit wiser in the ways
of Morocco!!</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Back on track, we set out again, this time up the Gorge du
Dades – a river valley which is famous for its stunning rock formations. We have
settled into a campground run by a family – the youngest girl, Fatima is able
to speak some English which makes life a little easier. As I write this, she is
enjoying my colouring book (a late purchase from Auckland Airport) and the few
colouring pencils I have with me. We are pretty excited about spending a day or
two here, recovering, slowing down, and letting my knee recover somewhat. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">The road here has been hugely varied – we left Marrakach,
with nervous anticipation as we settled into life on the bike. Our first two
days led us over the Atlas Mountains and Tizi’n’chika pass – a road resembling
a NZ ski road winding its way up and over the mountains. Almost every car that
passed up tooted, flashed their lights, yelled out “Bonjour, ca va?!” or mimed
encouragement which was appreciated as we wound our way up and over. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSapgRnzfIZBNkkdtmLela9N0nHErBUS9Skx04QspWua27LSMdJc_oYKYBOFX7Ieb9ih3gpU9tck4t9JJ-IqlPk6DzNSZrZsAVpAFFtA0hcnuxLMrTr0OF19o_jX2NcF1KG6jeepzVNCW3/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-05+011+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSapgRnzfIZBNkkdtmLela9N0nHErBUS9Skx04QspWua27LSMdJc_oYKYBOFX7Ieb9ih3gpU9tck4t9JJ-IqlPk6DzNSZrZsAVpAFFtA0hcnuxLMrTr0OF19o_jX2NcF1KG6jeepzVNCW3/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-05+011+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fir covered slopes starting to wind up the Atlas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAQO8QmJTTM8eyhnX2JyXJ9ZmlO-EG4Adn56NLNVGiY_gsth6zHQSmEboIDxhbeGXbhQaTKww1rVWbd2CgvV4ea_X5LXGhGVg5BwGE0nGv964LXwnkrJBXrzRKb6ehUv81laxUmaqa2sm/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAQO8QmJTTM8eyhnX2JyXJ9ZmlO-EG4Adn56NLNVGiY_gsth6zHQSmEboIDxhbeGXbhQaTKww1rVWbd2CgvV4ea_X5LXGhGVg5BwGE0nGv964LXwnkrJBXrzRKb6ehUv81laxUmaqa2sm/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+048.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miri cranking up to the top of the pass over the Atlas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQeavsGyXhIa-cDR3baPM6hOxey6PTkCWZLAo9-kVlv3m0lDEsPFN4dTulMZfC5A5XH4zBt9BPrbvbYLwz66SJv3Einm0QOaE3r5Fm3Tx_YVFPThIuDo1dyAM9jZC1PuiDuRiXuio8zKJ-/s1600/Morocco+MM+toDades+2015-03-08+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQeavsGyXhIa-cDR3baPM6hOxey6PTkCWZLAo9-kVlv3m0lDEsPFN4dTulMZfC5A5XH4zBt9BPrbvbYLwz66SJv3Einm0QOaE3r5Fm3Tx_YVFPThIuDo1dyAM9jZC1PuiDuRiXuio8zKJ-/s320/Morocco+MM+toDades+2015-03-08+023.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going past one of the many red-mud-stone villages carved into the sides of the gorge</td></tr>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">That second night we found ourselves in the middle of
nowhere as dusk fell, so decided it was as good a time as any to test out the
wild camping experience! After a slight freak out that we would be moved on in
the night by a group of local nomadics, we settled in for a freezing, tent-flapping
windy night – an average first camping experience (sleep-wise) albeit a
stunning wakeup location in the morn! We biked off; hopeful our bodies, the
camping and the weather would improve. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">For several hours we biked through a stunning gorge – the red
outcrops of rocky strata visible high above the river below. We passed
seemingly empty villages – unsure whether they were in fact uninhabited, or
whether everyone was sleeping, gardening or someplace else. We tried asking for
some tea at what was maybe a school, however, with no language in common and
even our attempted Arabic, left both parties confused and wondering who the
heck the other one was! We carried on, reflecting that we must look so strange
with our bright orange and yellow paniers whizzing by.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">With some more asking, we were pointed in the
direction of a café, which I wonder whether it was actually a house. We were
invited in, given tea and bread by a young girl, who then refused payment of
any sort. We shared some biscuits as a way of saying thanks, which she
accepted. </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Ahh, this is the famed Berber
hospitality we’d heard of.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">We then arrived at Ait-Ben-Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage
site which was crawling with European campervans. It was a shock after being
alone on the road for a few days. As we slowly biked through town a friendly
berber man called out in English “Ah, you are looking for my hotel I think?”
That was welcome enough for us, so after some negotiation we settled in for the
night, and on his advice, set off to wander around the ancient village at first
light – a special time of day to be alone in a ruined city, wondering about the
people who have lived here in centuries gone by, the spices and goods they may
have traded and wondering what bought the end of its era – presumably
electricity, tourism and new roads. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Our second camping experience was no better than the first!
This time in a municipal campground in Ourzazate (essentially a parking lot for
campervans).</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">We pitched the tent in a
howling wind, and soon discovered the mesh that makes up part of the tent inner
is a terrible idea for camping in a windy, sandy environment. Within minutes, a
thin film of sand was covering everything – eyelids included! I had a “woe is
me” moment and we decided against a rest day here as planned and headed out
early the next morning, bound for somewhere better. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNAKuJEK5DO05-UwURG3VAXdm6GeAqSWCDuxavSBTUwhNa0QZiJFEwws4BROSnUjDDmSlyMdaS9-9JF2XgWgUtSuGR3OGuVjpcYe6AX0uh5LldvBsDt9XpXKNn2CwZ9-srOBNy9OWl4JI/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNAKuJEK5DO05-UwURG3VAXdm6GeAqSWCDuxavSBTUwhNa0QZiJFEwws4BROSnUjDDmSlyMdaS9-9JF2XgWgUtSuGR3OGuVjpcYe6AX0uh5LldvBsDt9XpXKNn2CwZ9-srOBNy9OWl4JI/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+103.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De Lux breakfast after a sleepless night with Omelette, bread and the Moroccan Mint Tea</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiu3KpLCGqFvNvViyUTd09y-NKcOynf9_S65UlfJGMQdiThLcx8IzSSX7IacmKUOLbWb8n6nZ2ck09P8uZ204Uo28cfG1rRr2uDmGYnphj-hmF7ovkmQYlv5JiKMMm2myW4661XySj5hCa/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-07+049+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiu3KpLCGqFvNvViyUTd09y-NKcOynf9_S65UlfJGMQdiThLcx8IzSSX7IacmKUOLbWb8n6nZ2ck09P8uZ204Uo28cfG1rRr2uDmGYnphj-hmF7ovkmQYlv5JiKMMm2myW4661XySj5hCa/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-07+049+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic village across the Gorge with the contrasting vivid green against the baran red landscape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaI_6UJg00Avx5c3XD2LoaCT-eaH4bI3pqCVwYJPOdBTlqISPaoZ2gDTZyzfQLWFAOqtNITf5rNWqYZgk-T66FLNop5r-cEj9lg7bZ-VWpwctaR6myhaW6fFZnPiusERmHO9kHG9TeFhAQ/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-08+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaI_6UJg00Avx5c3XD2LoaCT-eaH4bI3pqCVwYJPOdBTlqISPaoZ2gDTZyzfQLWFAOqtNITf5rNWqYZgk-T66FLNop5r-cEj9lg7bZ-VWpwctaR6myhaW6fFZnPiusERmHO9kHG9TeFhAQ/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-08+004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travelling on the sweet, newly asphalted roads adjoining the more arid valley landscape en Route to the start of the Dades</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCguqMHGHIof6gS6-QhcH0WhYnIEM3FQuZIYbxrnzupXpwh8tvTy60P78qPpLcuDQb1fn0P_-A1F5yY9f1yn5uwmQ4QT5enmTT8b67Wm9JDemHIfIvuzshLeIzCmmkOG5Y9Jke6TJFFCQV/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-09+030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCguqMHGHIof6gS6-QhcH0WhYnIEM3FQuZIYbxrnzupXpwh8tvTy60P78qPpLcuDQb1fn0P_-A1F5yY9f1yn5uwmQ4QT5enmTT8b67Wm9JDemHIfIvuzshLeIzCmmkOG5Y9Jke6TJFFCQV/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-09+030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPnDntpTbv2qlyn3JJBEnuOJtTda4LEBLs-rB4z4m-vnrL3e2gwRNiHE8-VMiuAZFQpDR28CGuRHCiwBM16_Y7up94PhWi2wxX2BBxo-QpUVQqapf68CIy2qVOXDr56djWL5z6fSWWhVd_/s1600/Morocco+MM+toDades+2015-03-08+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPnDntpTbv2qlyn3JJBEnuOJtTda4LEBLs-rB4z4m-vnrL3e2gwRNiHE8-VMiuAZFQpDR28CGuRHCiwBM16_Y7up94PhWi2wxX2BBxo-QpUVQqapf68CIy2qVOXDr56djWL5z6fSWWhVd_/s320/Morocco+MM+toDades+2015-03-08+046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-aIGWuaWlJGyaQgF3_CJurnO1o5zEfu_lr-9O4HfHXgVnI6vUnrxl8nVDGp9VqsgRw43sHdesZ7bsN-fF7sIAJRtt2n58vir4eJwBAqxqeauqcXy4qHSq7nhcU6f018_XefOazKloU-J0/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-aIGWuaWlJGyaQgF3_CJurnO1o5zEfu_lr-9O4HfHXgVnI6vUnrxl8nVDGp9VqsgRw43sHdesZ7bsN-fF7sIAJRtt2n58vir4eJwBAqxqeauqcXy4qHSq7nhcU6f018_XefOazKloU-J0/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0-jP6ggl2cusyallcuPW6wN1ZTDnUZrAEVKXQny3ensnyNQfoyn1jlWGNm_1J9QOcL90_E_aVUKIRHb_7_rT_cbz1HfNHuFlkRlEHPONJZeH7sYY2ry4dDU9rhyePez_g0xSAP61BXLK/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0-jP6ggl2cusyallcuPW6wN1ZTDnUZrAEVKXQny3ensnyNQfoyn1jlWGNm_1J9QOcL90_E_aVUKIRHb_7_rT_cbz1HfNHuFlkRlEHPONJZeH7sYY2ry4dDU9rhyePez_g0xSAP61BXLK/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+076.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tent site night 1</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLRQHfZMCr1hVXuH2RUL4SJo-WYoYCqxpGod3GyislEgooVdNMJ6svp7iF7owu4qN_wpi1u0GrKO1O9jZ4iZwY4vDEg3pobc3ReEDx0TXkAfKRxGAGi7BKFEgsbHZAuiYv1EEBglu7W4s/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLRQHfZMCr1hVXuH2RUL4SJo-WYoYCqxpGod3GyislEgooVdNMJ6svp7iF7owu4qN_wpi1u0GrKO1O9jZ4iZwY4vDEg3pobc3ReEDx0TXkAfKRxGAGi7BKFEgsbHZAuiYv1EEBglu7W4s/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+085.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJpi6JtMn1Xopith4AklTneYpDYdHAqtaxC2TRUEFeg_kyL7N6x9BusYTluIdPiVg0T9fwi_4vaILvUC7rxv2CbyyrMk491ejFBC8eZ5RnsLA1wrYRvh3nyBi9oB8CLKRO1Dun44cEvH7I/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJpi6JtMn1Xopith4AklTneYpDYdHAqtaxC2TRUEFeg_kyL7N6x9BusYTluIdPiVg0T9fwi_4vaILvUC7rxv2CbyyrMk491ejFBC8eZ5RnsLA1wrYRvh3nyBi9oB8CLKRO1Dun44cEvH7I/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-06+094.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">And so, here we are, finally resting after a very full first
week of new experiences, new landscapes, language challenges and interesting
interactions with locals and tourists alike. This truly is a fascinating
country in terms of cultures mixing, ancient traditions, Arabic culture and a
developing tourism sector. It would be immensely helpful to be able to speak
French here. </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">We have found great
satisfaction in simply finding and buying food and negotiating a place to
stay!</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Bissalama (Goodbye)</span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Miri (& Andy)</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIv0t5pROokzx5ZeogKUYDxBs9wROzmXJIzuIYq9a7rgA_YaFNudlkExwkY8KNfoI0l_724lW0JSyZtWS5USdbCJRbrMa71EvHDOQa4JIT8I4DZ5V10oIAcsQ11VfM_TMd7-VFTKQksZKU/s1600/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-09+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIv0t5pROokzx5ZeogKUYDxBs9wROzmXJIzuIYq9a7rgA_YaFNudlkExwkY8KNfoI0l_724lW0JSyZtWS5USdbCJRbrMa71EvHDOQa4JIT8I4DZ5V10oIAcsQ11VfM_TMd7-VFTKQksZKU/s320/Morroco+AJM+BenHadootoDades+2016-03-09+023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-32934262424297810362016-02-28T18:35:00.001-08:002016-02-28T18:35:36.557-08:00Ka kite ano te whanau o Aotearoa!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's Thursday night, 10.30pm and we are wandering the streets of Hoon Hay, Christchurch. We are on the countdown to leaving (12 hours) and we are figuring how we have ended up stuck in town, with no car and no way home to Lincoln! How did we get here?<br />
<br />
A few hours previously we had realised that a key piece of our kit was missing, and after a careful search we figured it must be in our storage unit in Hoon Hay. Obstacle One was that we had given our car away to it's new home . Obstacle Two was our flatmate was out, in his car. Obstacle Three - our bikes are already boxed, otherwise we could jump on them!<br />
<br />
In the spirit of travel, an ambitious plan was hatched to get to the garage to retrieve said piece of kit! We wrangled a ride with Ben into town (who was on his way to the West Coast), collected our keys from the neighbour, opened the storage unit, found it within minutes and then set about getting back to Lincoln. The options were a $50 taxi or a few hours walking but after a quick google search we were off running through the streets to catch the last bus that would get us back to Lincoln. Andy had to detour to a BP to get cash out - while I ran ahead and planned to hold the bus. Literally, Andy came running round the corner as the bus pulled up! $10 bucks later, a bus transfer, 40mins and we were home in Lincoln! Go on the old public transport system!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everything is stored!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packing up the panniers at Ben's in Lincoln. </td></tr>
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<br />
We then headed north to Grahams Beach near Manakau Heads in Auckland to celebrate the wedding of one of Andy's cousins. This has been a lovely time camping, walking on the beach, hanging out with Nana, relaxing and enjoying good food and dancing - the last on NZ soil for some time!<br />
<br />
Todays has been a mixture of last minute jobs, naming things, reinforcing bike boxes and enjoying our last coffee and hanging out with Andy's parents. We've just found out our first flight has been delayed which means we miss our connecting flight so we are now dreaming up adventures of things to do in Dubai for a day while we wait! <br />
<br />
The anticipation and excitement, along with nervousness are all mounting - especially as every person we meet tells us of their best travelling tips for ensuring we don't get ripped off and all our stuff stolen. Between that and all the diseases we can catch I'm looking forward to just getting into it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeRteFNjl0-Eq-l_z3XeYBiNodkDv1B2nN2XJNE3FUjwI2n1HbvAnqoqSfb9njFciSzzBnw6WNnnTLNxDFVuD10ETpxBh-2bCBnujlYanL5LoqOsVXCeOJ1VMbzb7jDDb9MJsI-kYn-Ji/s1600/DSCF2573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeRteFNjl0-Eq-l_z3XeYBiNodkDv1B2nN2XJNE3FUjwI2n1HbvAnqoqSfb9njFciSzzBnw6WNnnTLNxDFVuD10ETpxBh-2bCBnujlYanL5LoqOsVXCeOJ1VMbzb7jDDb9MJsI-kYn-Ji/s400/DSCF2573.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach wedding! Lovely to spend some time at a new beach </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfnauFrVasPZPBb0BZkA7zhnBeFe0PKthAhXbXXjU70rDz8k-JjOBh93-sKEe18OgPWNnkclnj2-sP2KEhVnQPt6RpUSvFIXsjJz51zfTkA-kzpvZNOWRxzLcUzqS-BoYUZ5v9f0Fzdb6/s1600/IMG_8174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfnauFrVasPZPBb0BZkA7zhnBeFe0PKthAhXbXXjU70rDz8k-JjOBh93-sKEe18OgPWNnkclnj2-sP2KEhVnQPt6RpUSvFIXsjJz51zfTkA-kzpvZNOWRxzLcUzqS-BoYUZ5v9f0Fzdb6/s200/IMG_8174.JPG" width="200" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMiJl4gr1S0eweUhvwPPwxVXX3neURZdEOk0LYqurJfe8nlSBmpCK1TgQHHaEiV-D5mWqWjb_ofEiVge98Fe902aHU9ceo2cfoS_GK4sGMQCgf3ZZA9sqWKKNsuZDod3iabr0E0LE9ExV/s1600/IMG_8176%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMiJl4gr1S0eweUhvwPPwxVXX3neURZdEOk0LYqurJfe8nlSBmpCK1TgQHHaEiV-D5mWqWjb_ofEiVge98Fe902aHU9ceo2cfoS_GK4sGMQCgf3ZZA9sqWKKNsuZDod3iabr0E0LE9ExV/s200/IMG_8176%255B1%255D.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this is what it boils down to for six months: Two duffel bags filled with our four panniers, two bike boxes and two handle-bar bags (P.S... We were both to exhausted and grumpy to smile without lot's of persuasion)</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-950681694201409878.post-57407191321827675682016-02-02T12:30:00.002-08:002016-11-23T02:51:00.608-08:00One week to go!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div>
One
of the first things Andy and I did together in Christchurch three years ago happened
to be a “Global Exposure” course which aimed to wrestle with and discuss some
of the issues of global inequality, theology and our relationship to
others overseas.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">This has been something we are both
pretty passionate about and it fuelled both our interest in experiencing more
of other cultures and places to help grow our understanding of the world and
how it works. Over time, a plan has developed and it is pretty exciting to be
setting out shortly on our big trip!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">It’s a tricky thing to balance your
travel ideals with practicalities and logistics which has meant there has been
some compromise in being able to meet all the ideals of responsible, ethical
and constructive/empowering world travel. But, hopefully as we go we are able
to travel well, and share little bits of life we people we meet along the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOI2Z8oz9QKYFqjBuCeFw7OqCu939z3yDtOw82erAdePYbO5hb0Stz-JUO1FnYB3l13U9kOmCbif4zhpm6pM05y0VYLRv1FZYgWHLc0-kfs-ZFZ8Po8gjI9bxIl-qVvKHl6YNHZerKCjSe/s1600/20160212_083635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOI2Z8oz9QKYFqjBuCeFw7OqCu939z3yDtOw82erAdePYbO5hb0Stz-JUO1FnYB3l13U9kOmCbif4zhpm6pM05y0VYLRv1FZYgWHLc0-kfs-ZFZ8Po8gjI9bxIl-qVvKHl6YNHZerKCjSe/s320/20160212_083635.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shakedown tour to Davauchille's Bay in Akaroa Habour</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>BUT WHY ARE YOU GOING ON A
BIKE????!!!! <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<o:p><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"> </span></o:p>It seems to fit! I’ve done a bit of
cycle touring before and loved it – the independence of it, being able to stay
in small villages that regular tourists pass through, meeting children along
the way as they honk your horn and adults who seem amazed by the maps we carry.
It’s a cool way to travel! It also hits some of our other things we are
passionate about like <i>simplicity, low impact and mingling and mixing with
locals along the way!</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>THE VISION</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Despite having done a bit before – we still are not exactly sure of what to expect. But some things we hope to ponder/discover/experience might be - </span><br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">To learn from the people/communities and cultures we are with and experience life and friendship in these places</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">To discover how different communities experience and express their understanding of the world</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">To contribute meaningfully where we are (hopefully surveying and teaching can be a part of this)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">To think about how our lives here in NZ affect others around the world</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">To cope with the physical, emotional and environmental challenges we come across</span></li>
</ul>
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<b>BLOG INSPIRATION</b><br />
I introduced Andy to this song by Midge
Marsden (A NZ artist) a few weeks ago and we thought is was fitting as a bit of a theme song
for the year - well worth a listen if you don't know it! Check it out here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab9Zzy8zngY">Travellin On</a></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">We're travellin' on, We're travellin'
on<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Each town we met, is our happy home,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Well if we aren't here, then we must
be gone,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Travelling On<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">We've been North, South , East and
West,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Most places in between,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Well I think we could, I know we
could,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">write a book on where we've been<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Cos we don't know where we're going,
but we do know where we've been<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Travellin On, Travelling On.....<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDp_mnjPsPt5wBXBD7EhZPTynmKNSnS42swjens2PEY36gz8YwHPSM48GsJG62SyWWpSmgnun0BaJtVE3pVMox1N06g468TTAdvxMVpqN1-peWb5S5ozHxeQtNvFFwJ0rrEhop6pPlTPB_/s1600/IMG_0357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDp_mnjPsPt5wBXBD7EhZPTynmKNSnS42swjens2PEY36gz8YwHPSM48GsJG62SyWWpSmgnun0BaJtVE3pVMox1N06g468TTAdvxMVpqN1-peWb5S5ozHxeQtNvFFwJ0rrEhop6pPlTPB_/s320/IMG_0357.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying wild pears along the Little River rail trail on the way home.</td></tr>
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<o:p><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Phew – that ended up long, well done if you are still reading. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Feel free to
add your <i>email address</i> to the bar at the top to get further blog updates
delivered to your inbox. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Arohanui,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Miri (& Andy)</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16043561734780363434noreply@blogger.com2